Help us identify our Kid Kart WF FJA and parts

RICHARD RICHMOND · Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 13

We purchased our WF FJA/b Kid Kart in combination through this site and the SWVRSCCA. My family has had an overall OUTSTANDING time in Solo 2 racing.

At the end of last year my son had a brg failure which seized and bent the axle with a glancing blow on a pole. I repaired/replaced all mechanically damaged components(axle, brgs, cassettes, wheel?.

We are in need of brgs, bolt ons and minor parts but I don't know how to identify or verify the parts will fit. Worse I am not positive the bolt on portions are as built.

The hubs say Margay but I do not see a p/n or model. The left pod has a very minor bend in the lower rail. The front porch has a squashed 1" length of tubing on the bottom rail. Brgs or anything I can identify I can source easily.

The frame was red and has been painted black. What is the best for preserving the frame? powdercoat, paint, epoxy?

We have no clue on the brake other than configuration (solid cast disc with pistons in both halves of the caliper. The 219 chain seems to stretch every race. We have ~8 AutoXs on the current unit and I believe we will change for the new season next year. Does 25/35 do any better on wear/stretch? I know overall cost is lower for the 25/35 piece for piece.

We intend to replace the front porch but I don't know what to tell vendors to quote. The pod rail I believe could be easily straightened but question the wisdom rather than replacement.

Our body work nose is cracking. We will need to replace the nose at least during next season but do not know what to tell a vendor or look for fitment in a catalog.

Thanks all for the past help and any in the future.

Rich

Jerry VanDeusen · Joined: 26 Sep 2001 Posts: 415

chassis is a Margay look in the spindle hanger will be a # stamped in there get it and get on margay's webite and send the # in they will tell you what year/ model it is.
Brakes are MCP's

Jerry
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RICHARD RICHMOND · Joined: 12 Feb 2010 Posts: 13

Found #921033 can anyone help with identification?

I know it is an older chassis by the spindles. How many washers or pills should be in with the spindles?

What are the best widths for max traction?

Can a torsion bar be added for increased stiffness?

What body work should be in place?

Is there a way to lower the rear axle for more chassis height ?

Thanks

dave hickman · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:53 am Post subject:

Call Margay and give them the serial number and they will tell you exactly what chassis you have.

Stock spacers would be 4, and the base setup should be 2 on top of the spindle and 2 on the bottom of the spindle.

Margay can help you with a base setup for that chassis, but it really depends on tires, class, etc.

That chassis doesn't have any torsion bars, and if you want to add them you would have to do some welding.

The rear axle height isn't adjustable on that chassis. You would need to add adjustable rear cassettes to raise or lower the chassis in the rear.

John Matthews · Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:03 am Post subject:

Hi Richard,

You're in luck that Margay is still in business, they may have some parts left and be able to help you with setup options.

In general narrower gives more grip and wider gives less, you want to set up the kart with the least amount of grip your driver can handle in order to be fast.

For the most part stiffer is not better for kart chassis, you want them to flex and lift the inside rear wheel in the corners. I wouldn't think adding any bars will help unless you're running on a very slick track or in the rain.

Bodywork won't make the kart any faster so if you can get away with it in your club don't add any. Otherwise use the lightest bodywork you can get. A breadbox nose may be available used and your nerf bars look like they'll take standard fiberglass panels. If you can avoid adding a heavy speedway style nose you'll be much better off. Don't replace the front porch if you don't need to since it also won't make the kart faster, if you really feel the need Margay may be able to help.

If there's another set of holes lower on the bearing hangers you can try those. You can also change front ride height by moving the washers above and below the spindles. Adding seat struts between the top sides of the seat and the bearing hangers might improve weight transfer and help lift the inside rear too.

What you have is an older chassis that's probably seen quite a bit of use. Keep your eyes open for newer chassis at a good price if you plan on staying in the sport, there have been a few improvements since your kart was built....

Cheers,
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John Matthews
Heartbeat Power, LLC.

Jeremy Bleaux · Joined: 27 Jul 2012 Posts: 5

I run a 99 bandit lowrider on a asphalt track. The guy I bought it off of had it set up for dirt. There was a tortion bar on it, after about 50 laps of practice I took it off and it was not as loose. it also had a thicker alum. floor pan. i took that out and put in a thin tin floor pan in. For the body it had 2 small side panels and a nose. I took that body off and put on a circle track body, I had to bend some sheet metal so I could mount the body on. It was about 4 inches short from side to side. I found the rear tires are best at 39.5 inches. Measurments are taken from outside tread edge. Make sure the right rear inside rim edge is about 1/4'' from the axle mount. There is a adjustable bearing cassette that you can buy for the left rear of the axle. I will have to get back to you on how many washers I have on my front axle. With this set up i am not to far off the leaders with full adjustable karts. I hope this helps.