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Which mount for WF on an Arrow AX7

 
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Chris Dorsey



Joined: 01 Dec 2010
Posts: 14

PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 2:02 pm    Post subject: Which mount for WF on an Arrow AX7 Reply with quote

Hey guys. I'm switching my daughter's Arrow AX7 from a KT100 to a WF and I am concerned about packaging the engine. It looks like it's going to be a tight fit and I'm wondering if anybody has experience with this combination.

Which mount is going to give me less trouble? Is a 10 deg. better than a 15 deg.?

Thanks!
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Bernie Lacotta



Joined: 21 Mar 2006
Posts: 168

PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 2:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Which mount for WF on an Arrow AX7 Reply with quote

Chris Dorsey wrote:
Hey guys. I'm switching my daughter's Arrow AX7 from a KT100 to a WF and I am concerned about packaging the engine. It looks like it's going to be a tight fit and I'm wondering if anybody has experience with this combination.

Which mount is going to give me less trouble? Is a 10 deg. better than a 15 deg.?

Thanks!

Chris , I've been using the Black Rhino 7 Deg. mount on just about everything. While I use 15 deg. mounts with Animals on Speedway karts ( for air cleaner/ tire clearance) I've found the 7 deg. makes for a happier carb with the WFon a sprint kart. I've used the WF with a 15 deg. mount but if you have room for the 7 deg. you'll be happier. I'm not familiar with the AX7 , I think the only possible trouble may be seat cross member / chain / sprocket clearance. Most mounts of the Black Rhino sliding design should give you all the adjustment needed as far as side to side goes. The Black Rhino is high quality and resonably priced.
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Chris Hatch



Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 405

PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2011 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go with a 5 or 7 degree mount. 14 ounces of oil.
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Mike Burris



Joined: 10 Nov 2004
Posts: 572
Location: United States, California, Huntington Beach

PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris D
Using a 2 cycle chassis sometimes has problems with mounting the sprocket inboard to drive off of the left side as 4 cycles do. That being said, we make a complete line of motor mounts (BTW the Black Rhino is a knock off of our mount!) and jack shaft kits to over come this. The jack shaft photos are of an Arrow chassis showing the different output styles which most likely you would use the DE style.
Jackshaft styles https://picasaweb.google.com/burrisracing/BurrisRacingJackShaftKit?authkey=Gv1sRgCMKz_NiHreaHQg
Motor Mount Styles https://id3528.securedata.net/test.burrisracing.com/merchantmanager/index.php?cPath=0_4
Jackshaft styles and components https://id3528.securedata.net/test.burrisracing.com/merchantmanager/index.php?cPath=0_103

for more information email us at info@burrisracing.com
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Chris Hatch



Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 405

PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2011 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike,

What's the purpose of the single end jackshaft? It seems like a lot of work just to run the clutch inboard.
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Chris Dorsey



Joined: 01 Dec 2010
Posts: 14

PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everybody. I have a mount on the way... fingers crossed.
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Mike Burris



Joined: 10 Nov 2004
Posts: 572
Location: United States, California, Huntington Beach

PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
What's the purpose of the single end jackshaft? It seems like a lot of work just to run the clutch inboard.


Chris, the primary purpose of the single end is gear reduction. the smallest #35 tooth drive sprocket with a needle bearing is a 14t and the 12 and 13 have bushings which wear out quite fast. On arena tracks the 11t rides directly on the crank and the 9t and 10t are outboard which constantly pitches chains. Also you are limited by ground clearance for rear sprockets which a 72 is about max. With the jackshaft (either SE or DE) you could conceivably run a 14t clutch and 66 rear gear (4.71/1) and with different gear sets come up with a 9.43/1 final. Besides the reduction feature you can take a 2 cycle chassis (with angled cross bar) and use the DE type and drive the axle on the right like a 2 cycle. We also have a feature called the CE and the clutch is mounted on the output side of the jackshaft. I put a link to our chart so you can get a better idea of the available ratios.

Mike

http://www.fasttrackraceway.com/calc/index.php
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Damian Cane



Joined: 29 May 2011
Posts: 3
Location: Australia, Brisbane Queensland,

PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Chris, the world formula will fit an AX7. We use the WF in out own WF class with many Arrows, mine included. Mine is an AX9 B max.
There isnt any need to modify the frame or use a Jack shaft ( of course if you want to then go ahead its fine product).

By simply mounting the engine to a 12mm Plate, then to the engine mount, you will raise the engine, enough to clear the rear bar and off set the engine.
We use around 3.5.1 ratios with the WF so currently mine is sitting with 20 front to 64 rear. By going as large as you can on the front, will enable you to go smaller on the axel. None of the Arrows in the club are frame modified and none use jack shafts either. We have run these with out issue for the last 3 years.


AX9 Bmax with World Formula[/img]
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Mike Burris



Joined: 10 Nov 2004
Posts: 572
Location: United States, California, Huntington Beach

PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
By going as large as you can on the front, will enable you to go smaller on the axel.


Are you sure? Last time I looked the bigger you go on the driver the bigger you have to go on the rear gear to keep the same ratio. For example a 14/56 (4:1) is the same ratio as a 15/60, 16/64, 17/68, 18/72, 19/76 or 20/80!
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Damian Cane



Joined: 29 May 2011
Posts: 3
Location: Australia, Brisbane Queensland,

PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Burris wrote:
Quote:
By going as large as you can on the front, will enable you to go smaller on the axel.


Are you sure? Last time I looked the bigger you go on the driver the bigger you have to go on the rear gear to keep the same ratio. For example a 14/56 (4:1) is the same ratio as a 15/60, 16/64, 17/68, 18/72, 19/76 or 20/80!


Hi Mike, That didnt come out quite right now did it. Bigger front is bigger back your right, typo or brain fart!! haha.

But yes we find that 20 front and variations of 62 to 68 rear work best with what we do, which is road racing.
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Dean Graves



Joined: 11 Sep 2001
Posts: 518
Location: United States, California, Lompoc (Lompton)

PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 219 chain can help a bit with smaller diameters too.
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