On my kart ( arrow x2-cik) and it appears to be consistent on other karts, there are two screw with springs on both sides of the caliper. Can I use these to adjust brake pad clearance or is the preferred way to use shims?
Those are the pad return springs/bolts. They must stay tight to ensure the pad is retracted from the rotor, after releasing the Brake. The only way to adjust is to shim on that style caliper.
Thanks Steve, I took the pads off and see how that works now. I’m still searching for better braking. I added the .5m shims and adjusted brake line to middle hole on peddle. Still not to my liking. Will bleed brakes next. Can I use the same Motul 600 used in my car or are karts fluid different. Also are there any recommended pads?
Trace, what type of feel are you looking for? When you say you went to the middle hole on the pedal, was it at the bottom or top previously? Where is the rod connected on the master? The arm in the master often has two holes to attach the brake rod. The top hole giving more leverage to get more master cylinder pressure with the same pedal pressure, but you’ll have more pedal travel. How much pad is left? It may be time for new pads altogether.
I moved from the top to the middle hole on the pedal. I do see on the master cylinder I am at the top hole and there is one below to move to. My brake pads are about 10mm thick and I have about 2mm clearance on the rotar.
I’m looking for more bite. At my track on the straights I am braking from about 55mph. I pretty much have to stand on the brakes. They do stop me but I never get to a point where I feel the back end is going to wash out. I notice that Arrow has a softer set of pads that I am going to try. Also will bleed the brakes.
I just bought the kart in April used but it is a 2013 and supposedly only used a couple times. I have done two races and about four practice sessions.
Thanks for your help.
if there is a bottom hole on the pedal it will give you more leverage. Does it look like your pads are wearing evenly? If not your caliper hanger might be welded out of square or bent. In that case new pads will make the problem worse. Is your disk the thin steel kind or vented? it might be getting over heated. That will give you brake fade after a few laps. brake fluid should be either mineral oil (dot3) or synthetic (dot5), make sure you know which before you melt your seals. Usually most take dot3. Bleed your brakes after every track day enough to get fresh fluid through the whole system.
Hope that helps,
FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
41 years karting experience
as Walt said, dropping to a lower hole on the pedal will give you more leverage. But I would recommend not lowering the rod on the caliper end….leave it in the top hole there. Have you run in the rain at all? Or somehow got a lubricant on the pad or the disk? The last time I didn’t like the way my pedal fealt, I pulled the pads, and scuffed the surface ever so slightly on a VERY flat surface with emery paper, and then wire wheeled the rotors lightly just enough to clean off any glazing, and it helped tremendously. Some people may say nit to do this but it helped me.
I have not run in the rain yet but somewhat look forward to. I did notice my pads had a bit of extra of extra material on the outer edges and sanded down. I will not be running again for a couple weeks but look forward to the recommendations you all gave.