Forum Replies Created
March 30, 2015 at 7:12 pm #45087
Wow, that’s interesting! 10 hours is too far for me and I’m racing in S Carolina the weekend before.February 10, 2015 at 1:34 pm #42033
Depends on the tightness of the course, but gearing somewhere around 74-79 mph usually works well for fast stuff, shorter for tight local courses. On a Honda, many of us run between 15/24 and 15/27.
Gearing for an 1/8 mile is probably just a bit taller, but you’d have to try a few ratios out to see what works best. MG Greens or Hoosier R60A for grippy tires.January 6, 2015 at 10:55 am #39971
Got the 20 degree angled stingers from RLV ($20/each) and had a friend redo everything and weld the crack. Worked like a charm. Got them back yesterday and they will work perfectly! Thanks for the helpful suggestions.November 23, 2014 at 4:59 pm #37654
Trying to cover the entire range of sizes in each of these classes is not easy. Some kids grow like weeds and some do not, leading to huge differences between them. My 12 year old weighs in at 65 lbs with gear. That’s a far cry from Tom and Brian thinks Tom isn’t even big for his age! So I have my work cut out for me – as does anyone helping me lift his kart to the top of our double stand for the next few years.
But we can’t plan for only below 50th percentile kids to run in the junior classes, so we’re aiming for more fairness with the bigger kids. And to be honest, we’re still below most or all sprint series weights for these age groups, so there’s still more room to go up…November 13, 2014 at 5:44 am #36999
Thanks for the suggestion, Ted. Is that how people modify them? And does it affect the exhaust flow/RPM/HP any?
So nothing special about the alloy used in these?August 21, 2014 at 6:33 pm #32398
All decals should be refreshed for Lincoln, according to a discussion I had with Grady at Wilmington. So small Tire Racks, small HPD stickers, etc, should be available for all.
ScottAugust 9, 2014 at 7:06 pm #31744
45 min break between Heats 2 and 3. Since several of us are pretty close to grid, we should be OK on one of the days at least. The other day is going to be tight.July 24, 2014 at 9:20 am #30810
There is already a fair amount of kart-hate in SCCA, so this tragic incident may continue to pile on that hate. But honestly, according to the credible descriptions I’ve read from people who were onsite, the reactions are pushing knee-jerk territory.
Several letters have been submitted asking for the mandatory inclusion of a panic shutdown switch on all junior karts. Immediately. An on/off switch is a good idea, I think, but I don’t believe this incident warrants an immediate implementation of such a rule-change. Maybe for next year once we can identify reliable switches for all of our approved motors.
I would hope that people would wait for the results of the causal investigations being conducted before demanding changes. We cannot fix something if we don’t know how/what happened.
What can come from this is better involvement of the responsible Junior Steward at ALL events where juniors are running. This may mean the Jr Stewards taking active roles in teching the karts, providing instruction in panic situations, etc., in addition to asking the kids to demonstrate how to shut off their motor. I’m ALL for that.July 23, 2014 at 10:26 am #30766
Scott, we partially addressed such an issue in the last item of the Not Recommended section where someone had asked for another class for the clone motors lots of folks are running in sprint series nationally. According to the rules, any of those motors can run in KM at the lower weight already, so there’s little hope of getting a sub-class for those karts. IMO, karts for adults and juniors are already on shaky ground in SCCA so adding more classes is not seen as likely.July 23, 2014 at 6:18 am #30747
Still need feedback on these issues. Please write your letters to help us make changes (or not).
Joe, please write a letter on the LO 206 with suggestions.
RE: the ICC, yes it was in reference to the modded ICC motors.July 23, 2014 at 6:12 am #30744
There are still American oval kart chassis makers but I don’t know if they make/use the same sort of stops you need. Try Buller karts. Margay is still American, but I don’t know if they use English or metric goodies. I think everyone else is now European or Asian using metric stuff.May 20, 2014 at 7:16 pm #27760
When I ran my TM moto for part of a season, it was quieter than my Honda CR125. Using some junky silencer off the TM pipe. Repack your silencer with some fresh packing and it should be good. We had a 96 db limit and I never approached that – but did get in the 93-94 range with the Honda.March 19, 2014 at 5:35 pm #24126
Sorry, everything is packed up for Blytheville so I can’t get to it.
Did you test it under load (as in sitting in the kart and throttling up)? On the stand it can act a bit unpredictably until the clutch is broken in.March 19, 2014 at 12:08 pm #24112
I’ll check our spare one tonight, but I think that’s correct for the inboard mount. Some folks actually run the shoes the opposite way on purpose, so that shouldn’t be an issue anyway, once the clutch is broaken in (with a load, preferably on a track with some time to heat cycle it).March 19, 2014 at 6:08 am #24084
Pic not working.
Stalling the WF will really take a lot of effort.March 17, 2014 at 1:59 pm #23996
Mount the battery to the seat, not the chassis is all I’ve heard. Vibrations on the chassis kill batteries. Should be able to find something on LiPo batteries in the Briggs forum I think. They are not cheap. I recommend removing starter and battery anyway…
For the clutch, what Joe said. Also are you sure you have the axle sprocket lined up correctly? I don’t ever remember Kieran’s chain jumping around.March 14, 2014 at 3:52 am #23797
Gear oil discussion above: Royal Purple Synchromax for me. Robbie is using Mobil1 10W40 High Mileage. I tried the Pennzoil Synchromesh and it was not very good. Amsoil makes a good Synchromesh, too. Just about any thin oil will work. Not gear oil.March 13, 2014 at 5:49 am #23723
She (and you) should be able to slip the clutch at least a little. It sounds like it’s engaging like a TM ICC motor does.
I’ll assume that there’s nothing physically interfering with it next to the seat or a bend in the cable housing itself entering the case. If it’s not the cable or something interfering with it physically, it might be time to dig inside the case to see what the actuator assembly looks like. If everything is in order, the pull of the cable should be almost buttery smooth.March 12, 2014 at 5:15 am #23659
I don’t know that anyone is using aftermarket/race springs in their Hondas. Stock springs are great and durable.
Definitely check the smoothness of the clutch cable as Robbie said. I also found that changing to the Royal Purple gear oil improved my shifting smoothness and quickness a bunch. At Blytheville on the practice course last year I and everyone watching thought my motor wasn’t shifting. Turned out that the new oil made it so much faster than it had been with the SynchroMesh I had before. Only Royal Purple for me now.March 7, 2014 at 6:59 am #23400
That’s a great video and I’m thankful (for future dads switching) that you included the mistakes, too. Based on my experience, installing the clutch “backward” from the intended mounting got me twice, too. Even after I was aware of what I should have been doing, I still did it wrong twice.
The good news is that once it’s all together and mounted correctly, you shouldn’t have to worry about much else related to the motor. It should run for years with only minor tweaks to the valves.March 3, 2014 at 7:27 am #23108
Thanks, Frank and EKN! All taken care of now.March 1, 2014 at 2:06 pm #22993
I’ll second what Craig said. Comer 50 or 51 on a baby kart or a cadet-sized kart, depending on the size of your kid(s). The Comer is indestructible and the worst thing you’ll really ever need to worry about is a grain of sand in the carb jet. Well changing the clutch is worse, but you can get help for that. The kart chassis rattles itself to pieces, so safety wire and nylock nuts are definitely your friend. The axle gear is a spec size (89), so they can’t go much more than about 25 mph.February 12, 2014 at 8:37 am #21889
Last chance to submit letters on these topics. We’ve received little feedback…January 1, 2014 at 7:34 am #18724
7100 is max. We run a 17T with 65-73T axle sprockets. So around a 4:1 ratio, plus or minus 0.3 ish.
And from what we’ve experienced and what I’ve read, you ideally want to gear for hitting the rev-limiter ~2/3 down the straight(s) before braking. So hitting the rev limiter is the best way to set your gearing. Kieran hates when it happens, but it helps keep the gearing OK for digging out of the tight corners elsewhere.December 30, 2013 at 12:34 pm #18652
I’ve found that running the sprocket inboard is the easy way to get the axle sprocket to line up with the key slot in the axle. I couldn’t get ours to line up otherwise. There are ways around it, but the easiest is to flip the clutch.
Instructions for flipping are provided int he paperwork with the clutch since it’s commonly done. Basically separate the clutch assembly from the drum, reverse the screw things, then put it back together. You need to add the additional washer against the crank at the case to make it work. Overall pretty simple to make the change if your crank’s key slot isn’t too tight. Videos are available on swapping for inboard running, I think.
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