[Dai Feng]

can bring to CalSpeed tomorrow, Sat, Dec 28.

[Dai Feng]

Thanks Gary, but I found one already…

[Dai Feng]

bump

[Dai Feng]

Bought an AMB 160, transponder no longer needed…

[Dai Feng]

Thanks Chuck, no worries, I am still looking for a complete set with charger.  Dai.

[Dai Feng]

Bump.  Still like to buy…

[Dai Feng]

Thanks Dan, but I already brought one.

[Dai Feng]

I ended up getting the  K&N filter oil.  Upon spraying the filter, while trying to wipe off the excess, I just noticed imprinted the rubber end cap of the filter gigantic lettering “Green Filter”.  Oh well.  I wish B&S printed that on the package.

So for anyone who wants to know, the recommended oil would have been this: https://www.greenfilterusa.com/store/2000.  But I am going to just keeping using the K&N.

[Dai Feng]

Yes, all my questions were for “per side”.

Also others who may be interested in knowing, I found out from Sniper that 1mm of camber means the wheel at its diameter, in this case the front wheel of 10 inch diameter, moved 1mm due to the camber adjustment.  So 1mm =   0.45 degrees, either camber or caster.

[Dai Feng]

William Martin wrote:

To the best of my eyeball & calliper accuracy, it looks like 6mm. This being the old/original model Sniper unit, doubt if the grid has changed with newer units.

Thanks William, indeed, I doubt it would change, otherwise, people using different versions will all get confused:-)

Could you also confirm that each of the grid is referred as 1 mm of camber or chaster change?

With this info and some trig, I should be able to figure out how to set the sniper camber adjuster on my new chassis:-)

[Dai Feng]

In light of the discussion in the last couple of posts,  I will ask my question differently.

For those who have a sniper, could you measure the actual distance between the reticle lines on the scale for reading camber/caster?

TIA

[Dai Feng]

FREDDY SANDOVAL wrote:

Translation is very simple to achieve, all you have to do is google and type in a conversion table or calculator on how to convert MM to inches, degrees or fractions. .

Thanks for the reply, but let me clarify my question.  When one talks about camber in degrees, it is unambiguous what it means.  You measure the angle of the wheel with respect to the vertical, assume the vehicle is set on a level ground.  But when you measure it with the sniper, you read the distance the laser dot move on the opposing scale surface corresponding to the camber angle change.  That measurement is a length in mm.  But that measurement is depended on the distance between the two sniper block.  So if you change the camber angle by _a_ degrees and the distance between the snipers are _R_, then the camber change read by the sniper in mm is:

K*(2*pi*a/360)*R

for small angle (here we are just talking about a couple of degrees so no need to worry about sin or tan).

Here _K_ is 1 if the scaling on the sniper is actual mm.

Since different model of karts have different distance between the king pins and the sniper can be attached to the spindle at slight different locations, _R_ can be different.

I am getting a brand new chassis, so it better be straight.  And I will doing a bunch of testing before racing it so don’t expect it to get bend any time soon.  This is to help me get the kart setup according to the factory standard setup, without a sniper.  I plan to get a sniper later once I start racing.

 

 

[Dai Feng]

Hi Derek,

I was looking for the manual version, which is compact enough to fit in my truck.

Does the electric version fold?  How much does it weigh and dimension when folded?  Could you send pictures?

Could you reply to my email address above?

Thanks…

Dai

[Dai Feng]

Hi Chuck, PM sent. Dai.

[Dai Feng]

Hi Freddy,

Thanks for helping out.  I am good now with the info from William.  That oval kart front setup is pretty cool.  I have seen the second and third videos.  I think the camber adjusting basic video is going to confuse people than helping, since it doesn’t explain when you rotate the pills, you change both the camber and caster and that it takes two pills to make independent camber adjustments.

Happy karting…

[Dai Feng]

Rob Kozakowski wrote:

One correction to Aaron’s post – it’s not a certified engine builder who builds and seals the LO206 – it’s the Briggs factory that does it, and does it only once before the engine goes out the door. There’s no “re-sealing”.  

What if the engine needs a rebuilt?  Would it have to go back to factory?

[Author]

Posts