What's the best way to bleed brakes?

Steve Libretto · Joined: 03 Mar 2012 Posts: 38

Before I get tornado new one for asking a question that has probably been asked before, I searched this topic and came up with 4189 results.... 215 pages of threads.... I looked at each thread in the first 5 pages, and nothing remotely resembled a "how to"

So..... What is the proper way to bleed a brake system? I have Ven05 front and rear brakes ona CRG Road Rebel. Does the reservoir cap need to be put back on and tightened each time you top off the reservoir? Seems like there's got to be a better way then what I'm thinking.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Randy Mckee · Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 11:55 pm Post subject:

Not sure about the best way, but I used 2 methods depending on the circumstances. 1) Just replacing fluid, or 2) forcing out air bubbles (or bleeding empty system).

You'll want to get a gravity bleeder. Not exactly cheap, but hard to beat how easy it makes the job. See here:
http://www.accelerationkarting.com/brakebleedertool.aspx

Before starting either procedure:
A. Remove master cylinder screw
B. Screw gravity bleeder on master cylinder and turn knob to allow fluid flow.
C. Fill grav bleeder with brake fluid.
D. Pump brakes to get all air out of master cyl and grav bleeder.
E. Optional: top off master cyl reservoirs.

Method 1 (just replacing fluid). Do steps for each brake caliper.
A. Loosen outer bleed screw on caliper until you see fluid flow. Let it flow until you see clear fluid (new fluid)
B. Tighten bleed screw. Don't use a lot of torque. They break pretty easily!
C. Do same steps for inner bleed screw on caliper. Just let it flow for a second to fill that side of the caliper.

Method 2 (forcing air bubbles out). WARNING: Fluid will shoot 10+ feet.
A. Loosen outer bleed screw on caliper until you see fluid flow. Let it flow until you see clear fluid (new fluid)
B. Close the Gravity Bleeder knob.
C. Pump the brake pedal hard (ONCE) and HOLD IT. Fluid will shoot out of the caliper.
D. Loosen the Gravity Bleeder knob to allow flow and then slowly release the brake pedal. This will suck fluid from the bleeder back into the system, rather that sucking air from the caliper. Repeat 1 or 2 more times, and then close the caliper bleed screw.

With method 2 I usually just put a towel over the caliper to keep it from shooting fluid all over.

**************************
OK, now for the cheap methods:

Get a mustard squirt bottle with tapered cap or a large syringe. Fill with brake fluid. You can stuff the end into the master cylinder screw hole and then squeeze the fluid thru the system. This usually requires 2 people because you'll need the other person to close the caliper while you squeeze fluid into the system; otherwise air could creep in while you run across to close the caliper screw.

Automotive method, not great but it works: (requires master cylinder reservoir) This one is definitely easier with 2 people and requires some timing. Fill reservoir(s) with fresh fluid. Tell person 1 to pump brake and hold it. Person 2 loosen caliper bleed screw a bit until fluid flows. Let it flow for a while and close the caliper screw. Person 1 should slowly release brake. System will suck fresh fluid from the reservoir, so keep filling it as needed. Repeat until fresh fluid bleeds from caliper.

I hope some of that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
_________________
Randy
#123 TonyKart - S4 Stock Honda

Michael Taksa · Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:35 am Post subject:

VEN05, bleed just like a car. Open rezervoir, fill, slowly press the pedal, open and close bleed screw. Repeat. Do not fill the reservoir all the way up when done, there should be a mark in there.
Gravity bleeding is for "other" systems and I found out, that even with gravity bleeder you still need some type of "pressure" in most of them. Plastic syringe with rubber nipple that you stick into maste cylinder works best.

Tyson Henry · Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:41 am Post subject:

Ven05 are really easy to bleed.

Just make sure you close the bleed nipple before you let off the brake pedal. I always start pushing the pedal before I unscrew it again also.

Important....make sure you aren't letting the brake fluid drip on the pads.

joseph hollinger · Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:42 am Post subject:

VEN05? Buy this: http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html

Bleeder screws need a little teflon tape to prevent air leaks through the threads when the screws are loosened. Once you've done that, use the vacuum pump and draw out all of the old fluid and air. Fast and easy.
_________________
A lie gets halfway around the world before the truth has a chance to get its pants on. -- Winston Churchill.

Ken Schilling · Joined: 01 Dec 2005 Posts: 1344

Motion Pro Mini Bleeder!!!

I have VEN05 brakes.

This is the best, easiest and fastest system I know of!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYvCH69gWTM
_________________
Ken Schilling
#21x / S4 / ProKart Challenge (PKC)
SKUSA Data Administrator

Good luck is where preparation and opportunity meet!!!

The opinions I express are mine alone and do not reflect those of any organization of which I am a member.

joseph hollinger · Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 10:34 am Post subject:

The receptionist at Motion Pro is H A W T. But otherwise, that looks pretty similar to a wrench and tube. Maybe I'm missing something.

Here's the thing: when you pump CRG brakes, they are going to make a little brake fluid geyser. Unless you do it really slowly. And the geyser is a mess. Buy the vacuum pump and there is none of that. You don't have to open and close the bleeder screws--it's all one step. They use vacuum bleeders on cars for the exact same reason.
_________________
A lie gets halfway around the world before the truth has a chance to get its pants on. -- Winston Churchill.

Chris Parks · Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 2:15 am Post subject:

One of these
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://image.shutterstock.com/display_pic_with_logo/569083/569083,1316037570,7/stock-photo-two-plastic-sauce-bottles-brown-and-red-on-white-background-84683479.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.shutterstock.com/pic-84683479/stock-photo-two-plastic-sauce-bottles-brown-and-red-on-white-background.html&h=470&w=346&sz=35&tbnid=7ZF9hHqiGePyVM:&tbnh=91&tbnw=67&zoom=1&usg=__2ZMuraIt7EHkbIBL8-o6FxRz5Us=&docid=vHcdwVuu6wsQEM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=FkNAUbvdGYXdmAXeuoGgAg&ved=0CE4Q9QEwBQ&dur=3228

Fill with fluid, press into opening of MC, undo bleeder and squeeze. Costs a dollar for a pressure bleeder and works every time
_________________
understeer happens on road courses and usually is pronounced with a British accent. Push happens on ovals and usually is pronounced through a wad of chew. Other than that, I don't think there's a difference - Jim Derrig

Chris

Brian Degulis · Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 5:08 am Post subject:

Pop the caps on the masters. With a small hose on the bleeders force fluid back to the masters. Flush and bleed in one operation.

http://images-partners-tbn.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRh-exLnRpbLTkeGyZvfb9tW6uvBzwvbhz_gfA-WFStYKURmB4W_v5zFXk

Brian

Walt Gifford · Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:29 am Post subject:

Jimmy McNeil · Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 6:28 pm Post subject:

Tyson Henry · Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 6:56 pm Post subject:

Jimmy McNeil · Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 7:13 pm Post subject:

Your method is moving a very small amount of fluid at a time, if theirs air trapped in a high spot in the line, it may not be enough to get it (for a lack of a better term) over the hump. The air mite move a little, then settle back in the high spot. Not to mention, it takes more time, and is tough to do the rear by yourself.

Dave Holstein · Joined: 30 Dec 2012 Posts: 12

I made a gravity bleeder using a 10mm brake line adapter and a brake line tube and some brass fittings, worked like a champ.

Michael Taksa · Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:10 pm Post subject:

For the other systems the thing in the pictures below works like a charm (you can even get a rubber adaptor for it). Yes I have a gravity bleeder, but for some reson birel brakes wanted to be pressurised.