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    • #104703
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Hi Todd, unfortunately we won’t be going back to VIR anytime soon.  We were told in no uncertain terms, other events were a better “fit” then we were…so we’re out.

    • #104642
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Get a hold of AIM Technologies, I believe they have an office in Roanoke.  I’m sure they’ll know what will work with what.

      Clark.

    • #104587
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Hey Todd.  Pull the head and measure the bore, same with stroke.  A cheaper vernier should work fine.  You’re an educator so the math is pretty straight forward.

      Get a hold of one of the Tag engine folks and describe what you’ve got.  I’m sure one of them can get you started.  I’d try Paul Kennedy in Alexandria.  703-780-3224  Obviously don’t forget to through a carb kit in it too.  All the carb info should be right on it.  Having the carb bore size and number might help ID it.

      Good luck.

      Clark Sr.

       

    • #103771
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      I’d suggest going to your local track and see for yourself.  I personally wouldn’t spend a lot of time or money mounting the PRD.

      My preference would be the IAME X30, but something else may be more popular and supported at your track. (Like the Vortex, Rotax, etc.) Knowledge, parts, local engine builder…you’re going to need them all.

      Of course you always have the option of running what you’ve got to start, then take it from there once you’re back into it.

      Either way, welcome back and have fun.

      Clark Gaynor Sr.

    • #98916
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Just give the Race Director a heads up at the “drivers meeting”.  He’ll likely give competitors in your race group a heads up to allow you to go to the front of the scale line after your race.   Also have someone willing to stay in post race tech with your kart if you finish in the top five.

      You can also help by having someone get your second kart to the grid, in position, ready to go.  So all you have to do is hop in and go.

      It will work, you’ll just be a bit busy!!

      Have fun,

      Clark Gaynor Sr.

    • #97358
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      No they’re not fast Todd, but they are easy to maintain, easy to drive, inexpensive, don’t eat motors or tires.  AND, the racing is nuts!!

      Here’s a video from this years WKA National at Summit Point Main.  Last season we had 2 CIK LO206 Sprints running at WKC.  My Son and I.  This year we have 11 to 14 at each event.  And at least 4 more are being put together.  Perfect for your Son AND you!  Maybe your Dad?

      Get in touch and I’ll give the whole story

      Take care,

      Clark.

      cggaynor@verizon.net

      610-326-8284

    • #97354
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      219 is just a higher quality chain in general.  Also the X30 makes about 32 HP which doesn’t help.  We also road race 206’s, where we use good quality 35 chain.  It never gets hot or requires more then a tiny bit of lub…unlike the X30!!!

    • #97331
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      We road race, so everything has to go 30 minutes between lubs.  O-ring chains seem to live through that better.  No other reason.

    • #96902
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Bob, it does appear you’d have issues with the seat tube.  It appears to angle back and connect to the inner frame rail almost where the front of the third bearing hanger is welded on.  That would limit the size of the rear sprocket you could use.  We run anywhere from a 56-62 tooth gears, and I doubt you could get a 56 or 57 in there.  If you know somebody with some 35 gears, see what might fit without hitting the seat tube.  It does appear you have enough room for the chain to run between the right side set support and the third rail.  But that would be pretty close too.

      To make the chassis work by moving the seat tube forward might not be worth the risk of totally screwing up the chassis.

      I might suggest taking it to an event where there are some 206’s running and see what might fit, where.

      Sorry I couldn’t be more help.  You might try asking on Bob’s 4 Cycle Forum, there’s a bunch of folks there with more experience then me.

      Good luck,

      Clark Sr.

    • #96800
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      You only need room between the right side seat support and the third bearing support for the chain to run through.  Assuming the seat tube, the one running from frame rail to frame rail, doesn’t angle back too much.

      Send a photo of the right rear of the kart, looking forward.

      206’s will fit nicely on just about any kart.  Worst case, cut the right side seat support off and use a bolt one.  That’s how Margay does their Ignites.  It works fine.

      Clark.

    • #96544
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      We road race that exact combo.  The kart is a 2012.  It worked great with a Stock Honda and now works equally as well with the X30.  We removed the front brakes as well.

      Good kart.

      Clark Gaynor Sr.

    • #96543
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      We road race an X30, so durability is number one.

      We use “Extron Composite” sprockets.  Or Horstmans or whatever if we don’t have the “plastic” ones.  They wear well and don’t seem to get hot.  Also “RK Blue O-Ring” chain.  Same deal, holds the lub. really well.  Again with road racing, the chain lub has to last a 30 minute race.  So we use “Xeramic Ceramic Synthetic Chain Spray”.  After 30 minutes it’s still nice and wet.

      I suppose whatever is the best stuff you can get.  We clean the chains and sprockets each day of an event with WD40 and a rag, then re-lub.  Messy, but it works for us.

      Clark Gaynor Sr.

    • #96127
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Just a reminder to all LO206 and Clone competitors heading to VIR.  The gasoline to be used is unleaded Sunoco Ultra 93, which is available in the paddock pumps at VIR.

      Hope to see you in a couple weeks.  Safe travels,

      Clark Gaynor Sr.

    • #95903
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Travis, the 4.5 is the width of the tire, 10 is a rough outside diameter, and 5 is the wheel size in inches.

      I’d suggest running whatever tires the other competitors run at whatever track you intend to race at.  Otherwise it doesn’t really matter.

      If you want to deal with Fastech, which is a good company by the way,give them a call and ask questions.  They will be more then helpful.

      Have fun,

      Clark Gaynor Sr.

    • #95468
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      I’m no expert but that really looks like detonation.  Exhaust side of piston missing, more damage on edges, etc.  Too much ignition advance, low octane fuel, too lean, ?  I don’t think anything ran through it, like a piece of metal.

      There are folks on here who will know for sure.

      Good luck,

      Clark Sr.

    • #94414
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      A bad handling kart would still be a great handling car.

      When it rains you get really wet.

      Hitting a squirrel or ground hog in a kart is really bad!

      No matter how bad you bend it up, a buddy and you can still pick it up and put it in the trailer.

    • #92100
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      I suppose you could go to an auto parts store, but it’s very unlikely they’ll have what you need.

      We use NGK BR10EIX or NGK 105 plugs.

      Comet, Fast Tech, TS or many others will have them in stock, and you’ll have them in a few days depending on where you live.

      Just get on the phone and call any of them.

      Clark Sr.

       

       

    • #91849
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Yep, it appears to be the same, including a 16T driver.

      Clark Sr.

    • #91836
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      May I ask what is the largest driver available?  On the X30 it’s a 16T.  Is the clutch similar to the X30?  I’m asking from the road race perspective.  It would be nice to have a 100cc air cooled, push button start, low stall clutch engine on a CIK chassis for road racing.  Kind of a lower performance, high reliability, IAME Sprint set up.

      Thanks,

      Clark Sr.

    • #91828
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      At the Woodbridge Kart Club we attempt to direct folks to our most popular classes.  Currently that’s IAME Sprint, Stock Honda, Yamaha Sportsman, and Animal Sprint.  If a class doesn’t meet a certain number of entries, it gets no awards.  We still track points, but you get nothing for it.  No one seems to mind that at all, even those who show up at every event knowing they will get nothing for it…other the fun.  That also applies to year end awards.

      Eliminating classes is a tough one!  If you cut someones class, that may prove to be the last straw and they simply quit.  As all of you promoters know, tracks aren’t getting any less expensive!  I’m sure Laguna is pricey, as is VIR.  A club puts up $30, 40 or 50K before they even give you the keys to the front gate!  Then you cross your fingers and hope for the best!  So turning ANY folks away is risky.  I’ve always said, if three guys show up with lawn mowers, we’ll make a class for them.  3 entries at $100 ea, two days=$600!!  Plus pit passes.  No club can afford to turn that down!  Of course they won’t get trophies and they’ll be stuck in the back of a slower race group..only kidding of course, but you get the idea.

      Two many classes is a problem…kind of.  I’m not sure what the current WKA class count is (too lazy to check right now), but it’s not as bad as it seems.  Keep in mind IAME Sprint, Stock Honda, Unlimited, Animal Sprint, etc, etc all have a final #1 an #2.  Each has a race both Saturday and Sunday..#1 and #2.  They are not separate classes, just a race each days for each class.  So it’s not really 48 classes, it’s more like 24…still too many though.  The WKA NRRC has attempted to cut ALL classes down to one weight per class.  The only exception is Yamaha Sports Medium and Heavy.  All the rest have been combined into a single weight per class.

      Road racing is expensive compared to “club” level sprint racing.  As we all know, tracks are expensive, the logistics for a club holding an event is MUCH higher, all events tend to be two or three days, and there aren’t many locals who live 10 miles from the track.  So you add in motel, food, travel, fuel, dog in the kennel, etc, etc, costs and it sure adds up.

      This is a very good discussion, and maybe if we all put our heads together we can keep road racing alive.  Have a good one folks,

      Clark Gaynor Sr.

    • #91339
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Sorry, but I was assuming you run a CIK chassis.  If you’re running a sprint enduro setup, I have no clue.

      Clark Sr.

    • #91337
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      I’d likely go with Red’s or Bridgestone YLC’s..something just a little harder.  Your 206 just doesn’t need any more grip then a hard 7.10. We run BS YLC’s on both of our CIK 206’s.  They work fine, and will easily last a season.

      Yes, enduro’s do run in the rain, but most competitors won’t.  Usually it’s only folks who run CIK chassis classes race in the rain, like your CIK 206, Tag’s and shifters.  Whatever rain tires you currently have will do fine.  We have Bridgestone’s.

      Hope that helps.

      Clark Sr.

    • #90827
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Anthony, might be worth a call to Freddy.  I don’t know him personally, but he posts on these forums frequently, with a lot of helpful inputs.  I doubt you could go wrong.

      On another note, and since you’re from the East and interested in road racing, here’s a Youtube clip of Summit Point, Shenandoah Circuit from last Sept.  It’s the last few laps of the CIK 206 Sprint race, with my Son chasing me.  The WKC will be having our first event for 2018 on this track on April 21 and 22.

      Welcome to CIK 206.  You still have time before Roebling to get all your stuff together.

      Clark.

    • #90783
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      You still need to do some maintenance at home and at the track.  Get a rolling stand.  When you wheel the kart through the pits on hot tires, they will pick up EVERYTHING!!

      You do not NEED a gauge, but they do come in very handy.  Especially the Mychron 5.  Very user friendly with GPS.  Get the cheapest one they have, which will be about 500 I think.  Let Margay install it and be done with it.  But really for you first couple races, you don’t need one.  The folks at the track running the same class will help you out.  Ask what fuel the CIK 206’s are running when you get there.  Ask the racers.  Get what they say.

      Feel free to ask us questions.  Get some Briggs 4T oil, about 3 or 4 quarts.  Change oil each day.  Oil is cheap.  I get mine from Faster Motors, Jim Franz.  Knows his 206 stuff.  Check Fastermotors web site.

      Clark.

    • #90779
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      I just checked the Margay pre owned Ignites.  They have one left with one race on it.  Likely a Dayton kart, for 3495.

      Just sayen’

      Clark.

       

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