Forum Replies Created
November 9, 2017 at 1:14 pm #88176
Being relatively new to kart racing (4 years) but being in my mid 40s and having grown up racing motocross, mountain bikes, BMX, etc…. When I was shopping for a Kart, I was taken back by the, “you don’t know anything, so you aren’t cool” attitude of local shops. The elitism of the shops isn’t helping the sport. I use to work at a bike shop in college (90s) and if I gave someone such an attitude about full suspension bikes and disc brakes because I rode a $5,000 mountain bike (90s dollars) the average Joe would just walk out. Our job is to educate and then sell. This attitude by certain local shops basically forced me to buy used, as if I were going to learn on my own, I wasn’t going to pay double for something I know so little about.
I was lucky enough to run into Stu Hayner and MDG Karting and the series he helped found. These guys are all about educating, helping and having fun.
I have a few other series around me and one of the things that prevents me from even considering them is that everyone wants to run different tires, motors, pipes, fuel, or whatever. A kart or 2 is expensive enough, I don’t want to have to have a bunch of extra parts because some series promotor kisses some italians ass to get paid for promoting his product. The whole theory is cash now, BUT very very short sighted.
As I said, I have raced a few other forms of racing, but the regulations and politics are nothing like what I see in Karting, which is probably why they don’t have nearly the issues.
On another note. My brother and I have taken about 8 different people out with us to introduce them to karting, none of them have been interested enough to stick with it due to all the confusion and complexity.
Thankfully one of the series I run in seems to be growing, but I have a feeling that this is only because some of the other local series screwed something up and people are leaving one for the other.October 12, 2017 at 3:42 pm #87065
Freddy, thats good to know. My K1 carbon rib vest totally came unstitched where the buckle straps attach to the carbon. This happened on 2 of mine on BOTH straps as well as my brothers. I fixed mine with some screws and time, my brother moved to a different brand.
I have a couple Sparco suits on order, so that is nice to know they are of better quality. I will have to try your wash trick next time. Sometimes dollar store has some hidden gems in their cleaning supplies.
Thanks!October 10, 2017 at 3:21 pm #86952
OK, so after cleaning my white and green suit again, I found that Molecule really doesn’t do any better than what I did with household cleaners.
I let it soak and occasionally stired in Simple Green and hot water for several hours. Then let it sit in the solution over night. Next day I washed it in hot water with a bit more simple green, a couple packets of tide detergent a couple packets of dishwasher detergent packets and a splash of stain remover. Yep, it was a lot of soap, but still MUCH cheaper than Molecule and I didn’t want to “set” the stains by washing it without removing everything.
btw, its a K1 custom suit and it now has had 2 failures with the zipper (the plastic zipper teeth break off) and the velco absolutely SUCK!!! Unbelievable that K1 would use garbage zippers and velcro on an item that is fairly expensive.
I’ll NEVER buy K1 items again after this and having so many issues with my K1 carbon fiber rib vest (brother had the same issue with vest), lesson learned.October 10, 2017 at 3:11 pm #86950
I didn’t even know there was a Size 3a, b or c. I thought it was just a size 3? I just got one after losing a bunch of weight. Haven’t run it yet, but I am about 5’10” and 160-165lbsOctober 2, 2017 at 3:20 pm #86613
anyone know why the results and details aren’t on Race Monitor this year?August 23, 2017 at 3:54 pm #85087
resurrecting an old thread. I bought some Molecule for my suit duties. Heavy soiled oil/grease from a few races and me doing much of my own wrenching.
I sprayed and drenched the spray on the suit. The used the detergent, also used some dawn dish soap as well as a couple packets of clothing soap, a couple packets of dishwashing detergent (I have read that this can work well with these applications since it is made to cut into greasy dishes) and a little stain cleaner.
Let soak for around an hour, then put on heavy cycle. Did a really good job of getting the whites clean and bright (will never get a white suit again). It didn’t get everything out, but I was actually fairly surprised it did as well as it did. Problem is, I used more than half the spray bottle and about 1/3-1/2 of the detergent part of it, ALONG with all the other stuff I through in there. I will have to figure out another way, thats too much money in Molecule product and as much as I’d like to support a specialty company, it is just to much, compared to what I hope I can accomplish with household items.
I can’t find any “wayne industries green” as talked about above, but I do have a TON of simple green. Simple Green is kind of odd stuff though, and probably not good to mix with traditional “detergents”. So perhaps the Dawn, Plus stain remover, plus normal detergent, plus dishwashing detergent might work?
Some say to do dry cleaning, but talking to some guys at the track, they say to make sure you get a good one, as a bad dry cleaner wont get it clean and it will make the stains more permanent. So I am a little leary there.August 16, 2017 at 3:16 pm #84910
I have always been a big fan of using a clear paint protection on my vehicles. I kind of got to wondering if that might actually work well with this type of application? (the install is much different as you put it on wet)
Anyone ever try this?July 26, 2017 at 3:00 pm #84079
I bought a harbor frieght hoist that can be bolted to something (in my case the ceiling in the garage) and it has something like a 500 lb limit. I secured it to the ceiling and lift it above my car. I do attach a couple tie downs to the corners, in case it fails for some weird reason it wont fall on my wife doing laundry or my car. The karts are only about 160-180lbsJuly 26, 2017 at 2:12 pm #84078
Bump for an honest seller. Everything I have bought from Frank has been spot on and good pricing!! He keeps his stuff very well maintained!July 26, 2017 at 2:06 pm #84077
I use a clear tape made by Frost King for taping windows during the winter. Pretty inexensive and can be found in a hardware store or Home Depot.
Interesting, how does it compare to other options out there? (thickness, pliability, residue, etc)April 9, 2017 at 7:24 pm #80299
is this suit still avail?December 5, 2016 at 9:32 pm #75146
SoldNovember 29, 2016 at 9:06 am #74873
Price drop to $1199November 7, 2016 at 5:50 pm #73932
reduction to $1399October 25, 2016 at 10:31 am #73442
Price reduction to $1499September 27, 2016 at 3:48 pm #72222
Wow, thats a great price Sebastian, if I hear of anyone looking for a chassis, i’ll let you know. ekarters, I can verify this Kart is very clean and good seller.September 14, 2016 at 2:11 pm #71691
for the KPV is there a “standard” setting for these needles (at a certain temp and elevation) or is every motor a little different and you just have to play with it to get it perfect?
Sorry for the dumb questions.
TIASeptember 12, 2016 at 5:16 pm #71604
OK, was able to try a few out. The OTK4 is too small, especially at the hip area. I got in a Large T11T Tillett and it felt really good. Also tried an X-seat (which appears to be the same as an IPK or IMAF seat) in size 4, and it felt good, just a little more snug. I ended up purchasing a Tillett T11T LARGE from Stu at MDG Karting. I may have gotten the X-seat instead but it sounds like Tony Kart may have worked with Tillett on the T11T (or the other way around) and also my brother has the exact seat and chassis, so we want out equip as close to the same as possible, and adding a different seat just adds one more variable.
Which means I have been running an XL with padding this whole time, when I probably should have been in a Large. Hopefully this shaves 2 seconds off my lap times 😉September 12, 2016 at 2:48 pm #71600
Just noticed that my high needle was almost 1/4 turn out and low was about 2 1/4. I guess I need to close it to 1/8 or less and run it.September 8, 2016 at 2:25 pm #71445
The bottom line is that motor probaby needs to go into a shop. A worn ring, piston, cylinder or all of the above. Assuming you have the same type plug in each engine. You try a new plug, properly gapped, and see if that helps.
Tony, thanks for the quick reply. Problem is that it has done this since I had a new top end done. So thats why I was thinking maybe it might be something else, carb? Plug? etc…
It very well could be that it wasn’t rebuilt properly, which I hope is not the case, since it has done this since the rebuild and since it is my back up motor, that rebuild was done over a year ago, and probably hard to take it back to the builder and say he did it wrong. I did see him at the last race and asked him about it and he attributed it to my newbie buddy not driving it hard, but as I look back at it, I realize it has been this way with me driving as well, but it was so long ago, I just forgot.September 6, 2016 at 9:16 am #71327
Thanks for the help guys, I go try on a size 4 OTK this week.August 31, 2016 at 2:57 pm #71144
SOLDAugust 30, 2016 at 2:38 pm #71094
Got to love seeing that someone was on the Forum 2 days ago, yet they can’t reply to questions on their own classified thread or answer emails sent to the address they listed. Just say the damn stuff is sold and be done with it.
So buyer beware, if you are interested in any of these items, you may get lucky and hear back from the guy trying to sell the items, but the chances don’t look good. I always like sending money to someone that doesn’t reply.August 29, 2016 at 8:55 pm #71059
bump with price decrease to $175 for wheelsAugust 29, 2016 at 8:41 pm #71056