Forum Replies Created
May 17, 2015 at 6:48 am #48348
The seller probably won’t see these responses, so I’ll chime in.
I have The FirstKart frame at my shop. It is oxidized, but looks to be in decent shape. It could be powder coated and made to look new.
The frame is the only thing left for sale – $100 (you pay shipping)
StuMay 7, 2015 at 9:02 pm #47816
I have every part for the Horstman HPV. 10t drivers are a bit tough to find these days, but I have a new and quite a few used.
Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org or text me at 714 305-6123
StuApril 30, 2015 at 6:29 am #47263
Welcome to “TAG”. Like Clark said, just use a Burris or Coleman external mini starter all the time. You’ll never have to worry again.
I’ve been going to the track by myself for many years and get my kart out / on the stand / on the ground / started every time / run all day / back in the truck – completely by myself if I have no help.
I’ve had every problem you’re describing over the years with the TAGs, but haven’t worried about it since I got a remote starter.
Our kart shop has new and used mini starters and builds a wheeled dolly kit for the mini starters to make starting yourself a breeze.
Email me at email@example.com or text me at 714 305-6123 and I’ll send you pictures.
StuApril 22, 2015 at 6:26 pm #46638
Bring it in to the shop before you take it out to the track. I’ll help you with the carb and the settings. We can start the engine at the shop and tune it pretty close.
1657 N Glassell
Orange, Ca 92867
714 928-KART (5278)
StuApril 4, 2015 at 3:28 pm #45438
I have a pair of new in box and a pair of used. I’m not nuts about breaking a set, but if you’re in a bind – I’ll help out. You may want one for a spare, as well.
Send me a reasonable offer, I could ship it out on Monday.
714 928-5278 or 714 305-6123
StuApril 4, 2015 at 7:46 am #45424
I have a couple 100cc rotary valve FA air cooled engines. I also have a water cooled 100cc reed valve. They are all DD.
The speed and sound will blow your socks off and the most fun you can have in a kart. The sound alone will stop people at the track to see what you are driving.
Two years ago, the F100 Series in So Cal planned to offer this class as their top class. It’s still in the plans, but may be a year or two.
In the meantime, I’d be glad to sell you one or two of these engines if your interested. I have some rolling chassis for $500-$1500 I could ship you, but you should be able to find some nice ones in your area.
714 305-6123 – cell
714 928-5278 MDG KARTING
StuMarch 19, 2015 at 9:11 am #44421
Just in time for spring – FREE shipping for a limited time!February 23, 2015 at 7:34 am #42868
My advise to “new to the sport” drivers is to get a good competitive complete kart. You’ll still have your work cut out for you (especially TAG) but you can learn as you go.
It looks easy on paper, but having all the correct parts installed is much easier than hunting down parts and pieces that you’re not 100% sure what it’s called.
It seems cheaper to build your own, but I am a firm believer it will be better to buy complete.
You should be able to get a complete kart from $2500 – $3500 that will be competitive. A newer 2013/2014 will be a but more, but not a bad idea either.
Good luckFebruary 20, 2015 at 12:11 am #42663
The F100 karting series races there at least twice this year.
The track is a bit of a challenge to get to, but it’s well worth the drive.
Best part is, Jim Granger has a restaurant not too far from the track that has some of the best pizza within 100 miles. Great place to stop on your way home. Ice cold refreshments as well!!
Check out F100karters.com to see the rules package and the 2015 race schedule.
StuFebruary 10, 2015 at 11:53 pm #42049
How’s things in the UP?
I have a few sets left of Freeline magnesium wheels
Brand new and used 3 lug mustard
Brand new and used 6 lug brown
Brand new and used 6 lug black
I also have TonyKart – iKart – Douglas magnesium wheels.
Let me know what your most interested in and I’ll grab some pictures for you.
StuFebruary 9, 2015 at 8:28 pm #41996
6 X 10 trailer has been sold. Thank you EKNFebruary 3, 2015 at 10:04 pm #41666
BumpJanuary 29, 2015 at 4:59 pm #41374
I have a new pair and I have
a pair of used. Used look used, but are sound and not chipped.
Text or email me for pictures
firstname.lastname@example.orgJanuary 20, 2015 at 12:58 pm #40777
The Cal State Championship was a Sat/Sun event is why it looked like so many classes. It was an enjoyable race to be in and to watch. It had a few glitches, but over all – a great event.
I know that there were some good drivers holding out to see the class sizes (as they always do) and some less experienced guys thinking it would be over their head. I believe you’ll see double the entrees next year.
Let’s hope so! CSC is a good event for pros and amateurs alike.January 19, 2015 at 11:08 am #40672
The height can range from approx 5″ to 8″ ground to center of starter nut by adjusting the casters at an angle. It can be adjusted approx 6″ to “7” with the starter level.
Using 3 different shipping scales, all with a few oz difference, the weight of the kit is 1 1/4 pound for the Burris kit and a little over 1 1/2 pound for the Coleman, but again, you are removing 2 plastic handles from the Coleman.
I hope this helps.
StuJanuary 18, 2015 at 10:59 pm #40650
I’ve never weighed the kit, but 90% of it is aluminum. I’d guess a pound, maybe two, but will be glad to have it weighed.
The Coleman kit will be a few ounces more than the Burris, because we replace the two plastic bars underneath with aluminum bars for strength. The Burris starter has aluminum bars – standard.
Let me know if you need exact weight, and I’ll get a small scale and check it for you.
StuJanuary 15, 2015 at 10:11 pm #40548
I have a brand new set of UNICO in silver and a set of very nice used set in yellow. I also have a (mounted only) new set of black that I can switch around if you prefer those.
Text or email me @
714 305-6123 / email@example.comJanuary 15, 2015 at 10:08 pm #40547
I have a Brand new Mychron GPS – in the box. I just bought it last week, but won’t need it for a month or so. I can get another one when they get them back in stock.
Text or email me with questions.
714 305-6123 or firstname.lastname@example.orgJanuary 12, 2015 at 8:02 am #40324
You’ve just bought one of the easiest and lowest maintenance cost engines in karting.
If the engine is sound now – it should be good all year w/o much, if any maintenance.
If you don’t know how many hours on it – have an engine builder look at it.
If you’re going to leave it sit over the winter and you can’t bring it inside, put a little Marvel Mystery oil thru the carb as it’s running – shut off – then put a teaspoon of MMO in the spark plug hole. Run the cylinder up and down a few strokes – then bag it in plastic. Moisture will hurt any engine if it’s not well lubed.
If you need ANYTHING for the engine, give me a shout. I have bins of new and good used parts for the HPV. That engine is 95% of what we run out here in the F100 series.
714 928-5278 shop
714 305-6123 my cell.
StuDecember 28, 2014 at 8:15 am #39464
I know it’s a long way from Michigan, but shipping is less than driving these days.
Send your engines to Jesus @ P1 racing engines. You will not be disappointed.
P1 racing engines
10572 Acacia C6
Rancho Cucamonga CA 91730
There are many builders in the country, but his performance, quality, honesty and prices can’t be beat.
StuDecember 25, 2014 at 6:30 pm #39380
Mike Prokup said:
“KPV is the best speed for the money and can be competitive without many short term rebuilds. Clutch is bullet proof. Speed is fast.”
I agree with you Mike. Even though not everyone thinks so, there’s a bunch of drivers in SoCal that do, which is why the F100 series is still growing at a rapid pace. F100 is 95% KT100’s and HPV/KPV engines. Close racing – low cost – fun.
Isn’t that what club level karting should be?
F100 isn’t the largest series around SoCal (only 3 yrs), but when you have over 60 drivers all with the same equipment – challenging for the podium – I’m not sure why.
If you agree with Mike P, make some calls – get everyone that has a 100cc engine to make a class at your local club.
Read the F100karting.com rules – they make sense. Is F100 a stepping stone to NASCAR and Formula One – Not at all.
“A great way to bring in new people to the sport, without scaring them with a price tag or speed on the track. Minimal maintenance, and overall a great time on-track”. David Cole.December 22, 2014 at 8:40 am #39256
Price drop. We are building more pieces which is lowering our cost to produce. We are passing this savings to you.December 16, 2014 at 6:01 pm #39020
Thanks for the order. I have both parts ready to ship.
StuDecember 16, 2014 at 8:13 am #38997
I’ve been karting for 30 plus years. I’ve tried to put my starters on wheels, but the Home Depot stuff left a lot to be desired. Plus, they always had four wheels and at least one wheel was off the ground.
They looked crappy, but worked ok. 90% of the time, they were the wrong height for the engine – we just made due.
I’ve been going to the track without help for a good part of the 30 years. This kit has been one of the best things to come along in 100cc karting – ever!
Guys buy TAGs so they don’t need to have help starting. We all know how long that lasts!! Every TAG driver needs a remote starter on wheels.
I’m trying to get a few Karters in different areas to get one – and once other Karters see the way it works – they want one.
StuDecember 15, 2014 at 6:30 pm #38962
We haven’t heard of that problem if the starter button’s at the front, which both the Burris and the Coleman is.
I don’t have particularly long arms, and I have no issue. A customer who is 5’5″ has one and is very happy with it.
I’m sure an arm could be fabbed if it’s a problem.
Thanks for the concern.
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