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How to tell when it's time for a rebuild?

 
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Matt Clark



Joined: 26 Apr 2005
Posts: 183
Location: United States, Florida, Tampa

PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 6:45 pm    Post subject: How to tell when it's time for a rebuild? Reply with quote

What are some signs it's time for a rebuild for a club racer? Anything in particular? Is there some part that fails more commonly than others if you run it too long past needing a rebuild? Just trying to get some ideas as I bought my engine w/ an unknown amount of hours on it, and would rather be proactive than run it too long and damage things and cost more $$$. Thanks guys!

Matt
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Nick Weil



Joined: 18 Jul 2001
Posts: 1801
Location: United States, Florida, Orlando, FL US of A

PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Run it too long and the connecting rod or the rod bearing will fail and that's not cheap since it usually destroys the cylinder. Any of the internal bearings can fail without too much warning due to heat and lack of lubrication over time.

We tell our customers to rebuild top end after a 10%-15% loss of compression over time. And if there's more than 20 hours on the top end, you're pushing your luck if you don't do the bottom end at the same time. There's no real magic number, but most racers will agree, they are the fastest the lap before they BLOW UP!
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Russell Stevens



Joined: 15 Oct 2012
Posts: 100

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is your club requiring the rotax to be sealed? If not it is pretty easy to crack it open and check for wear. Top end can all be done with some basic tools, and the lower bearing can be checked for play once the jug is off. Replacing the lower bearings is doable at home, but you might want a press (or take it to a small engine shop and have them do it). Either way go through it yourself with the shop manual, or have it gone through and the bearings replaced by an authorised Rotax shop if you need it resealed. It will give you some peace of mind, and you will know how long since the last rebuild. If you aren't at the level of looking for the last % of power in your racing program run your premix with the maximum oil ratio you are comfortable with. I personally run Golden Spectro at 32:1 in just about everything, including my chainsaw, weed eater, 2 stroke ATV, Leopard, and Rotax. I'm new to karts, but stick with the oil and mixture ratio that has served me well for over a decade. I don't have carbon buildup issues, and rarely foul a plug.
I personally dont go north of 13k RPM for more then a millisecond every lap, so mine is a fairly low stress environment, I rebuild less frequently than someone who is banging the rev limiter halfway down the straight. If you have fairly open rules at your track get an adjustible main jet, and relocate the fuel pump. It makes living with a Rotax much easier, and allows you to richen the mixture on the fly. (Or lean it out and break stuff if you get greedy).
I guess my point is, rebuild time depends on how often and how hard you push the engine, how much oil you use, and if you tend to run it a little lean or a little rich. Have it checked over now so you have a known starting point. If you have to pay someone to check it over, might as well have the bearing replaced while you are at it.
Rusty
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Joe Brizzolara



Joined: 27 Jan 2009
Posts: 506
Location: United States, New Jersey,

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go with the 50 hours as it states in the manual unless reving the piss out of it or competing at a high level and need to wring the last drop of horsepower out it it.

I've know people who are running nationally changing rings or piston and rings at 10 hours and doing the bottom end at 20 but I've gone just about 50 with no ill effects.
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Joe Brizzolara



Joined: 27 Jan 2009
Posts: 506
Location: United States, New Jersey,

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russell Stevens wrote:
Is your club requiring the rotax to be sealed? If not it is pretty easy to crack it open and check for wear. Top end can all be done with some basic tools, and the lower bearing can be checked for play once the jug is off. Replacing the lower bearings is doable at home, but you might want a press (or take it to a small engine shop and have them do it). Either way go through it yourself with the shop manual, or have it gone through and the bearings replaced by an authorised Rotax shop if you need it resealed. It will give you some peace of mind, and you will know how long since the last rebuild. If you aren't at the level of looking for the last % of power in your racing program run your premix with the maximum oil ratio you are comfortable with. I personally run Golden Spectro at 32:1 in just about everything, including my chainsaw, weed eater, 2 stroke ATV, Leopard, and Rotax. I'm new to karts, but stick with the oil and mixture ratio that has served me well for over a decade. I don't have carbon buildup issues, and rarely foul a plug.
I personally dont go north of 13k RPM for more then a millisecond every lap, so mine is a fairly low stress environment, I rebuild less frequently than someone who is banging the rev limiter halfway down the straight. If you have fairly open rules at your track get an adjustible main jet, and relocate the fuel pump. It makes living with a Rotax much easier, and allows you to richen the mixture on the fly. (Or lean it out and break stuff if you get greedy).
I guess my point is, rebuild time depends on how often and how hard you push the engine, how much oil you use, and if you tend to run it a little lean or a little rich. Have it checked over now so you have a known starting point. If you have to pay someone to check it over, might as well have the bearing replaced while you are at it.
Rusty


HI Rusty. How do you like hte adjustable main jet? Why relocate the fuel pump? Convenience?
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Joe Brizzolara



Joined: 27 Jan 2009
Posts: 506
Location: United States, New Jersey,

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russell Stevens wrote:
Is your club requiring the rotax to be sealed? If not it is pretty easy to crack it open and check for wear. Top end can all be done with some basic tools, and the lower bearing can be checked for play once the jug is off. Replacing the lower bearings is doable at home, but you might want a press (or take it to a small engine shop and have them do it). Either way go through it yourself with the shop manual, or have it gone through and the bearings replaced by an authorised Rotax shop if you need it resealed. It will give you some peace of mind, and you will know how long since the last rebuild. If you aren't at the level of looking for the last % of power in your racing program run your premix with the maximum oil ratio you are comfortable with. I personally run Golden Spectro at 32:1 in just about everything, including my chainsaw, weed eater, 2 stroke ATV, Leopard, and Rotax. I'm new to karts, but stick with the oil and mixture ratio that has served me well for over a decade. I don't have carbon buildup issues, and rarely foul a plug.
I personally dont go north of 13k RPM for more then a millisecond every lap, so mine is a fairly low stress environment, I rebuild less frequently than someone who is banging the rev limiter halfway down the straight. If you have fairly open rules at your track get an adjustible main jet, and relocate the fuel pump. It makes living with a Rotax much easier, and allows you to richen the mixture on the fly. (Or lean it out and break stuff if you get greedy).
I guess my point is, rebuild time depends on how often and how hard you push the engine, how much oil you use, and if you tend to run it a little lean or a little rich. Have it checked over now so you have a known starting point. If you have to pay someone to check it over, might as well have the bearing replaced while you are at it.
Rusty


HI Rusty. How do you like the adjustable main jet? Why relocate the fuel pump? Convenience?
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Russell Stevens



Joined: 15 Oct 2012
Posts: 100

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love the adjustible main jet. It makes life easier. It allows me to tune by ear on the stand, and give the knob a twist if I feel like it's too rich or lean when I'm on the track (just like about every other karting carb out there). You have to relocate the fuel pump to allow the cable for the adjuster to exit the bottom of the float bowl and have a lose enough radius bend to allow the knob to turn it. Mine goes right through the hole in the stock fuel pump/airbox mount that is normally covered over by the fuel pump. I put the middle of the 3 jets from the Dellorto adjustible main kit and have had enough range so far.
Rusty
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Chris McGinley



Joined: 28 Nov 2008
Posts: 359
Location: United States, New Jersey, Sewell

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe Brizzolara wrote:
HI Rusty. How do you like the adjustable main jet? Why relocate the fuel pump? Convenience?


Joe, the relocation is necessary to use the adjustable main jet.
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jeremy shaw



Joined: 12 Sep 2012
Posts: 22

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 8:10 am    Post subject: not trying to thread jack or anything Reply with quote

So what should the compression ratio be?
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John Savage



Joined: 30 Jan 2002
Posts: 1265
Location: United Kingdom (Great Britain), not USA state,

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 12:02 pm    Post subject: Re: How to tell when it's time for a rebuild? Reply with quote

Matt Clark wrote:
What are some signs it's time for a rebuild for a club racer? Anything in particular? Is there some part that fails more commonly than others if you run it too long past needing a rebuild? Just trying to get some ideas as I bought my engine w/ an unknown amount of hours on it, and would rather be proactive than run it too long and damage things and cost more $$$. Thanks guys!

Matt


If you don't know the engine hours then get it rebuilt now and then monitor your own engines performance against your club competition
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Ryon Beachner
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Joined: 26 Mar 2007
Posts: 346

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An easy way to monitor when it is time for a rebuild is using an hour meter. This takes all the guess work out of the equation.

We have these in stock ready to ship.

http://www.2wildkarting.com/pulse-engine-hour-meter.html
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