Forum Replies Created
July 25, 2014 at 6:10 am #30833
All of the magnesium wheels have bead locks.
The 2 alum wheels have provisions to install bead locks (pretty simple) but do not. I can include the locks with the wheels if you need them.
ThanksJuly 24, 2014 at 10:12 pm #30830
Added more wheelsJuly 22, 2014 at 8:21 pm #30732
BumpJuly 17, 2014 at 6:28 am #30429
OMG! If anyone reading this thinks they’ll just skip the YouTube video, DONT!!
You will be blown away with this amazing plane and even a more amazing pilot. Congrats Tomas!!!!
Ok… Back to karting. Please look at f100karters.com. This series is there to help new guys get started – advance them as a driver and enjoy karting without being so high pressure. It has produced some great racing and I recommend this series to ANYONE just starting or guys that enjoy karting and just want to have fun.
StuJuly 16, 2014 at 9:47 pm #30427
Really, Rush?July 11, 2014 at 5:53 am #30108
Welcome to outdoor karting. Yes, it is exhilarating!
SoCal sprinters is the club I started with many years ago – and it’s a great club. They race exclusively at Adams (fun track)
Also, TriC Karters races at Fontana – well run club – very nice people.
You may also want to look into F100karters. They are a great place to start in karting with a huge novice class (nearly 20 drivers at each event). When you have more experience, you can move in to the intermediate class (also a huge class) and finally in to the advanced class when you can’t be beaten in the intermediate class. They race at most of the local tracks – Adams / Apex / CalSpeed / Willow Springs / Grange.
F100 races 100cc engines which like you heard, are relatively inexpensive and low maintenance compared to many other engine options.
Look them up – F100karters.com. The next F100 race is at Adams July 26.
You should expect over 80 F100 racers at the July race.
If you need more info, please feel free to drop me a text. 714 305-6123.
StuJune 23, 2014 at 11:04 pm #29370
I’m leaving from Orange County Thursday bright and early and driving straight through to Traverse City. I’ll be going through Chicago, and could go any of the three routes.
Anything in the Midwest can work. I’m heading back this way in a couple of weeks. So I could take stuff now or bring it back to west coast in a few weeks.
StuJune 21, 2014 at 7:05 am #29231
Just an FYI.
I ordered quite a few items from Mr Recker, and his communication was excellent.
I just recieved another two boxes yesterday that wasn’t supposed to arrive until Monday. Everything was as described – even nicer.
I don’t think for one second Scott ever tried to mislead you.
On the other hand, I would report that mangled box – there’s no excuse for that. I’m sure it didn’t leave Mr Recker looking like that and he does insure the items he sells.
Scott, if you read this:
Thank you again for the engine, shoes and hubs and the fair price on each. Let me know what else you have. I’ll buy it from you again in an instant!!
StuMay 12, 2014 at 10:24 pm #27365
Shame on you, Hailey Scott.May 9, 2014 at 7:56 pm #27221
Yes, the all new iKart has the sweetest seat adjustment system in karting. 9 position seat mount and adjustable seat struts.
The iKart has about a dozen more user friendly adjustments as well.
On top of that – it’s an awesome handling kart.
If you would like to send me your number or email, I can send you some close up pictures.
714 305-6123 or firstname.lastname@example.org
StuApril 15, 2014 at 11:37 pm #25764
After working on and building many brands of karts, I welcome those pricy little Birel clips. I wish every kart used them.
You will break countless bits trying to drill bolts, then ruin every nylock you put on that drilled bolt. When you snag an arm on a cotter pin or safety wire, you’ll be more than glad to pay that dollar a piece for that little clip.
I think of it this way. If I bought a set of new clips every year we’re talking about less than a $20 bill.
To me, that’s a pretty fair price for the easiest clip in karting.
Just my $0.02April 5, 2014 at 9:55 pm #25119
Sold – thanks EKNMarch 19, 2014 at 12:29 am #24075
I’ve talked to about 15 new guys that are planning on racing this Saturday. At this rate, we’re going to have 25+ in each class of adults.
This should be fun. The more, the merrier.
Congrats, F100 Karters.
StuJanuary 27, 2014 at 2:24 pm #20418
There’s not much that goes wrong with the KPV engine package. F100 ( F100karters.com ) uses them and we have very little problems that aren’t mechanic enduced
I’d recommend using MS98 fuel and Burris castor or blend (16:1), unless your club requires different.
If you run the old or new style clutch, have a spare drive gear (or two) in your box.
I also recommend having a spare header avail. They seem to last forever, but once in a blue moon they will crack at the flange that will leave you stranded. If it does break, put your spare on and get the other one welded at your convenience. New spare…
Always check under the pumper cover for debris that can clog the screen and carry a carb rebuild kit.
If there’s any other questions, please give me a shout.
StuJanuary 14, 2014 at 8:40 am #19582
Stu Hayner Sent 1 second ago
In my opinion, the best way to glue the pads down is to use 3M spray glue that you get from the Home Depot. 3M has a few different levels of stick, but I use the 3M hi-strength 90 adhesive (large green can).
This I what I do on EVERY padded seat I install.
Get the seat installed exactly where you want it and all the holes drilled in the sides (including the struts) through the pad.
When finished, slowly remove the side pads, starting at the lowest and sharpest part of the pad. Get your fingers underneath everything right to the fiberglas. Be very careful not to rip any more of the foam than you have to, and continue lifting it up until all the holes that you have drilled are exposed. (You can use a small putty knife to help remove it).
Clean the seat well (perfect is not necessary) where the pad is to be glued.
Install all the bolts directly into the seat and tighten everything down.
When completely finished, spray the 3M glue only down the outside one inch, of the pad. Spray both pads. When you’re finished with the second pad, the first pad should be ready to stick down.
Starting at the top (this may not have been removed) massage the pad down over the bolts toward the bottom where it’s going to be glued to the seat. It may stick well enough to be finished at this time, but I sometimes stick packing tape down each side and leave it on for an hour or so.
You should be done at this time.
Check the seat bolts quite often to assure they are tight. (Your 5mm allen will fit through the padding where you originally drilled).
The BIG reason I go through this process is because if you install the mounting bolts through the padding, over time the holes will round out to the size of a silver dollar and completely change how your kart handles.
Note: The seat and seat installation is one of the most important handling tools in a kart)
If you have ANY questions, please, please feel free to call or text me @ 714 305-6123. I will be glad to help you.
F100karters.com – the most fun I’ve had in karting over the past 35 years!December 12, 2013 at 7:48 am #17670
I was on my way from Traverse City this morning, but had turn back because of the snow storm and very icy roads.
I hadn’t been to the PRI Show in about 5 years, and miss seeing my friends and all the new products.
If it clears tomorrow – I’m going to try again. I hope to see you there.
StuNovember 11, 2013 at 3:18 pm #15299
Can you send me some pics of the cadet karts? I hate not being able to see them in person, but this may help.
What’s the story on the Minimax? How fresh – what year, etc. pics of that as well?
Stu 714 305-6123November 10, 2013 at 9:39 pm #15223
Just use some cheap brake cleaner from Walmart.
I’ve never been a fan of brake cleaner unless it’s to clean brakes. I use WD40 on everything metal, and ZEP orange from Home Depot for plastics and seat. If its caked on, anything you use will be a challenge. Good luck!November 8, 2013 at 9:58 pm #15125
I race in the F100 series out in Southern California, which is the series TJ is talking about.
Even though the HPV/KPV engines out number the KT’s, the way the rules are set, the KT engines are a pretty good match.
The KT’s are allowed to run at a lower weight and the clutch Is open. A good driver in a dialed in kart can win with the KT set up, especially on the tighter tracks.
Both engines are 100cc air pumps with the same carbs and pipes. They should be close. Most guys seem to like the new pipes on the Yamaha over the cans, and quite a few think they sound better.
The racing has been very close at every track, and gets better every month. The next race is Nov 30 and we are expecting over 50 100cc drivers. (They had 41 last race)
The Formula 100 Karting Series is designed to provide a competitive, fun and cost-effective racing environment for all ages and skill levels, beginners to professionals, and strive to provide the best racing for the lowest price with a particular focus on driver development and proper racing etiquette and technique.
If you’d like to know more, go to F100karters.com.
StuOctober 2, 2013 at 10:45 am #11938October 2, 2013 at 10:34 am #11935October 2, 2013 at 10:33 am #11934
Do you still have the Tillett seats for sale?
Stu 714 305-6123 or email@example.comOctober 2, 2013 at 10:31 am #11933October 2, 2013 at 10:21 am #11932
Did you find everything you need?
Tires – wheels – seat?
Stu 714 305-6123 or firstname.lastname@example.orgOctober 2, 2013 at 10:20 am #11931
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