Forum Replies Created
December 5, 2016 at 9:32 pm #75146
SoldNovember 29, 2016 at 9:06 am #74873
Price drop to $1199November 7, 2016 at 5:50 pm #73932
reduction to $1399October 25, 2016 at 10:31 am #73442
Price reduction to $1499September 27, 2016 at 3:48 pm #72222
Wow, thats a great price Sebastian, if I hear of anyone looking for a chassis, i’ll let you know. ekarters, I can verify this Kart is very clean and good seller.September 14, 2016 at 2:11 pm #71691
for the KPV is there a “standard” setting for these needles (at a certain temp and elevation) or is every motor a little different and you just have to play with it to get it perfect?
Sorry for the dumb questions.
TIASeptember 12, 2016 at 5:16 pm #71604
OK, was able to try a few out. The OTK4 is too small, especially at the hip area. I got in a Large T11T Tillett and it felt really good. Also tried an X-seat (which appears to be the same as an IPK or IMAF seat) in size 4, and it felt good, just a little more snug. I ended up purchasing a Tillett T11T LARGE from Stu at MDG Karting. I may have gotten the X-seat instead but it sounds like Tony Kart may have worked with Tillett on the T11T (or the other way around) and also my brother has the exact seat and chassis, so we want out equip as close to the same as possible, and adding a different seat just adds one more variable.
Which means I have been running an XL with padding this whole time, when I probably should have been in a Large. Hopefully this shaves 2 seconds off my lap times 😉September 12, 2016 at 2:48 pm #71600
Just noticed that my high needle was almost 1/4 turn out and low was about 2 1/4. I guess I need to close it to 1/8 or less and run it.September 8, 2016 at 2:25 pm #71445
The bottom line is that motor probaby needs to go into a shop. A worn ring, piston, cylinder or all of the above. Assuming you have the same type plug in each engine. You try a new plug, properly gapped, and see if that helps.
Tony, thanks for the quick reply. Problem is that it has done this since I had a new top end done. So thats why I was thinking maybe it might be something else, carb? Plug? etc…
It very well could be that it wasn’t rebuilt properly, which I hope is not the case, since it has done this since the rebuild and since it is my back up motor, that rebuild was done over a year ago, and probably hard to take it back to the builder and say he did it wrong. I did see him at the last race and asked him about it and he attributed it to my newbie buddy not driving it hard, but as I look back at it, I realize it has been this way with me driving as well, but it was so long ago, I just forgot.September 6, 2016 at 9:16 am #71327
Thanks for the help guys, I go try on a size 4 OTK this week.August 31, 2016 at 2:57 pm #71144
SOLDAugust 30, 2016 at 2:38 pm #71094
Got to love seeing that someone was on the Forum 2 days ago, yet they can’t reply to questions on their own classified thread or answer emails sent to the address they listed. Just say the damn stuff is sold and be done with it.
So buyer beware, if you are interested in any of these items, you may get lucky and hear back from the guy trying to sell the items, but the chances don’t look good. I always like sending money to someone that doesn’t reply.August 29, 2016 at 8:55 pm #71059
bump with price decrease to $175 for wheelsAugust 29, 2016 at 8:41 pm #71056
SoldAugust 20, 2016 at 11:24 pm #70732
Sent an email on Aug 18, and never got a reply. I guess I’ll send another.August 17, 2016 at 3:29 pm #70575
Link to ad and pictures
August 17, 2016 at 3:02 pm #70574
- This reply was modified 6 months ago by Rod Hawkins.
Pictures not working. Will send to your email or phone if you are interested.June 21, 2016 at 1:24 pm #67602
updated price drop and optionsJune 21, 2016 at 1:21 pm #67600
updated price drop and options with motors and seatsJune 6, 2016 at 2:30 pm #66884
updated linkJune 6, 2016 at 2:29 pm #66882
updated linkMay 31, 2016 at 7:38 pm #66660
Just realized I also have a Large seat, Motor mount, TAG air filter, KPV3 pipe.
Can do a complete KPV3 kart for $2,000May 26, 2016 at 12:16 pm #66470
Forgot to add. The following are all Freeline parts and not cheap/generic knock offs:
All 4 hubs
Can also add a spare set of Birel Mustard magnesium wheels for extra $100.
Will throw in set of extra used practice YLC tires.
May 24, 2016 at 7:45 pm #66396
- This reply was modified 9 months ago by Rod Hawkins.
I don’t have 1˚ or 2˚ pills, but they can be useful. I have found that adjusting in 3˚ increments with the standard factory pills works fine for me though.
As far as setup tips for either the 401 or EVRR, take it out of the box, assemble it, and don’t touch it… for the most part. Make sure the seat is in placed per manufacturer settings and set up everything else neutral and it should at least be close in competitiveness.
We always start here:
– Flat front torsion bar
– 1 big spacer for front track width
– Neutral caster, neutral camber
– N axle
– 3rd bearing loose
– 1390mm rear track width
– 1 or 2 seat struts per side
– Loose side pods, loose rear bumper
– Medium rear hubs
Always make small adjustments. The OTK chassis is built to be very tunable and easy to find the sweet spot. Neutral baseline setup works 90% of the time if you aren’t doing national level racing.
Glad to help! It helps me learn to teach as well.
Thanks again!! it looks like my notes matches what your “baseline” is. Did you guys notice a big difference between 401 and EVRR. Just getting into OTK from Birel, any hints on how to make the brakes have a tad more “bite” (some have suggested EBC Green pads, while others say to do the larger rotor, but I am only running F100 and wt limit is 360# and the larger rotor is overkill).May 24, 2016 at 7:15 pm #66394