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Andersen Venturini
Joined: 27 May 2011
Posts: 39
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 Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 5:21 pm Post subject: KT100 WKA pipe |
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I have tried to find some info on this topic but the search didn't help much. I went through 5-6 pgs w/o success. Hopefully I can find the answer here.
Basically I would like to know the difference in performance for the KT100 from can 4 holes and the WKA RLV pipe. I heard some people talking about 20% increase in performance.
What is the real gain ( power / torque )?
Is there need to increase the stall rpm? How much?
Any change on internal clearances?
Any change on carb setup?
ps.: what is the reaso WKA change the spec?
tks |
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John Wehrheim
Joined: 20 Jul 2001
Posts: 1201
Location: United States, Georgia, Norcross
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| Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 3:32 pm Post subject: Re: KT100 WKA pipe |
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| Andersen Venturini wrote: | I have tried to find some info on this topic but the search didn't help much. I went through 5-6 pgs w/o success. Hopefully I can find the answer here.
Basically I would like to know the difference in performance for the KT100 from can 4 holes and the WKA RLV pipe. I heard some people talking about 20% increase in performance.
What is the real gain ( power / torque )?
Is there need to increase the stall rpm? How much?
Any change on internal clearances?
Any change on carb setup?
ps.: what is the reaso WKA change the spec? tks |
I have had several engine builders tell me 2-2.5 HP gain.
No you do not increase the stall speed, you may find decreasing may help. The pipe has more bottom end torque.
You may find a need to richen the carb
All this depends on how your builder built the motor and carb. Most have found to just bolt it on, richen the carb a bit and go.
The pipe in my opinion is far superior to the can. The reason for the switch was to have the Sr. Class as fast or faster than the Jr Can. |
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Walt Gifford
Joined: 19 Jul 2002
Posts: 4290
Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,
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| Posted: Wed May 08, 2013 11:23 am Post subject: |
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Is there a WKA 4 hole class now or did this pipe replace it? And which pipe is it exactly?
Gif 
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FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001
Yamaha KT100 Service Center
40 years karting experience |
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John Wehrheim
Joined: 20 Jul 2001
Posts: 1201
Location: United States, Georgia, Norcross
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| Posted: Wed May 08, 2013 11:46 am Post subject: |
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| WKA does not have a 4 hole Can class for Sr. in the MFG Cup. Only for Jr's. The new pipe is like an HPV 2 or 3 called SR-Y. |
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Walt Gifford
Joined: 19 Jul 2002
Posts: 4290
Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,
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| Posted: Wed May 08, 2013 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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I just looked it up, almost $300 to convert to that ugly, heavy exhaust system. Why?
Gif
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FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001
Yamaha KT100 Service Center
40 years karting experience |
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John Wehrheim
Joined: 20 Jul 2001
Posts: 1201
Location: United States, Georgia, Norcross
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| Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 4:01 am Post subject: |
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| Walt Gifford wrote: | | I just looked it up, almost $300 to convert to that ugly, heavy exhaust system. Why? Gif |
Personally I like the pipes primarily because they are faster, more torque. In addition, they sound better, a bit quieter and easy on the motor unlike a full pipe. This is a good compromise between the Can and full pipe (expansion chamber).
Again, WKA did this so when the Jr's moved up to Sr's, they did not slow down and have an alternative to TAG. |
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Andersen Venturini
Joined: 27 May 2011
Posts: 39
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| Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 4:41 am Post subject: |
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tks for the feedback.
I bought the kit to convert that comes with the pipe RLV7448, the flange 9110 and a small piece of pipe. My question is is there a max or min length for the pipe that goes in between the flange and the RLV7448?
Unfortunately the kit didn't come with instructions.
I have raced against the pipe and they are faster than can - for sure. |
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John Wehrheim
Joined: 20 Jul 2001
Posts: 1201
Location: United States, Georgia, Norcross
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| Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 6:33 am Post subject: |
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| Yes, the min length is 9 1/2" from the piston to the end of the flex/pipe/tube. If you do not have a tool to properly measure, cut the tube to 5 3/16 - 5 1/4 and you should be legal. |
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Daniel White
Joined: 29 Oct 2007
Posts: 194
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| Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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| Walt Gifford wrote: | I just looked it up, almost $300 to convert to that ugly, heavy exhaust system. Why?
Gif |
I guess different strokes for different folks, but IMO the new pipe is far better looking, sounding, and performing than a . . . soup can.
About one second quicker than a can motor on a 25 second track, and less than a second from respectable TAG times at the same track. I love the new pipe.
The other plus is that we get all that performance and still have the rebuild intervals of a can motor. I understand the rebuilds for traditional pipe motors are more frequent.
Our club members jumped on them when they first came out, and were able to get them for $205. |
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Walt Gifford
Joined: 19 Jul 2002
Posts: 4290
Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,
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| Posted: Fri May 10, 2013 10:53 am Post subject: |
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You can't deni the success of the 4 hole can for many years, it was very easy to bolt onto the back of the engine and no fuss with gear changes and it was cheap. If it's allot quieter I'll go for it but, I really like the driving style in the lower powered classes.
Last time I ran a pipe we had metal bumpers to hang them from. How do you mount it with a plastic bumper? I always put the cradle at the balance point of the pipe, doesn't seem possible now. Do you mount the cradle off a rod from the left bearing hanger and let the right side hang off the engine?
Gif
_________________
FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician
Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001
Yamaha KT100 Service Center
40 years karting experience |
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Daniel White
Joined: 29 Oct 2007
Posts: 194
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| Posted: Fri May 10, 2013 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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| Walt Gifford wrote: | You can't deni the success of the 4 hole can for many years, it was very easy to bolt onto the back of the engine and no fuss with gear changes and it was cheap. If it's allot quieter I'll go for it but, I really like the driving style in the lower powered classes.
Last time I ran a pipe we had metal bumpers to hang them from. How do you mount it with a plastic bumper? I always put the cradle at the balance point of the pipe, doesn't seem possible now. Do you mount the cradle off a rod from the left bearing hanger and let the right side hang off the engine?
Gif |
I have an OTK kart and they offer a mount that is fixed to the left bearing hanger, as you mentioned. Springs hold the pipe to the header (and the flex) and two more springs hold the pipe to the cradle. It's solid.
I only used a can very briefly, so take this with a grain of salt, but it just seemed so effortless--not demanding on the chassis or tires at all (but when I bought the kart it was already set up for my home track). The kart pretty much went where I pointed it. With the pipe it's quite different. I'm back to worrying about chassis set-up and dealing with entry understeer and exit oversteer--more like my Rotax kart. |
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John Mulvihill
Joined: 14 Oct 2001
Posts: 1142
Location: United States, New York,
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| Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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IMHO:
4 hole can was nice until it was run for a couple years. Then it would pull the studs out of the head, fall off, and get crunched. If it didn't fall off, the internal holes would rust and a DQ could follow. End caps cracked also.
Some of those cans eventually ended up on E-Bay just to share the misery.
FWIW: Its a "wear-and-tear" part that ends up costing as much, if not more, than a pipe.
John
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