Forum Replies Created
July 22, 2016 at 5:16 pm #69481
The pictures didn’t come through on my end, but my honest opinion is that if you’re new to karting;
1) stay away from anything on CL. It’s more than likely old stuff that needs more work than a new guy like yourself can handle. If the guy selling it spells kart with a C, stay clear.
2) don’t buy a shifter kart as your first kart. Get something simple and less HP. A good LO206, KT100 or an HPV kart is best.
3) find a kart that is from a longtime karter that’s still in the sport. They will help you with problems and you have a good chance that the kart is straight and is – what they say it is.
4) if you believe you’re going to be good and will eventually race, get a late model kart that can easily be changed to an X30 so you can race TAG.
5) don’t buy from CL / did I already mention that?
Good luck!!June 23, 2016 at 2:38 pm #67676
Been away from EKN for a bit – sorry. I would think any local brake relining company could do it.
Also, just post on EKN for good used or even new clutches that someone doesn’t need, would be the best bet.
I’ve run Leopard clutches for 2-3 years w/o issues. In the long run, they aren’t THAT expensive
StuJune 6, 2016 at 8:07 am #66863
Ok, I understand. I’ve got a few of the original and aftermarket drive gears, but I’ve never heard of a aftermarket Leopard clutch. There’s been a few companies that made “aftermarket” clutches for other brands of engines in the past, but because of politics and rules, we couldn’t use them for racing.
Because the 08 Leopard has lost its popularity (read politics and rules) I’m sure anybody that did make an aftermarket clutch, would be sitting on scrap right now.
If you’re trying to save money, you may be able to get your old ones re – lined. (Too much hassle for most people).
StuJune 6, 2016 at 6:49 am #66853
Are you talking about the clutch itself or the three bolt drive gear? (10T / 11T, etc)
StuJune 2, 2016 at 9:26 pm #66767
Busy weekend, but I’ll try to dig out what I have and do some more measuring.
Its best to text or email me direct. I don’t get on EKN as often as I’d like.
714 305-6123 to text
StuMay 23, 2016 at 10:30 am #66316
I have a selection of rotors, but the important part is the width and bolt pattern of your hub.
Measure how wide the rotor is
Measure between bolt holes on the hub
What size axle?
No matter what, I should be able to help.
StuMay 8, 2016 at 12:26 pm #65547
I believe I have the spindles you’re looking for.
Send me a text 714 305-6123 or email me firstname.lastname@example.org
StuMay 2, 2016 at 8:04 pm #65330
Jerry’s service will be on Thursday, May 12 at 11:00am
1010 N Tustin Ave
Santa Ana, CA 92705April 11, 2016 at 2:24 pm #64249
I’ve tried to email you, but couldn’t get it to go through. I’d like to buy this Mychron.
Please text / call 714 305-6123.
StuMarch 30, 2016 at 3:54 pm #63655
A Douglas bead lock screw works great.
StuMarch 10, 2016 at 6:43 am #62654
Hitchiker kart stand has been sold.
The new large Tool boxes are still available.February 26, 2016 at 6:44 am #62005
I’ve got most every piece of bodywork known to karting, and there have been some very light and flimsy plastic as well as some pretty beefy pieces in past years, but most of the newer karts have pretty lightweight plastic.
KarTechna, Birel (Riccardio) and TonyKart (FA/Kosmic) bodywork is probably the lightest (in that order), but CRG, Praga, TopKart, ItalKart (& more) are very, very close, I think it’s more about looks and durability than anything else at this point, unless you’re looking for a few ounces.
Post the brand of bodywork you currently have and what you’re looking at, and I’ll weigh them both.February 26, 2016 at 6:19 am #62003
“For those that don’t know, a blue flag is shown to slower drivers to indicate them to move off the racing line for faster drivers to overtake”
IMHO, if this is why you would want to use the blue flag – don’t use it.
A slower driver should always stay on his line, but beware of faster drivers approaching, and allow those faster drivers to pass cleanly without putting up a fight. That driver should point the direction (off the racing line) they would like to be passed on.
To me, the only time a driver should move “off line” is when there’s a mechanical problem and he’s waiving his hand like his life depended on it ASAP.
Again, JMHOFebruary 23, 2016 at 8:06 am #61850
I’m in SoCal, but if you ever get down this way, I’ve got a few options for you.
I’ve got a homemade double stand that works fine, but ugly as heck – $50
A very nice Hitchhiker triple, that I can give you just the double pieces – $400. ($450 for all three pieces)
I also have a beautiful MDG by Lampe triple stand if you know anyone that can use a triple.
Email me for pictures.
text 714 305-5123February 22, 2016 at 6:27 pm #61806
MRP is still in business but I believe they are down sizing.
We have been a Birel dealer for over 10 years and will be glad to help.
Send me a list of what you need – I’ll get you a price and availability ASAP.
Text me 714 305-6123 or send me a personal email email@example.com
ORANGE, CA 92867
714 928-kart (5278)December 30, 2015 at 9:18 pm #58697
Both engines sold – thank you EKN many times over.December 23, 2015 at 8:43 pm #58420
These RR master cylinders are very good. We’ve used them as factory replacement MC’s for years. The caliper you showed is good as well.
We keep them in stock at all times. Let me know if you have any questions.
714 928-5278December 22, 2015 at 5:33 pm #58376
One sold – thanks EKN
One left – will include shippingDecember 11, 2015 at 9:42 pm #57996
If there’s interest, I’m sure they would do it.
Ask around with the other junior drivers and let F100 know. I think it’s a good idea
StuDecember 8, 2015 at 8:30 pm #57868
I have one pair of new CRG Cadet spindles left.
I also still have the CRG Cadet bodywork – I’m dropping the price to $100 for the complete set. (nose/panel/pods)
Please give me a shout!
StuDecember 8, 2015 at 8:06 pm #57867
Found. LOVE IT!December 8, 2015 at 8:05 pm #57866
We just finished a few more remote starter dolly kits for you that have the Burris or Coleman mini kart starters.
I know it’s winter, but if you want to be ready for next spring, send me a text and let me send you one of these great remote starter kits.
714 305-6123November 10, 2015 at 9:20 am #56511
Buyer decided to buy a complete kart instead. Good for us,
Engine is back up for sale.
ThanksNovember 8, 2015 at 11:21 am #56364
SOLDOctober 31, 2015 at 4:14 pm #56113
IMHO, use brake clean on one thing – the brakes.
Cleaning your kart is very important. Clean enough to eat off is best. While you’re at it, you can check for loose nuts, cracks in the frame and worn parts.
We use a very light spray of WD40 on most everything metallic. Not the brakes. Never on plastic ie tank/bodywork/airbox. A little thicker WD around the chain and sprocket area.
Wipe clean, starting at the front of the kart (less dirty) and work your way back.
Spray orange Zep (you can get at any Home Depot) on everything plastic. Diluted 50% w/water.
For a finishing touch, get Motul spray shine and go. This makes the plastic look great (smells great,too)
Never let the cleaning go – you’ll regret it – promise! A clean kart is a happy kart.