Home Forums Briggs & Stratton 4-Cycle Racing Briggs LO206 08 OTK TAG chassis, cannot make it work

Viewing 42 reply threads
  • Author
    Posts
    • #46512
      andy graham
      Participant

      Bought into this whole 206 thing thinking that it would be a good transition for my son from cadets to full sized chassis, with all the pitch of “ease of use…” and “…bring back the fun in karting…”, I thought it would be a good move, especially since we dont drive much and we want to try some local racing, thought this would slow things down and let him concentrate more and grow some confidence.

      I can report that this entire experience of trying to fit an LO206 on an old (2008) kosmic TAG chassis has been nothing short of a long, frustrating and expensive endeavor.   I was foolish to think that anything in this sport is as easy as this sounded — “….just dig out that old sprint kart, get yourself a mount and an engine package and you’ll be track ready in no time!…” I’ve found that not to be the case, I should’ve known nothing in karting is “that” easy.  I’ve had a few suggest “re-fabbing” by removing the driver side seat strut and reattaching it to the frame.  I’m not ready to spend money on an old chassis to cut and weld on  that’s nearly 10 years old…I’ve purchased 4 different mounts(including the one recommended by B&S) and 3 different clutches, none will work correctly, or I should say fit with correct offset and have proper sprocket alignment….I’m using a #1 OTK seat made for an OTK chassis, with the seat installed exactly to OTK specs…something is in the way or a problem no matter what — get the sprockets lined up and the motor is too far off set, get a new mount to give it less off set, now the chain hits the seat strut and the screw in the end of the crank rubs the seat, or bearing carrier is in the way, or the frame rail, and on, and on, and on…tried every clutch both inboard and outboard, nothing…..biggest disappointment so far in my short karting tenure….think I stick with the 2 stokes, less stress…:-/

      So Caveat Emptor my friends…do your home work before you commit, it’ll save you time, aggravation and cash…..alright, the armour is on, fire away! :-)

    • #46513
      Dan Brown
      Participant

      We too looked into possibly running 4 cycles this season as one local track uses them almost exclusively. We found out the same thing that you did, if the chassis isn’t specifically designed for a 4 cycle/inboard clutch arrangement , it isn’t going to fit properly. My Tony Kart Racer was a no go, our Margay Bravas are the same way. I thought it would be an inexpensive alternative to running kt100’s, but if I have to buy everything new then it just made no sense to me, so we are racing the 2 cycles again. Sorry about your expensive lesson, hopefully by posting it here others will learn from it.

      Dan

    • #46516
      andy graham
      Participant

      I was beginning to think I was the only one, Dan.  Thanks for the response, lots of adversity in 2 stroke racing right now, but we’ll be sticking with what we’ve got rather than getting in too deep with this B&S thing….somewhere, Rube Goldberg is smiling…

       

    • #46522
      Tom Petalino
      Participant

      Andy, sorry to hear you had so much trouble getting the 206 mounted. I purchased mine from conlin speedsports in ohio. motor came already to go with clutch ,mount , complete. mounted it on an old birel  2008 ry 30 sprint chassis.  Had no problems. Took about an hour to remove the axle to get the sprocket on the inside of the bearings. other than that, it bolted right on.

    • #46525
      Bernie Lacotta
      Participant

      I have put LO206 and WF engines on just about every popular and some not so popular karts out there. There are idiosyncrasies for sure but with a little patience and above all research most issues are easily solved.

      Biggest headache is the crossmember on some ( mostly older, pre-2005 ) models interfere with chain/axle sprocket. I’ve moved quite a few crossmembers at minimal cost.

    • #46527
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Andy, I know it’s a bit tough but stick with it.  Pull the seat and move the seat supports over 1/4 – 1/2″ with a big rubber hammer–or whatever big heavy tough thing you have laying around.  That should allow the clutch to clear.  You could also cut off the left side seat support and use a bolt on model, which would give you more options still.

      We’ve mounted a Pro Gas Animal (same dimensions as a 206) on a TopKart Cadet, now that was tight.  We had a 206 on a 2007 Intrepid, and we’re planning on putting one on a TopKart 102.  So far I haven’t seen any show stopping problems.

      It’s going to be tight, but look a little harder at possible solutions.

      Hope that helps,

      Clark Sr.

    • #46530
      Gary Lawson
      Participant

      “The motor is too far offset.”

      Says who? The karts that have welded on struts will need the engine offset pretty far. It will run just fine. I’ve run with my clutch outboard and offset a bunch to get proper clearance for the strut and third bearing. Getting them fitted isn’t that difficult if you have the right equipment and talk to the right people.

    • #46557
      James Frantz
      Participant

      Something strikes me as being a little fishy here but i’ll temporarily ignore my suspicions and bite. It’s pretty simple to cut off a welded on seat strut and use a BOLT ON universal seat strut that can be moved a couple of inches to accommodate the engine and clutch. Any adjustable motor mount will give you the ability to move the engine to the right for seat clearance. If that doesn’t give you enough then cut the other seat strut off, move the seat a little to the left and use a universal seat strut on the left side also. Problem solved. Cost of 2 seat struts $30.00.

      Every day more people are leaving their clone engines in favor of the LO 206. I talk to people almost every day that are also leaving the 2 stroke world and switching to the LO 206. Could it be that some in the 2 cycle industry see the LO 206 as a threat to their business also. Naaaa, that would never happen. HMMMM

    • #46567
      andy graham
      Participant

      Ha, really?  So you think I’m an industry insider who’s posted this as an attempt to throw a wrench in a nationally growing program….wow…..Well, I’m not, in fact I’m far from it.  Matter of fact, Jimbo, you and I talked at length when I was first considering getting into the 4 stroke thing.

      We’re not chasing any championships, in fact we’ve (my son and I) never entered an event.  We’re just some regular people who got into karting a few years ago when I decided I couldnt ride mx anymore and was looking for something to fill the speed fix that mx provided me…..with a public park/sprint track in our home town, we thought it made sense so we decided to give it a try.

      The first kart I bought was an old CRG cadet with a 2002 mini max on it for my son, so we stepped in using the 2 stroke engine that was available to us, and it served us well…now he’s too big for cadet chassis at 12 and needs a full sized roller.   I picked up a friends old chassis (the kosmic mentioned in the first post) about 18 months ago thinking  I could use it for my son when he was ready, hoping that he’d still be interested and we’d still be going driving by that time.

      We never have been able to dedicate enough time to driving, so its strictly been a hobby for both of us over the past few years, and I thought the 206 would be a good transition for him moving from mini max into a full sized chassis.  I’m not downing the program, I’m pointing out that I made the mistake of believing that it (putting one of these engines on a sprint chassis) was just “that” easy, and it’s definitely not, and it takes some serious research or it will cost you, just like anything in karting….a few of you have mentioned cutting and removing or replacing certain parts of the chassis….that’s would ruin any value the chassis has, and I’m not gonna throw money at modifying a nearly 10 yr old chassis, that makes no sense.

      I’ve spoken with a few chassis tuners who have worked with these engines on sprint chassis and they’ve all told me the same thing — “…Sprint kart chassis were never designed to carry those types of engines.  If you start cutting and moving things, you’ll change the handling characteristics of the kart.  If you want to run a 206, its best to buy a chassis that is designed for it, that way the balance of weight from right to left will be more consistent.  And I can assure you(as one tuner told me), there’s no chassis designer/engineer at OTK that’s thinking about a Briggs 206 on the chassis they’re designing.”  That comes straight from the mouths of respected tuners who’s names I’ll leave out of this since they need not be dragged into it.  And thinking about it, I recall watching the FWT last year at Orlando and seeing a PSL backed CRG kart walking away from the field in Briggs 206 class, looked like he had the entire field out gunned…turned out he was running a CRG chassis made specifically for the 206…that’s a drivers track, and the chassis really shined against the field there.

      As for offset, Briggs states that if the engine is offset more than 3/4″, it increases vibration in the head by as much or more than 20%, putting excessive, premature wear on the engine.  That’s straight from Briggs, not me.  Had a guy from KartSport in Mooresville tell me that they use the burris jackshaft mount on the arrow sprint chassis, but they really try to steer customers towards the arrow 4s chassis that’s designed for a 4 stroke engine…I’m pretty sure they know their stuff when it comes to the LO206 program, and I’m not about to buy a new chassis to make this “work.”

      I hold no grudges, just hate that I’m this deeply invested and have realistically made no progress.  I was ready to throw wrenches the other night, turned around to take a deep breath and calm down, looked up, and there was that mini max sitting on the shelf staring at me.  Then I realized — I could have that thing on this chassis and ready to go in Jr form in about 30 minutes, what am I doing here?!….true story

    • #46570
      andy graham
      Participant

      and hey Jimbo — I have one of your motors I was hoping to run, I’ve heard you do a nice job of setting them up and getting them competitive

    • #46576
      Gary Lawson
      Participant

      Just offset the motor and run it.

    • #46579
      andy graham
      Participant

      Gary, I appreciate you’re willingness to help, however between the 4 motor mounts I have — a burris, a mega mount, an expensive odenthal and a cheap aluminum one off of ebay — and the three clutches I have — a Noram, a Max Torque and a Premier– nothing will align properly….with the clutch inboard the third bearing carrier is in the way and I dont want to start cutting off  chassis pieces.  With the clutch outboard the chain rubs the drivers right seat strut, BAD….damned no matter what I try…..I’ve thrown too much $$$ at this project already, I think it’s just time to retire it and move on….let it be some else’s headache….anybody looking for a 206?

    • #46580
      James Frantz
      Participant

      I guess you should have called me.

      If you want the best then yes you should have a chassis designed for a 4 stroke. But if you are using and 08 2 cycle chassis i guess you aren’t striving for the best of the best. Many chassis have bolt on seat struts and they work just great.  If you have to move the motor off to the right a lot there is a motor mount for that purpose now. In fact if it helps you out i’ll take one of your NEW motor mounts you bought in exchange for one of mine. No charge.

    • #46581
      andy graham
      Participant

      actually Jimbo, we did talk at length when I was considering getting into this ;-)…as for the mount, again, according to the article on this website about the 16 things LO206 owners need to know, it clearly says more than 3/4″ offset motor is no good…how do you just blow off the manufacturer’s warnings?

      As for the chassis, you’re right, we’re not “striving for the best of the best.”  If we were, I wouldn’t be posting this, I wouldve just bought a chassis built for this type of power plant, but I dont have that kind of expendable budget and have other family needs that are higher on the priority list than a 4 stroke specific chassis.   We’re just chasing some good memories not championships and trophies, and trying to use what we have…..I thought that’s what this program was all about — getting those old karts out of mothballs and back to the track, not being, “the best of the best.”….guess I was wrong….

    • #46582
      steve vermeer
      Participant

      I have both an ’07 arrow and a ’06 birel and I can say the problems of mounting a 206 take some time.I have removed the third bearing carrier and a bit of the frame for more room, tweaked the seat struts,and I’m able to get me AND my XL seat in both! As far as affecting the karts handling, they are faster than I am and I’ve got a lot of catching up to do.Smiles per gallon.

    • #46583
      andy graham
      Participant

      Exactly Steve, how much will that chassis be worth after you’ve cut on it?  Right now the kosmic I have has some value, albeit not a bunch, but it would be worthless if I started cutting and grinding on it…dont want to do that, and damn sure don’t want to put more $ into an almost 10 yr old chassis.

       

    • #46586
      Gary Lawson
      Participant

      Where there’s a will, there’s a way.

      Or just quit.

      It can be done without modifications. And I don’t care what the manufacturer recommends. No disrespect to them. I’ve run with 3″ offset to gain clearance with no issue. the manufacturers give a recommendation on things to try to avoid POTENTIAL issues. Anyway if you actually want help let me know. Otherwise just quit talking about it and sell it because that’s what it sounds like you want to do. The sky isn’t falling chicken little…

    • #46588
      Ron Towles
      Participant

      Andy, I just put a Junior LO206 on a cadet kart. Pain in the A$$ but can be done with patience. Luckily, the cadet kart never came with a welded right seat strut. Used a clamp on strut instead. Did not even use the left hand welded strut either. Just used another clamp on strut. Why don’t you bring it by my house and let me look at it. I might come up with some ideas and as you know, I’m quite familiar with both Kosmic karts and the Briggs engines/components.

    • #46592
      steve vermeer
      Participant

      The chassis is not worth a penny LESS than it was before! In fact it probably increased in value with the 206 on it! There’s almost no place to race a tag or 2 cycle kart in my area so they’re a dime a dozen.

    • #46594
      steve vermeer
      Participant

      Have another big fella in my area who races a kosmic with a world formula on it. He said the install wasn’t bad at all. Call him 612 724 3697, ask for Mark if you are really interested in doing this, otherwise as Gary said, stop whining..

    • #46603
      andy graham
      Participant

      Thanks Mr T, I was really hoping you’d see this post….I’ll pm you my phone # and you can call me about where you’re at over at the Beach. …always wondered why there were not many if any 4 stroke sprint chassis at the track….think I found out why….and true, if anybody knows kosmics and Briggs, its you….how’s Corey’s wrists coming along?

      And appreciate the offer once again Gary, I’ll pm you with some details of what I’ve got and where I’m at….I think you hear the frustration, and it’s an ego killer to just quit a project for me…but like you said, might be where I’m at, so quit the whine and cheese party and move on.

    • #46605
      Rob Kozakowski
      Participant

      Andy, put things back into perspective, and enjoy the LO206… I swear, they’re a lot of fun as soon as you get it on the track.

      1)  You’ve already said you’re on a budget.  So, I’m assuming the reason you have an ’08 Kosmic is because it was cheaper.  Why was it cheaper?  Because It has no real value as a TAG kart anymore because it’s too old for the TAG guys. So what value are you really hurting by modifying it for 4-cycle racing?  I’d agree with Steve… it might actually have more value now… it’s only real value today is as a 4-cycle or starter kart anyways.

      2) Listen to Gary.  He’s got more knowledge and experience than just about anyone here.  Don’t worry too much about the offset.  Briggs has to warn us about the potential problems – cover your ass.  The good news is that the engine is detuned to only turn 6100 rpm… the reality is you won’t hurt it. Or take up Jim’s offer on the mount.

      3) You’re doing this for fun.  If the seat placement is off a little, don’t sweat it.  If a 4-cycle chassis is a bit faster, don’t sweat it.  Just have fun.

      I’ve seen LO206’s on a huge variety of karts… with and without mods.  The newer OTK Racers will definitely work, and can be fast, without any mods.

    • #46615
      James Frantz
      Participant

      Yes

      Now i remember talking to you. That seems like it was a long time ago. I don’t remember talking about any issues with mounting the LO 206 on your chassis.

      I was at a race in Phoenix (4 cycle showdown) last fall and i believe the guy that won the WF race was on a Kosmic chassis. I don’t know which one but my guess it wasn’t made specifically for a WF

      It sounds to me like the whole issue is that the seat strut is in the way. That’s not unusual. I’ve seen it may times. If you don’t want to remove it then i guess you are out of luck but please don’t discourage others from getting into the LO 206 because you don’t want to take anyones advise.

      How about this? Cut the seat strut off about an inch up from the chassis.  If you ever want to put it back the way it was you can simply machine a piece or smaller tubing to fit inside the stub on the frame and the other end into the strut you cut off. A little weld and your back in business with a 2 stroke if you so desire.

      Chassis are just a piece of steel for crying out loud. It’s not like you are cutting off your right arm.

      It’s 10 years old so i don’t think you are going to loose any money on it. On the contrary with the 206 on it it will be an easy sell.

    • #46620
      David Meade
      Participant

      We have mounted 4 strokes on every chassis out there, the OTK racer included, 2005 model. Remove the strut, bolt one on, if you want to use it for 2 stroke guess what you have a bolt on strut instead of a welded on strut, the engine will never know. As far as 3/4 in overhang we have ran this same engine 4 years going into our 5th, it overhangs the mount 3/4″ plus, Briggs gave information not a warning. These engines are mounted on cadet chassis here at our club probably a dozen or so, it can be done.

       

    • #46660
      George Young
      Participant

      WOW!! I’m more of a problem solver. I like what Gary Lawson has said. Offset the darn thing!! I use a ton of offset on my OTK racer chassis and haven’t had one problem yet! I also offset the seat to the drivers left about 15mm and can set the chassis up to slay the competition. We ran the Syd White Memorial race this year and won in senior WF ( same block and footprint as the LO206) some of the last few laps were as fast as the first few. Just tonight Iwas arguing about the offset on a 2014 EVK Racer with my son. We need to offset it an additional 3/8″ over the EVRR and another EVR we built. I’ve built 4 OTK racers so far and all regularly occupy the podium at our track. These are not gimme races we race against the Agan family and Tyler has been running four cycles for over 11 years. He’s a national champion and one tough competitor. Go kart racing is a battle of solutions. It’s not just driving as you’ve found out. Setup (initial assembly) strategy and driving. Maybe more respect for the guys that look at the problem, solve it and go on to figure out how to win! Come on man — step up– if for nothing else your sons respect in persevering. Not everything in racing is “bolt on” or parts hanging.

    • #46665
      Steve Baker
      Participant

      and the 4 cycle guys should be looking at this as a good problem to have………..it means more racers are leaving 2 cycle to go 4 cycle racing………..!

    • #46666
      Rick Brown
      Participant

      I can’t believe this is such an issue.  We have 20+ 4 cycle karts all brands, new and old. I don’t know of any one thats had such a problem? I run an offset motor mount with a world formula (same block) absolutely no issues.

    • #46667
      Clark Gaynor Sr.
      Participant

      Hold on there Steve, we’re allowed to do both, right??!!:)

      We actually road race Leopards with the WKA / WKC, AND sprint race a Sportsman Pro Gas (from BRE by the way) and LO206 locally.  But I will say the appeal of the 206 is undeniable.  Simplicity at it’s best!!!!

      Clark Sr.

    • #46668
      Rick Brown
      Participant

      I’ll give you $300 for the 206 today!

    • #46680
      steve vermeer
      Participant

      $350 and I’ll pay shipping…

    • #46684
      andy graham
      Participant

      do I hear $450?……

    • #46688
      Rick Brown
      Participant

      $375 +shipping!

    • #46692
      Troy Berry
      Participant

      I have a 206 on an 08 Intrepid Cruiser Tag chasis. I use the Triple T mount from Innovative Karting:

      http://www.innovativekarting.com/engines.htm

      This mount is awesome. I have to use about a 3/4 inch offset, but the mount is solid and does not cause vibration or twisting. I’m guessing it’s because the Base plates are a little thicker, as is recommended by B&S.  And the bonus is, it’s adjustable from the top and super easy to get the chain right. I just clear the seat strut with the drive gear toward the seat. Otherwise my third bearing hanger would not allow a motor side drive gear. It’s an awesome and easy package. My kid loves to drive it!

      "The Art is in the details"
      BirelArt AM29 LO206
      Intrepid Cruiser KA 100

    • #46693
      Finch Guenther
      Participant

      +1 to what troy said. Have had the Triple T mount on every kart I’ve had from WF to Kpv. Best on the market IMO.

      Finch Guenther

      #51 CRG KPV

    • #46694
      steve vermeer
      Participant

      $400 !

    • #46700
      James Frantz
      Participant

      I don’t want to continue to stir the pot and in any way pick on Andy but my original reply was kind of a  knee jerk conditioned responce caused by years of dealing with people from the dark side posting negative things about the LO 206 and Briggs on another forum. In fact i apologize to Andy and everyone else for bringing that mind set to this post. I am normally not a conspiracy nut job.

      This information was not available until just recently. Especially the info about the thicker motor mounts. <span style=”color: #000000; font-family: Helvetica, ‘Helvetica Neue’, Arial; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;”>-Here’s what Briggs recommends: Please take note of the information in Bold.</span>

      <span style=”color: #000000; font-family: Helvetica, ‘Helvetica Neue’, Arial; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;”>Engine mounts – Just because a mount allows for additional engine offset does NOT mean you should do it! Excessive offset and the use of a thin aluminum base plate (typically machined to save a few grams further reducing strength) amplify vibration throughout the engine and system. It will also impact fuel metering as vibration agitates fuel (hint, hint).</span>
      <p style=”margin: 1em 0px; color: #000000; text-shadow: #ffffff 1px 1px; font-family: Helvetica, ‘Helvetica Neue’, Arial; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;”>o Install the engine with no more than a ¾ inch offset. When a ‘typical’ ½ inch plate is used and offset beyond this, strain gauge tests shows up to a 20% increase in vibration measured at the valve cover. This is a TREMDOUS amount of additional vibration and does not take into account any common contributing sources of vibration (track surface, tire balance, bent axles, etc.). Vibration accelerates fatigue.</p>
      <p style=”margin: 1em 0px; color: #000000; text-shadow: #ffffff 1px 1px; font-family: Helvetica, ‘Helvetica Neue’, Arial; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;”>o Use a QUALITY mount. The BEST on the market is the Odenthal mount. It allows for greater offset without sacrificing rigidity. Another system would be the PMI engine mount with the ¾” engine plate verses the standard ½” plate.</p>

    • #46723
      steve vermeer
      Participant

      Me too Jim, I find myself a little “cranky” sometimes..

    • #46747
      andy graham
      Participant

      http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAyNFg1NzY=/z/FeEAAOSwrklVCDYQ/$_27.JPG

      This is the CRG 4 stroke specific chassis…notice the frame design and seat strut.  I saw a PSL backed driver pilot this chassis with the 206 at the FWT 2014 at Orlando, known as a “drivers track”.  Howd he do? he lapped the field in every race.

    • #46752
      Bernie Lacotta
      Participant

      That seat strut greatly limits engine placement/mounting fore and aft. I’ve never seen one like that and can’t believe it came from a frame mfr. Not saying I’ve seen all but that’s a terrible design.

    • #46753
      Bernie Lacotta
      Participant

      After studying the pic it looks like it can be reversed or flipped and mount to the angled crossmember behind seat. That makes sense. Where it is mounted in pic is not very smart.

    • #46754
      andy graham
      Participant

      yes you’re right, the seat strut is definitely not gonna work after looking closer…I’d bet it mounts to that chassis rail under that runs under the axle….as I understand, the chassis was never homologated and was only available in Canada…but I promise ya, the guy was flyin around Orlando circuit on it.

       

    • #46812
      Troy Berry
      Participant

      The CRG RS5 has been around for a few years.

      http://eknclassic.com/news_info.php?n=17247&sid=c95170ce47931cbacf79ef6056f5aac5

      Here’s another pic with a 206

      http://www.kartingclassifieds.com/ads/crg-rs5-2014-4-stroke-racing-kart/#.VTsfiCFVhBc

       

      There are a couple of them at our track. They are pretty nice karts with the Lo206. I heard that since PSL is no longer the CRG distributor, CRG USA is going to  make it available with a different name.

      "The Art is in the details"
      BirelArt AM29 LO206
      Intrepid Cruiser KA 100

    • #60125
      Ronald Salas
      Participant

      hey andy
      i had to jump into this topic since i just re-entered kart racing after about a 20 year absence… i was and always will be a 4 stroke karter… all the positive things they say about it are true!… i will cut and paste the two comments i made on another subject of balance… i was fortunate enough to research and do my homework by asking a lot of questions on different karts and looking a a lot of pictures on the internet… i ended up buying two Birels (2013 R30 CY and a 2011 R28 cadet)… on the cadet i had to cut just the permanently mounted seat struts and buy some moveable ones (old school).. the other i made sure the kart had an offset seat already (my guess is european kart manufacturers are realizing the other half of karting is 4 stroke!)… i hope you don’t give up and maybe count that chassis as a learning experience…

      Hey David
      I also recently purchased, for me and my oldest son of 14 years, a Birel 2013 R30-CY that seems to have the permanent seat struts already off set to fit a 4 stroke (Hondas/clones and Briggs use the same bolt pattern and are very similar in size)… On my other sons, of 10 years, I purchased a cadet Birel 2011 R28, which I cut the permanent seat struts off (were not offset) and found some good moveable seat struts (old school/they way they were done in the past) to offset the seat to the left to fit the motor (any 4 stroke)… you want to make sure you get a good fully adjustable 1/2 inch thick billet aluminum motor mount first… I found one on ebay that is 10 degrees for wheel clearance, seat clearance (look for a narrow simple chain guard too) and chain/sprocket clearance on the back cross member that are now angled (unlike the older chassis in the past that were straight) this makes for a tight fit since all 4 strokes are inboard driven… you don”t want to offset the motor too much (overhang the motor rails) like I see on a lot of karts because of motor vibration, weight balance (your concern!) and chassis flex!… this has been a very big learning curve and experience for me too for the last nine months since I haven’t raced since the 90’s… call me if you would like (Ill send you pics of the mount and struts/chain guard/finished cadet kart) and for more info on where I got the mount and seat struts because I am/was in the same boat your in…

      Ron Salas
      915.478.8482

      hey david!
      don’t offset seat too much because you wont have too… on the 2011 Birel C28 R cadet kart, at the most i offset seat (size small) was two inches (no where near six inches?!?) more than where the permanent seat mounts were… i was able to place all the load on both rails with no overhang of the engine (with the !/2″ thick billet aluminum fully adjustable front to back side to side mount i recommended… about $120 and money well spent!)… you don’t want the engine to overhang due to vibration from the motor and the springboard effect it will have but– you will definitely still require chain/clutch/sprocket clearance since four strokes are inboard driven… the 2013 Birel R30 CY as mentioned before had the seat permanently offset about by (once again) two inches… i had plenty of clearance with about an inch to spare (before clutch touches large size seat)… motor is not dead center on rails but probably overhangs about less than an inch… after all this is done you can now move the seat (with karter in it) or motor front to back to reach a proper balance (as we use to do old school in the 80’s/90″s)… best of luck
      ron

      nothing better than a day at the races except maybe two!…

Viewing 42 reply threads
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.