Forum Replies Created
July 2, 2015 at 7:39 am #50872
Any karting shop in your area should be able to mount a seat, at the right angle and the ride height.
Not difficult to do at all, gotta find the seat he feels comfortable with, fits perfectly snugged ( not lose, not choking him to death ) Put all your weights towards the bottom, etc.
But if what you’re looking for is a service, then look them up around your town, there should be a few shops in New Jersey. Otherwise just ask how to do it with us guys here, just give us enough info on the kart size, kid size, height and weight, engine package you’re running, etc.June 30, 2015 at 10:27 pm #50773
Your issue may just be bad tires, swap the 2 front tires 1st, if no changes, then swap the back ones if it changes then that’s your problem. If not, then swap your 2 front hubs and bearings ( if it has front hubs )
Those old tires are really dry and probably shrunk one more than the other, just like Jim mention, if it was flat for a long time.
I personally never use a set of tires that are older than 1 or 2 months, if yours are older than a year, or 2, then toss them and install new ones, you’ll love your kart and now you’ll have a fresh starting point for set ups.
And yes, most chassis are repairable, unless the impact when wrecked was really hard. But I would try the things I suggested 1st, and then we’ll know what to do next. Please keep us posted and share with us what happened after your process of elimination. Good luck. Fast Freddy. 😉June 30, 2015 at 8:13 am #50729
I agree with TJ, but another important thing to consider is: Is it a tire pull, or a geometry issue?
Best way to find out swap the 2 front tires around and drive it again, make sure your tire pressure is equal, if it pulls to the opposite side then it’s a tire, but if it continues to pull, then it’s mechanical.
Check your king pins, check your caster, I bet that kart was wrecked and the wheel is bent, the kart may pull if it has negative caster, or set back, and will vibrate if the wheel is slightly bent or the tire is out of balance.
Try swapping the front tires first and see what happens, if it still pulls, then give it more positive caster on the right side (if it’s adjustable) if not take it to someone who has knowledge of alignments, installing pills, straightening chassis on a table, etc.June 26, 2015 at 7:44 am #50578
There are a few things you can do, to set up a kart for him, but the big question is: How fast are his reflexes, reaction time, Is he pretty sharp and aware, quick to react? I know that his legs are not functional as you stated above, but it is extremely important to know his sharpness to be able to judge if he can drive or not.
It is a big deal and a safety issue, you really don’t want him getting hurt or others.
Now moving on to the options hoping that he is capable and able to control the kart and speeds.
There was a video posted here sometime last year, and I’m pretty sure it’s on youtube.com, in fact he posted a few videos, step by step, showing how to build all the linkages for hand controls, he also built a crane to help him pick himself up and drop back inside his kart. He had no use of his legs at all.
Please understand that I don’t have a lot of info about this kid, and I can only give you a few pointers, based on the info you gave us, but if everything looks good, and he can do it, then there are a few options and yes, it is very possible to get him to drive and have fun like a normal kid would.
Please give us more info. Here’s a video
Hope this helps.June 12, 2015 at 11:35 pm #49794
Try these, I wouldn’t mess around too much, your master cylinder most likely will be just as bad as your calipers, don’t cut corners with braking systems.June 12, 2015 at 1:23 pm #49784
I have a complete KT100
Do you wanna trade? Or I can just buy the kart out right?
Please let me know, I’ll pay the shipping.June 12, 2015 at 10:10 am #49777
Now that you posted pics of the caliper bore, I can see that those calipers are pretty much done.
Righetti Ridolfi makes some real nice ones, and are not too expensive
Try acceleration.com or Fastech-racing.com
Or ebay.June 11, 2015 at 10:28 am #49726
Measure the seal’s outside diameter, and decide which one is closest to you, then order from Fastech-racing.com
Most likely it will be either 19MM or 21MM, and those calipers were made by SKM for Hasse, if I’m not mistaken. Here’s a link. Good luck. Fast Freddy. 😉June 8, 2015 at 11:32 am #49548
The best one man kart stand I’ve owned was made by KartLift, and it was the none electric one, just leverage and shocks operated ( I loved it!!!! )
I bought it back in the day when my 18 year old was a baby, and it lasted me forever. The only issue is that back in those days rear plastic bumpers had not been invented yet, so the hooks were designed for a tube bumper.
But that’s not a problem, they do come with the new bumper style hooks now.
Look into it, you won’t regret it. Easy to operate, and very light, plus it folds into a little flat frame box.
In my opinion the big electric stands were a good idea, but being so big, bulky and heavy, not to mention slowwwwww, and it throws your back trying to lift it or moving it around, makes the initial thought of saving your back useless. Most guys at my track that have those things are always in the way, we all have to wait for them to finish unloading their karts before we can set our karts down, and trying to move them out of the way is a pain in the butt. Sorry if I offended any electric kart stand owners, that’s my opinion on those things, but what doesn’t work for me may work for somebody else. Fast Freddy.June 3, 2015 at 5:13 pm #49293
Just buy carpet padding, and patio carpet (grey or black boat carpet) from lowes or home depot, buy a tube of yellow weather strip glue, buy a razor blade.
Cut to fit pieces to make your seat a 1/4 padded seat, glue foam padding to seat so that it will stay on the seat first while you work on wrapping the carpet around the padding and roll it over the inside lip of the seat edges, your carpet should be about 1 inch to 1 1/2 longger than the foam. Drill the holes through the carpet, the same place they were. Re install the seat after drying off glue, tighten all bolts. That puppy will look factory quality when done.
And live happily ever after. FastFreddy. 😉June 1, 2015 at 10:21 am #49155
Bryan! just use bulldozer yellow tape, or caution tape, that way people will know when you’re coming to plow all the karts out off the track. LolMay 30, 2015 at 6:43 pm #49113
Lol. No worries, Mr Giff
I can forward the emails, and tell her to send you her pics instead, it’s never too late.
Dave, thank you for taking care of it.May 22, 2015 at 2:47 pm #48737
I use maxima chain wax, and it works ok, but it’s a pain in the but to clean up afterwards.
Motul and triflo make an awesome product that works very well
This little guy works wonders, and it’s guey http://www.tsracing.com/store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=487&CATID=7May 21, 2015 at 7:10 pm #48670
I have at least 2 if not 3 of those Tony Kart Mgnesium mounts Cliff is talking about, that were specifically made for that chassis. You can probably drill some holes to make it a 4 cycle bolt pattern.
You can have them for $65 bucks, plus shipping, if you’d like.May 19, 2015 at 2:34 pm #48501
Brian, this is very simple, and Rob hit it right in the nail
Another thing to consider is that new sprockets aren’t very accurate, even the one piece types, what I found out most of the time is that they won’t even fit perfectly on the hub, so I always make an effort to shave off any imperfections from the machining on the inside with a rat file or an oval shape file, just go around the whole circle (inside of bothe halves) gentilly and evenly and will fit like a glove.May 19, 2015 at 2:07 pm #48499
This is extremely easy to do
Order a 15 degree engine mount from BMI karts, these are extremely adjustable, and will fit any European and American karts (universal)
You can adjust 2 to 3 notches on any direction, front back or side.
You may wanna give them a call 1st, as I don’t see any 15 degree mounts available, but they used to have them by the ton.
And yes, that chassis will do just fine with a 4 cycle engine, you may have to cut the rear crossmember or bend it a little, to clear the inboard rear sprocket.http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Degree-Angled-Motor-Mount-for-Honda-Briggs-Clone-Predator-Engines-Go-Kart-/221292508160
Here’s a link to that mount, hope this helps. Fast FreddyMay 7, 2015 at 12:40 pm #47802
Tory, welcome to the sport. There will be days when you show up to the track to play, and some others when you just have a hard time and just wrench
Don’t get discouraged, this happens to all of us, soon or later.
Please tell me how exactly you bleed the front brakes. Did you use the tool for gravity feed? If not then that could be a problem, you can’t really pump that system like a car.
Usually master cylinders should be rebuilt right about the same time.May 4, 2015 at 7:38 pm #47580
Listen to people’s advice here. It will be very beneficial to you
I honestly agree with buying a brand new starter, or a good used one. You will be very thankful in the long run
Not to mention Trying to set up your kart to direct drive will take you to a whole new level of steep learning experience, and may be too difficult for you to adjust, especially if you’re new.
$200.00 bucks is not too bad at all. You may be able to find an old one on ebay, and just install a new battery from the lawn and garden at walmart for less than that.May 4, 2015 at 5:57 pm #47575
My buddy has a complete set, except hoses or MC
I really do not know if they are for a Top Kart or OTK
You should call him (661) 805-7004 OrvilleApril 29, 2015 at 2:43 pm #47218
All you’ve gotta do is not get too closed to me, give me more room at the pit turn, horse shoe turn, and stay behind me the whole time
That way you wont have to worry about those cute graphics. Lol Fast Frreddy.
No, with all kidding aside, yeah I would use brake cleaner, carb cleaner or a rag with gasoline and rub on it a little bit, try not to over do it, just like TJ said, or else it will remove the clear coat and part of the color.
There is also a product out there designed to protect graphics, I think it’s called helicopter tape (clear tape ) Last time I checked on ebay, from a guy down in Orange county Cali. Hope that helps, buddy
P.S. The only graphics you’ll have to worry about with me is your front bumper ones, that’s of course if you get closed enough. Lol Sorry. FastFreddyApril 20, 2015 at 2:03 pm #46436
I used to have a really nice and clean CRG cadet shifter kart, a few years ago
I think I found it again, I really think this is the one, as it still has all my stickers. ( That’s too funny!!! )
Anyhow, please give this guy a call, just trying to help. Good luck, FastFreddy. 😉March 30, 2015 at 2:49 pm #45080
I think I may know what you’re talking about, but Could you please upload some pictures, so that we can see what’s actually happening?
Thank you, Fast Freddy. 😉March 28, 2015 at 9:11 am #44987
Hope this helps, you can always install a new graphic set over the unwanted color. Fast Freddy. 😉March 27, 2015 at 12:01 pm #44961
It all depends on what your budget is, where you’re gonna race at, club level, regional, or National?
Another thing to consider is. How is the track you’re gonna be racing at?
Short, sprint and tight? Long straight aways, or short straight aways? Bumpy or smooth, slick or gripy?
You stated on your ad as What the best chassis would be?
That can open a can of worms, as people will actually recommend the highest level of competition chassis available, with out thinking about the price tag.
Anyhow, let us know, and welcome back to the sport. Fast Freddy. 😉March 25, 2015 at 2:04 pm #44816
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