Forum Replies Created
December 19, 2014 at 11:42 pm #39193
Welcome back, we missed you. Lol
And yes, we need to talk to David Cole, and vote to remove the indoor karting section, and make it a FastFreddy section, not even “The Ask Freddy Section” But The “Freddy” section
Now that would be cool, in agreement to what Sebastian mentioned.
And all kidding aside
Tim Koyen said something very valuable about engine builders and their support at the track, In fact some of them even Bar-B-Q for their customers at the track.
It’s always a great idea to keep a good relationship with people for mutual support, it can only help us all build a stronger sport.
Thank you guys for sharing that.December 18, 2014 at 11:38 pm #39134
Everything Anthony mentioned is correct
We only use Horstman 2 disc dry clutch and L&T Mini 2 disc dry also For Super Sr Sportsman class.
And yes, please lubricate the bushing inside the driver/drum, and don’t forget the chain lube every session, always keep your chain tension at the proper adjustment.
But don’t worry we’ll assist you at the track, just come out buddy.
Will you be bringing a roller chassis, or you need a complete kart arrive and drive? As I notice you’re selling your chassis?
Either way we can still help you, just let us know. Fast Freddy.December 8, 2014 at 10:27 am #38585
Yup, fuel, pre mix, plug, tires, radiator type, pipe, etc. I agree.
Hey guys, thank you for all your help
Unfortunately I’m not gonna be able to make it, as I sold the kart in broken condition. Sad
A buddy of mine came over to my shop, saw the kart and fell in live with it, made me an offer and bought it.
He will be seeing you guys up north in January at Laguna Seca, and Willow Springs, Button Willow, and Infenion.
Thanks so much for all your input. God bless you all. Fast Freddy.December 7, 2014 at 7:54 pm #38546
I’m 6’2″, 42 years old, weigh 210 lbs, I am going to lose 30 lbs by Feb 2015
I can assure you that if I lose my body fat, and eat healthy, don’t care what the doctor says I WILL NOT die, I can die a lot faster and hurt myself by eating crap, pizza, dough, chips, soda, deep fry foods, fast foods, etc.
Your body will not consume itself if you continue to feed it right
Please face the reality and facts, and start eating well. I’m not saying DON”T EAT, but please eat right.
Anybody wants to hit the bike path with a road bike with me?December 5, 2014 at 2:43 pm #38421
Our race season starts February.
And we only race once a month
Come out a day early so that you can practice and get familiar with the package, before race day.
You can always unload all your gear and kart at our shop, that way you don’t have to worry about losers stealing your kart at the hotel, then in the morning we can all head out to the track and practice.
I would have to wait on the 2015 race schedule to verify the dated, as some times we race at night time, under the lights.
It would be great to have you over.December 4, 2014 at 11:02 pm #38377
Are you trying to do some early Christmas shopping for me? Please try no to stress too much, as I’m very easy to shop for, and very grateful for any graphics I can get, never picky.
I would say hold off on the Ferrari graphics, and just wait till they reveil the new F1 cars for the next season, and then I can give you my opinion and my mailing address too.December 4, 2014 at 10:46 pm #38376
Why not get into a healthier diet, get back into shape, and lose 20 to 30 lbs?
If that seems to be the issue, then deal with that particular issue.
Your body will thank you for it, after all.
Athletes do it all the time
Boxers, fighters, horse racers, swimmers, etc.
I’m getting older these days, and I’m still planning to lose some fat myself for next season, so that I may compete in a different class.
20 to 30 lbs is not impossible to lose, try not eating for about a week, hit the scale and see what happens. At least 10 lbs right? then try different food rather than ne nice large fries, big fat extra size burger, soda, etc.
Not trying to be offensive here, this is reality, and this is the sport we love
Noticed I mentioned “SPORT” That means it is a sport, and we do need to train, and discipline ourselves with better diets. ( including myself, my fat ass ).
Most race car drivers train and work out endless hours, and pay close attention to what they eat. My 2 cents.December 4, 2014 at 2:47 pm #38350
20 Lbs isn’t that far off
May be easier to lose weight, or deal with the extra weight, rather than start a new class, and get drivers to commit to it.
We have the same issue here locally, and of course I have to lose 30 lbs, or deal with it, myself.
Sorry, I wish there was something more comfortable, or an easier way. My 2 cents, and by no means trying to be disrespectful, as I am on the same boat.December 3, 2014 at 12:49 pm #38242
Well, we could talk about ways how to improve our sport, encourage people that are new or wanting to get started, support them and maintain them so that they keep learning and getting better at it.
We can also talk about jokes, I love clean killer jokes
We can talk about Christmas, Jesus, the love of Christ for us
We can talk about tire coning, etc. LolDecember 3, 2014 at 10:01 am #38228
Yes, I did, and manage to win the championship with it. Thank God!
What a pain in the butt it was, frustrating also.
We had the option of other fresh engines we’ve got on the shelf, but I really wanted to find out about this one first.December 2, 2014 at 3:18 pm #38171
Yamaha KT100December 2, 2014 at 1:00 pm #38163
Sorry I didn’t reply, I was really busy racing here
But yeah, I could be behind the top secret of those engines
Send me a check in the mail, and I’ll tell you all about it. Lol
Just remember, There is a reason why some motors are hand picked by builders, they go through a handful of cases and they find the one they fall in love with, they massage it, they talk to it ( when no one’s looking ) and they’re all by them selves at the shop, they even give them names, like “KRAZY HORSE, BLUE MOON, MY SWEET HEART, MONY MAKING MACHINE, ETC.
It is very hard to get accurate readings, exact readings from one engine to another, as mentioned above.November 30, 2014 at 6:32 pm #38038
I have a Sears/ Craftsman gas power compressor that I bought brand new back in the days. This bad boy used to tear cars apart for me, with all my impact wrenches, ratchets, sanders, grinders, no problem. I even used it at the track when I was younger at the places where no electricity was available.
May need a good carburetor cleaning/rebuilding, but the 5.5 Briggs&Stratton engine is very strong.
Let me know if interested. I’ll make you a smoken deal.November 29, 2014 at 1:29 pm #37987
Please post a picture of the nuts you don’t like
And another picture of your wheel counter sink, and I’ll tell you what’s upNovember 27, 2014 at 1:19 pm #37864
Thank you, Roger
I appreciate this very much
I have always respected a gentleman and his notes/book keeping
Thank you.November 25, 2014 at 7:28 pm #37768
The original metal bumper usually is fastened a little tighter, I’ve noticed
All of our karts with plastic rear bumpers are left lose to keep them from binding ( you don’t want them tight )
But for cadet karts I don’t know how it will affect the handling being a smaller frame.
Best you can do is drive it with it tight, and then try leaving it lose next session, and see how your little racer likes it
Technically it should change something, as the old bumper is so tight
If anything the kid will be faster, as the kart frees up on the corners. But hey, give it a try and see how you like it.
P.S. When I say lose, I really mean lose, It should rattle up and down when you tap it with your fingers. My 2 cents Fast Freddy.November 24, 2014 at 7:29 pm #37701
I have always used master links with ZERO failures in all my years of karting, and would not think about it twice
Super nice to have the ability to adjust chain leghth if needed when running different gear ratio.
Just make sure you install it properly with the opening side facing towards the back at the top part of the chain ( away from any possibilities of opening up while rubbing on any parts )November 24, 2014 at 7:07 pm #37698
Finish the old fuel first, or wait till you can top the tank off
And then start with a new batch at 60z per gallon (it is ok to mix 1/4 to 1/2 a tank) if anything it will run better. Considering the fact that you’ve already ran the engine on this fuel with no issues?
You can always mix new fuel in the tank with new fuel from your jug
But I highly recommend that you mix your 5 gallons of new fuel first
If lack of containers is an issue, then keep the old fuel in a lawn equipment container, that way your 5 gallon jug is empty and free from old fuel mixture
You could always use the rest for your weed eater or blower.
If I understood your question correctly, then this would be my answer.November 21, 2014 at 8:19 pm #37536
I have never driven an Allkart before, so I couldn’t tell you how good or bad they are
But for your 2nd question goes, I can totally help you with
A cadet kart is so short and small that if you are an adult driver, you could not fit in it, even if you tried, you would have to sit on top of the seat to drive it.November 21, 2014 at 8:05 pm #37535
I agree with TJ
Our home track is extremely hard on tires, and you can see that type of tire wear a lot, unfortunately most guys like to go with the softer axle, so yeah it will develop inside shoulder tire wear.
You can avoid tire wear on the front by creating more positive camber, but it will sacrifice some of the handling.
And as for the rear goes, there is really no way around it, unless you install a harder axle, it will in fact reduce the inside tire wear, but will of course create a change in your tuning.
Some times is more important to win a race if it costs you a set of tires, rather than conserving the tires and finishing towards the back.
We can only do a 3 heat race per set of new tires, and after that they’re pretty much good for a CAN race, or hot laps, or practice (once we flip them over, they’re good to go) My 2 cents.
And yes, I know! You’re right Jim, I should start paying a royalty fee for over posting here
But my name looks so pretty on every topic, and every section of this forum
Looks like a Christmas tree. So pretty!November 21, 2014 at 7:38 pm #37532
Cut the hose behind the seat, and install it there, closer towards the engine (right side of the seat)
Should give you enough clearance to reach the cable to the engine.
DON’T CUT THE HOSE TILL YOU’RE ABSOLUTELY SURE IT’S GONNA WORK.November 20, 2014 at 6:21 pm #37442
Man! you guys are lucky!
I have a local race the same weekend
Do you guys hit Laguna Seca also? I’m planning to go there in January.November 20, 2014 at 6:08 pm #37441
When you see a F1 car, or an Indy car the front wing being adjusted for more down force at the front, it normally helps you to corner a lot better by creating more weigh to the front wheels for road courses, and some rather smaller tracks, but this is a different kind of weight.
This weight is applied directly to the front wheels, body and suspension created by aerodynamic down force, that will eventually affect the steering axis tilt.
In karting it is a totally different animal, as you can’t ad weights to each wheel or each corner of each axle, you can only place weights to certain spots of your seat, floor pan and chassis, Plus the behavior of a kart chassis and its flexibility is by far unlike a race car, as there is no suspension, yes the chassis flexes in a way as if they did have suspension, but they don’t.
So that being said, they do not rely on upper and lower control arms (wish bone suspension), both front and rear, with ball joints that helps keep the steering hubs/knucles and tires in place, as the vehicle travels up and down. Go karts flex up and down in a way, but do not travel freely since there’s drag at the bottom of the tires, so we’re constantly pushing on the rubber, then eventually the kart slides, glides and rotates.
I would love to ask you what it is that you’re trying to achieve? So that we may understand a little better, and decide where to go with your question.
Unfortunately I am not a scientific, but we can give it our best shot in trying to help you. But I am really curious to know what your plans are, that way we can share the geometry and the physics of race cars and race karts.November 20, 2014 at 1:12 pm #37415
That’s what I’m talking about, as I’m planning to run a few events at the big tracks.
What club do you guys race with? I may be seeing you soon?
I still race here locally with the KT100’s, but I miss my shifter karts, and I really wanna do the Road Race Tracks.
Thanks for all your input. Fast Freddy.November 20, 2014 at 11:09 am #37402
Thank you, Michael!
Very good info, I really appreciate it. Very helpful
I run 5 inch tires for the typical sprint shifter karts
Either Bridgestone YLC’s or MG Yellow’s
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