CR 125 Clutch Advice

Todd Kageals · Joined: 15 Jun 2012 Posts: 271

Guys,

I took my two CR125s out for the first time yesterday. Thankfully, they both ran all day with no real problems (other than bad driving). However, one of them has an issue with the clutch. No matter how tight I make the cable, it will not completely disengage. With the cable tight, there is way more travel at the lifter arm than my other kart which works just fine. Even with the cable way too tight (max travel at the lifter arm) it still won't disengage completely. Any advice on where I should start looking? The clutch is original and does not slip.

Thanks,

Todd

Vernon Head · Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 2:13 pm Post subject:

Is it driveable? Can you disengage enough to stop without killing the motor?

Randy Mckee · Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 3:52 pm Post subject:

Is it engaging at all? I don't mean can you see the lifter going up, but do you notice a difference in the amount of clutch slip? It sounds like it does a little, but if not, it's likely the lifter slipped off the clutch rod (internally). Easy to fix, just shove the lifter back in all the way and it should align the flat side of lifter with the clutch rod.

Other ideas:
The clutch rod ball end is missing or fell out during assembly. This will require removing the clutch case, then the outer basket plate to inspect. (drain oil first!)

Clutch plates could be stuck together. I've seen it on engines that sit for awhile, but they usually break free after running it.
_________________
Randy
#123 TonyKart - S4 Stock Honda

Todd Kageals · Joined: 15 Jun 2012 Posts: 271

It IS driveable. Drags just enough that it will turn the engine over once or twice if it's in gear and the clutch is pulled in. I'm pretty sure I installed the ball. This motor did not have the stock clutch in it (says something like Hinson Billett Proof in it). I have a spare clutch in the basement. Maybe I should just swap it all out. Can you remove the inner and outer basket just by removing the clutch cover or do you have to remove the clutch case too? you'd think I would know as I have assembled two complete motors but I was putting them together from a complete teardown and now I can't remember.

This was only a problem when trying to push start the kart. There's so much drag that you can't push it fast enough to start it. Once the engine was running, you could still set in the pits with the clutch pulled and the kart would not roll....just a big "chunk" when you engaged first.

Michael Taksa · Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:31 pm Post subject:

This will not solve your clutch problems, but when starting the kart push in neutral, bump into second. Hwoever is push starting you will be much happier. Most clutches drag a little, especially when engine is not warmed up and are hard to push in gear with clutch pulled in.

Todd Kageals · Joined: 15 Jun 2012 Posts: 271

Well.....that would be easiest! Problem is that I am talking about bump starting myself after a spin/stall on the track. I successfully did that in the GP without a problem but not I could not do it on the Hasse due to the clutch drag.

Clark Gaynor · Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:36 am Post subject:

Like Michael said, push it in NEUTRAL, then bump it in gear!! They are ALL a pain in the a-- to push in gear with the clutch pulled it!!!! To say the least!!!

Todd Kageals · Joined: 15 Jun 2012 Posts: 271

Clark,

Never tried that before. You are saying I can run beside it bump it into 2nd and jump in? The clutch on the GP releases completely but not the one on the Haase.

Michael Taksa · Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 10:06 am Post subject:

Yes, put in neutral, push kart and run next to it, jump in the kart, bump into second gear. much easier then doing the same with the clutch. Not sure how you can get good speed going with the clutch pulled in. I can't imagine being able to hold onto the pulled clutch while jumping in a kart. /I jump in and bump from neutral into second when my foot is about to reach the gas pedal, bump in gear and give it gas at the same time. Starts like a charm once its warm.

marc-andre hubert · Joined: 10 Apr 2012 Posts: 174

thats how i start it, but i hit 1st gear starts right up

Clark Gaynor · Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 12:44 pm Post subject:

Or when someone is giving you a push, same deal. It's much easier to push in neutral. Forget about using the clutch to start it.

Sam Zavaglia · Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 2:20 pm Post subject:

Todd Kageals · Joined: 15 Jun 2012 Posts: 271

No difference when warmed up. Don't know why I never thought to put it in neutral instead of using the clutch....was thinking like a a car I guess. Actually....on the GP it was easy to use the clutch. Left hand on steering wheel pulling clutch.....right hand on the top of the seat.....push......release clutch...jump in. A fellow explained it to me at MMX, actually saw him do it after a spin during practice. I unfortunately spun at about the same spot a couple of sessions later but was able to get to get it fired back up using those instructions. There has GOT to be a way to put a starter on the cr125!

Christian Hubbell · Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:23 pm Post subject:

No need for a starter, also wet clutches don't disengage like a dry auto clutch. Lots of drag, be careful not to adjust that cable too tight either. You can push the last disc right out of the basket, then you've got big problems. There should be slack in the cable when released. If you've made it too tight then the clutch cover was likely the only thing holding your bits together and likely has some marks in it. Adjust it back and don't use it to bump start. Just launching with lots of rpms.

Todd Kageals · Joined: 15 Jun 2012 Posts: 271

Thanks for the advice. I'll just readjust the cable and leave it alone. That keeps me from having to tear into it again!! Thanks again guys!