Forum Replies Created

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 65 total)
  • Author
  • #33860


    Not sure about the specific code, but I believe it is called ” DAY GLOW ORANGE? “




    Those look like inserts/timeserts

    They’re usually pressed in, as you can see most likely they were pressed in at the factory, at the desired hight.

    I would totally cover the holes with masking tape, or find 2 bolts of the same pitch, screw them in, or better yet find a bolt with a wide head that will match the flat side of the thread flush, screw it in, tape the end that will stick out the other side and remove them when powder coating is finished, cut and trim with a brazor blade some of the burr, left over paint so that it won’t chip away, not to mention it will look neat.

    Hope that helps.



    Pictures please!

    Most of the time you can get away by using masking tape in all holes before you send out your chassis.

    But it would really make it a lot easier if you could post pictures of your stuff, to be able to help and advice you better.



    Most people who carry TM, Rotax, Motori 7, Vortex, etc. Will probably be able to get all the parts you need

    I had a blueprinted TM Moto, back in the day

    And George Barks would carry most parts, or could find availability

    Also Italian Motors should be able to help with that.

    Hope that helps.



    Please describe the type of track you’re running at, for a better advise

    How wide is the rear track when you measure from inside of axle, outside to outside of wheel?

    How many spacers do you have on the front spindles?

    Is this a real small sprint track, dirt track, or long track?

    What year and model chassis is this?

    Do you have front and rear torsion bar?

    I really wanna help, but I need to know more info about it.



    Your bolt is too short

    This is very common when installing a new bracket for the new bumper style

    You need to buy 2 new longer bolts of the same kind and go into town with it again

    Unless otherwise as stated by Walt, there is a big possibility that the nut inside the mount fell off, and you will need to remove the rubber mount to get to it.

    Easiest way to find out is to remove the bracket, and install the bolt by itself, and see if it starts going, and far enough to tighten up. If it does then determine the length needed to finalize the job, including the space needed for your bracket. Merry Christmas

    Fast Freddy.





    They are located in Redlands Ca, only 1.5 hours from your house

    Most caliper seals you can buy at an auto parts store ( from a real wheel cylinder rebuild kit )


    Hope this helps. Fast Freddy




    How much is this chassis, and How much would it be to ship to Cali 93308 ( commercial ) ?

    Sorry, Tried to PM you, but will not go through.



    Your caliper pistons and seals are most likely full of corrosion and build up.


    look at the pistons closely before any amount of brake pedal is applied, look at the distance the caliper pistons are at.

    Drive the kart and get it to act up, then look at the distance and see how much further the pistons are sticking out

    I almost wanna put money down that your calipers and master cylinders are in need of rebuilding, or a good honing and cleaning.

    Try duplicating the problem, as I suggested first, paying close attention to the calipers first, if you confirm that the pistons are not returning, then take the calipers apart, and master cylinder, and rebuild them, flush and bleed them, and good to go.



    Matt, TJ, and Brian

    Thank you for your help, you’re right, we’ll just have to test while running the race. We have 3 heat races to adjust, and the main event is the most important one.

    I will definitely tell my son about keeping his arms straight and steer with minimal effort and with more gentleness.

    Thank you all.



    Thank you all for your input, we’ve been working on different driving styles, and are fully awared of sensitivity steering, and we also know that OTK’s are very soft and sensitive.

    All of you guys are right, we’re trying all we can, including different driving lines and styles

    The rear width was at 45″ we brought it out to 55″

    Front had big fat spacer and 2 small spacers ( we removed fat spacer, and placed it outside)

    Front torsion bar is the oval shape tubing kind, not blade type ( it is horizontal, flat against floor pan)

    Please note that all the adjustments we’ve done, like retightening of front torsion bar, front nerf bar, rear track to 55″ all remains to be tested, I still don’t know what the result will be till this weekend ( race day ) Not much time to test. Lol. I just wanna be able to glide smoothly, with out bouncing/hopping so much.

    Do these karts like high air pressures?

    Thank you all, again for your help.




    How much do you want for a 50MM Neutral OTK axle?

    And Is it factory original OTK? or aftermarket for OTK karts?

    Please PM me with answer, or email me some pictures to FASTRACERFREDDY@AOL.COM



    I’m not sure, Allan

    Last time they produced a track magic was around 06, if I remember correctly

    Please post a picture of the brakes, and I’ll tell you rightaway, they are very unique

    I still think you would be a whole lot better off with the CRG.



    Just drive the darn thing! Lol

    We experience 105 to 115 degrees here in Bakersfield California decert

    And also at Button Willow Raceway, along with Willow Springs raceway, and some times is pretty humid.

    Sorry, I’m just feeling smarty today, LOL

    Bo is right, there are a few cooling shirts and underware to keep you cooler to some degree, and it does make a difference, by lowering the temps a bit

    I would try that stuff before I spray anything on my clothes or flesh

    The water system, of liquid cooling system seems a little complicated, and as mentioned previously, it’s just another thing to go wrong with. Fast Freddy.




    The Track Magic was an awesome American made chassis in it’s time, along with the newer Margay chassis, in my opinion

    But sadly went out of business, and support or replacement parts would be a bit of an issue, but not impossible, as there are lots of new and used parts available out there

    The only issue I had with them was the primitive front and rear brake system, very old and outdated, I also noticed that Sodi Karts had the same brakes as the Track Magic

    I would totally stick with the CRG, and if you want to go newer, then just buy a newer CRG, they are proven winners, and supported almost anywhere, and not to mention parts are readily available almost in any race shop or online store.

    That’s just my 2 cents, hope that helps….. Fast Freddy.





    You don’t need all those extra parts, with springs and pistons, just clean, hone and install new seals with assembly lube, or brake fluid.

    You can find all those seals at FASTECH-RACING.COM

    Just go on the menu for brake group

    And select the desired diameter ( they all come in MM increments )

    These guys are really good, and ship super fast.

    Good luck



    Hi, Stu

    What part of Michigan are you going to? Zip code?

    I may be interested

    Please let me know. Fast Freddy.



    There was a guy selling one, here in the forum,  not too long ago ( 2 to 3 weeks? )

    Go to the miss classifieds.

    Good luck.



    Here’s your bleeding procedure

    Go to the store and buy a turkey baster, remove the rubber squeeze ball on top and throw it away

    Remove the top screw at rear master cylinder/pump, turn and screw in tip of turkey baster

    Fill it up like a funnel, all the way to the top

    Remove the top screws Walt said at the rear calipers, you can only bleed the top ones

    Pick up the kart from the front and put a 4×4 under the frame to create higher level

    Let the fluid run at the caliper top bolts and pay close attention to the turkey baster, not to run dry. I would run 2 cycles of the funnel to clean all that junk out, and to make sure no more air is in the system.

    Put the screw back in at the top part whichever rear caliper you decided to bleed first

    Repeat the same procedure at the other side caliper.

    Seal the other side caliper bleed screw when done, please remember never to run the turkey baster funnel dry, in fact when you’re done, please make sure there’s a bit left inside of it, so that when you remove funnel it will drain out of it, rather than not having enough fluid and letting air into the master cylinder.

    When turkey baster/funnel removed, please re install filler screw back to master cylinder, make sure no debris goes inside, and pay attention so that washer or seal is still in good shape

    Rear brake system completed, Congratulations, now move on to front brake system:


    Remove piece of 2×4 from front of kart

    Remove front master cylinder filler screw, install that FAMOUS TURKEY BASTER

    Remove 2 front caliper top allen head bolts, fill up turkey baster with brake fluid

    This may be a bit harder to bleed, since level is about the same for gravity bleed

    Blow with your mouth on top of that famous turkey baster to force fluid flow

    Sometimes you gotta do that to get’em going

    Same procedure, just do 2 cycles and seal it back up, and be done with it.

    That’s my 2 cents, good luck!

    If that doesn’t work, then by the look of your calipers on the outside, then you may have to take all the calipers apart, hone them and rebuild the seals, and master cylinder too

    And when you’re done, go back to your new best friend

    ( THE TURKEY BASTER!!!!!!!!!! )

    Fast Freddy.




    Yeah, I agree, Remove some caster too

    And that would be a good starting point to start tuning the chassis



    Fix your rear track to 54.5

    If you have a rear torsion bar, remove it and throw it in the trash can

    Remove front torsion bar and save for other time

    Remove another small spacer from front inside spindle, and put it outside

    Try that and let us know what happened

    This should be a good start. My 2 cents.

    Fast Freddy.



    How wide is the rear track? From outside wheel lip to outside wheel lip?

    What engine are you running?

    Are you running seat struts?

    Are you running front and rear torsion bars?

    I can give you some advise, but I need those answers first. Fast Freddy.



    Amen to that!!!!!

    That’s already a blessing in itself

    That is priceless, keep doing what you’re doing, and if the boy keeps doing well, then that’s awesome.

    And if he won once, he can do it again with your support and encouragement.





    If the kart still kicks butt just drive the darn thing, and let it enjoy life some more

    And if the scaling is off, but not too bad, just try to compensate for it, and go kick some more butt

    I absolutely enjoy seeing a low budget kart kicking butt.

    In my book, if it’s not broken don’t fix it, if it works great, and handles awesome, and will do whatever you want it to do, then just drive it, don’t change anything.


    Sometimes my Son has issues with his kart, and after we find something that he’s happy with, we stick with it. I ask him if it made any difference? And he sais I LOVE IT, PLEASE DON’T CHANGE ANYTHING.

    So there you go. A kart could be out of whack and  maybe undriveable to me, but sometimes with his driving style he can make it drive like if that piece of junk is on traction control!!! Smooooth operator.

    So if he likes it, and he does very well with it, and gets good results?

    Then use it and abuse it till he’s ready for an upgrade. My 2 cents




    That’s what I was wondering, and I also think you’re right with the chassis not being accurate right out of the box.

    They almost look like a good kart, but unfortunately the chassis is not designed to twist and flex like the Top Quality brand names.

    Sorry, James, not trying to sound negative, but you may be fighting something that could be a bit frustrating

    You could try to fix it and make it drivable and fun, who knows? it may be a good handling kart after all, but know that it may not last, and  TJ  is right, it was designed to be affordable for a low budget and an entry level chassis.


    What engine package are you running, James?

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 65 total)