Home Forums Briggs & Stratton 4-Cycle Racing Briggs LO206 LO206 Chassis Tuning

This topic contains 7 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  Rob Kozakowski 4 years ago.

  • Author
  • #48370

    Evan Fraser

    Hi EKN,

    This year I’ve gone from racing Rok GP to racing LO206 and am working out how to tune for it.  It’s a big change as I’ve also switched karts.  The principles are different and the engine is much more sensitive to chassis tuning.  So here’s what I was using last year:

    • 2006 CRG Road Rebel 32mm
    • Vortex ROK GP
    • MG Yellow

    This year:

    • 2013 Formula K FK01 30mm
    • Briggs LO206
    • MG Red
    • 50mm rear axle
    • 54″ rear track
    • Seat tight
    • Bumper tight
    • No bars
    • One and a half spacers front track
    • Outermost ackerman hole
    • Camber/caster adjusting with tire wear

    I’ve caught on that chain tension management is huge. Wasting as little engine power on loose chain and gummed up bearings as possible is vital.  Where I’m running in to trouble is finding the sweet spot between bind and grip.  Obvious: Too tight, bind, slow.  Too free, slide, scrub.  Is the trick really to just learn to drive a very free chassis?

    Also the chain: It stretches and needs to be checked and tensioned, yes.  Is there anything at all I can do about the tight spots like change sections of the chain?  Assuming I can even find them?

    Evan Fraser

    #43 - Formula K FK01 / Briggs LO206

    West Coast Kart Club

  • #48377

    David Cole

    Could be the type of chain you are using. 219?

    Driving wise, it’s about slowing down and being smooth. The less mistakes the better as you don’t have the HP to pull you out of it.

    David Cole - EKN Managing Editor

  • #48380

    Bernie Lacotta

    Tight spots in chain may be related to the split sprockets. Try to get the “splits” even at both cuts. Some can be a bugger. Once you get used to working with split sprockets it’s not too bad. Chassis wise you want free but not loose. That inside rear must give up traction. As David said, SMOOTH !!!

  • #48417

    Evan Fraser

    Ya I’m getting to smooth.  Gentle hands, lock in the turn, no twitching.  I’m using #35 chain bought from one of our local dealers (whom I trust) and it’s racing chain.  My father-in-law knows where I can get some really quality chain though so I may get that in bulk and change it frequently.

    Bernie you’re so right about the split sprocket, what a little bugger that thing is.  Loose but not free.  I’ll start with where I’m binding and slowly loosen it off.  Thanks guys!

    Evan Fraser

    #43 - Formula K FK01 / Briggs LO206

    West Coast Kart Club

  • #48436

    Gary Lawson

    I’ve seen club racers use 35 chain all year with very little to no maintenance and not have an issue at all. 35 is very tough chain.

  • #48483

    Rob Kozakowski

    Evan, check out my comments in the tech forum on 35 sprockets… point #2 is pretty important to align the sprocket halves and get the bind out of the chain… a lesson I was taught by a Western Canadian Briggs champ.

    As Gary said, the 35 chain can be run pretty much all year, with simply lubing it before every session – if things are properly aligned.

    Are you guys running at max 55″ in BC, as opposed to the ASN Canada 50″ max?  What size rear tires do you run there?

  • #48558

    Evan Fraser

    Max is 55″, I’m running 54″ because of the short hubs.  6″ rear tires.  I’ll check out your comments.

    Evan Fraser

    #43 - Formula K FK01 / Briggs LO206

    West Coast Kart Club

  • #48575

    Rob Kozakowski

    I’m glad to hear that you guys are running at 55″.  Calgary is at 55″, Edmonton is at 53.5″ – technically 136 cm (a compromise for local political reasons).

    Calgary and Edmonton are allowing 7.1 rear tires.

    As much as the ASN specs are nice, Western Canada just doesn’t have enough ASN-spec 4-cycle chassis kicking around to make it feasible for everyone to run at the ASN-spec 50″.

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