New guy with questions (same as you have head before Im sure

Johnathan Green · Joined: 22 Oct 2012 Posts: 15

Just getting into karting with a few buddies. Bought a kart with a leopard motor that was supposed "perfect" and it showed up junk. Im having SERIOUS sprocket issues and I feel that Ive replaced everything. Is there a trick to this that Im missing?

NEW odenthal 2 piece mount
NEW spocket hub
NEW front and rear sprocket
NEW chain

(Ive ran this setup a few times now changing parts each time)

I bought an aligner and it seems that its right on. I will make 5 laps and allow chain to stretch a bit then go back and take the slop out and check alignment. In 5-25 laps it WRECKS the front sprocket! then wrecks the rest of it as it binds up and so on..

My questions....(and opinions are encouraged)
How much and where is the play in the chain?

Im using DID chains are they junk?

When I put the new mount on there was a steel plate under the motor. Is that supposed to be left when using the odenthal mount?

Im not racing, I dont want to race. We are simply trying to enjoy ourselves and have a "fun" hobby compared to out others but thus far this has been a headache. Im open to suggestions!

Chris Hurst · Posted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 10:49 pm Post subject:

Hey Jonathan-
How much slack are you taking out of the chain?

From what I've been told to run about 1" of chain play is good. '

The play in the chain is about half way between the rear and front sprocket. You can measure it simply by grabbing it and moving it up and down with your hand.

I've stuck to this and have experienced no damage to any components except a rear sprocket when I didn't change a worn out old DID chain.
The DID chains apparently do get old and will start to gnaw teeth off the rear sprocket as they stretch (which I found out 2 weeks ago).

I would recommend switching to an O-ring chain as they are more durable compared to the DID. Note that you can not remove links from the O-ring chains, so you have to get them sized for what you sprocket combination you are using.

Make sure all of your components have no end play or movement in them just to ensure that the sprocket or something isn't moving on you.

Had similar experiences until I got more familiar with karts in terms of things breaking left and right. It's a slightly frustrating sport to transition into if you're not accustomed to things, but once you are settled and familiar you will love it. Great way to have fun.

Good luck!

Oscar Biondi · Posted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 11:04 pm Post subject:

About 1" total (1/2" pushing plus 1/2" pulling) is about right. The bottom steel plate is the vibration dampener plate, you want to have it there.
Do you have a copy of the manual?
http://www.tagaustralia.com.au/downloads/leopard_manual.pdf

If the chain is worn it will eat the softer aluminum rear sprocket much faster than the steel drive sprocket. How tight was that chain?
I really like the HAT Panther chain but the RK oring chain is also good.

Dan Haynes · Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 4:56 am Post subject:

As was said before, leave the plate in there. It is an anti-vibration plate. Ditch that DID. They are great for lower powered karts but when we switched to TaG we would ruin one in 10 laps. We started using an o-ring chain but more recently using a hard pin chain. I don't remember the details on the hard pin chain but Dismore told me about them and I have bought a few from them (Comet Kart Sales) and they seem to last pretty long.
_________________
Blaise Haynes
#3 Arrow X1-CIK
TaG
Cook Racing Engines Parilla Leopard

Jim Derrig · Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 6:34 am Post subject:

++! on ditching the DID for o-ring chain, even though your pocket book will scream. I was in the same boat you were. Switched to o-ring chain and a floating rear sprocket carrier and now I don't lose chains anymore.

Dan Haynes · Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 7:50 am Post subject:

The hard pin chain is only a few dollars more than the DID chain and you can re-size it to your needs. The o-ring chains have to be bought in the lengths you need.
_________________
Blaise Haynes
#3 Arrow X1-CIK
TaG
Cook Racing Engines Parilla Leopard

Dan Schlosser · Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 8:21 am Post subject:

An o-ring chain is only about $15 difference. One trashed sprocket and you spent that already. The O-ring will last five times longer probably at the least, particularly in a non-race scenario. Also make sure you are buying a good quality driver and not a cheap aftermarket. There are also harder sprockets available so don't buy the cheapest one available as they'll cost you more in the long run.

O-Ring
Quality Driver
Quality Sprocket
3/4" - 1" play in chain
Proper allignment

You should be good to go for a lot of fun lapping days.

Nathaniel Dewitt · Joined: 02 Dec 2008 Posts: 109

GOOD chain lube also helps a lot.

Johnathan Green · Joined: 22 Oct 2012 Posts: 15

Thanks for the fast replys. I will take the motor back apart and put the "vibration plate" back in. Not sure how it helps but you guys are much smarter about this stuff than I. Im going to change everything one last time and try it again the next dry day. What about a belt drive setup?

Victor L Merino · Joined: 26 Aug 2012 Posts: 1

Greetings!

Besides the quality of chains and sprockets, it would be wise to check the axle. Bent axles tend to decrease the life of chains and sprockets.

Good luck!