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Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 50 total)
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  • #73370

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    hi – can you send me pics? lxsedan at aol.com

    Scott, I sent an email with pics.  I’ll PM also.

    Thanks

    #72975

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Hey Randy, Can you send me quick pictures? I would probably buy them if shipping is reasonable ( Currently in NYC). Email: Luiscarpi1989@gmail.com

    I just emailed you with pics…

    #72974

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    You’ve got a PM

    PM’d you back….

    #72949

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    bmp

    #72948

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    bump

    #71305

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Hi Tim,  Yes, still have the 3 wheels for sale.

    Thanks

    #70470

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    If the vortex is an ICC, then it may be worth a fair bit more.  Depends on extras such as data system, radiator, seat, etc. Do you have the chassis and motor models? Post some pics if you can.  That would help to price it.

     

    #56363

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Hi Sid, yes but someone is coming over on Wed.  If you want to pay full asking and get it before Wed, it’s yours.

     

    #55517

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Hey Richard,

    No subscription needed.  Once bought, you’re in.  Check with your race series to make sure they use AMB system and the 160 model is supported.  I’ve used it at many different races and track days and it’s worked great.

    I’m located in southern california.  Zip is 92595.

    #53772

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    I see your NCK races are posted on mylaps.  You guys were running some really fast times.

    So just for some fun here’s some car comparisons (same config).

    Track records:  Go down to 13 cw section.   Keep in mind these are mostly pre-repave job, so not sure how that affects lap-times now.

    http://www.trackhq.com/forums/f90/top-25-buttonwillow-lap-times-3922/

    A couple of typical track days.  Some serious horsepower on some of these cars.

    http://speeddistrict.com/lap-times-saturday-january-31-2015-buttonwillow-raceway-13cw/

    http://speeddistrict.com/523-buttonwillow-raceway-13cw-laptimes/

    #53672

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Hey Doug,

    Wish I could have gone.  Shoulder injury not quite recovered and couldn’t make very many laps in practice last week.  I’ll check out your laps times…. I bet you are much faster than most of the cars on that config.

    Randy

    #53004

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Chris H is right. The kart can pull even with correct toe setting.  Set steering straight ahead, square front to rear, then set toe.  Obviously, you’ll need to do any repairs to bent bits before all of that.

    BTW: zero toe on the stand isn’t zero toe on the ground with you sitting in it.  Most karts toe-in considerably when placed on the tarmac.  I usually go for 2 – 4 mm toe out on the stand, but every kart is different.

    #52889

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Sounds like you’ve done everything correct so far.  I would consider putting the spindle back to matching the other side and tweak the chassis again to get matching side to side in front.  That will at least give you a consistent starting point with ride height in front.

    When your weights arrive, try getting your %’s after resting some weights in various locations.  You might get really close with that much poundage.

    BTW: I’ve had a couple of chassis that like 59% rear, but those were shifters (different requirements for rear grip).

    #52876

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Hey Richard,

    A couple of questions and tossing out some ideas for things to try…

    1.  You mentioned it’s a new chassis so why is the right spindle dropped one spacer?  Was this to compensate for the cross weight or something else?

    2. What do you mean by seat positioning is maxed out?  All the way back or butted-up against something? (I’m guessing this is a tall driver and you don’t want to move seat forward.)

    I’m not familiar with the setup on an Lo206 chassis, but the numbers you are shooting for are pretty standard for most karts.  It might require mounting weight at the front of the kart to achieve those % (based on where you are now).  Try scaling again, and rest the weights on the front center of the seat and your legs (just over the front seat tabs).  This should give you an idea if it’s possible to get enough weight forward without actually mounting the weights.  My guess is you’ll either have to mount a weight up near the steering shaft (not recommended) or move the seat forward a bit.

     

    As for the cross weight:  That can be caused by minor movements in the steering when scaling as well as one tire slightly larger than other side.  Did you make sure steering geometry is set correctly (toe, camber, caster) and then scale several times to make sure you get consistent readings.  Also measure your tires to make sure they aren’t the cause of the cross-weight.

    The right spindle thing is kinda weird, but you can easily fix a tweaked chassis (if that’s the reason for it), but jacking it up on one side and jumping on the other (lightly).  It’s done all the time, but don’t worry about that until you let us know why the spindle was dropped.

     

    #52840

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    I found Nick Firestone’s rain setup guide but it requires a subscription to his newsletter.  His newsletter is definitely worth it, so if interested buy it or try the free trial issue:

    http://firestonekartinfo.com/?cat=11

     

     

    #52839

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Odd that they would go wider in the rear for rain setup.  All rain setups that I’ve used involve going wider in front (a lot wider) and then setting rear approx same or slightly skinnier than the front.  Rear rain rims/tires are also not as wide to begin with, so that makes the rear narrower by default.

    In the rain the kart wants to push really hard on turn entry, so the goal is to get the kart to tip easier by using a wide front (lots of mechanical jacking effect) and skinny rear.

    I’ll see if I can dig up a good rain setup guide.

     

     

    #52692

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Hey, there’s no right or wrong…. if you like to innovate and are having fun, that’s what counts.

    #52683

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Ace, on a more serious note… if the padding is very thick (and comfy) you may find it changes the handling.  In essence, you’ll be sitting higher and slightly more forward.  It’s a common rain-racing trick to add towels to the bottom of the seat to raise the center of gravity; your recliner may achieve a similar outcome.  Test it and see…

    Just curious: if you’re existing seat was already too skinny, how are you going to fit in there with the added padding?

    #52657

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Nice recliner, but where’s the thingy to hold the beer and remotes?

    #52581

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Assuming nothing is bent (including steering components), and your front is is properly aligned then it’s probably weight distribution side to side.  Have you scaled it yet?  If not, start there and you’ll have a good idea of what to change.

    If you don’t have access to good scale setup, then just invest in a set of cheap bathroom scales.  They work fine as long as you are careful and can repeat the scaling the same way each time. (well, that goes for a good scale setup too).

    BTW: I remember reading somewhere you can scale with just one or 2 scales.  Maybe someone can chime in on that procedure….

    #52094

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Alan, thanks for the pics. It looks like your conversion was done by someone different than mine or perhaps because it’s a different carb (I misspoke earlier; my carb is a PWM not ‘K’, so that might explain the differences)

    Your evac is closer to front of carb and as you said it’s might be lower in the bowl. It also appears to be straight (mine curves into the bowl).

    Hmmm…  I think I’ll have to runs some more testing and see if I can narrow it down jetting wise.  It may have been way too fat on the bottom last time out; it felt like I was short-shifting everywhere but shift points were normal rpm wise (and over-rev was fine).  I might try Fastech to see if they have access to the conversion specs.

     

     

    #51968

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Hi Todd,

    Wow they up to 4 rings now on the manifolds?  I have 3 after-market manifolds; two with 2 rings and another with 3 and I think the 2 worked better.  They both seemed to last for about 3 to 4 track days with the viton o-rings.

    The biggest problem I ran into with the o-rings was trying to get the pipe over them without cutting them.  I think that’s why the 2 rings worked best (easier to get the pipe over just 2 o-rings).  Not sure if that’s what you are experiencing. If so, try using just 2 rings closest to the motor and use plenty of lube when putting the pipe over them. Also, make sure your o-rings are the proper size.  I know there are at least 2 sizes out there.  If the rings are loose, they are too big and won’t seal very well.

    BTW: The after market manifolds/o-rings became such a pain in the buttox that I went back to the stock manifold with rtv silicone.  Much easier and it last a couple of track days.

     

     

    #51830

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Hi Todd,

    Thanks for the tip on the gearing.  I figured an 18/22 might be a good starting point.

    The injury thing must be going around.  I messed up at Streets of Willow and ended up in ER.  Hope you get better soon and we’ll go drafting again (is that beer or main straight?  can’t remember)

    #51733

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Noah,

    If it still has the floats, it’s a stock carb.   The floats are removed as part of the pump-around modification and the evac tube is added.  Thanks for the offer on the pics, but your carb doesn’t have that tube.

    #45846

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Where is it causing interference?  Example: it’s hitting motor on right near front right or it’s too tall and crunching my armpit. Nah, forget that… call Ribtect, explain the situation and get the right answer.  877-RIBTECT

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 50 total)