I don’t have 1˚ or 2˚ pills, but they can be useful. I have found that adjusting in 3˚ increments with the standard factory pills works fine for me though.
As far as setup tips for either the 401 or EVRR, take it out of the box, assemble it, and don’t touch it… for the most part. Make sure the seat is in placed per manufacturer settings and set up everything else neutral and it should at least be close in competitiveness.
We always start here:
– Flat front torsion bar
– 1 big spacer for front track width
– Neutral caster, neutral camber
– N axle
– 3rd bearing loose
– 1390mm rear track width
– 1 or 2 seat struts per side
– Loose side pods, loose rear bumper
– Medium rear hubs
Always make small adjustments. The OTK chassis is built to be very tunable and easy to find the sweet spot. Neutral baseline setup works 90% of the time if you aren’t doing national level racing.
Glad to help! It helps me learn to teach as well.
Thanks again!! it looks like my notes matches what your “baseline” is. Did you guys notice a big difference between 401 and EVRR. Just getting into OTK from Birel, any hints on how to make the brakes have a tad more “bite” (some have suggested EBC Green pads, while others say to do the larger rotor, but I am only running F100 and wt limit is 360# and the larger rotor is overkill).