Forum Replies Created
March 15, 2018 at 9:01 am #92113
I sent you an email the other day
Can you please send me some pictures of all that stuff, please?
March 8, 2018 at 8:22 am #91868
Well, using the logic
It wasn’t binding before the wreck
You hit the barriers and they moved 15 to 20 feet ( that’s a good impact )
I have kissed/brushed barriers in the past and bent a bunch of crap
If you said that the king pin bolts are good, and it was already doing this with the old king pins, but you only replaced them to be safe, then there’s no need to check for over tightened king pin nuts ( although I would ) It’s always a good idea to loosen up king pin bolts and re tighten them again, but very important not to over tighten or else you’ll choke it and will make it hard to steer, plus will develop premature wear of spindle bearings.
Also another thing to consider, when you set it down on the ground and trying to steer, now you are pushing and pulling on whatever cracks or bends there could be on the frame, think of it as the wheels are trying to separate from side to side as you try to steer. So if you have that much confidence in what you see to the naked eye, and people’s advise may not be good enough to what already looks obvious to you, then it may be a good time to send it in to a shop and let the professionals deal with it.
Here in Central Cali, and Southern Cali we have plenty of people who can do frame work, not to mention, they do bring their awesome set up to every race.
Good luck to you.
March 7, 2018 at 10:20 pm #91854
Dan, there is a big possibility you may have installed the spindle/king pin spacers backwards, or upside down, also big chance you may have accidentally installed your caster pills wrong, giving the chassis too much positive caster, or your steering shaft installed wrong at the inner tie rod ends, from the wrong setting holes.
It is very important to double check how it used to be before
I hope you snipped your camber and tow?
Otherwise you may have a bent chassis, I would send it to a table for adjustments and to make sure it’s straight, but check all that other stuff I mentioned first. Any chance you can post pictures?
March 3, 2018 at 6:24 pm #91737
The green one is just a vent hose, that’s why it goes to the overflow bottle (catch can)
The clear white one goes to the engine.
Make sure to disconnect the green one from the catch can, and blow through it, disconnect the one at the engine (carburetor feed ) till it bleeds out, so that you remove air pockets, let it drip for a bit, then hook it back up.
This is very important to do before you start the engine, and you may have to do that though out your race heats or practice sessions, or when you notice air pockets on the fuel line.
February 25, 2018 at 8:39 pm #91547
February 25, 2018 at 7:11 pm #91543
February 25, 2018 at 5:40 pm #91540
Matthew, welcome to the sport
Looks like you are interested in running dirt tracks. You could run these thing on dirt, and they could be lots of fun, unfortunately they were designed for smaller European drivers. Fitting a bigger guy will be a challenge, as big seats are really difficult to install in a chassis, there is hope though.
Try to find a good used complete set up that already has an XXL seat on it, a 2001 Honda CR125 should be able to thrill you, but if not, a good TM ICC engine package will work very well. I wouldn’t run with the shifter kart guys, as you won’t be competitive, they are just way too fast, but you already mentioned you will only want it for fun, and for dirt tracks so no worries.
Look at your local tracks and clubs, kart shops and see if anybody has one available, also check your local CL, plus here in this forum there are plenty of them for sale at the classifieds all the time.
Please don’t be offended, but may be a good idea if you’re planning to shed some weight it will really help you, heck we all have the same issue here.
Anyhow, I hope this helps steering you in the right direction. Good luck.
February 25, 2018 at 5:23 pm #91539
February 24, 2018 at 5:26 pm #91506
February 23, 2018 at 9:50 pm #91485
Sorry, Tom. I’ve been so busy that I never had a chance to look here all day, plus I’m setting up for a race this weekend.
I have full rollers, no bare frames, I currently have 2 complete karts set up for LO206, but I don’t have an issue removing the engines and making them full rollers for you, I just sold one, and now I only have 2 left.
Please send me yous email address and I can email you some pictures. Thank you. I am located in Bakersfield Ca. Shipping is no big deal for me.
February 22, 2018 at 9:36 pm #91468
I do have OTK Tony Karts, been using them on the Yamaha class, LO206 class as well.
We do love them, they are super easy to tune, very fast out of the box, you can actually win races just by setting them up neutral.
Compared to your old Emik Tony karts are so much easier to drive, with a lot less effort to steer.
I do have 2 available older chassis if interested, they are extremely competitive still, my Son is not racing any more, and we don’t need 7 karts laying around the shop collecting dust. I have to get rid of all of our LO206 karts, and Yamaha karts.
2014 Green Tony Kart EVK chassis
2014 OTK Fernando Alonso Kart
Let me know if this would work for you
- This reply was modified 2 months ago by FREDDY SANDOVAL.
February 21, 2018 at 9:52 am #91417
February 20, 2018 at 1:42 pm #91390
Thank you guys!
February 17, 2018 at 8:40 pm #91285
How much is registration at Laguna Seca this year?
February 17, 2018 at 6:12 pm #91281
February 13, 2018 at 1:48 pm #91191
February 12, 2018 at 11:15 am #91136
February 10, 2018 at 7:06 pm #91109
February 8, 2018 at 11:39 am #91046
February 8, 2018 at 10:53 am #91043
I agree with TJ Koyen
The X30 is very strong and reliable, and you can still get great deals out there, many other older TAG packages may look attractive and cheap, but will cost you more in the long run.
Honestly the new KA100 will blow your mind versus the KT100, will last longer, will feel more powerful and more fun. You can still get some smoken deals out there, and does not need to be blue printed, just bolt on and go, and it will be fast out of the box, will probably compete with and older stock TAG 125 motor, or be pretty close to it.
I would buy either an X30 or KA100 period.
Or if you’re on a budget and just wanna have fun, you can just buy an LO206 and it would be pretty close to a KT100 with an can. Except no rebuild costs at all.
- This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by FREDDY SANDOVAL.
February 7, 2018 at 11:21 pm #91002
where did you set up your toe at?
How much caster do you have?
What air pressures are you running?
Do you have enough weight at the front of the kart?
What tires are you running?
Is this track smooth, or rough?
And does it do the same thing at any track? Or all tracks?
I’m assuming your seat position is correct, and your weight distribution too.
February 7, 2018 at 11:09 am #90979
February 6, 2018 at 8:31 pm #90939
February 3, 2018 at 7:52 pm #90840
You PMed me stating you sent me a text last night
Sorry, we were racing for Skusa today, just came back home, checked my phone, and there aren’t any texts from you, please try again, or PM me with your cell phone number, Thanks, Freddy.
February 2, 2018 at 6:42 pm #90819
Bill, welcome to karting.
I have 3 complete nice karts ready to race, unless you’ve already bought an engine for your future chassis, then I can sell you just the rolling chassis.
I have 3 to choose from.
Text me, or call me. (858) 717-2191 Freddy
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