Forum Replies Created
March 7, 2016 at 8:00 am #62490
That nipple on the E-RAVE solenoid isn’t supposed to have a vent tube on it. So the tube doesn’t go there. Its hard to help without knowing where that clear vent tube is coming from. But if its from the oil cap, then its just an overflow vent and should vent into a small external container.
On a side note, you seem to have the E-RAVE solenoid mounted directly to the bracket and that can cause an issue with the RAVE valve shutting prematurely due to vibration. ROTAX now recommends that the solenoid be mounted using a rubber isolator to help with vibration affecting performance.
December 12, 2015 at 5:50 pm #58011
I second Rapid Prep and Rapid Tac. I used both and my decals turn out great. Rapid Prep is also an exceptional plastics cleaner that I use on my bodywork regularly.
September 8, 2015 at 4:39 pm #54013
79T will hit 13k quicker. 66T will yield a higher top speed.
September 8, 2015 at 1:09 pm #53990
BINGO! Isolate that E-RAVE and you should be good to go.
I agree the design is lacking. I think I will purchase a 2nd isolation mount so I can use two on the E-RAVE like Blake is doing. Its clear the solenoid was designed to hard mount with two screws and using a single iso just seems asking for a tab failure down the road. And that’s been the problem the whole time with this EVO update. Its poor engineering making up for prior poor engineering. I admit the engine runs like a scalded dog now. I’m thoroughly impressed with its performance. But you’d think they’d have designed this stuff right the first time to deal with the vibrations. And having the need to iso the solenoid should ultimately cause a redesign of the solenoid housing to better fit the new mounting method.
September 3, 2015 at 10:49 am #53820
I’ve been to the track three times over the past week and I have to say the EVO updated Rotax is awesome. Still running the old 2004 motor updated to EVO and the performance difference is night and day. I know they say the EVO kit doesn’t present a performance increase, but my 04 engine is a BEAST now. Real usable power from 7,000 rpm on. I’ve been dropping gears sizes and the motor just keeps pulling off the hairpin and the top speed gets faster.
I’m really blown away by just how good my 04 motor is now. Its significantly stronger than its ever been and requires a very different approach to driving the course. It used to be I eased into the throttle to prevent the engine from bogging. Now I ease into the throttle to prevent the rear wheels from spinning.
August 31, 2015 at 9:55 am #53631
Yes. Every electronic box should attach to the bracket with a rubber isolator. The E-RAVE solenoid only uses one rubber isolator as opposed to two. All wire looms should be folded back and secured to their respective box with a zip-tie to remove strain from the connector.
August 26, 2015 at 1:36 pm #53442
@Ambrose – also be sure you have the isolated spacer between the black EVO mounting bracket and the E-RAVE solenoid. Without the isolator, the motor vibrations will override the solenoid and close the power valve around 12,000 rpm.
August 26, 2015 at 1:26 pm #53441
Yes, that’s how I’m running currently and the motors are running very well. What you’ve explained here re: vacuum/pressure makes sense. Rotax would do well to explain things like that in the upgrade kit. When I run into conflicting diagrams without any detailed explanation, its hard to know which one to follow and why.
August 23, 2015 at 4:49 pm #53282
So good news today! I got back to the track and applied everything I researched and it payed off! So a big thanks to John Kwong and the Calgary Kart Club for the above link.
The EVO kit ran strong – excellent, snappy, acceleration off the hairpin at GoPro Motorplex. I had to dampen the E-RAVE solenoid even more to get the vibrations from shutting the RAVE valve and that fixed the 12,000 rpm limit. The motor was simply the best Rotax I’ve ever driven today. The track was crap – morning rain and lots of rental kart rubber making the grip low – so the laptimes were off by a few seconds. But still the powerband improvements of the Rotax EVO was obvious.
And to put this into perspective: I have two engines. My main motor is a freshly sealed 2011 with an 09 head. And the other (my practice engine) is an unsealed 2004 that honestly is long in the tooth (probably pushing 40-hours). Well today I was using the 04 motor and it was a beast. Easily the best performance this motor has provided in the entire 5-years I’ve owned it. And more than that, it was the best Rotax experience I’ve had. The performance today once I hit the tuning was simply awesome. Can’t wait to try the 2011 race engine!
So there you have it. I have to say the end result is very good. The EVO upgrade was worth it. I still think some of the engineering is a bit dodgy – like Rotax keeps adding parts to make the old dog work better. But there’s no denying that in EVO form, the Rotax is the best its ever been.
So now I’ll keep an eye out for what happens in 2016 once this whole EVO changeover is complete. I hope Rotax can get everything back on track and rebuild its numbers.
August 22, 2015 at 9:36 am #53193
So I located the above graphic that appears to be the most recent. It clearly shows the E-RAVE pulse line connects to the lower (metal) nipple now (which is completely opposite from every official EVO launch video and diagram). Anyways, the lower connection is the one I’m sticking with until I hear or see otherwise.
August 22, 2015 at 9:32 am #53192
August 22, 2015 at 7:40 am #53180
I really like the OMP KS-4 suit. Its affordable and lightweight (Level 1).
But recently I thought I’d give an OMP Summer-K suit a try. Its not CIK rated, so you can’t race in it. But it’s essentially a single-layer cotton overall, styled like OMP’s kart suits. I use it for practice days (non-official) when its just me at the track. It fits over your street clothes and is very comfortable on hot days. Best thing is I take it home and throw it in the washer and dryer with the rest of my clothes and its good to go.
That said, its safety value is about the same as jeans and a denim long-sleeve shirt. So keep that in mind.
August 21, 2015 at 6:52 pm #53167
So I thought I’d add an update on my EVO experience thus far. I’ve gotten to the track about three times and I’ve yet to really get my engines performing better than the non-Evo engines did. I’m hitting that 12,000 rpm ceiling (which at GoPro Motorplex is a lap killer). I’ve been progressively leaning out the jet and today I was down to 118, which is a little scary as its uncharted territory for me. Still no top end however.
Another thing I came across today was conflicting information regarding the pulse line feeding the RAVE valve solenoid (See this thread: http://ekartingnews.com/forums/topic/evo-pulse-line-to-rave-solenoid-which-one-is-it/). I find it hard to believe Rotax isn’t proofing this stuff, or making some in-depth explanations of what mechanically is going on. Again, it seems as if the kits are just thrown together from parts initially designed for something else and re-purposed to work on the Rotax engine.
Another example is this little pill added to the pulse line. It states the pill reduces pressure and makes the RAVE valve open .5 sec later than normal. Really? So all this talk and power curve diagrams about the RAVE valve must open at 7600 is BS?? I mean .5 secs later could be as much as 9000-10,000 rpm. This just reads like really poor engineering IMHO. It should open at 7600, unless you want it to open at 7900 (remove the ground??). Or, place this pill in the line and it will open half a second later that either of those specs. The power valve is the Achilles heel of this engine. The EVO update was supposed to address this. Now, I’m starting the get the feeling even Rotax doesn’t understand how the thing works.
Okay, okay… I’m venting a little. I really wanted to be blown away by the EVO updates and I’m a little disappointed that I’m still changing main jets all day and trying to get the engines to run well.
On a positive note, when I hooked the RAVE pulse line up to the metal nipple on the bottom of the solenoid, the low-end power increased significantly. I’m talking better than any of my Senior Rotax have ever run. But with the lack of top end, I get the feeling all I did was convert my engine to a well-tuned Junior. LOL! But I definitely heard the RAVE valve open and the engine start to growl at close to 8000 rpm. So I don’t know. Is that the way it supposed to be hooked up? Which diagram is correct?? If I could get bottom end power like that and get this thing to pull to 13,500 rpm, I think I’d start singing the EVO praises. I’m just not sure what to try next to accomplish that and that has always been the frustrating part of running a Rotax.
August 12, 2015 at 5:47 am #52739
No way you can leave it bare. You’ll only add more work sanding or sandblasting the impurities off the metal before you finally have to powder coat/paint it.
And paint can’t hold up against the environment in a garage. You’ll be touching it up constantly.
April 21, 2015 at 4:59 am #46462
I placed my order back in February (one junior and three seniors). I didn’t hear anything from MaxSpeed until one of the kits was ready to ship last week. Just as they said, they contacted me for my payment info.
While on the phone, I asked about the process. Its a matter of first come – first served based on two things: the current supply of kits and making sure everyone gets one kit before those with more than one motor gets their full request filled. So when inquiring about my three senior kits, I was told they’d be getting more seniors in this week and I would get one of those. I then asked if they would eventually fulfill my entire order for the remaining two kits and was told yes.
So I don’t believe there’s any reason for panic over the EVO update kits. They just have a lot of people requesting them and have to wait for kits from Rotax. Remember this is a big update and its worldwide. Its going to take some time.
April 16, 2015 at 12:26 pm #46193
Just a heads up: I just had MaxSpeed fulfill my Junior EVO kit today and was told some more senior kits should go out in the next couple of weeks.
April 7, 2015 at 8:58 am #45628
Oooh.. starting fluid. Good tip!
April 7, 2015 at 8:55 am #45625
Darren, I run CRG’s and I prefer the feel and longevity of the Ferodo Kart Attack pads to the OEM. Note: I’m using steel (not ceramic) disks.
March 29, 2015 at 8:33 am #45009
If the bottle is a round unmarked container about 7″ tall its Rotax gear oil. Rotax 2-stroke oil comes in a fancy yellow container (or black if its an older variety). But the 2-stroke oil should have a label branding it Rotax.
If your mystery oil container doesn’t match either of these discrptions I’d refrain from using it.
February 20, 2015 at 5:07 am #42666
Hopping I find usually describes a hopping in the rear brought on by excessive rear grip followed by a quick release of grip and then the tire re-gripping. This causes the kart to hop as the inside rear lifts and sets down repeatly during a corner. Its fairly excessive and easily felt from the seat. Hopping can be a handling/tuning issue, or can be brought about by over driving the kart in a corner. Tuning-wise, its usually brought about by too narrow of a rear width, center of gravity to high, or rear axle too stiff.
Push-Kick is a severe handling issue where the kart experiences push going into a corner followed by an immediate loose condition when transitioning from brake to throttle. Its usually indicative of a balance issue (too much weight to the rear) or an overall lack of mechanical grip.
January 8, 2015 at 5:32 pm #40113
Maybe too late since you have the Haas frame, but I were building a backyard dirt oval I’d look into 1/4 midgets.
January 6, 2015 at 2:28 pm #39988
Devil’s advocate, ok: By running SKUSA class and rules, they’ve just doubled the number of national-level shifter events in the US. Plus they’ve made use of what is already the biggest kart race in the US to expand and give karters more bang for the buck in Vegas. I’m sure most national teams appreciate being able to pack-up and go to Vegas and now have two world-class events plus an expo in one trip.
I understand the immediate concern. MAXSpeed is Rotax in the US and this is the first time they’ve expanded beyond Rotax Max classes at an event. But If I were running the SKUSA Pro Tour, I’d be pretty excited by this news for expanding my season and investment while at the same time still supporting SKUSA and their full season.
Also, it does seem funny that we have one thread complaining about manufacturers and promoters doing their own thing when it comes to rules packages (State of Karting in USA), followed by foul calls in this thread when someone adopts the same rules towards two separate organisations. I hope that irony isn’t lost on others. ;-)
Lastly, (and this is kinda completely off-topic), I’ve never understood why any organisation hasn’t carved up the US into regions and divisions. Then allow things to take root locally – regionally – and finally holding division championships funneling up into a single National championship race. Seems MAXSpeed has the ability to do this. But instead has what is essentially four or five random and disconnected racing series running over the course of a season. Note I’m not criticizing the current MAXSpeed commitment, just recognizing that no one has managed to bring the county together under one banner/championship in a most efficient way.
January 3, 2015 at 4:01 pm #39836
Matt, keep in mind you should let the stop watch be the final indicator as to gearing. But a Rotax senior should easily rev to over 13,000 rpm. A well sorted senior should be capable of revving to close to 14,000. Although that might not be necessary depending on the track.
January 3, 2015 at 3:44 pm #39835
CRG 2000-up rear calipers are the same as VEN05 front brake calipers. So they do share the same pad design. But be aware that the VEN05 rear calipers (and thus pads) are very different from the 2000-up.
I have two CRG karts with 2000-up rear braking systems and I prefer the Ferodo Kart Attack pads – for feel, longevity and price. FWIW.
Replacement is really simple. Remove the pad retaining clip and bolt, and pull the old pads out. Press the pistons all the way back inside the caliper, and insert the new pads. I find removing the master cylinder cover(s) helps the pistons to retract easier. As long as nothing leaks and the system is working well you’ll be fine. I’d inspect the brake fluid at the time and flush the system if its dirty, or top it off if its low (after replacing the pads so that the pistons are reset).
Remember t0 replace the master cylinder covers before you pressurize the system with the pedal. If you leave the covers off, the fluid will shoot out of the top.
December 29, 2014 at 8:29 am #39533
And the test data begins. This is encouraging. Good post Larry. Thanks.
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