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Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 90 total)
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  • #53820

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    I’ve been to the track three times over the past week and I have to say the EVO updated Rotax is awesome.  Still running the old 2004 motor updated to EVO and the performance difference is night and day.  I know they say the EVO kit doesn’t present a performance increase, but my 04 engine is a BEAST now.  Real usable power from 7,000 rpm on.  I’ve been dropping gears sizes and the motor just keeps pulling off the hairpin and the top speed gets faster.

    I’m really blown away by just how good my 04 motor is now.  Its significantly stronger than its ever been and requires a very different approach to driving the course.  It used to be I eased into the throttle to prevent the engine from bogging.  Now I ease into the throttle to prevent the rear wheels from spinning.

    I’m sold.

    #53631

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Yes.  Every electronic box should attach to the bracket with a rubber isolator.  The E-RAVE solenoid only uses one rubber isolator as opposed to two.  All wire looms should be folded back and secured to their respective box with a zip-tie to remove strain from the connector.

    #53442

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    @Ambrose – also be sure you have the isolated spacer between the black EVO mounting bracket and the E-RAVE solenoid.  Without the isolator, the motor vibrations will override the solenoid and close the power valve around 12,000 rpm.

    #53441

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Yes, that’s how I’m running currently and the motors are running very well.  What you’ve explained here re: vacuum/pressure makes sense.  Rotax would do well to explain things like that in the upgrade kit.  When I run into conflicting diagrams without any detailed explanation, its hard to know which one to follow and why.

    #53282

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    So good news today!  I got back to the track and applied everything I researched and it payed off!  So a big thanks to John Kwong and the Calgary Kart Club for the above link.

    The EVO kit ran strong – excellent, snappy, acceleration off the hairpin at GoPro Motorplex.  I had to dampen the E-RAVE solenoid even more to get the vibrations from shutting the RAVE valve and that fixed the 12,000 rpm limit.  The motor was simply the best Rotax I’ve ever driven today.  The track was crap – morning rain and lots of rental kart rubber making the grip low – so the laptimes were off by a few seconds.  But still the powerband improvements of the Rotax EVO was obvious.

    And to put this into perspective: I have two engines.  My main motor is a freshly sealed 2011 with an 09 head. And the other (my practice engine) is an unsealed 2004 that honestly is long in the tooth (probably pushing 40-hours).  Well today I was using the 04 motor and it was a beast.  Easily the best performance this motor has provided in the entire 5-years I’ve owned it.  And more than that, it was the best Rotax experience I’ve had.  The performance today once I hit the tuning was simply awesome.  Can’t wait to try the 2011 race engine!

    So there you have it.  I have to say the end result is very good.  The EVO upgrade was worth it.  I still think some of the engineering is a bit dodgy – like Rotax keeps adding parts to make the old dog work better.  But there’s no denying that in EVO form, the Rotax is the best its ever been.

    So now I’ll keep an eye out for what happens in 2016 once this whole EVO changeover is complete.  I hope Rotax can get everything back on track and rebuild its numbers.

    #53193

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    So I located the above graphic that appears to be the most recent.  It clearly shows the E-RAVE pulse line connects to the lower (metal) nipple now (which is completely opposite from every official EVO launch video and diagram).  Anyways, the lower connection is the one I’m sticking with until I hear or see otherwise.

    #53192

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    #53180

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    I really like the OMP KS-4 suit.  Its affordable and lightweight (Level 1).

    But recently I thought I’d give an OMP Summer-K suit a try.  Its not CIK rated, so you can’t race in it.  But it’s essentially a single-layer cotton overall, styled like OMP’s kart suits.  I use it for practice days (non-official) when its just me at the track.  It fits over your street clothes and is very comfortable on hot days.  Best thing is I take it home and throw it in the washer and dryer with the rest of my clothes and its good to go.

    That said, its safety value is about the same as jeans and a denim long-sleeve shirt.  So keep that in mind.

    #53167

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    So I thought I’d add an update on my EVO experience thus far.  I’ve gotten to the track about three times and I’ve yet to really get my engines performing better than the non-Evo engines did.  I’m hitting that 12,000 rpm ceiling (which at GoPro Motorplex is a lap killer).  I’ve been progressively leaning out the jet and today I was down to 118, which is a little scary as its uncharted territory for me.  Still no top end however.

    Another thing I came across today was conflicting information regarding the pulse line feeding the RAVE valve solenoid (See this thread: http://ekartingnews.com/forums/topic/evo-pulse-line-to-rave-solenoid-which-one-is-it/). I find it hard to believe Rotax isn’t proofing this stuff, or making some in-depth explanations of what mechanically is going on.  Again, it seems as if the kits are just thrown together from parts initially designed for something else and re-purposed to work on the Rotax engine.

    Another example is this little pill added to the pulse line.  It states the pill reduces pressure and makes the RAVE valve open .5 sec later than normal.  Really?  So all this talk and power curve diagrams about the RAVE valve must open at 7600 is BS??  I mean .5 secs later could be as much as 9000-10,000 rpm.  This just reads like really poor engineering IMHO.  It should open at 7600, unless you want it to open at 7900 (remove the ground??). Or, place this pill in the line and it will open half a second later that either of those specs.  The power valve is the Achilles heel of this engine.  The EVO update was supposed to address this.  Now, I’m starting the get the feeling even Rotax doesn’t understand how the thing works.

    Okay, okay… I’m venting a little.  I really wanted to be blown away by the EVO updates and I’m a little disappointed that I’m still changing main jets all day and trying to get the engines to run well.

    On a positive note, when I hooked the RAVE pulse line up to the metal nipple on the bottom of the solenoid, the low-end power increased significantly.  I’m talking better than any of my Senior Rotax have ever run.  But with the lack of top end, I get the feeling all I did was convert my engine to a well-tuned Junior.  LOL!  But I definitely heard the RAVE valve open and the engine start to growl at close to 8000 rpm.  So I don’t know.  Is that the way it supposed to be hooked up? Which diagram is correct??  If I could get bottom end power like that and get this thing to pull to 13,500 rpm, I think I’d start singing the EVO praises.  I’m just not sure what to try next to accomplish that and that has always been the frustrating part of running a Rotax.

    [sigh]

    #52739

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Powder coat.

    No way you can leave it bare.  You’ll only add more work sanding or sandblasting the impurities off the metal before you finally have to powder coat/paint it.

    And paint can’t hold up against the environment in a garage.  You’ll be touching it up constantly.

    #46462

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    I placed my order back in February (one junior and three seniors).  I didn’t hear anything from MaxSpeed until one of the kits was ready to ship last week.  Just as they said, they contacted me for my payment info.

    While on the phone, I asked about the process.  Its a matter of first come – first served based on two things: the current supply of kits and making sure everyone gets one kit before those with more than one motor gets their full request filled.  So when inquiring about my three senior kits, I was told they’d be getting more seniors in this week and I would get one of those.  I then asked if they would eventually fulfill my entire order for the remaining two kits and was told yes.

    So I don’t believe there’s any reason for panic over the EVO update kits.  They just have a lot of people requesting them and have to wait for kits from Rotax.  Remember this is a big update and its worldwide.  Its going to take some time.

    #46193

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Just a heads up: I just had MaxSpeed fulfill my Junior EVO kit today and was told some more senior kits should go out in the next couple of weeks.

    #45628

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Oooh.. starting fluid.  Good tip!

    #45625

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Darren, I run CRG’s and I prefer the feel and longevity of the Ferodo Kart Attack pads to the OEM.  Note: I’m using steel (not ceramic) disks.

    #45009

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    If the bottle is a round unmarked container about 7″ tall its Rotax gear oil. Rotax 2-stroke oil comes in a fancy yellow container (or black if its an older variety). But the 2-stroke oil should have a label branding it Rotax.

    If your mystery oil container doesn’t match either of these discrptions I’d refrain from using it.

    #42666

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Brock,

    Hopping I find usually describes a hopping in the rear brought on by excessive rear grip followed by a quick release of grip and then the tire re-gripping. This causes the kart to hop as the inside rear lifts and sets down repeatly during a corner.  Its fairly excessive and easily felt from the seat.  Hopping can be a handling/tuning issue, or can be brought about by over driving the kart in a corner.  Tuning-wise, its usually brought about by too narrow of a rear width, center of gravity to high, or rear axle too stiff.

    Push-Kick is a severe handling issue where the kart experiences push going into a corner followed by an immediate loose condition when transitioning from brake to throttle.  Its usually indicative of a balance issue (too much weight to the rear) or an overall lack of mechanical grip.

    #40113

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Maybe too late since you have the Haas frame, but I were building a backyard dirt oval I’d look into 1/4 midgets.

    #39988

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Devil’s advocate, ok: By running SKUSA class and rules, they’ve just doubled the number of national-level shifter events in the US.  Plus they’ve made use of what is already the biggest kart race in the US to expand and give karters more bang for the buck in Vegas.  I’m sure most national teams appreciate being able to pack-up and go to Vegas and now have two world-class events plus an expo in one trip.

    I understand the immediate concern. MAXSpeed is Rotax in the US and this is the first time they’ve expanded beyond Rotax Max classes at an event.  But If I were running the SKUSA Pro Tour, I’d be pretty excited by this news for expanding my season and investment while at the same time still supporting SKUSA and their full season.

    Also, it does seem funny that we have one thread complaining about manufacturers and promoters doing their own thing when it comes to rules packages (State of Karting in USA), followed by foul calls in this thread when someone adopts the same rules towards two separate organisations. I hope that irony isn’t lost on others. 😉

    Lastly, (and this is kinda completely off-topic), I’ve never understood why any organisation hasn’t carved up the US into regions and divisions.  Then allow things to take root locally –  regionally – and finally holding division championships funneling up into a single National championship race.  Seems MAXSpeed has the ability to do this.  But instead has what is essentially four or five random and disconnected racing series running over the course of a season.  Note I’m not criticizing the current MAXSpeed commitment, just recognizing that no one has managed to bring the county together under one banner/championship in a most efficient way.

    #39836

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Matt, keep in mind you should let the stop watch be the final indicator as to gearing.  But a Rotax senior should easily rev to over 13,000 rpm.  A well sorted senior should be capable of revving to close to 14,000.  Although that might not be necessary depending on the track.

    #39835

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    CRG 2000-up rear calipers are the same as VEN05 front brake calipers.  So they do share the same pad design.  But be aware that the VEN05 rear calipers (and thus pads) are very different from the 2000-up.

    I have two CRG karts with 2000-up rear braking systems and I prefer the Ferodo Kart Attack pads – for feel, longevity and price.  FWIW.

    Replacement is really simple.  Remove the pad retaining clip and bolt, and pull the old pads out.  Press the pistons all the way back inside the caliper, and insert the new pads. I find removing the master cylinder cover(s) helps the pistons to retract easier.  As long as nothing leaks and the system is working well you’ll be fine.  I’d inspect the brake fluid at the time and flush the system if its dirty, or top it off if its low (after replacing the pads so that the pistons are reset).

    Remember t0 replace the master cylinder covers before you pressurize the system with the pedal.  If you leave the covers off, the fluid will shoot out of the top.

    #39533

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    And the test data begins.  This is encouraging.  Good post Larry.  Thanks.

    #39532

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Typically, CHT is only used on an air-cooled engine (such as a Yamaha KT-100 or Briggs LO206).  If the engine is water-cooled, you want to monitor water temperature.

    As for tuning, a temp probe in the exhaust header measuring exhaust gas temps is preferred.

    #39316

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    I posted in that thread.  But when the thread stopped, I thought I’d start one in the proper Rotax forum to gauge what other Rotax drivers were thinking as this moves forward.

    Like you mentioned, I too am surprised by the lack of posts.  A lot of the 2015 rules packages and schedules are starting to appear and looks as if many are side-stepping the new Evo engines to see how things turn out – which doesn’t bode well for Rotax in 2015 IMO.  My local track is getting behind the X-30 after being a big Rotax supporter (which isn’t surprising considering they’re spear-heading the IAME-East distribution).  Its just bad timing all around as far as Rotax is concerned and I guess that’s going to factor into where I eventually land.

    I wish I’d see more support from the karters, but honestly the lack of it is a bit disconcerting.  Seems the market is speaking – so to speak – and the ball is squarely in Rotax’s court to make this work. Like I said, I’ll be upgrading my motors.  But beyond that, I’m beginning to wonder if at the upgrade price points they’ve release, its still not enough to maintain market share in a what turns out to be pivotal year for brands and alliances.  Time will tell, but If I were Rotax (and MaxSpeed here in the States), I’d be watching, listening, and responding quickly over the next few months.

    I’d still like to hear other’s thoughts on this.

    #39111

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    Maybe by 2016 there can be a class for unsealed engines with starters.  Someplace where older Rotax and Leopards can race.  We can call it TaG. 😉

    #38227

    Eric Alexander
    Participant

    I view the EVO to past 125 MAX motors more like the X30 to the Leopard.  Its meant as a replacement and they took the opportunity to make wholesale improvements.

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 90 total)