Forum Replies Created
November 25, 2014 at 7:28 pm #37768
The original metal bumper usually is fastened a little tighter, I’ve noticed
All of our karts with plastic rear bumpers are left lose to keep them from binding ( you don’t want them tight )
But for cadet karts I don’t know how it will affect the handling being a smaller frame.
Best you can do is drive it with it tight, and then try leaving it lose next session, and see how your little racer likes it
Technically it should change something, as the old bumper is so tight
If anything the kid will be faster, as the kart frees up on the corners. But hey, give it a try and see how you like it.
P.S. When I say lose, I really mean lose, It should rattle up and down when you tap it with your fingers. My 2 cents Fast Freddy.November 24, 2014 at 7:29 pm #37701
I have always used master links with ZERO failures in all my years of karting, and would not think about it twice
Super nice to have the ability to adjust chain leghth if needed when running different gear ratio.
Just make sure you install it properly with the opening side facing towards the back at the top part of the chain ( away from any possibilities of opening up while rubbing on any parts )November 24, 2014 at 7:07 pm #37698
Finish the old fuel first, or wait till you can top the tank off
And then start with a new batch at 60z per gallon (it is ok to mix 1/4 to 1/2 a tank) if anything it will run better. Considering the fact that you’ve already ran the engine on this fuel with no issues?
You can always mix new fuel in the tank with new fuel from your jug
But I highly recommend that you mix your 5 gallons of new fuel first
If lack of containers is an issue, then keep the old fuel in a lawn equipment container, that way your 5 gallon jug is empty and free from old fuel mixture
You could always use the rest for your weed eater or blower.
If I understood your question correctly, then this would be my answer.November 21, 2014 at 8:19 pm #37536
I have never driven an Allkart before, so I couldn’t tell you how good or bad they are
But for your 2nd question goes, I can totally help you with
A cadet kart is so short and small that if you are an adult driver, you could not fit in it, even if you tried, you would have to sit on top of the seat to drive it.November 21, 2014 at 8:05 pm #37535
I agree with TJ
Our home track is extremely hard on tires, and you can see that type of tire wear a lot, unfortunately most guys like to go with the softer axle, so yeah it will develop inside shoulder tire wear.
You can avoid tire wear on the front by creating more positive camber, but it will sacrifice some of the handling.
And as for the rear goes, there is really no way around it, unless you install a harder axle, it will in fact reduce the inside tire wear, but will of course create a change in your tuning.
Some times is more important to win a race if it costs you a set of tires, rather than conserving the tires and finishing towards the back.
We can only do a 3 heat race per set of new tires, and after that they’re pretty much good for a CAN race, or hot laps, or practice (once we flip them over, they’re good to go) My 2 cents.
And yes, I know! You’re right Jim, I should start paying a royalty fee for over posting here
But my name looks so pretty on every topic, and every section of this forum
Looks like a Christmas tree. So pretty!November 21, 2014 at 7:38 pm #37532
Cut the hose behind the seat, and install it there, closer towards the engine (right side of the seat)
Should give you enough clearance to reach the cable to the engine.
DON’T CUT THE HOSE TILL YOU’RE ABSOLUTELY SURE IT’S GONNA WORK.November 20, 2014 at 6:21 pm #37442
Man! you guys are lucky!
I have a local race the same weekend
Do you guys hit Laguna Seca also? I’m planning to go there in January.November 20, 2014 at 6:08 pm #37441
When you see a F1 car, or an Indy car the front wing being adjusted for more down force at the front, it normally helps you to corner a lot better by creating more weigh to the front wheels for road courses, and some rather smaller tracks, but this is a different kind of weight.
This weight is applied directly to the front wheels, body and suspension created by aerodynamic down force, that will eventually affect the steering axis tilt.
In karting it is a totally different animal, as you can’t ad weights to each wheel or each corner of each axle, you can only place weights to certain spots of your seat, floor pan and chassis, Plus the behavior of a kart chassis and its flexibility is by far unlike a race car, as there is no suspension, yes the chassis flexes in a way as if they did have suspension, but they don’t.
So that being said, they do not rely on upper and lower control arms (wish bone suspension), both front and rear, with ball joints that helps keep the steering hubs/knucles and tires in place, as the vehicle travels up and down. Go karts flex up and down in a way, but do not travel freely since there’s drag at the bottom of the tires, so we’re constantly pushing on the rubber, then eventually the kart slides, glides and rotates.
I would love to ask you what it is that you’re trying to achieve? So that we may understand a little better, and decide where to go with your question.
Unfortunately I am not a scientific, but we can give it our best shot in trying to help you. But I am really curious to know what your plans are, that way we can share the geometry and the physics of race cars and race karts.November 20, 2014 at 1:12 pm #37415
That’s what I’m talking about, as I’m planning to run a few events at the big tracks.
What club do you guys race with? I may be seeing you soon?
I still race here locally with the KT100’s, but I miss my shifter karts, and I really wanna do the Road Race Tracks.
Thanks for all your input. Fast Freddy.November 20, 2014 at 11:09 am #37402
Thank you, Michael!
Very good info, I really appreciate it. Very helpful
I run 5 inch tires for the typical sprint shifter karts
Either Bridgestone YLC’s or MG Yellow’sNovember 20, 2014 at 11:05 am #37401
Thank you, Kerry.
Very good info, and yes, you’re right with weather conditions and elevation in Laguna Seca. It will still cold in January, and jetting may be a factor for me, but I’ll start fat, and then work my way down, and see what works best.
I just don’t wanna stuck the top end again, while the motor is screaming down the hill, or up hill.November 20, 2014 at 10:59 am #37398
Thank you, Michael
That makes a lot of sense, especially when running Laguna Seca in January.
It will still be cold out there, and there is some elevation as well.
Very good info, Thank you.November 19, 2014 at 10:38 pm #37386
I know this question is directed to TJ, and I do respect that
But I couldn’t help but to ask a little more, just to be clear, as I am very curious about it now.
Are we talking coning ( inside shoulder tire wear) In all 4 tires? or just 1 or 2, or fronts, or rear?
Please specify. With all seriousness I really interested on this topic.November 19, 2014 at 5:58 pm #37369
Race those events you’re planning to do first
And see how you like it, ask the people at the track about all kinds of classes, ask the people at the track, in the club, engine builders, all other racers, and see what their opinions and thoughts are.
Then come back and check back with us again.
You have plenty of time to decide future racing classes and you will also have new questions.
Right now concentrate on your upcoming event, and after that we’ll focus on what’s next.
I do care about new people getting started in the sport, and I really wanna help as much as possible, but these questions are way too advanced for now.
Please don’t be offended, but approach it this way first, and then we’ll have something to talk about. Fast Freddy.November 19, 2014 at 12:16 pm #37347
Andy, Patrick, and Mike.
All your input is greatly appreciated. And yes, I will totally figure out what went wrong before I go back together with new or used parts.
Patrick, The spark plug looks dark grey inside the electrode, but the gap got bent with all the contact it made with pieces of ring and chunks of the piston.
However it is grey in color, but not wetNovember 19, 2014 at 9:31 am #37334
Thank you, guys for your input
I will take both suggestions into consideration
Thanks a lot.
Oh! One more question, before I repair my engine, and keep from happening again.
What would cause my piston to get melted on top, right at the exhaust port? Missing about 1/2 inch.
I currently run a Pump Around carb, double pump system, 55 and 170 jets, 6 oz to the gallon pre mix. Etc.November 18, 2014 at 7:54 pm #37321
It’s really easy
Just feed the cable through the bottom of the clutch handle, stick it through the steering wheel and tighten the end of the cable stopper ( clamp )
And be done with it.
The guy that sold it to you may have re assemble the cable to keep pieces from getting lost.
It’s not that hard, this is a reverse cable system, where the clutch handle pulls the cable housing away from the steering wheel ( away from the clamp end )
Just adjust it at your desired pull and go play.
P.S. The cable most likely goes though the hub and steering wheel at the same hole. You’ll get it. Don’t make me travel all the way to Arizona.November 18, 2014 at 6:05 pm #37317
At 16 years of age you qualify to race with the big guys
I would strongly suggest to start with Yamaha KT100 at the Senior class , or a TAG class with Rotax, Leopard, etc 125cc class.
I urge you to give the local track a phone call, or send them an email to see what’s available to you.
All of us here at the forum are from many different states ( Nation Wide )
But also have racers from all over the world. So every state, every town in the same state may have totally different classes from anything I could recommend to you. That’s why it is so important to contact them and see what they run there, and how big the class is.
I downsized on my shifter karts ( we had 4 of them ) because there was no class in my town ( local track ) and I also liked the club here where they ran spec Yamaha KT100, not to mention I’m getting older, and shifter karts are brutal to drive at sprint tracks, even with my years of experience.
It all depends what club you wanna race in.
NorCal kart club has a nice mixture of venues that include shifter karts 125cc and 80cc, along with the TAG karts. And the do a lot of big track races (Road Racing), which involves racing at big tracks where Indy Cars, and race cars run.
But once again, You need to contact them, as there are way too many classes for us to give you a good advise.
If I were you, I would go to that arrive and drive program that you already are scheduled to do anyway, and while you’re there, I would totally talk to people and ask them about the club, the types of karts and engine packages you should run, and the ones that are more fun and enjoyable to do that will suit you.
And once you do your first arrive and drive event, a lot of your thinking is gonna be different from our recommendations here at the forum, and will also open your eyes and may decide that you like a different engine package or a different class.
I can tell you form a personal experience, I’ve ben driving tons of different karts, engine packages, many different chassis manufactures, and when I made the change from shifter karts to KT100’s, I thought I was gonna dominate the competition! Well let me tell you I GOT MY BUTT KICKED LEFT AND RIGHT. As it was a steep learning curve for me, but I got better at it with more seat time, and tuning my kart differently, and changing my driving style. I will honestly say that a KT100 will really teach you how to drive.
My 2 cents. Fast Freddy.November 17, 2014 at 11:54 pm #37284
It’s all good, buddy. Check the cable (internally) they do go bad and get rusty and start binding
A new cable may be all you need, but please check your clutch lever operation as well
I saw another kart with the same set up as yours, and it totally goes through the steering wheel
The end of the cable came to the surface and had a cable clamp, with the excess left over cable zip tied to one spoke of the steering wheel.
Honestly I don’t think the newer karts you’ll see in Vegas may have this set up, but I could be wrong.
Here’s a link to that kart, check out the steering wheel on the right side bellow the MychronNovember 17, 2014 at 7:52 pm #37275
I think in Nor Cal the 3 top classes are Stock Honda Cr125 shifter karts, Cr80 shifter karts, and Tag karts, not sure if there’s still a class for the ICC shifter karts or open class for 125 shifters.
May be worth giving them a call to see what classes are available, and the quantities of race entry/participants.
You’re right, the MotoX will help you a lot in terms of shifting gears, and multitasking, but with shifter karts you will experience a much faster pace, a lot more shifting up and down, a lot heavier G forces at the corners. Overall things will happen a lot faster, things will come at you a lot quicker, RPM’s will be a bit higher, as these motors like to be on the pipe.
Anyway the speeds are incredible crazy around the corners, and when chassis is properly tuned they are a blast, and lots of fun to drive.
I noticed you mentioned you have driven the TAG karts at Sonoma, just think of it as double the work to drive the shifter karts. And if you’re ok with that, then welcome to the challenge
I would totally start with a Yamaha KT100 clutch kart, then move up to a Tag Kart or a CR80cc shifter kart before jumping straight to the 125cc shifter karts, but who knows? You might be a very fast learner. I just wouldn’t race right away till at least I had 1/2 a season of practice under my belt.
Some of the guys that race at the nationals are pretty much perfect, and almost never miss a beat/shift, they really are accurate drivers, and would eat me alive at my age.
But yeah, contact the track at Sonoma and find out what club runs there and at any of the surrounding tracks, and ask them about the classes they run ( you don’t wanna buy the wrong kart/engine package) Only to find out there’s no class for it, or the numbers of entry are too small.
Those are my 2 cents, hopefully that helps you. Fast Freddy.November 17, 2014 at 6:00 pm #37271
Did you get it to work?
Hopefully I helped more than I confused you?
If not, shoot me an email, we can keep on trying till we get it done.
Fast Freddy.November 17, 2014 at 5:54 pm #37270
Welcome to the sport
Where in California are you located at? And what are the tracks near you?
Shifter karts may be a handful to start with, as they are brutal to drive, and if you’re new to karting you could get discourage very quickly, especially when you run into carburation problems.
How old are you? How tall? and how much do you weigh?November 15, 2014 at 11:10 pm #37178
That’s my little kart. Lol..
Consider it a done deal, I’ve got your cashy here.November 15, 2014 at 10:10 pm #37171
Let’s do it
When can we meet?
Are you guys coming to the Pro Race, by any chance?
If not I can come down and meet you somewhere. Thank you Wayne!
Got any pics? my cell phone (858) 717-2191 Or email FASTRACERFREDDY@AOL.COMNovember 15, 2014 at 10:08 pm #37169
Hey, Sebastian! Do you think you’re gonna make it to the Pro Race?
No pressure, I just need to get your stuff ready, I have pretty much everything, except the clutch
If the answer is no, don’t feel bad, things happen, but I just need to know for preparation That’s all.
But I will totally understand if you can’t make it.
P.S. Send me a picture of the chassis, I need to see the rear mounting bracket for the pipe. FASTFRACERFREDDY@AOL.COM
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