Need Advice and Help Appraising a Kart.

Russ Clark · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 6:28 pm Post subject:

Thanks for all the ideas and inputs guys. I did get a pump Friday but I haven't had a chance to touch it yet. I was planning to today or tomorrow but I think the turbo on my wife's car just died so I will be dealing with that. Maybe I can get to it.

I did finally figure out the starting procedure and have gotten it to fire on brake clean. It just won't keep running. I am pretty confident the pump will fix the issue. If it doesn't I will take the carb down and clean it. That will happen either way I'm just trying to get it to run for now.

Thanks again everybody, I will update as I make more progress.

Chris M Johnson · Joined: 14 Oct 2005 Posts: 568

That kart has negative value.

The only thing that might have some value is the motor as a platform for a new build. If you knew that the motor was built by a top buider of that era, you could be assured it was fast. Then all it would need is a rebuild. (about 1K). OTH, it might not be much faster than a stock honda and would need new cylinder, porting, may need cases, new pipe, new ecu. About 3K in parts and work. If you want to go that route, might as well buy an old 99CR on ebay and then send it to a builder. It would save you having to take that chassis to the landfill.

Kart chassis are disposable. They last a long time in AutoX but wear out in a few seasons when raced on track. As a point of reference, a "good" 5 year old newer chassis has value of about 1K. That chassis is 10 years old and rusted out.

Its not even a good deal as a "fun kart" because you will be constantly fixing things.

People in the AutoX world have a tendency to overvalue their old gear when selling to noobs who don't know any better. I have seen novices directed to purchase really bad stuff in an effort to grow the ranks of the class. Beware.

Vernon Head · Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 7:54 pm Post subject:

Chris:

I would respectfully disagree that the kart has negative value. I've seen too many karts just like this that only need a little elbow grease and some parts to become exactly what is needed for autox. This may be a low time kart. Even if it isn't, karts made by CTS should last a long, long time. To a person new to the sport I think it's fine. 3k in parts and work? I seriously doubt that.

The motor does run, we already know that. It's very likely that it runs pretty well since no major problems have been found. It may just need a new fuel pump.

Like I have already said, I would look for bad things that may have happened to the frame. If it's ok, I would build on that. Every used kart is going to have some issues. Just get it working and slap on some MG Greens.

Russ Clark · Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 2:42 pm Post subject:

Well I got the new fuel pump on and the old one definitely had issues. I can see fuel flow much better now. It still won't fire though. The carb is the problem now I am pretty sure. I have taken it off and started cleaning it. I will be disassembling it and doing a full cleanup.

Right after I took it off the kart I was tuning it over to look at everything and some pretty putrid looking stuff dumped out of the tube that runs from one side of the carb to the other. There is a hole in that tube. I am guessing there is not supposed to be that hole even though it almost looks like it was cut in on purpose. I hadn't noticed the hole before, oh well. I am attaching a picture of the hole so you can see what I am talking about.

Larry MacLeod · Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 2:53 pm Post subject:

That hole needs to be there. Those are the vents to the bowl. Running a hose across with a slit in it is an easy way to keep dirt out but keep the vents open.

Larry
_________________
F125 #196
Old Birel/ hodgepodge Honda CR125
Lefty Funk
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Joe Ricard · Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 3:14 pm Post subject:

Putred fuel is never a good thing.
Drop the bowl and give every hole, port and jet a good blast of carb cleaner.

When you get things back together and are ready to put fuel back in it.

PLEASE just blow in the over flow can and it should fill the lines, pump and carb bowl easy peasy. If it does that you will fire up right away.

Watch that slit hose if fuel comes out of it when engine starts to run then you got a problem with the floats or inlet valve. Yep supposed to be there.
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Arrow AX-8/ Rotax Sr.

Russ Clark · Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 3:32 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys makes sense. I just wasn't thinking to put 2 and 2 together to realize it was a vent. But it did seem that that hole was a little to pretty to be damage. Rolling Eyes

Russ Clark · Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 10:18 am Post subject:

It Lives!!!! I got her running, fired right up after I cleaned the carb . The pump also primed much easier this time. I would guess that is because the bowl on the carb wasn't full of garbage. Now I just need to get it on the ground and test it, only problem is I am here alone and I don't see a safe way to get it off the stand by myself.

Also as I was cleaning there was a white residue that ressembles some sort of oxidation. I couldn't really get it to come lose with carb cleaner. I took a brass brush to it and that got some but it was really tough to get into the tight spots. Is there a chemical that will get that stuff to lossen up?

Now that I know that it runs I am going to start the clean up process. While I appreciate the comments from both sides, I think the guys that think the chassis is rusted through will be surprised with how it looks when I am done cleaning.

I am pretty sure I want to replace this gas tank. Are they model specific? As I looked at them it seemed the mounting method was unique to the brand. This tank has two "nipples" with zip ties around them and the frame. I don't see anything that hold it up particularly well. It seems it just has those ties and then it rest on the bellypan. Brian with your experience with this type of chassis can you speak to this or is it really just a generic thing an I can put whatever on it?

Vernon Head · Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:24 pm Post subject:

Russ:

Shark Shifter has a lot of gas tanks. Check out their site: www.sharkshifter.com

Joe Ricard · Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 5:29 pm Post subject:

Glad you got it running. Also glad you did not have anyone around to help you get it off the stand. WHY? Because !!!!!!!!!!!!

This kart is way faster than you might think. CP is fast and if you screw up you got a whole car around you.

You screw up in a shifter with hard tires and bumps in the road you will be air bourne and sideways quicker than you think Oh Sh!t. Mail boxes are right about head high BTW.

Go find a school parking lot and still be careful. I went as far as talking to the cops and they kinda watched over the whole "test the kart thing"

and the reason I know roads are dangerous? cuz I was dumb enough to try it.
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Arrow AX-8/ Rotax Sr.

Russ Clark · Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 6:53 pm Post subject:

I was able to spend a little time cleaning up the kart some. I thought I would post an update to show how it is coming out. I used Simple Green on the stand but it seems to have hazed the paint. So I decided to used WD-40 on the frame instead. I saw that suggested in another post on here. It worked pretty well but I think I need to make another pass or wash it with soap and water. It looks much better but looks like it could be better. I also used WD-40 to clean up the motor. All in all it worked pretty well.

Vernon Head · Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:31 pm Post subject:

Looks good. Don't drive it anywhere but a track or autocross.

Bill Schmidt · Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 11:00 pm Post subject:

Now you need a little steel wool rubbing on that rear axle.
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Bill Schmidt

'95 Trackmagic 125 shifter (Kawi)
'88 Red Devil F500 4-link rear (Rotax)

Robbie Nelson · Joined: 26 May 2008 Posts: 131

The remote reservoirs for the brake master cylinders is neat. I've never seen that before.

Vernon Head · Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 6:25 pm Post subject:

I'm pretty sure BRM and Maranello have them.