Forum Replies Created
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July 4, 2018 at 8:40 am #96119Larry HayashigawaParticipant
i have older tony kart suit. Are you still interested? will send pix if so.
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January 23, 2018 at 7:33 am #90448Larry HayashigawaParticipant
Single Engine Class: Single engines classes create the sense and for the most create parity, especially at the club racing level. In addition, the aftermarket for motors is significantly better for the new comer and helps retain motor value. With a handicapped multi-engine class, the aftermarket gets littered with motors that are not competitive making it difficult for the newby to decide what motor to buy.
Kart Racing Costs: I believe that the Challenge of the Americas Rok Engine series rented motors out for $1000 for the 3 weekend series and $500 per weekend (Sat-Sunday). Buy a used TonyKart chassis for $2500, which probably could be sold for $2000 after 3 weekends, so the net cost for the chassis is $500 for 3 weekends. Add in entry fee, fee tires and misc, which in round numbers would be $400/weekend. I think that comes up to $900/weekend. If you need a tuner/mechanic add another $200. That’s $1100 per weekend.
Larry
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May 19, 2016 at 4:19 pm #66204Larry HayashigawaParticipant
bump
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May 8, 2016 at 7:22 am #65533Larry HayashigawaParticipant
I have a MyChron 4 and use the speed sensor. If using the Split Time or Time Compare is important then the speed sensor is needed. I found that the GPS data for the M4 drifted too much, even when comparing data from the start and the end of the day. The speed sensor old data (months old) could be overlaid with new data without resorting to shifting the time.
Larry
Aim says that the M5 is much better, I don’t know, as I haven’t tried one yet.
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March 23, 2016 at 5:36 pm #63283Larry HayashigawaParticipant
I run Master so 50# is normal for me. I put 5# each under the front wings of the seat and a 10# curved diver’s weight in the middle of front of seat. I put a 5# on each side and the rest I place on the back of the seat. When I’m feeling anal, I put a 3/4″ washer between the seat and the weight, which keeps the contact to the seat down to a minimum. My thinking is that clamping the entire surface of the weight to the seat will stiffen it, especially with so many weights.
I’ve also removed two 5# from the rear of the seat and placed them on the left and right rear corners of the belly pan. (You do need to watch the F/R balance) This might be worth it because it lowers the polar moment of inertia and improves the responsive of the kart during turn in.
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March 4, 2016 at 6:19 pm #62413Larry HayashigawaParticipant
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March 4, 2016 at 6:03 pm #62410Larry HayashigawaParticipant
Did you check the floats? Are they in upside down? If the floats rattle inside the carb, they are in right side up.
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February 7, 2016 at 8:55 am #60719Larry HayashigawaParticipant
bump
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September 5, 2015 at 6:34 am #53870Larry HayashigawaParticipant
Racing is expensive; Looked up prices for a top of the line road racing bike, they range from $10K to $6K (MSRP), and they only go 25 MPH and don’t make any noise!
Larry H
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August 25, 2015 at 8:32 am #53367Larry HayashigawaParticipant
Carl,
If you are serious about collecting good usable data don’t buy the GPS and buy the e-Box, a bit more but you can find them used. The e-Box is more complicated to install and get operational but it’s worth it because the data is much more stable because the GPS data drifts too much. I’ve found that the GPS unit is only good for comparing in-session data and have found it to be in error of .25 seconds at least on one track. Because of this drift, the data between different days and even sessions has to be shifted by eye until it “lines” up but with the e-Box, there is no drift and I can compare data from a year ago to new data.
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August 2, 2015 at 6:23 am #52266Larry HayashigawaParticipant
This might work. Put some lapping compound in the cassette, clamp the cassette in a vise, insert a bearing you are willing to sacrifice into the cassette and work the old bearing inside the cassette with the axle. Before starting, make sure the surface of the outside of the bearing is smooth.
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July 7, 2015 at 4:02 pm #51145Larry HayashigawaParticipant
@ Joe
I’m 160 and 5’7″ and ran Masters at 405 for many years, so I have a similar problem as you do. Add in the extra 12 lbs of weight on rear tires (405 vs 365), my short height, low weight and low grip Mojo tires and it becomes very difficult to flex chassis.
I’ve had 3 brands of chassis over a period of 14 years of relatively heavy duty karting. Started out on a 32/32 mm (not OTK) kart, it was always pushing. I then went to same brand with 30 mm main rails & 32 mm cross rails, it was better but it was fast only for 2 -4 laps. After that the rears would get hot and greasy from the sliding and the lap time would start to fade. I think this was due to the IR not lifting enough.
Went to OTK 30mm/30mm and it was consistently faster and rarely pushed. I’ve never tried another 30/30 chassis but there are other newer 30/30 chassis (2014, 2015) that could be as good as an OTK.
After running OTK for 3 or 4 years, I switched to a 3rd brand 30/32 chassis and I had the same problem as the first brand in 30/32. I then switched back to OTK 30/30 and I was instantly faster.
All that said, If you can’t get a good 30/30 Tonykart I suspect that a another brand in 30/32 would work, especially if you plan to run MG tires (not Mojos).
I just wanted to add, that the good drivers can make most chassis work but if you’re an average racer, which is me, I couldn’t recommend anything other than an OTK chassis.
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July 2, 2015 at 9:47 am #50877Larry HayashigawaParticipant
The problem with variety of engines is they all have different power curves. The Leopard is really good when the track is point and squirt, like the Super Nats tracks. The Rotax is quick when the track is mid range like Phoenix or Tuscon and the Leopard not so quick. My personal experience is with the Motori very fast around Calspeed Nuovo, all mid range but slow around the Super Nat point squirt tracks
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March 25, 2015 at 1:46 pm #44814Larry HayashigawaParticipant
@ Michael Smith:
Ok, thats part of what I’m trying to figure out. The first rule of karting is the inside rear must lift to turn so what i cant figure out why would caster make the kart turn less when the inside wheel is clearly off the ground, and how with the inside wheel still on the ground with less caster, the kart rolls freely.
My Take:
At initial turn-in (lots of steering wheel displacement), the front end (caster, track width and tire grip) does most of the work and serves two functions 1) to change direction of the kart and 2) initially hike the IR. Here you want more front end “geometry”, which is steering wheel angle, caster and track width to a point.
After the initial turn-in (less steering wheel displacement), the lateral acceleration (side g-force) from the cornering acting on the kart & driver creates a force that twists the chassis, which keeps the IR lifted. In this phase of the turn less front end geometry is needed to keep the IR lifted because the lateral force is should be keeping the IR hiked. The IR can be hiked a lot or little by adjusting weights, seat position, axle and somewhat the front end. By reducing the front geometry with the right amount of caster & front spacers (usually less) the front end scrub is minimized and the IR is just skimming off the ground, this is condition when the kart is rolling through the turns efficiently.
Sounds simple but feeling it and then setting it up is not so easy to do and there are other ways to make adjustment to IR hike.
Larry
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March 23, 2015 at 2:16 pm #44677Larry HayashigawaParticipant
I ran Rotax Masters in So Cal for 7 or 8 years until this year. I’ve run CRG Road Rebel 32 mm and BlackStar 30 mm/32 mm, Energy 30 mm/32 mm and the TonyKart (OTK) EV-series 30 mm. I ran CRG for 2 years, ran Tony for 2 years, then ran the Energy for a year and then went back to Tony 3 more years.
What makes the Rotax series somewhat unique is the relatively low grip Mojo tires. If you run Masters and have to add lots of weight the situation gets even more exaggerated as many of the other kart brands have a difficult time generating enough side bite to effectively lift the inside rear tire. The more flexible chassis allow the IR to lift easier resulting in better roll through the turns with less sliding but….
Admittedly, I’ve never run the more recent all 30 mm chassis brand (Birel and ??) and that might be the critical requirement.
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February 28, 2015 at 9:10 am #43199Larry HayashigawaParticipant
Todd,
Wow! IRP 1974 Grand Nationals footage. Was the film Reed Light or Heavy? I ran both, if I remember right, there were 144 karts in Reed Light. I was around #70 and looked left and right on the starting grid and the view was endless sight of karts. I ended up 10th in Reed Light.
Thanks for sharing.
Larry
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February 11, 2015 at 12:18 am #42050Larry HayashigawaParticipant
Kart and HPV Sold!
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January 14, 2015 at 8:35 am #40439Larry HayashigawaParticipant
how much and what model of tony did the brakes come off?
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December 28, 2014 at 10:09 am #39474Larry HayashigawaParticipant
Here’s a link to testing of the EVO package from Japan.
http://www.eikoms.com/Info/2014/20141227_Test.htm
Here’s the Google translation and if I’m understanding the translation, bottomeline is: At this time there is no difference between the EVO and the older package.
On the same site, there are parts diagrams, etc of the EVO.
ROTAX MAX EVO test results and future policy of your report in regard engine
because the first EVO engine (Senior) arrived by extraction in random, Mizunami circuit, we tested in mid-Kyushu circuit.
Thank deeply to everyone you cooperation.
Sequentially, our plans to pay conduct also test / test drive in the other circuit.
EVO engine, conventional engine, we compare the specifications that various combinations of conversion kit to a conventional engine.
Differences related to the engine body was not at all performance difference, even taking into account the state of each of the engine.
Notably, EVO engine hardness is not felt much immediately after break-in, I was able to experience one of the improvements.
Carburetor, ignition, even in each mounting comparison the conversion kit of the exhaust valve to a conventional engine,
but was not able to find a difference in lap times compared with conventional engine,
if the new carburetor is mounted, improvement of pickup clearly observed, it will not require a delicate accelerator work.
The lap time basis, to you, but there is a possibility that put out the time is more easily same.
For the exhaust valve, since the opening and closing at predetermined rotational speed (7900rpm or 7600rpm) to digital,
and the conventional exhaust valve which controls the analog opening and closing, the difference seems out but performance specific to differences in In the setting that it was not able to find.
Although it is not a strict comparison because there is a difference that new and used also in relation to the muffler, the conclusion that either dominates It was a level that does not put out.
The new muffler seems durable mounting method has been improved is improved. The RMC race of 2015 is based on the above test results, I will assume that the provision of the following such rules. * Senior class, in regard Masters class, EVO engine and conversion kit (harness, exhaust valve, muffler), but the use of I do as possible from the opening round, used in the new (XS) carburetor only race, April 1 of you as an admission from the race,
there is a possibility to be before and after taking into account the supply situation, opinions of driver / entrant like from the ROTAX company. * Regard Junior class, we will as soon as possible to your report after the confirmation test test equipment arrives.You apologize for inconvenience, please, thank you. Ltd. glory Representative Director MatsuDo SakaeMakoto
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December 9, 2014 at 12:27 pm #38659Larry HayashigawaParticipant
I’m staying w/ Rotax in the Masters class. Hopefully, they stick to their past history and the new changes improve ease-of-use, consistency and reliability but leave performance the same. Nonetheless, I think the upgrades will be consistently faster than w/o but the old setup could be setup just as fast but just harder to do.
On the other hand, the cost of the upgrades seems reasonable, so why fight it? It’s less than 2 sets of tires.
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August 19, 2014 at 12:29 am #32265Larry HayashigawaParticipant
Mike,
I heard that they will be having practice till 9PM on Friday. Can you confirm?
Larry
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May 21, 2014 at 5:54 pm #27807Larry HayashigawaParticipant
SO CAL ROTAX CHALLENGE has argueably the most competitive Masters karting in the US
So Cal has two strong series with relatively large Masters grids: LAKC has already been mentioned, the other is the So Cal Rotax Challenge. This year the Masters class started off big time with 14 entries for the first race and 21 entries for the second race. There is coverage on this race on ekartingnews.com home page.
The So Cal Rotax Challenge races are spread across 3 different tracks in Southern California and in the past So Cal Masters grids have had 2 or 3 Rotax National Champions in attendance.
Come race the So Cal Rotax Challenge and get your butt run over by most of the grid.
Larry
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November 12, 2013 at 8:44 am #15368Larry HayashigawaParticipant
If there is a good Rotax Max Challenge series nearby, then I would pick the Rotax. If the nearest series is TaG, I wouldn’t pick the Rotax, as it’s been rendered uncompetitive by SKUSA when they added a 20lbs penalty this year. The Rotax is relatively competitive if the track has a lot of mid-range but will get killed if the track has lot of point and squirt turns.
I’ve run Leopards, Motori and Rotax and the Rotax is by far the more reliable engine. In fact, right now, they are offering a 12 month warranty. I don’t believe that any other engine supplier even offers a one day warranty, I think that says a lot about reliability and robustness of the package.
Like Dan said, it’s easier on the drive train because of the lower RPM, chains and sprocket seem to last forever. I think the lower RPM contributes to the longevity of the motor, you can go 2 seasons on the bottom and 1 season on the top.
With the advent of the new generation clutch, the package is unbeatable for reliability It’s not the sexiest sounding or looking motor but very utilitarian and damn it’s nice when the starter work every time. Get a powered kart stand and you can go to the track without need for help.
The carb is not complicated, just find someone or a shop that knows what they are doing and have them set it up for the track you are running. The carb is very forgiving once set up right, especially if you run the same track.
Larry
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November 10, 2013 at 8:14 am #15178Larry HayashigawaParticipant
Jason,
I agree, the added weight was too severe of a penalty and should be readjusted probably to 10 lbs instead of the 20 lbs. At Vegas, the Rotax will be at more of disadvantage so maybe SKUSA should go back to what they started the year with but just for Vegas.
Larry
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October 6, 2013 at 9:08 am #12165Larry HayashigawaParticipant
Chad,
You probably already found one but I have an older black Rotax radiator. Tell if you are still interested.
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