Home › Forums › 4-Cycle Racing › LO206 on an OTK?
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February 1, 2014 at 4:24 pm #20797Jim StineParticipant
I plan to run a newly formed LO206 class and am wondering if I will run into fitment problems with the engine package on my 2011 EVRR.
Anyone have an Animal based 4-stroke on an OTK chassis that can inform me of any potential issues with fitment??
I assume I’ll need a 15 degree mount. Would prefer to keep it as inboard drive.
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February 1, 2014 at 6:08 pm #20800bruce jonesParticipant
I’ve got an 07 Kosmic with a 206 on right now. You will need to move the seat strut on the right and probably the rear cross member but its well worth it. Our Kosmic out handles anything on the track.
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February 1, 2014 at 6:37 pm #20801Jim StineParticipant
I’ve got an 07 Kosmic with a 206 on right now. You will need to move the seat strut on the right and probably the rear cross member but its well worth it. Our Kosmic out handles anything on the track.
Hmm that’s not good. I don’t want to get into any frame modification.
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February 3, 2014 at 8:14 am #20881John MatthewsParticipant
Hi Jim,
It’s probably not a big deal but unless you can find someone who has your exact chassis and has converted it to a 4 stroke you will have to check it out for yourself. I’ve found that most 2 cycle sprint chassis can be made to work fairly easily. With a 15 deg mount and the small sprockets usually run on modern sprint tracks clearances that you think will be impossible are often not a problem.
I documented the process with an older CRG chassis on my website, it will be the same for you. Again, I have to stress that you probably won’t know if it will “work” for your kart until you bolt the engine onto your frame.
Here’s the link
Let me know if you have any questions or need help.
Cheers,
John
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February 3, 2014 at 9:32 am #20886David ColeKeymaster
Hi Jim,
My guess depends on the motor mount you have.
DB Motorsports set up Howden with a Exprit Noesis for Rock Island Grand Prix.
David Cole - EKN Managing Editor
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February 4, 2014 at 11:29 am #20966Taylor YoungParticipant
I have set up 2 2010 EVRRs with World Formulas on them. We used Burris 5 degree mounts on both. One EVRR was a 100cc chassis, that one we had to modify the mount a little bit to get it further over away from the seat strut. Im not sure if there is more clearance with the LO206. The 125cc EVRR we did not have to modify the mount.
When it comes to Tony Kart I was told by factory tuners to not under any circumstance bend or move the seat strut on the engine side. It is in a specific location. The seat strut on the opposite side can however be moved.
We first tried a 15 degree mount but seemed like the seat strut bolt got more in the way of the clutch and chain guard. With a 5 degree, it sat just bellow the bolt. But like I said this is a world formula, so a little bit different.
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February 4, 2014 at 5:27 pm #20983John MatthewsParticipant
I have set up 2 2010 EVRRs with World Formulas on them. We used Burris 5 degree mounts on both. One EVRR was a 100cc chassis, that one we had to modify the mount a little bit to get it further over away from the seat strut. Im not sure if there is more clearance with the LO206. The 125cc EVRR we did not have to modify the mount. When it comes to Tony Kart I was told by factory tuners to not under any circumstance bend or move the seat strut on the engine side. It is in a specific location. The seat strut on the opposite side can however be moved. We first tried a 15 degree mount but seemed like the seat strut bolt got more in the way of the clutch and chain guard. With a 5 degree, it sat just bellow the bolt. But like I said this is a world formula, so a little bit different.
Good info here.
But….
Are the “factory tuners” familiar with LO 206? For sure seat position is a critical tuning tool but it would seem if someone were used to setting up with an engine that was much lighter, and had a radiator on the opposite side of the driver it might be different.
I suspect that for entry level club racing simply getting the corner weights as close to where you want them will be fine.
Cheers,
John
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February 5, 2014 at 2:12 pm #21027Jim StineParticipant
Thanks for the help all. I talked to someone that has done what I’m trying to do and said it’s possible without modification. I’ll share any specifics I come across for the sake of others.
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February 6, 2014 at 6:09 pm #21080John MatthewsParticipant
Hi Jim,
The power lost through a jackshaft system will be insignificant. As will the change to the handling of your kart from moving the seat struts.
I don’t want to sound mean but if you were competitive enough for any of this stuff to make a difference you wouldn’t be asking these questions.
Bolt the thing on and go run about a zillion laps, that’s what will make you fast. Talk to the other guys at your track who seem to know what they’re doing. Test, Test, and Test some more. Keep detailed notes. Swap karts with anybody who’s faster than you and see how their set-up feels.
I can understand your desire to get everything just right but it’s not gonna happen before you get your kart out on track the first time. LO206 is designed as a beginner/sportsman class, a place to learn and you learn by doing.
Go get yourself a BFH, a 2×4, a set of bathroom scales, a measuring tape, a stopwatch, notepad and pencil. That, lots of pump gas, oil changes, tires, and determination are all you need to master this.
Cheers,
John
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February 7, 2014 at 3:23 pm #21154Jim StineParticipant
I don’t want to sound mean but if you were competitive enough for any of this stuff to make a difference you wouldn’t be asking these questions.
I’m not new to karting, just to inboard drive 4-cycles. The only question I’ve asked is: will this physically fit without frame modification? Which I got my answer to. :)
Yes it should fit without any modifications to frame or struts. Just get a Burris or black rhink motor mount. They have nearly infinite adjustment for any clearance issues. I just talked to someone that tested a 206 on a new FA and arrow x3 kart without issue
Excellent, that’s what I was hoping to hear. Another confirmation that it will be no problem.
Now I just have to decide if I really want to leave my friends in Yamaha where I’m already a podium regular and move to an entry level class just to save about $1,000/year. That’s a whole other topic though…
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February 6, 2014 at 7:13 pm #21093Gary LawsonParticipant
Yes it should fit without any modifications to frame or struts. Just get a Burris or black rhink motor mount. They have nearly infinite adjustment for any clearance issues. I just talked to someone that tested a 206 on a new FA and arrow x3 kart without issue
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February 9, 2014 at 6:18 am #21206John MatthewsParticipant
Run both classes and spend an extra $1000/yr ;)
If you’re thinking of jumping ship to support your club in getting new folks into karting that’s a great thing. But…. The LO206 will be quite a bit slower so unless you get a bunch of other Yamaha drivers to switch you might get bored either running by yourself or smoking a bunch of newbies. If it were me I’d seriously think about getting another kart like the one on my website for LO206. That way you could run both classes, let a friend race your extra kart, or sell it to somebody just starting out. If your club wants to get people to switch over from Yamaha World Formula would be a much better choice since lap times are comparable and you still get the reliability of 4 stroke.
BTW, I don’t consider moving a seat strut over an inch a “modification” more of an adjustment….
Cheers,
John
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February 10, 2014 at 11:04 am #21546B.J. SchnettlerParticipant
I have no doubt that the LO206/Clone classes at NCMP will have plenty of competition. This class isn’t really a new class but a conversion of our clone class since a vast majority of the clone racers wanted to have a more reliable engine package for 2014.
I just started racing mid-2013 and while I couldn’t quite keep pace with the majority of the field, I know that these classes will continue to have large fields and great competition this year. The only current question is how weights will have to be adjusted to keep the 2 engines even in a mixed class. We expect to see very few clones this year as the club members overwhelmingly favored the changes for 2014.
B.J.
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February 10, 2014 at 3:02 pm #21558Jim StineParticipant
Yes, it will be a big class, and a competitive class. Don’t let the term “entry-level” fool you. There are some very good and very experienced drivers in the Clone/LO class at NCMP.
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February 9, 2014 at 6:47 pm #21262bruce jonesParticipant
John,
Your my kind of guy.
If I was running Daytona or Vegas, I doubt I’d be welding on it. But, I’m a 48 year fat guy in a economy sportman division in Kerswaw SC…I thiink it’ll be ok…
BJ
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February 10, 2014 at 6:09 pm #21572bruce jonesParticipant
I am really looking forward to racing down there. I’ll be running a clone on CRG Kalifornia for at least a short time and my daughter will have the 206 on the Kosmic. I also did a CRG IRIS (and welded onthat one too) for another guy in the 206 class. Hopefully, one of us will run good.
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February 10, 2014 at 6:37 pm #21575John MatthewsParticipant
Wish I could be there….
I moved up to Northern Michigan just in time for my old club PKRA to start running World Formula. I’ve been a big fan of the LO206 since it came out, even had my hands slapped a few times for sharing my thoughts on the whole clone thing. You’ll have a blast with it but don’t forget to keep it fun. Winning is great, beating them with old equipment and a small budget is even better ;)
Cheers,
John
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April 10, 2015 at 7:56 am #45824Bernie LacottaParticipant
John, time to move back! LO206 Sr. class at PKRA begins in May !!! Part of the Briggs National Racing Series. Miss seeing your smiling face !!!
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February 5, 2014 at 4:06 pm #21030Ted HamiltonParticipant
Why not get the Burris 4-cycle jackshaft and run the sprocket outboard like the chassis expects? :) BMI and Buller also make other 2-cycle jackshafts that will work with the proper adapter plate for the engine….Also makes chain and 1 piece gear changes easier. Hope that helps… Regards,
Ted
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February 5, 2014 at 5:04 pm #21031Jim StineParticipant
Why not get the Burris 4-cycle jackshaft and run the sprocket outboard like the chassis expects? :) BMI and Buller also make other 2-cycle jackshafts that will work with the proper adapter plate for the engine….Also makes chain and 1 piece gear changes easier. Hope that helps… Regards, Ted
I considered that but the potential power loss worries me in such a low HP class. Probably insignificant, but there’s 2 extra sprockets, an extra chain, 2 bearings, and a shaft that all have the potential to be parasitic to power. Having said that, I tend to over think everything…
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