What fluid in wet clutch?

[Lawrence Doty]

What are YOU using in your wet clutch?

ATF?

What ATF?

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Lawrence
What kind of clutch is this? L&T, Horstman, Etc?
1,2,3 or 4 disc?

What motor package are you running? HPV, KPV, KT100, Etc?
Pipe or can?

There are a few oils you can use, but it will really narrow it down once we know what you’re running.

[Lawrence Doty]

Freddy

I have a horstman 3disk 4 spring

and an

L&T, 3 disk 4 spring(I think…?)

KT100 pipe. A2X and A3…for now…       Club runs a RLV3 so that’s what I have to built too.

and I’m going across the scale at around 410lbs

The L&T is currently on the motor but it needs fluid and I don’t know what was in it before I got it. Sooner than later it will get rebuilt…I just want to get something in there so I can run it this weekend.

 

Thanks

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

For the L&T Use the factory L&T oil, but you can also use another kind, I forgot the brand, but the bottle looks like Amsoil

And for the Horstman use factory Horstman clutch oil only

I wouldn’t use ATF, unless it was for a shifter kart gear box

 

I don’t know what part of California you’re at, but I can get my stuff delivered in 2 to 3 days from NorCal. I’d contact http://www.fastech-racing.com I think it only costs $26.00 a quart

Where do you live?

[Lawrence Doty]

Fastech is out of L&T, they suggested using ATF Pennzoil Type F

From my limited research it looks like Horstman oil has been replaced by Nytro Clutch Coolant

 

Lompoc

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

What part of California are you located at?

[Lawrence Doty]

I race at the Santa Maria track.

I found some type f and put that in.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Ok
The reason why I asked is because I happen to have a brand new L&T 1 quart bottle.

[Walt Gifford]

If you use ATF change it every track session and expect to blow up your clutch. At least use synthetic ATF. Type F is mineral oil made for old Fords.

Highly recommend Horstman steel nytro clutch coolant, works great in anything.

Gif

FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
41 years karting experience

[Lawrence Doty]

What type of Auto tranny was the old fords? Clutch?
I have lots of synthetic ATF…Mobile 1 for my Allison.

Pulled the cover off and a set of weights fell out…lever strap broke.
Friction disk and floater still have some life left in them and should get me through the last race of the season in Nov.

Not sure if I’m going to use a wet clutch or switch over to a dry…

Thanks for the help!

[Walt Gifford]

Ford-O-matic 1951.

FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
41 years karting experience

[Brian Mead]

Lawrence – Welcome to the sport, I hope you have alot of fun. Did you get the tools to remove/adjust your clutches? There are specific wrenches made for both, I don’t know if 0ne will work for both. You’ll need them to change the clutches.  If your using atf set the clutch so the filler holes are at 10 and 4 o,clock, fill it from the top till it leaks out the bottom hole, and seal it up. I’d check it after every heat after its cool off and top off if needed. If you have the tools I’d put the horstman on, sounds like you have a dxl, things will last forever.  With that pipe you want to slip it to 10.2k, and if tuned properly, you’ll know it.  They crack when you open them up, and coupled with the slipper clutch and right gear, do a good job of planting you back in the seat.  You may want to put some teflon tape on the needles for you carb, that will help seal it up.  Those carbs always pumped too much at the top, and not enough at the bottom, the high speed can be closed down quite a bit, and the bottom opened quite a bit. if your bogging off a turn, your lean, open it up.  If you 4 cycle down the chute, lean out the high speed.  Check the plug or head to see if your too rich or lean.  You want a nice coffee color tending to grey.  Grey is too lean, black too rich.  Have fun, Yamadogs dialed in are a blast!

 

 

[Lawrence Doty]

Brian, Thanks for the response!

I’ve been karting for about 6 years now…this is just my first time dealing with the kt’s and wet clutches.

Yes the Horstman is a DXL…but it’s toothless (needs a new drum…) so I haven’t even touch it yet…

The L&T, even with the busted  lever strap, was engaging enough to turn 14k. I got the tools I needed and a new lever strap…put it back together just so I  can race next month.

Thanks for the carb info that’s the kind of stuff I need to learn.

[patrick hubbell]

Have you replaced the lever strap pins yet? Also referred to as “dog bones”.

My opinion is the L&T is the best clutch. They do require more maintenance than a Horstman . Also, require more internal set up.  Always use the factory oil.  This nonsense with using ATF is wrong.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Patrick
I agree, considering the fact that clutches are anywhere from $250 to $300 and up
Well said.

[Lawrence Doty]

I replaced the busted lever strap and the drum/cover seal only. But when I disassembled the clutch I did notice that the pins were rough, so they will be on the list of items that get replaced when I rebuild it.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Cool!

Ad up to the list a bottle of L&T clutch oil, or a bottle of Horstman Steel Nytro coolant clutch oil also, extra gaskets, TriFlow spray lubricant for your drum bushing, an can of Maxima Chain wax/lube, some extra Autolite Spark plugs, and hit the track.

[Lawrence Doty]

Spark plugs came with the lever strap and I already have the TriFlow(My preferred chain lube)

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