Camber/caster on cars vs. karts can be very different in what you’re trying to achieve. Remember that with a live axle, the kart has to lift the inside rear, so with a bunch of negative camber, you risk overheating the front tires, reducing caster too much, and binding the chassis up.
Basically, as a starting point, you want a little toe-out, neutral caster, neutral camber. Keep in mind the kart already has caster and camber built into the frame. The yokes aren’t straight up and down.
For a bit more front turn-in and lifting action, increase caster. To help the front tires come on quicker, a bit of negative camber can help. Also, when you start putting camber in, you are taking a bit of caster out since the adjustment pills are eccentrics and caster/camber aren’t independent. So a little negative camber can help settle the rear down if you are getting too quick of a turn-in.
Just getting back into it, I’d recommend really focusing on driving firstly. Once you’re within half a second of the front runners then you should look at setup. A good driver should be able to get within .5-.8 of the leaders on a baseline factory setup, before messing with adjustments.