External Starter for a CR125

[Todd Kageals]

Guys,

I’ve been thinking about an electric starter for my Stock Honda for a long time.  There have been several times where either my kart or my Father’s kart has been difficult to start on the grid.  It’s cost us some very expensive track time from time to time.  We usually us the block and strap method but if the motor is flooded you just can’t get enough revolutions with that.  Dad is a machinist and is making an adapter that will screw on to the flywheel where you screw in the flywheel puller.  We will have a small hex shaft that will go into the adapter he makes to allow for a small hole in the seat (as opposed to some similar designs that would require a 1 inch hole for a socket).  Now we just need a lightweight way to turn then hex shaft.  Anybody ever tried to start a CR125 with a drill?  I’ve already found a clutch that would work so that it would not be ripped out of your hands when the engine fires and I already have an 18v drill that would work.  Just not sure about the power of the drill.  I can turn the crank by hand so I imagine the drill will work fine and one battery should start the engine all day?  I don’t know…. looking for opinions.

Thanks,

Todd

[Clark Gaynor Sr.]

We use to start our 250 that way.  Just a normal hand held Coleman as I recall, not the type with the battery on board.  You just have to make sure it will fit down in the seat and line up with the crank.  It worked fine.

Clark Sr.

[johnny brooks]

I bought this starter nut from these guys:
http://www.accu-products.com/accu-products-specialties/bosch-drill-kit-starter-tool-combo-deal.html
(the drill and clutch seemed a bit expensive–nut was 25 bucks).

I have started my motor with a cheap Ryobi 18v drill, but if it needed a lot of spinning (flooded), the drill battery does not have the capacity. A fresh new lithium 24v or 36v drill with a spare battery might be OK. I use a standard Coleman w/ separate battery….however my Honda is on a laydown so I don’t have seat clearance issues.

[David Cole]

Here is another option, which is now legal in SKUSA and other sanctioning bodies http://ekartingnews.com/2014/03/06/industry-news-hegar-manufacturing-offering-quick-start-for-honda-cr125-engines/

David Cole - EKN Managing Editor

[Greg Lindahl]

I start my CR80’s with a nut on the ignition side.

My DeWalt doesn’t have quite enough power to do the job all day, but the Coleman does.  I use a very small Li Ion battery making the starter very light.

[Brian Degulis]

We make a plug that slips into the axle on the engine side with a 3/4″ bolt in it. Then use a coleman starter to spin the axle. It works great and no engine modification is needed but you have to be on the stand or prop the back up.

 

Brian

[Todd Kageals]

David,

I’d LOVE to have that onboard starter but I just can’t justify the $600+!

I’ve got a Chinese gokart starter motor on the way ($20.00).  Going to do as I said above with the adapter and will report back with how it works out.  I’d use the Coleman too but those things are $250.  Let’s face it…. I’m cheap!

[Adam Gorrell]

I do have the Hegar electric starter on one of my Shifters. I must say, if there is one thing you could save up for, it would be this system. It works so amazingly well and has the quality is second to none. Keep in mind though, the $650 is the starter, high quality Shorai Lithium battery, machined battery mounts, and wire loom. In some cases I believe you will need the SharkShifter Offset Motor Mount, Offset J-Arm, and offset Gear. I needed that plus the low profile oil plug bolt because it would hit the frame. If you are small and have the space between the seat and motor then you dont need that extra stuff. I however run a XL Ribtect Seat and I did need that stuff because there was literally maybe a 1/4″ Between my seat and motor to begin with.

It is on one of my Tony Kart Kryptons, but that is my experience. Well worth the money honestly. Its one of those things like an electric lift. Not necessary but if you can get it, you will be thanking yourself you did.

[Chris Hegar]

It’s very hard to find a starter unit that will fit in your seat and through a hole to start a 125 with but it can be done. We also started 125 laydowns and TM moto packages the same with a large real kart starter but it’s a pain. Pretty good compression from a 125 especially when it’s been sitting around cold makes me think the drill idea isn’t gonna cut it. Our piece is compact, user friendly and durable, that’s what we attempted to build for the operator, $649 is a lot of cash but once you spend the time to create a system that actually works you’ll find you wish you had asked more. Set of tires is $250-$275, it’s a consumable, gas $6+ per gallon also consumable, these are items a 125 eats daily but we don’t hesitate to pay for. $499 Mychron, $770 expansion pack, AMB transponder, items like this don’t give up and are all on par with our starter’s life span. Were not trying to rob anyone but this item was lots of work and it does have a good group standing behind it. It’s not for everyone but it is here if you need it.

[Greg Lindahl]

My race partner has the Hegar starter on his CR125 and it works great.  No more of the back breaking stuff for he an me.

This gent is not small and we’ve been able to mount the seat and get the balance correct without a special mount, but we’ve been creative with the seat.

This is not an inexpensive sport, but it’s an inexpensive motorsport.

[Kerry Matthews]

I have one of the Hegar starters on my Stock Honda, and while I had a couple of installation issues, it has been worth EVERY penny I spent on it!  I’ve had it on for a couple of races so far, and this starter and an electric Kart Lift stand were the most important equipment investments I’ve made karting wise!  They make running a shifter kart a ‘one man’ event, since I no longer need someone to help me lift and lower my kart, or get it started on the start line… Especially a wall start!

[Todd Kageals]

Just thought I would post back on what we came up with.  Dad essentially made a nut like posted above but with a 3/8 square drive hole in the middle.  We chuck a short socket extension in the drill with just the Coleman clutch on the end.  We drive it with my 20v drill.  It started 2 karts through a full day of practice and a full race day and still had 2 of 3 “bars” on the battery.  It works great.  The kart was a little flooded at one point on Friday and we just spun it with the drill until it started!  Soooooo much easier than turning it by hand.  Chris….. yeah….. I’d love the on-board starter you guys have built.  However, I can’t spend the money for it  BECAUSE of all of the things you mentioned above…..lol!

[Timothy Strawkas]

Has anyone taken pictures of the kit parts on the sharkshifter kit? Have you got the instructions scanned pdf form? I actually use my shifter for track days and cardio workout while having fun. I could build one pretty easy using A one-way clutch bearing. I am wanting to know and see how they did there’s. Is it A chain driven to there one-way? Do they have A bearing mounted in there cover? They will not answer any of these questions simply because they want to sell the kit only and not parts. Witch I don’t blame them. Thanks if anyone could help.

[Todd Kageals]

Kerry,

I’m going to agree with you on both counts.  Even though our starter is not on-board, the electric starter and my electric kart lift are definitely the best investments we have made.  We don’t lift the karts a single time, the lift even gets them on and off the trailer!  The starter makes life so much easier that I don’t dread all the work.  Dad stalled at the start of the last race and was able to jump out and restart the kart in a few seconds with the kart on the ground.  Saved his race.  Really, the drill works just as well for us as the Hagar would because we are not allowed to restart the kart on track anyway.

[Todd Kageals]

Here’s a video of the starter in action.  If I were doing this again, I would just use the nut above instead of building the adapter.  The only downside is that it would require a much larger hole in the seat.

CR125 Kart Electric Starter: https://youtu.be/MndnNvXrmwY

 

[Cory-Milne]

a properly jetted cr125 is easy to start also START your kart before you get on grid!!!!  Save yourself the money and learn to bump start your kart

[Todd Kageals]

That’s not the way it works for road racing Cory.   At least not where we typically run.  Everyone starts their karts on the stands then lowers them to the ground right in their grid spot.  Most guys use a strap on the wheel or just spin the rear tires by hand.  That’s all well and good when it starts right up but that’s not always the case for our karts (for sure jetted too rich most of the time).  It’s also a function of being close to 50 as opposed to close to 20 (which if I remember correctly, that’s about where you are)!  I know that because I am pretty sure I am driving your old kart.  Your dad sold it to me a few years back.

[David Flori]

Hey Todd, would you please share the part number and perhaps the source for the one way bearing?

I have a friend that has been trying to do this, and the bearings he uses are woefully under rated.

Thank you!

[Mark Traylor]

David,
Do a google search for Sprag Clutch. Formsprag, Torrington, CSK are a few manufacturers. One way bearing is not really an accurate description. I use Fromsprag in helicopter transmissions.

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