Floating sprocket hub?

Rick Brockman · Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2001 7:52 pm Post subject: Floating sprocket hub?

It has been a long time since I've thought about 219 sprockets and chain, so the world may have changed.....

Recently, I've been seeing a floating sprocket hub which is keyed, but does not get tightened down on the axle. Two axle collars are used, each one about 1/4" away from the hub to keep things in order. Hub is supposed to "float" within this space, self-aligning during chassis flex, etc.

Anyone have any experience with this setup?

Thanks

Jimmy Moore · Joined: 26 Jul 2001 Posts: 664

If I were going to try it, and I'm not, I would go about an eight on each side to start. I would think that the keyway would get pretty beat up in a short time. I think you can get the same thing by leaving the chain a little loose.

Gary Kozuma1 · Joined: 26 Jul 2001 Posts: 386

Hi Rick,

I think Jimmy makes a good point. The last axel I destroyed wasn't actually from a bend. I twisted the thing into a couple of pieces!

The twist started at the edge of the sprocket keyway. Also, the depth of the keyway doesn't really leave much material under the key. I would not try this.

Also, chain tension is really critical. So if you give yourself a little slack to avoid binding, be careful you don't windup throwing a chain. That could be very very bad.

Gary K.

Darrin Tebbe · Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2001 12:57 pm Post subject: Floating sprocket hub?

I have raced briggs motors for a while and I always set the clutch to float on the crank. It has between 1/8-1/4" play. I have never thrown a chain except for one time when I dropped a wheel off and high centered my rear sprocket on a curb, bending the sprocket. I have always ran stock or box-stock briggs, and you really have to concentrate on keeping things as free as possible. I have never tried it on the rear sprocket, but it seems like it would work the same way. The rear would be much more difficult to keep clean and "free" IMHO.

DT

Jack Burroughs · Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 144

I had an older kart that had a wobbly brake caliper that wasn't very thick so I did exactly the same thing, two shaft collars to let it float, worked great, on a 1"steel axle, did wear though, so I broached keyways in the collars to retain the key, worked even better. DON"T try on an aluminum axle...it's courting disaster.