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GP 10 / CR125 Engine / Seat Clearance
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Todd Kageals



Joined: 15 Jun 2012
Posts: 271

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joseph,

I did not see your post. I'll take some pictures or a video tonight and post it up. Interesting that you are not seeing an issue.

Todd
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Todd Kageals



Joined: 15 Jun 2012
Posts: 271

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's what I have come up with:
Axle to top of seat - 21 cm
Left spindle bolt to center top of seat - 104.1 cm
Rt. Front Edge of seat to inside edge of front frame tube =65.4 cm
Lt. Front Edge of seat to inside edge of front frame tube = 62.2 cm
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Ken Schilling



Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1345

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Todd Kageals wrote:
Here's what I have come up with:
Axle to top of seat - 21 cm
Left spindle bolt to center top of seat - 104.1 cm
Rt. Front Edge of seat to inside edge of front frame tube =65.4 cm
Lt. Front Edge of seat to inside edge of front frame tube = 62.2 cm

Todd,

Is your axle to top of seat dimension with the axle in the highest position? (low ride height). If so, it's way too much, unless you have a "tall" RibTect seat, especially with the left spindle bolt to top of seat 104.1 cm dimension. You will want to run the rear ride height low all of the time except for in the rain or on a super slippery track. With your dimensions your seat is too far forward and not leaned back far enough. You really don't need to worry too much about the front edge of seat dimensions as those will fall into place pretty much by themselves.

Trust me:
- Bottom of seat flush with bottom of chassis but no more than 3/8" below.
- Top of axle to top of seat: 17 - 19 cm
- Top of left spindle blot to top of seat: 105 - 107 cm

With the kart on the stand, put a solid piece of wood or something for the chassis to sit on. I use a piece of 1/4" thick press board that I've cut to fit onto the stand between the end tabs on each of the front and rear supports. This will allow the seat to sit on it and make mounting much easier.
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Ken Schilling
#21x / S4 / ProKart Challenge (PKC)
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Good luck is where preparation and opportunity meet!!!

The opinions I express are mine alone and do not reflect those of any organization of which I am a member.
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Todd Kageals



Joined: 15 Jun 2012
Posts: 271

PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ken,

It appears that the ride height is already set as low as it will go. I believe that this is a CRG seat as it came directly from CRG via the fellow who sold me the GP (he had them ship me a new seat that would fit me). The bottom IS flush with the bottom of the chassis. The diminsions might be off because I tried to position the seat where I could reach everything. I must have short legs as I was having difficulty reaching the pedals. I put the flat part (bottom) of the seat, flat to the chassis rails. So....if I keep the seat flat, I'll have to move it backwards in the chassis to get the axle dimension correct? Otherwise I would have to lean the seat back but then the flat surface on the bottom of the seat would be angled in the chassis. I've watched the you tube video and it seems that I mounted it correctly but I just need to adjust my measurements. It's a little easier for me to measure to the front tubes instead of the king pin. Do you have that dimension?

Thanks,

Todd
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Ken Schilling



Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1345

PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Todd Kageals wrote:
Ken,

It appears that the ride height is already set as low as it will go. I believe that this is a CRG seat as it came directly from CRG via the fellow who sold me the GP (he had them ship me a new seat that would fit me). The bottom IS flush with the bottom of the chassis. The diminsions might be off because I tried to position the seat where I could reach everything. I must have short legs as I was having difficulty reaching the pedals. I put the flat part (bottom) of the seat, flat to the chassis rails. So....if I keep the seat flat, I'll have to move it backwards in the chassis to get the axle dimension correct? Otherwise I would have to lean the seat back but then the flat surface on the bottom of the seat would be angled in the chassis. I've watched the you tube video and it seems that I mounted it correctly but I just need to adjust my measurements. It's a little easier for me to measure to the front tubes instead of the king pin. Do you have that dimension?

Thanks,

Todd


Seat mounting rule #1) Mount the seat to the correct dimensions, then adjust everything to you, not the other way around.

1) I am also "height challenged" as I'm maybe 5'8" with my shoes on in the morning and I get shorter throughout the day Laughing. On your GP-10 there should be two mounting positions for the throttle & brake pedals to the chassis, use the closer of the two. Once in that closer position, you can adjust both the brake pedal rod (shorten it if necessary) and throttle cable length as well as their mounting location to the pedals to create the shortest reach necessary. I would also recommend heel cups to help hold your heels in place as you drive. There are two mounting holes for the steering shaft support on the uprights directly behind the fuel tank, use the lower of the two. You can also install a steering angle shim to tilt the wheel towards you. I went so far as to drill a third mounting hole even lower than the two already in place. The shifter lever can also be adjusted, and even bent, to accommodate your reach.

2) Don't use the flat on the bottom of the seat to help set the seat angle, or try to keep it parallel to the bottom of the chassis/ground, or any dimension. Disregard the flat completely, use towels or something to help hold the seat in place while measuring and adjusting.

3) Only use the kingpin to top center of seat dimension (in combination with the top of axle to top of seat dimension), don't use the front tubes to front of seat, etc... I can easily reach from the kingpin to the top of the seat by standing on the drivers left side of the chassis. Removing the nerf bars and sidepods gives you even more room if necessary.

4) You know the adage of "measure twice, cut once"....? Well, with seat placement I measure, measure, measure, and measure again, stand behind the kart and look at it closely, measure at least a few more times, etc... then finally mark my holes at the seat uprights with a Sharpie. Measure at least twice more, then finally drill my holes. Drill only the holes at the seat uprights first!!! Don't stress out if after you drill the holes and lightly snug the bolts (to allow a little bit of angle adjustment), that the dimensions have changed a little bit. You can oblong the holes a little using your drill to get it just right.
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Ken Schilling
#21x / S4 / ProKart Challenge (PKC)
SKUSA Data Administrator

Good luck is where preparation and opportunity meet!!!

The opinions I express are mine alone and do not reflect those of any organization of which I am a member.
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Todd Kageals



Joined: 15 Jun 2012
Posts: 271

PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ken,

I've got to say a big "THANK YOU" to you. I followed your seat mounting instructions and now everything fits very well. The engine can go all the way forward and backwards with out hitting the seat. The unexpected plus is that in this position I can reach the pedals and the steering wheel very comfortably. So....you basically fixed all my problems at once. Now....if I could just get my shift rod setup correctly (or a slick cable shift system would be nice Smile

Seriously...thanks for the help Ken (and others who offered advice)....much appreciated.

Here's a tip someone shared with me that worked well on the GP. To get the steering wheel lower, you can invert the support collar. That brings it quite a bit lower. The steering shaft clears the fuel tank with the collar inverted but by the slimmest of margins. With the seat positioned as suggested I actually flipped the collar back over and used the upper hole (seemed to work for a better fit).

Thanks again.
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Jimmy McNeil



Joined: 12 Apr 2006
Posts: 1460
Location: United States, California, visalia

PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Here's a tip someone shared with me that worked well on the GP. To get the steering wheel lower, you can invert the support collar. That brings it quite a bit lower. The steering shaft clears the fuel tank with the collar inverted but by the slimmest of margins. With the seat positioned as suggested I actually flipped the collar back over and used the upper hole (seemed to work for a better fit).


Ken recently drove a kart with this exact set up Wink
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Ken Schilling



Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1345

PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Todd Kageals wrote:
Ken,

I've got to say a big "THANK YOU" to you. I followed your seat mounting instructions and now everything fits very well. The engine can go all the way forward and backwards with out hitting the seat. The unexpected plus is that in this position I can reach the pedals and the steering wheel very comfortably. So....you basically fixed all my problems at once. Now....if I could just get my shift rod setup correctly (or a slick cable shift system would be nice Smile

Seriously...thanks for the help Ken (and others who offered advice)....much appreciated.

Here's a tip someone shared with me that worked well on the GP. To get the steering wheel lower, you can invert the support collar. That brings it quite a bit lower. The steering shaft clears the fuel tank with the collar inverted but by the slimmest of margins. With the seat positioned as suggested I actually flipped the collar back over and used the upper hole (seemed to work for a better fit).

Thanks again.

You're welcome Todd.

IMO the cable shifters are problematic and not worth the trouble. Stick with the shift lever.

Here's a good thread on the shifter rod:
http://ekartingnews.com/viewtopic.php?t=116653&highlight=

Here's a thread on the 'J' arm:
http://ekartingnews.com/viewtopic.php?t=114386&highlight=

Cheers!
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Ken Schilling
#21x / S4 / ProKart Challenge (PKC)
SKUSA Data Administrator

Good luck is where preparation and opportunity meet!!!

The opinions I express are mine alone and do not reflect those of any organization of which I am a member.
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