Home Forums Chassis & Handling OTK Fernando Alonso Kart, very bouncy, hopping, Please help

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    • #31602
      FREDDY SANDOVAL
      Participant

      My Son and I race at a very tight sprint track, at a club level home track

      We did pretty good with a 2010 Top Kart KT100, but now decided to switch chassis to a newer 2011 FA kart/ OTK with KT100 also

      We’ve been chasing a hopping problem, we narrowed the front track, widened the rear track, retightened front nerf bars at bumper, retightened front torsion bar, played with many different air pressures

      All that seemed to help a little, but I noticed my boy still struggles a little

      This only happens at our fastest double sweeper corner

      We currently run a spec tire Bridgestone YLC

      We run the OTK MX something wheels? Neutral axle, camber and caster is also neutral, the kart gets sniped aligned every race

      Can someone please chime in and tell my what I need to do?

      I told my 17 year old boy who happens to be an excellent driver, to quit driving the kart like a TOP KART, so the poor guy tries 3 different driving styles, but just can’t get the kart to glide smooth through the big sweeper corner.

      Please help! Anybody with OTK kart experience

      Thank you, in advance, FASTFREDDY.

    • #31615
      TJ Koyen
      Moderator

      It very well could be a matter of driving. It definitely is a different feeling kart and takes some getting used to all the positive front end feel it has.

      You’re going the right way; taking front width out and adding rear width.

      What front bar? The blade? If so, is it flat (horizontal)?

      The OTK kart has two sets of wheels; MXC and MXP. MXC are used by the majority of drivers at a regional/national level because they remove grip from the tire and keep the tire cooler over a run, resulting in a more consistent feel. MXPs are the stock wheels which are used in low grip situations because they do the opposite.

      The kart shouldn’t really hop badly on YLC and with all that grip removed.

      What are the actual front and rear track widths at this point?

      Driver/Coach/Wrench : Innovative Performance/Exprit
      Owner : Oktane Visual - www.oktanevisual.com
      www.facebook.com/oktanevisual
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    • #31622
      Brian Degulis
      Participant

      My kid went from a DR to a Tonykart and had the same problem. It was driving. He had to get used to less wheel input in the Tonykart. If you have a Gopro you’ll be able to see it if that’s the problem.

       

      Brian

    • #31627
      Matt Dixon
      Participant

      If its only 1 corner have your boy straight arm the kart in that corner. Push with arm against the wheel and opposite heel on the heel stop. That should settle that down and keep you from tuning out the rest of the track.

      94y

    • #31630
      FREDDY SANDOVAL
      Participant

      Thank you all for your input, we’ve been working on different driving styles, and are fully awared of sensitivity steering, and we also know that OTK’s are very soft and sensitive.

      All of you guys are right, we’re trying all we can, including different driving lines and styles

      The rear width was at 45″ we brought it out to 55″

      Front had big fat spacer and 2 small spacers ( we removed fat spacer, and placed it outside)

      Front torsion bar is the oval shape tubing kind, not blade type ( it is horizontal, flat against floor pan)

      Please note that all the adjustments we’ve done, like retightening of front torsion bar, front nerf bar, rear track to 55″ all remains to be tested, I still don’t know what the result will be till this weekend ( race day ) Not much time to test. Lol. I just wanna be able to glide smoothly, with out bouncing/hopping so much.

      Do these karts like high air pressures?

      Thank you all, again for your help.

       

    • #31635
      TJ Koyen
      Moderator

      My guess is those changes should be more than enough then if you haven’t tested them yet. I’ve found that you can change the behavior of the rear a ton by working in a just 1/2″ window.

      Tire pressure isn’t dependent on chassis, just tire. YLCs should be around 11-13psi cold usually.

      Your front width sounds fine. One large spacer is the factory baseline.

      Driver/Coach/Wrench : Innovative Performance/Exprit
      Owner : Oktane Visual - www.oktanevisual.com
      www.facebook.com/oktanevisual
      www.instagram.com/oktanevisual

    • #31637
      FREDDY SANDOVAL
      Participant

      Matt, TJ, and Brian

      Thank you for your help, you’re right, we’ll just have to test while running the race. We have 3 heat races to adjust, and the main event is the most important one.

      I will definitely tell my son about keeping his arms straight and steer with minimal effort and with more gentleness.

      Thank you all.

    • #34889
      Rod Hawkins
      Participant

      I assume you mean rear was 54 and now it is 55? That alone with do a lot.

    • #34976
      FREDDY SANDOVAL
      Participant

      Yeah, Rod
      And all of you guys for the input
      We brought the rear track back to 54, then narrowed the front track by one spacer
      played with tire pressure and now drives like a dream

      Thank you all, very much. Fast Freddy.

      The only issue I have now is that my boy from time to time keeps forgetting, and drives it like his 2011 Top Kart ( old kart )
      Doesn’t happen too much, just a couple of times now and then he shows that old behavior. Lol

    • #34995
      Ted Hamilton
      Participant

      Don’t forget seat positioning and effect on Vcg either… Us American drivers are slightly different build and size than the Euros they pattern those seats and dimensions after at the factories… :)

      www.facebook.com/hamiltonhelmets/
      2014 Praga Dragon / IAME KA-100

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