Forum Replies Created
April 21, 2015 at 4:59 am #46462
I placed my order back in February (one junior and three seniors). I didn’t hear anything from MaxSpeed until one of the kits was ready to ship last week. Just as they said, they contacted me for my payment info.
While on the phone, I asked about the process. Its a matter of first come – first served based on two things: the current supply of kits and making sure everyone gets one kit before those with more than one motor gets their full request filled. So when inquiring about my three senior kits, I was told they’d be getting more seniors in this week and I would get one of those. I then asked if they would eventually fulfill my entire order for the remaining two kits and was told yes.
So I don’t believe there’s any reason for panic over the EVO update kits. They just have a lot of people requesting them and have to wait for kits from Rotax. Remember this is a big update and its worldwide. Its going to take some time.April 16, 2015 at 12:26 pm #46193
Just a heads up: I just had MaxSpeed fulfill my Junior EVO kit today and was told some more senior kits should go out in the next couple of weeks.April 7, 2015 at 8:58 am #45628
Oooh.. starting fluid. Good tip!April 7, 2015 at 8:55 am #45625
Darren, I run CRG’s and I prefer the feel and longevity of the Ferodo Kart Attack pads to the OEM. Note: I’m using steel (not ceramic) disks.March 29, 2015 at 8:33 am #45009
If the bottle is a round unmarked container about 7″ tall its Rotax gear oil. Rotax 2-stroke oil comes in a fancy yellow container (or black if its an older variety). But the 2-stroke oil should have a label branding it Rotax.
If your mystery oil container doesn’t match either of these discrptions I’d refrain from using it.February 20, 2015 at 5:07 am #42666
Hopping I find usually describes a hopping in the rear brought on by excessive rear grip followed by a quick release of grip and then the tire re-gripping. This causes the kart to hop as the inside rear lifts and sets down repeatly during a corner. Its fairly excessive and easily felt from the seat. Hopping can be a handling/tuning issue, or can be brought about by over driving the kart in a corner. Tuning-wise, its usually brought about by too narrow of a rear width, center of gravity to high, or rear axle too stiff.
Push-Kick is a severe handling issue where the kart experiences push going into a corner followed by an immediate loose condition when transitioning from brake to throttle. Its usually indicative of a balance issue (too much weight to the rear) or an overall lack of mechanical grip.January 8, 2015 at 5:32 pm #40113
Maybe too late since you have the Haas frame, but I were building a backyard dirt oval I’d look into 1/4 midgets.January 6, 2015 at 2:28 pm #39988
Devil’s advocate, ok: By running SKUSA class and rules, they’ve just doubled the number of national-level shifter events in the US. Plus they’ve made use of what is already the biggest kart race in the US to expand and give karters more bang for the buck in Vegas. I’m sure most national teams appreciate being able to pack-up and go to Vegas and now have two world-class events plus an expo in one trip.
I understand the immediate concern. MAXSpeed is Rotax in the US and this is the first time they’ve expanded beyond Rotax Max classes at an event. But If I were running the SKUSA Pro Tour, I’d be pretty excited by this news for expanding my season and investment while at the same time still supporting SKUSA and their full season.
Also, it does seem funny that we have one thread complaining about manufacturers and promoters doing their own thing when it comes to rules packages (State of Karting in USA), followed by foul calls in this thread when someone adopts the same rules towards two separate organisations. I hope that irony isn’t lost on others. 😉
Lastly, (and this is kinda completely off-topic), I’ve never understood why any organisation hasn’t carved up the US into regions and divisions. Then allow things to take root locally – regionally – and finally holding division championships funneling up into a single National championship race. Seems MAXSpeed has the ability to do this. But instead has what is essentially four or five random and disconnected racing series running over the course of a season. Note I’m not criticizing the current MAXSpeed commitment, just recognizing that no one has managed to bring the county together under one banner/championship in a most efficient way.January 3, 2015 at 4:01 pm #39836
Matt, keep in mind you should let the stop watch be the final indicator as to gearing. But a Rotax senior should easily rev to over 13,000 rpm. A well sorted senior should be capable of revving to close to 14,000. Although that might not be necessary depending on the track.January 3, 2015 at 3:44 pm #39835
CRG 2000-up rear calipers are the same as VEN05 front brake calipers. So they do share the same pad design. But be aware that the VEN05 rear calipers (and thus pads) are very different from the 2000-up.
I have two CRG karts with 2000-up rear braking systems and I prefer the Ferodo Kart Attack pads – for feel, longevity and price. FWIW.
Replacement is really simple. Remove the pad retaining clip and bolt, and pull the old pads out. Press the pistons all the way back inside the caliper, and insert the new pads. I find removing the master cylinder cover(s) helps the pistons to retract easier. As long as nothing leaks and the system is working well you’ll be fine. I’d inspect the brake fluid at the time and flush the system if its dirty, or top it off if its low (after replacing the pads so that the pistons are reset).
Remember t0 replace the master cylinder covers before you pressurize the system with the pedal. If you leave the covers off, the fluid will shoot out of the top.December 29, 2014 at 8:29 am #39533
And the test data begins. This is encouraging. Good post Larry. Thanks.December 29, 2014 at 8:27 am #39532
Typically, CHT is only used on an air-cooled engine (such as a Yamaha KT-100 or Briggs LO206). If the engine is water-cooled, you want to monitor water temperature.
As for tuning, a temp probe in the exhaust header measuring exhaust gas temps is preferred.December 23, 2014 at 10:24 am #39316
I posted in that thread. But when the thread stopped, I thought I’d start one in the proper Rotax forum to gauge what other Rotax drivers were thinking as this moves forward.
Like you mentioned, I too am surprised by the lack of posts. A lot of the 2015 rules packages and schedules are starting to appear and looks as if many are side-stepping the new Evo engines to see how things turn out – which doesn’t bode well for Rotax in 2015 IMO. My local track is getting behind the X-30 after being a big Rotax supporter (which isn’t surprising considering they’re spear-heading the IAME-East distribution). Its just bad timing all around as far as Rotax is concerned and I guess that’s going to factor into where I eventually land.
I wish I’d see more support from the karters, but honestly the lack of it is a bit disconcerting. Seems the market is speaking – so to speak – and the ball is squarely in Rotax’s court to make this work. Like I said, I’ll be upgrading my motors. But beyond that, I’m beginning to wonder if at the upgrade price points they’ve release, its still not enough to maintain market share in a what turns out to be pivotal year for brands and alliances. Time will tell, but If I were Rotax (and MaxSpeed here in the States), I’d be watching, listening, and responding quickly over the next few months.
I’d still like to hear other’s thoughts on this.December 18, 2014 at 11:37 am #39111
Maybe by 2016 there can be a class for unsealed engines with starters. Someplace where older Rotax and Leopards can race. We can call it TaG. 😉December 3, 2014 at 9:49 am #38227
I view the EVO to past 125 MAX motors more like the X30 to the Leopard. Its meant as a replacement and they took the opportunity to make wholesale improvements.December 2, 2014 at 12:37 pm #38161
I’ve been expecting something like this ever since that Rotax survey was circulating last year. And honestly, I think everything looks pretty good. With IAME coming on strong and introducing the X30, it was clear Rotax was going to re-engineer the 125 MAX platform. Its proven to be a good platform for the past 15 years. But it was time to make some changes to address consistency and drive-ability issues people had with it. And it looks like that exactly what they’ve addressed.
It would be nice to see some incentives to help existing owners upgrade, but it appears the inventory’s not there to do that just yet. But it wouldn’t surprise me to see something in the future.
The piston is “no-brainer” – and will happen for all future rebuilds regardless.
The carb to me is a must have, as it has always been the source of the jetting issues.
The electronic power valve is a nice feature, but is not that critical as to need it anytime soon on an existing engine (so long as you’re the type that maintains your RAVE valve on a regular basis). So that removes it, and the new ignition coil and box, from the must-have upgrades list.
Same for the exhaust.
All that’s left is the crank and con-rod. That might bite a bit in the rebuild charge, but that’s the biggest chunck of change IMO (and probably a significant portion of the power gains).
Still, the Rotax market is going to be a bit crazy for the next year. The bottom’s going to fall out for alot of spare parts.November 24, 2014 at 5:36 am #37669
Looks like a good read.November 16, 2014 at 5:28 pm #37214
New update: http://www.racer.com/imsa/item/110949-memo-gidley-update-two-more-surgeries-all-going-in-the-right-direction-throttle-down
Also the Robin Miller interview from the Indycar race at Sonoma. So good to hear of his continued progress.November 16, 2014 at 4:42 am #37180
The only difference is the RAVE power valve. But to add that you need a Senior cylinder block. New, the items run about $900 in parts. Now you can find these used. RAVE assemblies run between $75 and $150. Cylinder blocks anywhere from $150 to $400. I’ve recently heard that Rotax has relaxed the cylinder block casting serial number rules, so you should be able to use any year.
Now add to this labor and resealing costs. Thats going to run you another hundred or two. At this point you might consider a top-end rebuild just to match a new cylinder to the new block I.D. That will probably only cost you a hundred more.November 11, 2014 at 5:37 am #36862
I set one of my karts up for a friend. We fit a Tillett T10 XXL seat and so we needed to expand the struts a good bit. I did fit an old axle over the right side strut and bend it outward a bit. Mind you, on this CRG frame it was a bit difficult to move it as to the way the strut is fitted to the frame. But we did end up getting just under an inch of rightward expansion. We scaled the kart and still had more weight left than right, so it was the right thing to do. With a driver of his size you’re already over weight minimums, so no chance to add weight and re-balance without that weight penalizing you’re laptime.
Best of luck.October 18, 2014 at 8:18 pm #35532
I’d be on the fence about the frame. The price point is good considering its a 2013 kart, but that frame has been raced hard to get that amount of flat-spotting in a single season. If it were me, that amount of flat spotting would bother me. But again, a 2013 Tony Kart is going carry some value regardless. In the end its up to you, But I think you can find an older kart in much better shape for the same – if not less money. $2500 to $3000 can buy a nice used kart if you’re patient and look hard enough.
I’d also listen to guys about buying a kart serviced by your local track. And also about buying one already set-up for the engine class you intend to run.September 12, 2014 at 1:50 pm #33563
Absolutely! Thanks Troy.September 12, 2014 at 12:31 pm #33561
Some days I have waayyy to much time. LOL!September 11, 2014 at 2:05 am #33463
Great to know. Thanks!September 10, 2014 at 3:24 pm #33454
Here’s some pictures to underline what I’m asking about.
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