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Cesar Rull
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 317 Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Sanford Mitz wrote: | | Make one out of a coat hanger or welding rod to simulate positions. Is the lower shift arm pretty close to parallel to the back axle? |
what do you call the "lower shift arm" ? |
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Cesar Rull
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 317 Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:20 pm Post subject: |
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..........
Last edited by Cesar Rull on Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:20 pm, edited 1 time in total |
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Cesar Rull
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 317 Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:20 pm Post subject: |
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| Troy V Smith wrote: | | Quote: | | a picture is worth 1000 words |
Obviously, not in your case Cesar - a picture includes a 1000 words!  |
Thanks for being my favorite troll. |
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Sanford Mitz
Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 308 Location: United States, Wisconsin,
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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| Bottom of the shift lever near the floor pan |
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Chris Reinhardt
Joined: 29 Aug 2002 Posts: 2926 Location: United States, New York, Ossining
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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| Cesar Rull wrote: | The funny thing is I can do all those things, ,fluid dynamic wouldn't apply to the rod though ... a picture is worth 1000 words.
Like you say maybe I NEED to just install the seat and how things go from there. I would just hate to have re-drill to make the rod fit. |
Yah I can too, and also make a shift rod fit!!!! Get used to drilling holes in the seat, that will be the next 9 page post.....
CR _________________ East Coast Super Kart Series
"This is how we roll!"
www.eastcoastsuperkart.webs.com
CR2 Motorsports
"Home of Cobalt Superkarts"
www.CR2MotorSports.webs.com |
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Sam Zavaglia
Joined: 23 Nov 2004 Posts: 1183 Location: Australia, Sydney,
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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The solidworks picture shows the shift rod is bent too much which makes the shift feel not very positive and hard to shift. Get back on that computer and straighten it up a little.
Here is a suggestion, buy a kart ready to race, make things a lot less complicated. _________________ www.samzavaglia.com |
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Cesar Rull
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 317 Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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ok, lets start a thread to sell mine...
on a serious note, thanks to everyone for the help. |
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Cesar Rull
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 317 Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Sanford Mitz wrote: | | Make one out of a coat hanger or welding rod to simulate positions. Is the lower shift arm pretty close to parallel to the back axle? |
I think this is were the answer to my "problem" lies.
what should be the range of motion of of the shift lever?
IF the shift lever bracket remains parallel to the rear axle the rod will not touch the seat. IF the lever is pushed forward and the angle of the bracket increases, then the rod will touch the seat. The same happens when the bracket moves too far toward the rear.
so the question is when the transmission is in first gear, where is the bottom bracket in relation to the rear axle? is it almost parallel?
Thanks Sanford. |
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Sanford Mitz
Joined: 18 Jul 2001 Posts: 308 Location: United States, Wisconsin,
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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| In neutral, the lever should be close enough to the wheel so you can get your hand past when turning the wheel. |
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Cesar Rull
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 317 Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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| thank you. |
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Brian Degulis
Joined: 13 Aug 2012 Posts: 415 Location: United States, Florida,
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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Cesar you do relize that the shift lever doesn't move very much right? In other words the lever selects the gear in a sequence so the lever is in the same mechanical position in second thru sixth gear. I'm not trying to be a smart ass I just can't imagine that with this little bit of movement there would be any trouble bending the rod and getting it to work.
On my Pavesi the rod is straight. On the KX it's bent up and sightly over to clear the seat.
Brian |
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Cesar Rull
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 317 Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 8:31 pm Post subject: |
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crap man, I couldn't find your e-mail earlier. Yeah I was thinking about what you said.
So when installing the rod what is the best potion on the transmission to use?
neutral? to get good clearance on the steering wheel like sanford mentioned? |
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Gene Heagney
Joined: 07 Aug 2009 Posts: 91 Location: United States, Florida, Cocoa Beach
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:07 pm Post subject: |
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Does your engine have the j-arm on it (I'm assuming yes or you will have a hard time attaching the shift rod)? If so, run through the gears by hand and closely watch what the j-arm does with each subsequent shift. You should be able to figure out what you need to know by watching this.
It will show you how much throw you need to have in order to change gears (which somewhat depends on the length of the j arm). You should also notice that the j arm pops back to its original location after every shift. This will tell you what range of motion you need from your shift lever for it to work.... |
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Cesar Rull
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 317 Location: United States, Florida, Pembroke Pines
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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yes I do. Thank you for the help.
I need did not want to move it because the tranny is dry at the moment since the engine had to be shipped a few weeks ago. |
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Gene Heagney
Joined: 07 Aug 2009 Posts: 91 Location: United States, Florida, Cocoa Beach
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Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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Another note, make sure the j arm is as close to vertical as possible on the engine. If you're just clicking through the gears by hand, you aren't going to hurt them without fluid....
You'll see that you only need a little bit of throw either direction to get through the gears. Set your shift lever as Sanford suggested, close to the steering wheel, but not too close that it will hit before a gear is selected. Then figure out how to bend the shift rod to fit from there.... and leave some room for adjustment with the rod ends so you can shorten or lengthen the shift rod when you need to move the engine forward or backward for chain tension.
Last edited by Gene Heagney on Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:37 pm, edited 1 time in total |
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