Home Forums 2-Cycle Racing First Race prep (photo intensive)

This topic contains 5 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by  Walt Gifford 3 years, 5 months ago.

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  • #48754

    Jose Torres
    Participant

    I m prepping for my sons first kart race, we will be travelling 4 hours( we are planning on the F100 club at calsppeed) so we would like to have everything up to par . If anyone would be so kind as to maybe point out some “tech ” issues that need to be addressed I would appreciate any help.

    here is a series of photos

    I did print the tech checklist so im aware of the safety wire /cotter pin required at the

    steering wheel to hub bolts (will be safety wired)

    steering shaft: hub to shaft bolt( will be cotter pinned)

    bottom of steering shaft (not drilled so will nylock suffice?)

    tie rod end bolts ( will be wired)

    kin pin bolts<span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>(not drilled so will nylock suffice?)</span>

    spindle: to secure front wheels <span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>(not drilled so will nylock suffice?)</span>

    pedal pivot to chassis<span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>(not drilled so will nylock suffice?)</span>

    actuating rod and cables ( good)

    master cylinder to chassis bolts <span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>(not drilled so will nylock suffice?)</span>

    calipers to chassis bolts<span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>(not drilled so will nylock suffice?)</span>

    pad retaining rods (good)

    brake rotor to hubs ( crg style e clips with circlipesque safety clips)

    no weight ballast

    secondary brake cable (good)

    chain guards and clutch cover (good?)

    functional fuel and water recovery system?

    Third bearing support safety wired or zip tied?

    websize (1 of 24)

    websize (2 of 24)

     

    websize (3 of 24)

    websize (4 of 24)

     

    websize (8 of 24)

    websize (9 of 24)

    websize (10 of 24)

    websize (13 of 24)

    websize (17 of 24)

    websize (19 of 24)

    websize (23 of 24)

    sorry for all the pics

    thanks

  • #48755

    Ted Hamilton
    Participant

    IIRC,  EVERY braking and steering bolt must be safety wired.  Overkill, if you ask me.  The Europeans seem to get by fine with nylocks and frequent checking, but they also build and rebuild their kart far more often than we tend to…  So…  Be prepared to break quite a few 1/16″ drill bits!  LOL

    I’ve successfully drilled some of the bolts by hand, on the kart.  I sacrafice one nylock (per bolt size) and loosen it a few turns then drill through the nylock and bolt.  Then the nylock serves as a guide for all other bolts of that size that I need to drill.

    I use lots of oil and a relatively high load and low speed to prevent heat building and work-hardening of the bolt, which makes drilling next to impossible.  Alternatively, you can remove the bolt and use a commercially available safety wire guide device.  I was too cheap to get one and devised my method above…  (Actually, it was borne of having to drill a lot for the next day and not having the device…)

    Hope that helps.  Welcome to the addiction!

    Cheers,

    ~Ted

    www.facebook.com/hamiltonhelmets/
    2014 Praga Dragon / IAME KA-100

  • #48778

    Jose Torres
    Participant

    Thanks Ted for the response

     

  • #49780

    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Check the link. The bolt holding your steering block you want to keep that as short as possible and keep the head on the left side.

    Drilling a Bolt

    Gif

    FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
    Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
    Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
    41 years karting experience

  • #49811

    Jose Torres
    Participant

    Thanks for the link

    I cross drilled most of the nut/bolts that weren’t already e clip/cotter pinned.

    We had our first race last week at cal speed and our pit crews (me) inexperience showed . My drivers axle shifted on the bearings losing his brakes, the crg floating disc design has some flaws , thanks to fellow racers at Rebel Mutt Karting for loaning us a set of floating disc pins , that allowed us to continue racing that day. On the main my driver found himself with a throttle that wouldn’t return shut. No it wasn’t the throttle return spring it was the bolt/ nut assembly that attached the throttle pedal to the frame it seemed to have tightened on itself to the point it would not return shut , that was around lap 9 of 16 , he about 5 seconds off pace and losing ground when it took us out for the race. We had fun ,thanks to the friendly racers of the f100/tricity clubs for making us feel welcomed . We learned a lot I’ll post pics and do a proper write up hopefully this will help other newbies like us

     

  • #49814

    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    I’ve seen that problem. I grind down the pedal so it’s shorter than the stud so you can tighten the nut and the pedal’s still free. Don’t know why they don’t make the studs longer.

    Gif

    FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
    Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
    Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
    41 years karting experience

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