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Gear Oil Interval/Checking

 
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Matt Clark



Joined: 26 Apr 2005
Posts: 182
Location: United States, Florida, Tampa

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 12:30 pm    Post subject: Gear Oil Interval/Checking Reply with quote

Hey guys, tried to look as much as I could before posting this but haven't seen anything really concrete yet. What is a good interval to drain/replace the gear oil? Also, is the only way to know you have 100cc to actually measure out 100cc and pour it in? (Novel concept!) Appreciate the help I've received so far, just trying to do all the preventative maintenance possible so I don't pay for it down the road.

Matt
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John Savage



Joined: 30 Jan 2002
Posts: 1263
Location: United Kingdom (Great Britain), not USA state,

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 3:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Gear Oil Interval/Checking Reply with quote

Matt Clark wrote:
Hey guys, tried to look as much as I could before posting this but haven't seen anything really concrete yet. What is a good interval to drain/replace the gear oil? Also, is the only way to know you have 100cc to actually measure out 100cc and pour it in? (Novel concept!) Appreciate the help I've received so far, just trying to do all the preventative maintenance possible so I don't pay for it down the road.

Matt


We change our oil once every two meetings

And yes the only way to know how much oil is required is to measure it out and pour it in, it is also the safest way
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Matt Clark



Joined: 26 Apr 2005
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Location: United States, Florida, Tampa

PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Rotax manual says to check the level every 2 hours and refill as needed, but states you don't need to "renew" (their words) the oil until 50 hours? I'm not saying that's the smartest thing to do, just stating what the manual says.

Also, really dumb question but how do you guys empty the oil out? I know you take drain screw out, but do you guys take off the engine? Or just take the screw out and tilt the kart so the engine is level? I've run it twice now (put a little over 2 hours since I bought it) and want to change the oil, it just seems like a large amount of work for such a simple thing to do that I surely must be wrong in thinking the engine needs to come off, right?
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Todd Renaud



Joined: 21 Oct 2001
Posts: 206
Location: United States, Texas, San Antonio, TX

PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt Clark wrote:
I know you take drain screw out, but do you guys take off the engine? Or just take the screw out and tilt the kart so the engine is level?


Matt, will let others answer your original question - but I am new to Rotax as well and once thing I just learned the hard way is that the drain screw seems to strip easy or at least the bolt does. When mine did it, I used a longer bolt to give it something anchor to and it seems to be ok for now. However, I will get it repaired when I refresh the engine and I am always a little nervous on when its time to change the oil "praying" that this one doesn't strip either.

Don't know what caused it - it might just be mine - but a point to consider nonetheless.
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Matt Clark



Joined: 26 Apr 2005
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Location: United States, Florida, Tampa

PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surely I can't be asking for a trade secret? Upon closer inspection it seems the easiest/most efficient way is to get to the drain bolt and tilt the kart back on the stand. When I can get someone to help I'll let you guys know how it went Laughing

Matt
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Keith Buffo



Joined: 30 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to take the engine off. It takes all of 10-15 mins once you get the hang of it. And it's a good thing to get the hang of... lets you give it a thorough cleaning and inspection, and trains you for that disaster day you need to do it quick to make your race.

FWIW... I know every2 hours is recommended, but I don't worry about it anywhere near that much, and I'm a semi-professional worrier.
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Matt Clark



Joined: 26 Apr 2005
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Location: United States, Florida, Tampa

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 4:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My worst fears confirmed, thanks Keith! Laughing You're right, I do need to get used to working with the engine. I think I'll just take a ton of pictures of every connection/angle to try and insure I don't wind up with an extra connector, etc. when I re-install. Is there any way of checking the oil level in the meantime? Thanks for the info.

Matt
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John Savage



Joined: 30 Jan 2002
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt Clark wrote:
Is there any way of checking the oil level in the meantime?


How many times do I have to tell you Matt Question
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Matt Clark



Joined: 26 Apr 2005
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Location: United States, Florida, Tampa

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John I was meaning a way to make sure the oil is at a safe level in between full on oil changes, I have the new style clutch so correct me if I'm wrong but I cannot use the oil level check screw since that was intended for 50cc instead of the 100cc I should have, correct?
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Keith Buffo



Joined: 30 Nov 2007
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Location: United States, Massachusetts, Stoneham

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know removing the engine seems like a lot the first time, but it’s easier than you think... here’s a punch list:
- 2 motor mount bolts
- starter quick-connect under air box
- fuel line from tank to pump
- RMP sensor on plug lead
- Exhaust Gas Temp sensor (EGT)... unplugs easily from extension somewhere near seat
- 2 exhaust pipe springs
- 2 wiring harness quick-connects (from coil and back of engine)
- ground wire from harness to coil

- Some set-ups have a second ground wire coming off the harness... disconnect that too. (I have mine connected to the top most gear cover bolt.)


As John said earlier, the only way to confirm that you are maintaining level is to drain it into a measuring cup. (Same goes for filling with the correct amount.)
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Matt Clark



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Keith and everyone else for the help, it's really beneficial to a noob like me who knows next to little and would like to prevent any sort of engine malfunction.

Matt
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Curtis Ruth



Joined: 24 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The newest engines have a red sticker on the side that suggests changing the oil with 100CC of oil every 5 hours of run time. Not a bad idea to pull the side cover off and inspect the plastic gears in there for abnormal wear and to drain all of the oil. Then reinstall and fill with 100cc of oil. make sure to replace the gasket if it tears. It should not though. It should adhere to the engine a bit.
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John Savage



Joined: 30 Jan 2002
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Curtis Ruth wrote:
The newest engines have a red sticker on the side that suggests changing the oil with 100CC of oil every 5 hours of run time. Not a bad idea to pull the side cover off and inspect the plastic gears in there for abnormal wear and to drain all of the oil. Then reinstall and fill with 100cc of oil. make sure to replace the gasket if it tears. It should not though. It should adhere to the engine a bit.


I am sure Curtis meant to say 'steel gears' Embarassed
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Curtis Ruth



Joined: 24 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The two main gears are steel, but I like to inspect the plastic water pump relay gears, as there are 3 of them that could have wear or cracks that prove to be catastrophic if broken. A thrown chain, crash, or kurb check can cause them to break and cause alot of problems in a hurry.
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