Home › Forums › 2-Cycle Racing › Horstman 3-disk clutch
- This topic has 13 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 1 month ago by Joshua Guiher.
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February 3, 2015 at 9:44 am #41617Joshua GuiherParticipant
It was recommended to our team to run the 3-disk clutch on our yamaha pipe engines. The clutch itself has worked fine, with one exception. We are blowing through bushings every 2-3 races. We are using tri-flow on them after every run.
By “blowing through them” I mean that when you take the clutch off, there isn’t a single fragment left after just 2-3 race days.
Obviously this sucks because it is a PITA to pull the entire deal apart to change this. Is there something that we might be doing wrong or a different maintenance routine that we can use to make them last longer?
Thanks.
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February 3, 2015 at 10:17 am #41618tony zambosParticipant
The bushing deterioration rate seems high in light of it being properly maintained. Two questions and please, do not take offense at the first one. Is the can of Tri-Flow being shaken befor use and are you using a third bearing support? As for causes, could your gears be out of alignment or the chain too tight.
LAD Specialties customer / tony kart / rotax / kt100
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February 3, 2015 at 10:21 am #41620Joshua GuiherParticipant
No worries, it was our rookie season so we are still learning.
Yeah, we are shaking it, but maybe not long enough.
Yes to a 3rd bearing.
Maybe the chain is too tight, or we aren’t getting enough down to the bushing or something. We are just using a split-second spray (couple of drops) each time.
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February 3, 2015 at 10:43 am #41623tony zambosParticipant
Josh,
you might want to tip the kart on is side slightly when you oil the clutch. That’s good news that you’re a rookie. Ask a couple of other 2-cycle guys at the track about oiling and chain tension. I’ve never seen a rookie denied help.
Good Luck.LAD Specialties customer / tony kart / rotax / kt100
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February 3, 2015 at 11:20 am #41636Greg WrightParticipant
It would be a good idea to take a close look at the crankshaft where the bushing rides. Cranks that are showing visible wear at that spot eat bushings.
Greg Wright
Rapid Racing Inc.
Vintage B-Stock Pilot
"When in doubt Gas it, It won't help but it ends the suspense." -
February 4, 2015 at 7:50 am #41681Walt GiffordParticipant
Check your chain for pulsation (loose-tight). Sometimes you get a sprocket or carrier that is slightly off or the axle gets a slight bend. I spend allot of time getting the chain not to pulsate. Also check the engine crank for run out. Other than that, little clutch with a piped engine is a hard test, a lower stall speed and more corner speed will help it live. Change the bushing before it disintegrates and everything will stay fresh longer.
Gif
FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
41 years karting experience -
February 4, 2015 at 12:40 pm #41685Gary LawsonParticipant
What is your clutch engagement? If you are slipping too high it will make a lot of heat and eat through the bushing and disks
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February 4, 2015 at 12:45 pm #41686Joshua GuiherParticipant
around 8,400. Is that too high?
I was trying to get it to pull right off of turn 8? (the left hander as you head up the hill) at Pitt Race.
It is on it’s way to Sean, but when I get it back I’ll start with the chain tension, check the axle, etc and just stay up on it.
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February 4, 2015 at 5:29 pm #41699Gary LawsonParticipant
No that should be fine. And being the new style pipe you should not be having this issue. They aren’t much different than a can as far as clutch abuse. Likely misalignment, chain tension too tight, or a crank issue. Sean will get you straightened out I’m sure
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February 17, 2015 at 4:09 am #42453Joshua GuiherParticipant
Here is video I took last night of me spinning the clutch. I changed the bushing before the last race weekend and I ran about 25 laps at PittRace on it.
Sorry if it is turned sideways, but for some reason Google Drive is forcing it to vertical, when I shot it horizontal.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0qndOooA1buVTRkNDJwT2FPYVE/view?usp=sharing
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March 13, 2015 at 12:32 pm #43967Jay SinonParticipant
One other thing that you might want to check is the spacer thickness, if the spacer is not the right size it will allow the clutch drum to ride back and forth on the crank and that will prematurely wear out the chain, sprockets and the clutch drum bushing.
TaG Sr.
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April 6, 2015 at 1:20 pm #45534Joshua GuiherParticipant
Short answer to this is Sean fixed me up.
Basically I didn’t do enough between race maintenance and wore the bushing out at the beginning. This in turn roughed up the crank and caused the bushings to wear out faster than expected.
I now have a better maintenance program and shouldn’t have further issues with this (I hope).
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April 20, 2015 at 8:24 am #46406Walt GiffordParticipant
Is that a steel nytro that’s been cut open to run as a dry clutch? I didn’t think the wet clutch friction disks could take the heat without coolant.
Gif
FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
41 years karting experience -
April 20, 2015 at 8:27 am #46407Joshua GuiherParticipant
No, it’s the HDC 5 three disk with option outer cover.
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