Home Forums Chassis & Handling Alignment change from stand to ground

This topic contains 9 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  Paul Kish 4 years, 2 months ago.

  • Author
    Posts
  • #35713

    Tom Varner
    Participant

    Birel 28 mm chassis for Yamaha Junior –

    on the stand with snipers – toe out 2 mm Camber 4 mm positive

    on the ground with driver 310 lbs total weight- toe goes to 4 mm toe in – a 6 mm change

    camber goes to 4 mm neg – a 8 mm change –

    This seems like a lot of change –
    I would think you would want to set the alignment with the kart on the ground – because that is what the chassis actually sees

    any thoughts >

  • #35723

    Morgan Schuler
    Participant

    This explains it a lot better than I can type it: http://kracer.com.au/blog/kart-setup-nitty-gritty/alignments-dynamic-or-static

    • #35804

      brian downing
      Participant

      Morgan,
      Thanks for that link, excellent reasoning!
      And static measuring is consistent. Think of all the variables taken out of the equation when making static measurement.
      Then one can increase/decrease relative to baseline as needed.

  • #35725

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Tom

    How old is the chassis? Are your king pins ok? Are your spindle bearings good, and with no play?

    Any signs of wear at your tie rod ends’ himes joints?

    Your chassis should normally see changes or increments of 2 at any direction

    I would totally set it up at 4 and 4, and that should be pretty good.

     

    Please explain how you’re setting it on the ground, or on a jig, or table,and taking measurements?

    Where are you setting the kart on? Remember that it has to flex, and roll, so that it’s not on a bind, plus where is the driver siting on? Make sure your driver is sitting down correctly, with his/her legs fully extended.

    If no matter what you do, you’re still getting 6mm in increments, then there is something seriously wrong with the chassis, or loose/worn out components.

  • #35761

    Tim Koyen
    Participant

    Tom,

    There is nothing wrong with how you are setting it.  Today’s soft chassis will get a huge change from the stand to the ground (especially a 28mm at the weight you’re running).  Its all relative.  On the stand or on the ground, you’re still making an adjustment relative to where you were before.  Some people make all their adjustments with the kart on the scales.  Nothing wrong with that either, if that’s how you always do it.  If you’re going to set it on the ground, the surface needs to be perfectly flat, which is why they do it on the scales (they can also see the weight changes as well).  Just don’t set it on the pit road and assume its flat…its not.  Small changes in level when the kart is loaded can make a big change in caster/camber and weights.

    KartLift Kart Stands
    DeepSeat Kart Seats
    877-777-8020
    ------------------
    Don't bother PMing me, it doesn't work. Email is best: tim@kartlift.com.

  • #35984

    Tom Varner
    Participant

    So does the chassis need to be level on the stand as well to get an accurate reading?

  • #36028

    Tim Koyen
    Participant

    Tom,

    I’ve never found that to be a concern, as the front of the kart just “hangs” free on most stands.

    KartLift Kart Stands
    DeepSeat Kart Seats
    877-777-8020
    ------------------
    Don't bother PMing me, it doesn't work. Email is best: tim@kartlift.com.

  • #36466

    jack lachut
    Participant

    tim,  I had the same question as tom , does the chassis have to be level on the stand?  I’ve asked people at the track and they said no, that it didn’t need to be level on the stand to do the alignment.  when I do my alignments at home I always level the kart before starting the alignment. I’m using the sniper v2 inox setup.  if I were to lean on the kart that would upset the laser on the grids.

    thanks

  • #36467

    jack lachut
    Participant

     

     

  • #37192

    Paul Kish
    Participant

    You take your kart to the track “baselined” or at the track you put it to what ever “baseline” you use.  You can baseline your kart to your best guess starting point, either on or off the stand.  You can do it either way so long as the results are the same every time.  If results change when your baselining, either something got bent, worn out.

    After that it’s all about making changes to fix on track problems.  If you going to make a mechanical change logically needed to try to fix an on track problem, it isn’t going to make any difference weather you make the change on the stand, on the ground and weather the driver is in or out of the kart.  That is so long as you can isolate what ever mechanical change your making, from outside influence.  That means if your going to change something at the right front corner, put something under the right front corner so there  will not be any binds on what your mechanically doing.  Putting the kart on the stand will help keep outside influences from effecting your mechanical doings.   It’s about how good a mechanic you are when you make the change and what mechanical considerations you automatically include when you work on things mechanical.

     

    In a nut shell, it doesn’t matter one bit so long as your not a poorly skilled sloppy mechanic.

    Brake, Insert 'arc', Turn, Accelerate

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.