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Scott Heavin
Joined: 18 Oct 2006 Posts: 1766 Location: United States, Indiana, New Castle
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Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:37 am Post subject: |
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| John Matthews wrote: | Hi Steve,
Test? I didn't know there was a test
I've seen the problem described many times and various things have fixed it including removing and replacing the sprocket. However, Dick indicated that this is a used kart so I'm guessing he has no idea how long the chain has been in service. He also kept posting after Pete's answer so maybe he still needs help....
IMHO, chains and sprockets are expendable parts and the new guys who come on here to ask questions about them should always be instructed to carry spares. If you don't have them you can't eliminate them as possible sources of your problem (one of the basic procedures in any troubleshooting tree). It might also be that Jim is correct and he just had the chain too tight.
The best thing about this forum is that someone can tap into literally hundreds of years of experience just by typing a question. I do sometimes get the answer wrong, kinda hard to have 100% sucess when you're not looking at the problem with you own eyes but hopefully everyone here agrees that carrying an extra chain is a good idea for kart racing
Cheers, |
I've got to agree with John here. When I was first having this problem, everone looking at it told me 'your carrier is bent', 'your axle is bent', 'your carrier is off center', 'sprocket is not centered', 'motor is crooked' and on and on. Nobody told me to try a new chain. It was the chain and chain only. New chain=problem solved. I'm a complete noob, but now that I know what happens when chains stretch, it would be the first place I would look.
Oh-and someone said try marking the tire / sprocket at the tight spot. Give it a whirl. If the tight spot indexes in a different spot every time, it's your chain. _________________ Spec TaG Masters @ NCMP / #23 |
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Bernie Baldus
Joined: 08 Sep 2003 Posts: 260 Location: United States, Kansas,
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Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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I agree with Marshall and John.
Try a different sprocket and/or chain. Chains stretch and don't match the sprocket. Sprockets wear out. Particularly with TaG. Running 0-ring chain will promote life of both.
If your axle turns over fine before the motor is tightened, the chain is probably gaining tension when you tighten the motor.
This is common.
It happens to me daily, I loosen it back up and slide the motor back until the chain is right when the motor is tight.
On a Leopard, I run it loose enough that it won't quite flop up and hit the chain guard. 3/4-1" sounds about right. I also wiggle the chain sideways to see what kind of play that chain has and factor that into the equation.
Remember, the chain, as it heats up over the course of a race, will tighten up anyway. As long as you don't hang wheels off regularly, you can run it fairly loose without a problem and it will certainly make the kart freer throughout the event.
If these simple things don't work, then you have something bent or crooked.
ps.
Sometimes eye balling sprocket is difficult. Watch where the chain runs on the sprocket and see if the gap is the same on both side of the sprocket. |
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Craig Vesely
Joined: 24 Feb 2005 Posts: 3 Location: United States, Wisconsin, Barneveld
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Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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| jim wirtz wrote: | | to check if this senario is correct, place your motor on the frame and see if you can rock it at all on the rails. there should be NO rocking at all. |
So, what should you do if the motor, on the mount, does rock slightly?
Thanks,
Craig |
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Pete Muller Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2001 Posts: 1950 Location: United States, California,
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Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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Fix it.  |
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jim wirtz
Joined: 01 Feb 2004 Posts: 166
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Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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Craig,
Start by making sure there is no debris built up between the tubes and your mount.
We've gone as far as removing all the paint/powdercoat from the area the mount rests on. If your motor still rocks, lay a straight edge across the frame with one side crossing where the mount would be. The straight edge SHOULD touch all three rails, if not, depending on how much its off, you may need to have it straightened.
OR,
It is possible that you could have crushed one or more of the tubes by over tightening the clamps, or even by a particularily hard bottoming out and hitting the clamp.
Both scenarios are fixable with a little effort and some patience.
good luck _________________ Jim Wirtz
http://www.wirtzswoodworks.com/ |
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Craig Vesely
Joined: 24 Feb 2005 Posts: 3 Location: United States, Wisconsin, Barneveld
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Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 4:59 am Post subject: |
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| Pete Muller wrote: | | Fix it. | Thanks Pete! Jim, I will give those a try, thank you. |
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Adam Geczi
Joined: 27 Jul 2012 Posts: 2 Location: United States, California, Torrance
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Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 1:56 am Post subject: Chain Stretch |
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I am writing this post to anyone who is trying to solve chain tension variance issues. I spent several days reading, measuring, and investigating the issue that I had and ended up figuring things out based on the collection of opinions in this thread. While its true that each individual post on this subject can be valuable by itself in trying to solve differing problems, I have reasons to believe that many people are running into the same issue that I was dealing with.
If you observe any of the following;
(a)with the chain tight and the engine mount loose, the engine rocks back and fourth as you spin the rear axle, and/or (b) the sprocket mounted to the axle appears to be eccentric when spun, but you are certain that it is concentric, and/or (c) you can see through between the chain and the sprocket teeth as the chain lifts off the sprocket while being turned at all times or at certain intervals,
than, you are likely to have a chain stretched in part or in whole.
In addition, if the chain is relatively new and it fit well before a few sessions, but now you are experiencing any of the above described symptoms, than you are also likely to have one or both sprocket(s) that is worn and is now contributing to the premature stretching of the chain. This is especially true with a 10 or fewer tooth sprocket on the engine side.
Tip: If you are experiencing tightening of the chain at the same clocking (or spot) of the rear sprocket every time, it is more likely to be an issue of eccentricity caused by a mounting issue to the hub, dirt and grime, bent axle, bent crank or other things described in this thread. However, if the chain tightens up at a different clocking every time as you turn the axle, than your chain is definitely the culprit. You can examine the play in each link to verify. In a partial stretch, you will find that where the chain engages poorly with the teeth on the sprocket, the chain will have a significantly greater play between the links (pins) than elsewhere. If the chain stretch is uniform, than you are less likely to encounter the above symptoms with an exception regrading item (c). If possible, always replace the sprockets when replacing the chain. _________________ Adam Geczi, Skyforce Racing |
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patrick slattery
Joined: 23 Apr 2004 Posts: 787 Location: United States, Ohio, cleves
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Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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| Pete Muller wrote: | There's a good chance that the sprocket is not running dead true on the hub.
Loosen up the bolts a bit that hold the sprocket on, then turn the rear axle. When you get to the tight spot, give the chain a bit of a "squeeze" (one side of the chain to the other) which will tend to pull the sprocket forward. Do that a few times (spin the axle, check for the tight spot, then try to move the sprocket "away" from that tight spot).
If that doesn't do it, then as has been mentioned... you may have a bad sprocket hub, a bent axle, etc.). |
I like Pete's idea, but I just leave the bolts slightly loose with locking nuts on them and that help to find and keep the alignment |
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