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Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 73 total)
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  • #58697

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Both engines sold – thank you EKN many times over.

    #58420

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Bryan,

    These RR master cylinders are very good. We’ve used them as factory replacement MC’s for years. The caliper you showed is good as well.

    We keep them in stock at all times. Let me know if you have any questions.

    Stu
    MDG KARTING
    714 928-5278

    #58376

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    One sold – thanks EKN

    One left – will include shipping

    #57996

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Wayne,

    If there’s interest, I’m sure they would do it.

    Ask around with the other junior drivers and let F100 know. I think it’s a good idea

    Stu

    #57868

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    I have one pair of new CRG Cadet spindles left.

    I also still have the CRG Cadet bodywork – I’m dropping the price to $100 for the complete set. (nose/panel/pods)

    Please give me a shout!

    714) 305-6123

    Stu

    #57867

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Found. LOVE IT!

    #57866

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    We just finished a few more remote starter dolly kits for you that have the Burris or Coleman mini kart starters.

    I know it’s winter, but if you want to be ready for next spring, send me a text and let me send you one of these great remote starter kits.

    Stu

    714 305-6123

    #56511

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Buyer decided to buy a complete kart instead. Good for us,

    Engine is back up for sale.

    Thanks

    #56364

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    SOLD

    #56113

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    IMHO, use brake clean on one thing – the brakes.

    Cleaning your kart is very important. Clean enough to eat off is best. While you’re at it, you can check for loose nuts, cracks in the frame and worn parts.

    We use a very light spray of WD40 on most everything metallic. Not the brakes. Never on plastic ie tank/bodywork/airbox. A little thicker WD around the chain and sprocket area.

    Wipe clean, starting at the front of the kart (less dirty) and work your way back.

    Spray orange Zep (you can get at any Home Depot) on everything plastic. Diluted 50% w/water.

    Wipe clean.

    For a finishing touch, get Motul spray shine and go. This makes the plastic look great (smells great,too)

    Never let the cleaning go – you’ll regret it – promise! A clean kart is a happy kart.

    Stu

    #55984

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    I agree with John. Invest in a MyChron4 2T and get both sensors.

    The MyChron5 will be out the first of the year, but don’t worry about investing in the M4. They will hold their value for many years to come.

    I hope this helps

    Stu
    MDG Karting
    714 928-5278

    #55796

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Leopard MY09 Engine – complete kit

    SOLD

    #55229

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    VERY COOL!

    I understand F100 Karters had over 80 drivers on Labor Day. Any idea how many will be there at CakSpeed Saturday?

    Time to dust off the KT’s and HPV engines.

    See you there!

    #55166

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Michael,

    Thanks for the shout out. I’m glad you like it.

    Stu

    #54379

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Mauricio,

    Give EMPIRE karting in Redlands, California a call. They have been a TopKart dealer for many years and race the TopKart Cadet very successfully here in SoCal.

    Anyone there should be able to help.

    Empire Karting
    302 Alabama
    Redlands‎ CA‎ 92373
    (909) 793-9695

    Stu
    MDG Karting
    1657 N Glassell St
    Orange,Ca 92867
    714 928-5278

    #49518

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    I knew a guy that quit karting because he couldn’t get any of his 3 hpv engines to run correctly after having them all professionally rebuilt.

    Even though he has never come back to karting, he did find the problem. He had put a rag in the pipe opening to keep anything from going in.

    All three engine just “ran like crap”.

    Try a different pipe before you give up.

    Stu

    #48915

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Walt,

    The $100 gets you the frame and some (most) front/rear bumper bars.

    I’m sure I can find a pair of spindles and a steering shaft that would be compatible. Around $50

    Thanks

    Stu

    #48748

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Especially for a shiter.

    #48348

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    The seller probably won’t see these responses, so I’ll chime in.

    I have The FirstKart frame at my shop. It is oxidized, but looks to be in decent shape. It could be powder coated and made to look new.

    The frame is the only thing left for sale – $100 (you pay shipping)

    Stu

    stuhayner@aol.com

    #47816

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Ian,

    I have every part for the Horstman HPV. 10t drivers are a bit tough to find these days, but I have a new and quite a few used.

    Email me at stuhayner@aol.com or text me at 714 305-6123

    Stu

    #47263

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Mark,

    Welcome to “TAG”. Like Clark said, just use a Burris or Coleman external mini starter all the time. You’ll never have to worry again.

    I’ve been going to the track by myself for many years and get my kart out / on the stand / on the ground / started every time / run all day / back in the truck – completely by myself if I have no help.

    I’ve had every problem you’re describing over the years with the TAGs, but haven’t worried about it since I got a remote starter.

    Our kart shop has new and used mini starters and builds a wheeled dolly kit for the mini starters to make starting yourself a breeze.

    Email me at stuhayner@aol.com or text me at 714 305-6123 and I’ll send you pictures.

    Stu

    #46638

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Michael,

    Bring it in to the shop before you take it out to the track. I’ll help you with the carb and the settings. We can start the engine at the shop and tune it pretty close.

    MDG Karting
    1657 N Glassell
    Orange, Ca 92867
    714 928-KART (5278)

    Stu

    #45438

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Nick,

    I have a pair of new in box and a pair of used. I’m not nuts about breaking a set, but if you’re in a bind – I’ll help out. You may want one for a spare, as well.

    Send me a reasonable offer, I could ship it out on Monday.

    714 928-5278 or 714 305-6123

    Stu

    #45424

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    Mike,

    I have a couple 100cc rotary valve FA air cooled engines. I also have a water cooled 100cc reed valve. They are all DD.

    The speed and sound will blow your socks off and the most fun you can have in a kart. The sound alone will stop people at the track to see what you are driving.

    Two years ago, the F100 Series in So Cal planned to offer this class as their top class. It’s still in the plans, but may be a year or two.

    In the meantime, I’d be glad to sell you one or two of these engines if your interested. I have some rolling chassis for $500-$1500 I could ship you, but you should be able to find some nice ones in your area.

    F100karters.com
    714 305-6123 – cell
    714 928-5278 MDG KARTING
    stuhayner@aol.com

    Stu

    #42868

    Stu Hayner
    Participant

    My advise to “new to the sport” drivers is to get a good competitive complete kart. You’ll still have your work cut out for you (especially TAG) but you can learn as you go.

    It looks easy on paper, but having all the correct parts installed is much easier than hunting down parts and pieces that you’re not 100% sure what it’s called.

    It seems cheaper to build your own, but I am a firm believer it will be better to buy complete.

    You should be able to get a complete kart from $2500 – $3500 that will be competitive. A newer 2013/2014 will be a but more, but not a bad idea either.

    Good luck

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 73 total)