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Baseline Setup for GP10 and Drilling Hubs for Set Screws

 
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Todd Kageals



Joined: 15 Jun 2012
Posts: 271

PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 2:20 pm    Post subject: Baseline Setup for GP10 and Drilling Hubs for Set Screws Reply with quote

Guys,

For the time being, my engine woes have been solved. The kart is ready to take down to MMX for a practice run. Does anyone have a baseline setup (front and rear track width) for a 2011 GP10?

I also need to drill and tap the front and rear hubs for set screws. If I understand this correctly, I drill the thicker part of the hub directctly above the keyway and then put the set screw in so that that it presses down on the key. The only reason I question this is that when the hubs are all the way on the axle (as narrow as the rear will go), the set screws would be past the end of the key. Maybe they are never run this narrow but that's why I am asking.

Thanks for the help.

Todd
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Randy Mckee



Joined: 23 Jul 2001
Posts: 746
Location: United States, California,

PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't run a GP anything, but I think you can safely set the rear between 54.75 and 55 inches. Set the front in the middle of the available range so you have some room to adjust either direction. You'll never run the rear skinny except maybe in wet conditions. Most drivers I know set it to 55, but it doesn't hurt to test other settings.

You're right about the location for the set screw. Thickest part of the hub over the keyway. Are you sure you need to install set screws? Not very many orgs require them, so check with yours to be sure.
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#123 TonyKart - S4 Stock Honda
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Michael Taksa



Joined: 25 Jul 2001
Posts: 1426
Location: United States, Massachusetts, Boston

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The screws are there to prevend hubs from sliding out, on long hubs there is plenty of room to have the screw inside the key. Don't tighten it all the way to the axle and use a nut against the hub just like on the chain tensioner to hold it in place. that way if the hub starts to slide out the bolt will hit the key and the hub will not slide anymore.
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Todd Kageals



Joined: 15 Jun 2012
Posts: 271

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy,

The WKC requires the set screws for road racing which is my ultimate goal. I'll start at 55" , thanks for the advice. When I assembled my first kart, I thought the hubs were suppsed to go all the way on (narrow). That put the rear at something like 51". I wonder if that's why it handled so poorly!

Randy Mckee wrote:
I don't run a GP anything, but I think you can safely set the rear between 54.75 and 55 inches. Set the front in the middle of the available range so you have some room to adjust either direction. You'll never run the rear skinny except maybe in wet conditions. Most drivers I know set it to 55, but it doesn't hurt to test other settings.

You're right about the location for the set screw. Thickest part of the hub over the keyway. Are you sure you need to install set screws? Not very many orgs require them, so check with yours to be sure.
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Randy Mckee



Joined: 23 Jul 2001
Posts: 746
Location: United States, California,

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, 51 is really narrow. Probably turned-in real nice though. (kidding)

One more thing about the rear width: Many senior class rules specify rear can be up to 55 1/8, which leaves a tiny bit of wiggle room if you set it to 55. Check your rules if you plan to run it at 55. If unsure set it a bit skinnier, perhaps 54 3/4, to make sure you'll pass post-race tech. You probably won't notice the diff anyway, so I'd start there.
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