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  • #38835

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Hey Jordon,

    Is it the keihin PWK 38?  If so, what does it include? e.g., installed jets, slide, needle, pumps.

    Thanks,

    Randy

    #38661

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    I’ve never seen those sold separately.  Call some kart shops to see if they’ve pulled/plugged one and can send you the one that was removed.  Or maybe if they have some scratched old 2001 heads laying about, they could just give you that, and then you can transfer one of the spigots to your good cylinder head.

    For a quick fix, you can probably find a suitable water fitting at the hardware store.

    #37515

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Robert, another thing I just considered… if it’s a 2000 to 2002 cylinder (I think?) hold off on removing the plugs.  Those years have difficult plugs and can’t simply be re-installed.  I believe those have to be glued in place.  Anyway, tell us the year of the cylinder and any other details about the ‘blow-ups’ and maybe someone else can chime in with suggestions.

    P.S.  I could be wrong, but I don’t think the power valve is the reason for the blow-ups.  I believe people used to just wire them open and run it that way (before plugs were readily available).

    #37484

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Ooh!  sounds worse than I thought.  Usually the plugs will have a very slight leak if any.  I’d pull ‘em and see what’s up.

    What year is the cylinder?  If it does need new plugs, you can get the o-ringed type from Swedetech (depending on cylinder year).  If the cylinder is modified, you’ll probably need to reshape the new plugs to match.  Hope you don’t have to go down that road though.

    #37424

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Do you mean power valve plug or manifold?  I’m  assuming you mean power valve because you mentioned ignition side.  Yes, it’s common for them to leak, but it’s usually not a huge performance problem… just a mess and it’s hard to do a proper leak test.

    If you only put rtv on the exterior, try pulling it from cylinder, swab in rtv and re-install.  Be sure to cleanup any excess rtv inside cylinder.  If it’s an o-ringed type, put a new o-ring on it.

     

    #37411

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Freddy, you may already know this, but thought it worth mentioning….

    Michael and Jimmy are talking about 2 different Button willow tracks.  1.47 is for the kart track (Jimmy is the man there for sure) and Michael’s gear combo’s are all for road-racing tracks.  19-24 is for the car track at Button Willow.

    #34656

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Tyson,

    I’m in southern California.  Probably a bit too expensive to ship to you.  If you want to set it up, I can drop it at a depot.  You’d have to arrange the carrier, crates delivered to depot on my end and pay for all in advance.

    Thanks,

    Randy

    #34615

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Attached pics above…

    #20836

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    I’ve seen quite a few seats where the outer part of the seat lip is cutout where it would touch the motor case (as you’ve described).  Not a big deal to cut it if needed.  Before you do that, make sure you’re putting the seat in a good location– preferably per factory specs to start.  If you don’t have the specs, then go for a comfortable position with you seated.  Best to scale the kart after, but you may not have easy access to scales.  In any case, comfort will be key to start and then you can play with moving it to get better kart balance.  You may want to checkout this site… good info especially if you’re starting out.  This page has installing a seat video:

    http://kracer.com.au/bodywork.html

    Good luck and have fun!

    #20045

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Any luck Andrew?

    I’m not sure what the back-end mounting points look like on a ’06 First Kart, but most will use the bolt/bushing kit here:

    http://www.fastech-racing.com/italkart-rear-bumper-bolt-kit-new-style.html

    Last year I updated a 2005 tonykart with full width rear bumper.  I recommend the quick disconnect mounting kit, though it does weight a tad more than the regular RLV kit:

    http://www.fastech-racing.com/righetti-ridolfi-mounting-kit-for-xtr14-rear-bumper.html

    Also, I was originally going to get the KG bumper (I think??) and Fast-tech told me they are too soft.  I went with their recommendation and got the Righetti instead.  It’s held up nicely.

    http://www.fastech-racing.com/righetti-ridolfi-xtr14-rear-bumper-black.html

    I usually deal with Fast-tech or Acceleration karting for parts; they are very good/friendly, but I’m sure you can find these at your local shop if you prefer to support them.

     

     

    #16760

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    I think so.  He hasn’t picked it up yet, so that’s why I’ve left it as pending.  I’ll let you know if it comes back on the market.

    #12845

    Randy McKee
    Participant

    Hey Josh,

    I’m not racing much these days and stopped doing the regional stuff.  So I don’t need a backup motor anymore.

    Randy

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)