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Water temp drop through radiator
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Allan Litten



Joined: 29 Nov 2006
Posts: 53

PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have read somewhere that the water pump takes 0.3 hp to run at max rpm but I cannot remember where I read it.

Was that you Ian?
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Ian Harrison



Joined: 23 Nov 2006
Posts: 1670
Location: United Kingdom (Great Britain), Manchester

PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys

If you look at an electric pump that does the same job you can more or less imagine the figures for the engine pump.

I've used this exact pump and it's awesome!!

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/water-pumps/davies-craig-ebp-electric-water-pump

click on specification and benefits:

Voltage 9-15V
Max Current 1.3 Amps

Max Wattgae - 19.5Watts

19.5 watts = 0.026 horsepower

i.e.e Not a lot!!

Even this monster only draws a max of 7.5 Amps = 112 Watts = 0.150 horsepower
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/water-pumps/davies-craig-ewp80-water-pump

Is that better Andy Wink

Best Regards

Ian Very Happy
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Ian Harrison
Viper Racing UK
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Championship winning Superkart race team 1997-2012
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Andy Kiker



Joined: 22 Nov 2003
Posts: 460
Location: United States, New Jersey,

PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to see you are back on top of things Ian.
That pump you listed was a little slow for us. We went to the one I list below. It draws more juice but has much better flow and is cheaper.
Cheers! Very Happy

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=12&products_id=1001&osCsid=5470a83850cc182863db156fb6b704dc

Not sure how I did the double post? Embarassed
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Andy Kiker #24

Anderson Karts
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Ian Harrison



Joined: 23 Nov 2006
Posts: 1670
Location: United Kingdom (Great Britain), Manchester

PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy Kiker wrote:
Glad to see you are back on top of things Ian.
That pump you listed was a little slow for us. We went to the one I list below. It draws more juice but has much better flow and is cheaper.
Cheers! Very Happy


Hi Andy,

Yours falls between the 2 that I listed (I added the monster to the post later)

So your pump takes 3.5 amps x 12 volts = 42 Watts = 0.056 Horespower

Nice price as well!!

So the league table (US Dollars and Litres per minute is as follows):

1. Ian's Small Pump - 15 Litres per minute - $135.05
2. Andy's Medium Pump - 20 Litres per minute - $119.99
3. Ian's Monster Pump - 80 Litres per minute - $250.28

Translation
British Litres = US Liters
US Decimeters cubed (0.1M x 0.1M x 0.1M) = 1000cc = 1 Litre (Liter) Wink

Looks like Andy's wins todays prize for value for money! German engineering too, to match the GasGas Cool

Best Regards

Ian Very Happy
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Ian Harrison
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+44 161 343 2009
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Greg Lindahl



Joined: 13 Jan 2011
Posts: 264

PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still want to know: What's the temperature drop from rad in to rad out, for any application. A round figure would help... I'll know after the Sonoma race on T'day weekend but I'd sure like to know now.
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Ian Harrison



Joined: 23 Nov 2006
Posts: 1670
Location: United Kingdom (Great Britain), Manchester

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Greg

Best I can give you off my dyno this morning is 55 deg C in the normal top hose temp sensor towards the back rad and 35 deg into the engine water pump (Anderson/CR250).

I put the second temp sensor into the bleed screw hole on 'U'-Pipe that feeds into the intergral pump inlet (CR250).

However, this is a twin rad setup (rear and side) and the cooling is nothing like as good on the dyno as it is on the racetrack at speed.

Obviously as the engine gets hotter and the ambient air gets cooler, the temperature gradient gets steeper and heat transfer is more rapid.

Best I can do in the time. Hope it helps Very Happy

Best Regards

Ian Very Happy
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Ian Harrison
Viper Racing UK
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+44 161 343 2009
Championship winning Superkart race team 1997-2012
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Greg Lindahl



Joined: 13 Jan 2011
Posts: 264

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Ian.
That's very helpful. A 20C increase while passing throught engine is quite significant, and the infeed side is quite cool. Both load size and how cool the return water is are interesting...
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Erik Maxfield



Joined: 16 May 2004
Posts: 1068
Location: United States, California, Vacaville

PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

.02
I was thinking strongly about adding restrictions to the outlets of my 125 a couple of years ago. I was thinking primarily around reducing pumping losses (horsepower to drive the pump. I made some REALLY conservative calcuations around hydraulic horsepower and found that it was a silly pipe dream.

Adding restrictors in the return lines backs the pump on the curve and keeps it from cavitating (with an increase in RPM or a decrease in backpressure the flow goes up- the Net positive suction head required (NPSHR) of the pump goes up with increased flow rate)
That said,
I run with a giant barndoor in the wind (roadracing a 125) and was strongly considering building a diffuser box on the inlet side of the radiator to better reduce parasitic drag (much like most of the 250 brigade out here runs). That should help for a couple of MPH for use (we run into a wall around 106-108 MPH).
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The early bird gets the worm.....
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Stock CR125.
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Chris Reinhardt



Joined: 29 Aug 2002
Posts: 2919
Location: United States, New York, Ossining

PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian Harrison wrote:
Andy Kiker wrote:
Glad to see you are back on top of things Ian.
That pump you listed was a little slow for us. We went to the one I list below. It draws more juice but has much better flow and is cheaper.
Cheers! Very Happy


Hi Andy,

Yours falls between the 2 that I listed (I added the monster to the post later)

So your pump takes 3.5 amps x 12 volts = 42 Watts = 0.056 Horespower

Nice price as well!!

So the league table (US Dollars and Litres per minute is as follows):

1. Ian's Small Pump - 15 Litres per minute - $135.05
2. Andy's Medium Pump - 20 Litres per minute - $119.99
3. Ian's Monster Pump - 80 Litres per minute - $250.28

Translation
British Litres = US Liters
US Decimeters cubed (0.1M x 0.1M x 0.1M) = 1000cc = 1 Litre (Liter) Wink

Looks like Andy's wins todays prize for value for money! German engineering too, to match the GasGas Cool

Best Regards

Ian Very Happy


I'm guessing you guys aren't running alternators? So the HP required through the wattage calculation is a mute point, or do you figure the stock water pump is using that much HP to spin the pump or more? Just thinking at .056hp, can that even be measured on the dyno?

Just thinking out loud here folks....

CR
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Greg Lindahl



Joined: 13 Jan 2011
Posts: 264

PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Erik and thanks for the ME input WRT pumps, cavitation and losses: THAT explains why I found what was noted in the message above about choking flow and reducing temperature while experiencing no performance improvement.
On the subject of aero drag from the radiator; I've tested many inlet/outlet ducts to no real affect. However, I'm not finished with ideas and will continue testing until I either find a measureable drag reduction or determine that it's not worth the effort.
For this weekend, I have the radiator in full parachute mode and am gathering data for a winter project looking for an improvement in drag loss.
Come chat in garage 10...
Greg
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Erik Maxfield



Joined: 16 May 2004
Posts: 1068
Location: United States, California, Vacaville

PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greg Lindahl wrote:
Hi Erik and thanks for the ME input WRT pumps, cavitation and losses: THAT explains why I found what was noted in the message above about choking flow and reducing temperature while experiencing no performance improvement.
On the subject of aero drag from the radiator; I've tested many inlet/outlet ducts to no real affect. However, I'm not finished with ideas and will continue testing until I either find a measureable drag reduction or determine that it's not worth the effort.
For this weekend, I have the radiator in full parachute mode and am gathering data for a winter project looking for an improvement in drag loss.
Come chat in garage 10...
Greg

Sniffed me out, eh?! (Actually my day job is a rotating equipment engineer in a refinery- AKA pumps, centrifigual and recip compressors etc). If you really want, here are the affinity laws (which are useful for relating flow to RPM and what happens when you increase RPM to flow... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Affinity_laws)

For your ducting stuff, you have not noted increases in terminal velocity (or the time that it takes to get there) with ducts on the inlet side of the cooler? I was very interested to see if there would be a increase in cooling efficiency by slowing the air down (and eliminating spill over the side) relative to a "naked" radiator in the wind stream. I willl be pitting in the garages so I will be over. I am #23 in stock moto.

For all others, sorry about the tangent. I tried to hide it with some technobabble about pump laws at least?!
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Erik
The early bird gets the worm.....
The second mouse gets the cheese....

Stock CR125.
Chassis-FrankenKART
Intrepid/ITAL combination
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Greg Lindahl



Joined: 13 Jan 2011
Posts: 264

PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be measuring flow speed at the backside of the radiator on Saturday. Would like more channels on my Evo IV so more measurements could be made. I measure five temperatures and that isn't enough and must move the inputs around to gather all I want and still miss some...
See you Saturday, and, we've met a few times before.
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Jeff Pickel



Joined: 14 Mar 2009
Posts: 84

PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you would be surprised on the cylinder jacket pressue with out a head gasket and with one. It depends on your overall system set up.
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