VHSH Initial Settings

[Anthony Herpolsheimer]

Sorry if I’m beating a dead horse.  I searched the site but couldn’t find any answers to my situation.

 

I recently acquired a TM K9B engine and it came with most of a Dellorto VHSH 30 carb.  Looks as if the previous owner took the top cap off and pulled the entire slider assembly out and sent it as is.  I tried contacting him about it but he claims it isn’t there.  Oh well.  On to my question…

 

I started searching around for parts for this carb and realized very quickly I had better ask some questions.  There are 3 different sliders alone listed and at the price they are going for I’d like to make sure I start with the right one.  With the amount of tuning goodies available for this carb I could spend a fortune just getting something to try.  Can anyone recommend a good starting point?  I know it’ll change with weather and geographical conditions, but if anyone has a good, safe base to start from on this I’d really appreciate it.  I’m looking for proper slider, needle size and position, main and idling jets, etc.  I plan on obtaining a hand full of jets and needles, so a range would work if a specific one isn’t practical.

 

I’d like a good base to start from so I can tune it in from there.  Thanks!

2008 GP 8 Honda 125 / TM K9B
Building F125 Enduro

[Matt Martin]

Anthony,

 

If you have an Android phone, there’s an app in the Play store that I have used with success (Disclaimer: i’m still very new).

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.isenet.jettingtmkart

 

The app pulls weather data based on your GPS location (or you can manually input it); based on the variables you set (K9 engine generation, track length, etc.) it will output four different setup variations which should get you pretty close to proper running.

 

NOTE:  Some of the parts listed in the setup I found impossible to source, despite them showing up in many internet searches about TM carb setups K93 needle and CD1 jets.

 

here’s a thread which should help get started:

 

http://www.eknclassic.com/viewtopic.php?p=392790&sid=36e608721e3ce10bf4fdcc2efa6f848d

[Anthony Herpolsheimer]

Matt,

 

Thank you so much for the app and the link.  I read through that and made tons of notes.  I road race too so it was nice to see some info specific to that.

 

One thing I don’t see covered is the slider.  I see TS Racing offers a 50, 55, and 60 slider.  At over $100 each I’d like to know which one most poeple run and what the differences are.

 

Thanks again!

2008 GP 8 Honda 125 / TM K9B
Building F125 Enduro

[Glenn L Riggs]

You would like a 50 slide the higher numbers are leaner during acceleration. A good starting point would be a b45 inner idle, 60 outer idle k22 needle, top clip dq267 tube and 150 main depending on temp. Have seen used slides on e bay for much less and they really dont wear much. hope this helps

[Anthony Herpolsheimer]

Thanks all for the help.  From the info I have been able to gather here so far I have 3 different starting points to try, and they are all pretty similar so it sounds like you guys must be on the right track.

 

Matt, I tried that app that you suggested and that threw out some very different set ups.  I think for now I’ll stick with what everyone has said here.

 

Couple more things.  I see there are different needle seat assemblies available for this carb.  Do any of you adjust this from what came with it?  Also, should I be looking at different floats?  Seems like I was looking at a tuning guide a couple days ago that has talked about different floats and making sure they are set properly.  I’ll have to see if I can dig that up again.

2008 GP 8 Honda 125 / TM K9B
Building F125 Enduro

[Steen Carstensen]

The carb comes with #300 needle and seat. I have always used that and it works very well, but you have to run a “T” on the fuel line just before the carb, straight through goes to carb, “T” goes back to the gas tank. Some will run a smaller (#180 or so) needle and seat in combination with a Dellorto fuel pump, which has a build in bypass, that way you can run a straight fuel line to the carb with no “T”. Different floats i.e. weight, will change the fuel level in the bowl, you can achieve the same by bending the taps on the arm, so again six of one half a dozen of the other.

 

 

 

 

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