Forum Replies Created
January 27, 2015 at 4:28 pm #41191
Your’s is a single pump fuel system. As Greg said, it should be fine.
A pump-around system uses 2 pumps and a modified carb to work with 2 pumps. 1 pump is for feeding carb and the other to scavenge the excess and send it back to the tank.
Here’s a pic:January 20, 2015 at 3:13 pm #40783
You may want to get a hold of Nick at http://firestonekartinfo.com
He’s done quite a bit of data analysis and can probably help you out. Check out these articles he did on the topic:January 20, 2015 at 3:09 pm #40782
A common problem… mushy brakes that is. When you replaced the seals, did you do the caliper as well as the master cyl?
You may have a very tiny leak near a fitting on the brake lines. Those are tough to find, and it doesn’t take very much air getting sucked-in to cause mushy/fading brakes.January 5, 2015 at 12:24 pm #39909
Need some more details. Are you checking the clutch with the engine running and warm or is it just sitting cold?
Was the clutch properly disengaging before you stored the kart 4 months ago? If so, the cable is probably is set correctly, but it’s easy to check it. Pull the clutch lever and look at the inside of the motor (near seat) to see if it’s moving the clutch engagement lever.
The clutch will always have some bite even when completely disengaged and it’s even more bite when cold (the clutch fluid is very thick when cold). Also, the clutch plates will occasionally stick together when they’ve been sitting still for a long time. You can usually just put it in gear, pull in the clutch and rock the kart back and forth until they break free. It will probably help to start the motor and warm it up for a few minutes.
Hope that helps, but let me know if not and we’ll try a few more things.January 1, 2015 at 4:54 pm #39746
Yep, in fact you can even negotiate on groceries. I’ve never done it, but I’ve witnessed it a few times at checkout.
Keep in mind most kart shops are dealing with small margins to begin with, so you’re wiggle room may be less than buying an expensive TV or car.December 27, 2014 at 4:11 pm #39431
One more type of bog, but probably not the case. Many drivers tend to use too much of the lower power band and the motor bogs when it’s too low in the rpm range. In other words, it’s not ‘on-the-pipe’ when they get on the power. Anyway, if you think you’re too low on the rpm’s, try a lower gearing (or shift down one more) to keep it rev’d up.December 27, 2014 at 4:06 pm #39430
Oh yeah…. has the pump been rebuilt and in good order? That’s often a culprit.December 27, 2014 at 4:05 pm #39429
Can you describe what you mean by bog and which type of turns? There’s a couple types of bogs:
1. motor falls completely flat and feels like it’s sucking air. No power at all. This is usually a severe lean situation at some point in the carb (fuel delivery, pilot, needle, main).
2. motor has some power but is very sluggish (not crisp when getting on throttle). Usually too fat.
I run a cr125 with a pump-around, so I may not be the best to advise you. However, most of the people I’ve known who run a stock carb/pump setup don’t have significant fuel issues coming out of turns. They may hickup or fall-flat in longer turns, but are OK otherwise.
Have you tried different pilot jets? You may be too rich or lean on the bottom end of the jetting? I know you can’t try anything for a while, so you may want to try different jetting setups instead of a pump-around.December 13, 2014 at 3:29 pm #38835
Is it the keihin PWK 38? If so, what does it include? e.g., installed jets, slide, needle, pumps.
RandyDecember 9, 2014 at 4:07 pm #38661
I’ve never seen those sold separately. Call some kart shops to see if they’ve pulled/plugged one and can send you the one that was removed. Or maybe if they have some scratched old 2001 heads laying about, they could just give you that, and then you can transfer one of the spigots to your good cylinder head.
For a quick fix, you can probably find a suitable water fitting at the hardware store.November 21, 2014 at 4:30 pm #37515
Robert, another thing I just considered… if it’s a 2000 to 2002 cylinder (I think?) hold off on removing the plugs. Those years have difficult plugs and can’t simply be re-installed. I believe those have to be glued in place. Anyway, tell us the year of the cylinder and any other details about the ‘blow-ups’ and maybe someone else can chime in with suggestions.
P.S. I could be wrong, but I don’t think the power valve is the reason for the blow-ups. I believe people used to just wire them open and run it that way (before plugs were readily available).November 21, 2014 at 11:05 am #37484
Ooh! sounds worse than I thought. Usually the plugs will have a very slight leak if any. I’d pull ‘em and see what’s up.
What year is the cylinder? If it does need new plugs, you can get the o-ringed type from Swedetech (depending on cylinder year). If the cylinder is modified, you’ll probably need to reshape the new plugs to match. Hope you don’t have to go down that road though.November 20, 2014 at 2:58 pm #37424
Do you mean power valve plug or manifold? I’m assuming you mean power valve because you mentioned ignition side. Yes, it’s common for them to leak, but it’s usually not a huge performance problem… just a mess and it’s hard to do a proper leak test.
If you only put rtv on the exterior, try pulling it from cylinder, swab in rtv and re-install. Be sure to cleanup any excess rtv inside cylinder. If it’s an o-ringed type, put a new o-ring on it.November 20, 2014 at 12:24 pm #37411
Freddy, you may already know this, but thought it worth mentioning….
Michael and Jimmy are talking about 2 different Button willow tracks. 1.47 is for the kart track (Jimmy is the man there for sure) and Michael’s gear combo’s are all for road-racing tracks. 19-24 is for the car track at Button Willow.September 29, 2014 at 12:10 pm #34656
I’m in southern California. Probably a bit too expensive to ship to you. If you want to set it up, I can drop it at a depot. You’d have to arrange the carrier, crates delivered to depot on my end and pay for all in advance.
RandySeptember 28, 2014 at 7:14 pm #34615
Attached pics above…February 2, 2014 at 5:11 pm #20836
I’ve seen quite a few seats where the outer part of the seat lip is cutout where it would touch the motor case (as you’ve described). Not a big deal to cut it if needed. Before you do that, make sure you’re putting the seat in a good location– preferably per factory specs to start. If you don’t have the specs, then go for a comfortable position with you seated. Best to scale the kart after, but you may not have easy access to scales. In any case, comfort will be key to start and then you can play with moving it to get better kart balance. You may want to checkout this site… good info especially if you’re starting out. This page has installing a seat video:
Good luck and have fun!January 22, 2014 at 12:52 pm #20045
Any luck Andrew?
I’m not sure what the back-end mounting points look like on a ’06 First Kart, but most will use the bolt/bushing kit here:
Last year I updated a 2005 tonykart with full width rear bumper. I recommend the quick disconnect mounting kit, though it does weight a tad more than the regular RLV kit:
Also, I was originally going to get the KG bumper (I think??) and Fast-tech told me they are too soft. I went with their recommendation and got the Righetti instead. It’s held up nicely.
I usually deal with Fast-tech or Acceleration karting for parts; they are very good/friendly, but I’m sure you can find these at your local shop if you prefer to support them.November 29, 2013 at 1:21 pm #16760
I think so. He hasn’t picked it up yet, so that’s why I’ve left it as pending. I’ll let you know if it comes back on the market.October 14, 2013 at 11:14 pm #12845
I’m not racing much these days and stopped doing the regional stuff. So I don’t need a backup motor anymore.
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