Need to sell Rotax and parts, what are these worth?

[Mark Sink]

Hi Guys,

I just bought my first kart, but want to run KPV, and sell the Rotax that came with it. I dont know what any of it is worth honestly. Here are some extras that came with it. Could someone give me an idea of what this is worth?

The engine itself has about 8 hrs on it, though I don't guess there is any way to tell for sure. It has a Passport with engine sealed in 2006, and no entries inside. From the folks who owned it before me, it was not used much. I trust the previous owners completely, but I have no way to know what happened before they got it.

Thanks for any help,

Mark

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Newbie, Looking for folks near Raleigh, NC

[Russell Stevens]

1) Sprockets - if the ratio's aren't way off for the KPV on the tracks you are going to be runing, and they aren't worn or damaged keep them. You or another racer might need them. ~$10 ea. is the going rate for slightly used sprockets at my local track.
2) Chains - If they are new, keep them. You will need them. They are a consumable item. If they are the wrong length get a chain breaker.
3) Oil - Use it in the KPV till it's gone and then switch to whatever oil you want to run. No reason to spend the money again on a consumable item when you are just starting out.
4) Does the Rotax start and run? A hobby racer might buy it if it does, however the last time it was touched by a mechanic was 6 years ago if the seals are still intact. Unlike wine they don't get better with age. It's a potential $1000 bill if it needs an upper and lower rebuild with seals. Maybe worth $1000 with the jets, plugs, drive gears, and air filter - If it runs nice and doesn't have any huge cosmetic issues. If it doesn't run well or at all it might be better to break it down and sell it as parts on Ebay. Those of us with unsealed engines might need a piece or two. (If you decide to part it out send me a PM. I might want the radiator depending on condition).

If I were in your shoes, and the Rotax runs, I would oil it and wrap it up. Store it till I was ready to replace the chassis with something newer. Mount it to the old chassis, and get it running again. Then sell the package like you bought it. A complete running kart is more desirable then an old chassis or an old engine. Your intended market will be a new racer looking to get into the hobby inexpensively.

These are just my oppinions and what I might be ok with paying if I was in the market.

Hope this helps
Rusty

Edit for bad "maths" due to lack of caffine. 12-6 is not 12!

[Russell Stevens]

As a counterpoint to the question itself... Why not move the fuel pump, and put the adjustable main jet in? The Rotax is a really fun engine, and the adjustable main makes tuning a snap. I bought a used TAG with a Rotax (before I knew what a Rotax was) and am having a blast in our local TAG class. Because it's not an RMax class I was able to cut the seals and do all of my own work on it. If you are worried about the power, you can set the throttle stop (or just don't press the throttle so hard) and have a lot of fun. This may not align with your goals, or with the classes at your local track, however, I thought I would toss the idea out there.
Rusty

[Mark Sink]

Rusty, thank you very much! Thats just what I needed. As for your 2nd reply "Why dont I...?" Well, because I don't know didley about anything at this point. Adjustable main? Is that pictured, or something I need to buy? I may end up keeping it. Im supposed to be getting a KPV, but I havent heard from the seller in awhile, so I might put the Rotax back on, after taking everything off.
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Newbie, Looking for folks near Raleigh, NC

[Russell Stevens]

http://www.accelerationkarting.com/dellortoonboardmainjetadjusterkit.aspx

Just an example. It replaces the main jet in the carb, and the jet access cap. It lets you tune the main jet by ear without the need for a pile of jets and a weather station/charts. Not legal for Rotax Max, but easily reversible and makes tuning the Rotax a breeze. You still have to tune, but can fix mistakes with the twist of a knob instead of having to pit and replace a jet to make an adjustment. Makes the Rotax easier to live with as a casual "hobby racer". You need to relocate the fuel pump to allow the remote cable to pass through the hole in the mounting plate. The Rotax is rated at 50 hours between rebuilds pinned to the floor the whole time. No law saying you can't run it at 12k RPM to start and have a ton of fun for even longer (especially as you learn about chassis tuning). The rush from 7k to 12k will leave you with soiled undies the first time if you aren't expecting it.

Rusty

[Denny Prime]

I'm looking for some extra gears if that helps

Also, I am near Charlotte and we have a pretty good group of new and experienced racers that have been working together at the local tracks (MMX and CMP). Not sure if you want to come out this way for karting... but if you do, let me know

[Ambrose Buldo]

[quote Im supposed to be getting a KPV, but I havent heard from the seller in awhile, so I might put the Rotax back on, after taking everything off. [/quote]

You'll love the KPV. I have 2, in 3 pipe trim and I put lots of miles on, and get 2.5 seasons between rebuilds, 3/4 season on clutch disks (Old style), while pulling 14,800 RPM.
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Ambrose Buldo - AKA Racer27
Old Tappan, NJ 07675
Current: Citation FC2000 (For Sale), Madza RX8, VW Eos
Kart for myself: Intrepid Silverstone Pro w/HPV3 --- With a ROK TAG engine waiting in wings
Kart for Daughter: 2001 Birel ARC-100