A fellow is selling his 2012 FA kart in the EKN classifieds–with this on the ID plate:
This OTK kart is newer then mine.
I’m essentially trying to find out what year my kart is. Looking at pictures of the EVR, the EVRR, and the EVK, I can see subtle differences. I know I don’t have an EVK, but I’m not sure if it’s an EVR or EVRR. The floor pan sticker kit reads EVRR, but one of the previous owners said the original frame was replaced by the one that is on it now. He sold it to another fellow, and I bought it from him.
The only numbers that really matter to you are the last two in the sequence and the serial numbers on the chassis.
The first two numbers are the application number to the CIK. Your chassis is the 56th application accepted and item homologated during that period. The other chassis is the 42nd, but of a different period. Chassis, bodywork and brakes are all homologated at the same time, so those items are intermingled in the app numbers. The center letters are the item in question. FR = brakes, CA = bodywork and CH = chassis. You will find that many items from manufacturers are applied for at once, so their numbers are in sequence, regardless of the item. See the 2006-2011 homologation list on the link below.
The chassis you are looking at falls within this list. Please note that those apps were extended until 2017. This means that chassis type and design is legal to be made until then. That chassis could have been made as early as 2006, and as late as yesterday. The serial number is the key to obtaining that answer.
It could have been built as early as 2009 or as late as the week before you bought it. The serial number is the key to that answer as well.
So, it is possible that your chassis was actually built after his even though you say that his is “newer”. Newer in karting is probably best represented in how many uses rather than the year it was manufactured.
To illustrate the point, one of my favorite chassis of all time is a birel M32, with an 08 homologation. This chassis design is over 8 years old since the homologation was from 06-08, but if someone had a brand new one, I wouldn’t hesitate to grab it, regardless of the year of manufacture.
Bottom line, inspect the chassis, check for flattened tubes and straightness and decide if the price is worth it. All the numbers and codes don’t really mean much in the grand scheme of things.
I hope that I answered more questions than I caused.
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