Forum Replies Created
February 27, 2015 at 8:58 pm #43179
Is it Corsa? Or Corsair? If it’s Corsa then that’s not the make, that should be the model. Not sure if made by Sodi Kart, or Hasse?
Please post some pictures, we can tell you what kind it is. FastFreddy.February 24, 2015 at 11:54 pm #42988
Generally speaking most Euro karts are a bit lighter, depending on the tubing size and diameter, components can actually ad up a bit too.
I almost wanna say that OTK ( Tony Karts are very light )
Your hight and weight is not that far off from many guys I race with, honestly most guys are at 215, 225, and 230. Many, including myself try to shed 20 to 30 lbs from time to time, with some noticeable success.
Also at 6’2″ tall is not impossible to fit in most karts, I’ve seen bigger guys fitting in no problem, but Margay Brava Limo makes a very suitable kart for taller drivers, and CRG “Big Al ” Is also a very good option, some of the newer Tony Kart EVK are also pretty tall driver friendly.
As for your budget goes, you would have to determine What class and club you wanna race at, and what the spec engine is to be able to race legally.
But if all you want is the good old weekend warrior, then any decent well maintained used kart/engine package will do.
Let us know what your budget is, and engine type to better help you, and steer you in the right direction. Hope this helps. FastFreddy.February 24, 2015 at 7:13 pm #42986
I do have a couple of good ones
Do you need a complete package with clutch, mount, pipe and all?
Or just the motor and carb alone?February 23, 2015 at 11:09 pm #42937February 23, 2015 at 9:35 pm #42934
Is this a good option?
I know the guy real well, and can be shipped for less than $150 to your townFebruary 21, 2015 at 2:22 pm #42789
Check this one out, and another thing to consider is, if you don’t see it listed on the site just pick up the phone and call them. Most of the time they may have it, or could order it for you.
Please post a picture of your old calipers, seals, and master cylinder seals and pistons.
I really wanna see some pictures to see the condition
Some times you can get away by just honing the cylinders and calipers, and just a good cleaning of the seals will do, but I would like to see the condition first.
Note: If you cant post any pictures here, please send them to my email at FASTRACERFREDDY@AOL.COMFebruary 20, 2015 at 3:32 pm #42747
Please post a picture here, so that I can see what you need
Most likely I’ll find it. FastFreddy.February 19, 2015 at 11:38 pm #42662
First check what indoor tracks are available in your area, do a couple of races and see if you like it, and how well you do, then go back again some other day and see if your driving improved.
If you feel like the indoor karts are too slow for you, then it’s time to move on to the next level. Find a local track near you and ask if there is an arrive and drive/rental program, and start driving 4 cycle low hp karts just to get you started. This should take place at a real race track ( bigger than indoor)
Once you become better, and more addicted to the sport, and you can’t take it anymore, other than wanting to buy your own equipment, then it will be time to look around for a good used turn key and ready to go kart.
I wouldn’t be too concerned about adult classes, all full size karts are adult drivers, in most clubs you have to be at least 16 or 17 and up to 65 years old to race.
A great place to look for used karts, and parts is right here, there is always something available at a good price, and there are many racers willing to give you a hand and good advise. Good luck to you, and welcome to the sport. FastFreddy.February 19, 2015 at 11:14 pm #42661
Side bite……….. When you turn into a fast corner and the kart has too much grip, and gets too aggressive, that it starts to slide and then grip super hard.
hopping…………When the inside front or rear wheel bounces too much on the corners, instead of smooth gliding throughout the corner ( usually related to hopping), and no, hopping is not good at all, it will slow you down a lot.
understeer………………. When you turn the wheel to take a corner, and the kart keeps going straight, even with the wheels fully turned ( usually called a push also)
oversteer…………………. When you turn the wheel to take a corner, and the rear end gets easily lose and slights too much, even if you’re not trying to turn the wheel that much, and the rear end is too responsive, or sensitive.
Push………….. I think it’s been explained at understeer
And for “kick” you’re on you’re own, because I have no idea, unless otherwise explained differently.
Hope that helps, buddy. FastFreddy,February 18, 2015 at 9:40 pm #42575
When is the first race of the season?
We have the KT100’s Super Senior engines begging for a race day.
Please give me more details, and what dates we’re looking at, as long as it doesn’t interfere with our Bakersfield Kart Raceway.
Thanks, buddy.February 16, 2015 at 10:16 pm #42447
put a spring inside the adjusting bias screw, or replace the adjusting screw/knob combo, along with the center nut.
Or if you’re trying to keep it on the cheap side, then remove the bias screw and make the threads more rough and harder to turn, but still easy to adjust by hand, basically either make the nut tighter or the screw rougher.
Hope that helps. Fast Freddy.February 12, 2015 at 11:22 pm #42185
Give these people a call
And if it’s not available contact your local auto parts store, you’d be surprised what a wheel cylinder cup rebuild kit can do.
What kind of kart is this anyway? Brand, year and model?February 12, 2015 at 10:49 pm #42184
The bolts on the shifter lever and weldments attached to the steering column from time to time do develop play, as the holes get bigger and the bolts get smaller, I have seen it many times.
Buy specialized bolts with bigger diameter body, at a bolt store, or go from metric to standard and see if it fits tighter.
There are machined bolts that have a nice thick body available.
But if the steering column (uprights) shifter weldments are too worn out and oval shaped, then you may have to cut them off and re weld new eyelets, also check the condition on the shifter lever weldments, by completely removing the shift lever, check them both, you’d be surprised.February 12, 2015 at 10:16 pm #42183
In reality all of those rib protector manufactures you mentioned are all good.
As for comfort goes, it is hard to tell, as what is comfortable to you may be uncomfortable to others, the main thing is to stay safe, and being able to move somewhat freely, and staying wedged and packed pretty good inside your seat.
Those bulky vests are very helpful once you get used to them, another thing to consider is that rib cage bruising and small hairline fractures caused by G force and being tossed around and bounced in the corners are a lot more painful and uncomfortable.
The answer to your other question is: Ask your club what the proper age it is for your kid to stop wearing a chest protector, some clubs are different than others, but honestly I would say wear it no matter what, for his own safety, you just never know when it’s gonna happen, but when it does you want him to be ready to absorb and insulate the impact of a steering wheel or someone else’s tire or chassis.
Now let’s move on to padding on the seat. If he likes it the way it is, then leave it alone, but if he complains of pain on the sides where the seat strut bolts and washers are, then either get a 1/4 padded seat or fill it up with patio floor mat or boat carpet and padding.
Those are my 2 cents. Hope that helps. Fast Freddy.February 12, 2015 at 1:25 pm #42162
It would be very helpful to let us know what year, make and model kart you have, but I would like to think these would work.
Hope that helps, buddy. Fast Freddy.February 10, 2015 at 11:37 pm #42048
Contact Phill Giebler in Anaheim Ca. They specialize on Formula Alonso, Fernando Alonso Karts, and all OTK.
Here’s a link, good luck, FastFreddy.January 27, 2015 at 10:55 pm #41204
My Son (Indy Sandoval Kart #88 KPV4 )and I made it to that race, along with Orville Wright, Chris Weson, Dale Cheeseman , Tyler Coffman, Steve Coffman, Tate sansers and Rusty Sanders
All of us guys from Bakersfield ca.
And yes, you’re right what an awesome and fun event! Nice and clean starts, and lots of talented drivers. They all drove a hard earned race! Good event CANT’T WAIT TO DOI T AGAIN!!!! Thanks for posting, buddy.
You guys should come out in February for our 1st race of the season.January 27, 2015 at 10:25 pm #41202
What are you trying to buy, or sell?January 26, 2015 at 1:05 am #41074
I’ll check my schedule and work load, but I think next Saturday is very doable.
Clutches I just have my engine builder re do the whole thing for me, by the time you’re done ordering parts, or sending them out you’re better off almost buying a new one.
My guy gives me a great deal, replaces all worn pieces, checks the trueness at all discs and pressure plates, etc. Besides he has all the parts available, and I love providing local business cash flow.
Check your PM.January 25, 2015 at 11:11 pm #41071
I have 3 L&T clutches to choose from, I also have an extra pipe
Let me know when your coming down.
I can’t wait to go back to the track. LOL.January 20, 2015 at 5:51 pm #40793
Usually when your master cylinder starts to bypass internally, so does the caliper seals.
I always rebuild the whole system
And yes, it is very possible to have a small leak or hairline crack at the line fittings, check those too.
We always check the braking system, before we check our power plant, brakes should be the first thing to check before a track day, as a safety rule.
Always flush and bleed hydraulic brakes.January 12, 2015 at 9:32 am #40331
I agree with Walt, If it’s got that much carbon built up it’s probably due for a top end
I also think it’s really funny that he places a dollar sign instead of an “X” after “Rota” Lol.
If you don’t wanna break the seal by removing the head, you could just remove the spark plug and install the sea foam through the spark plug hole, But it is still very scary to think that some of the sea foam fluid/solvent will go down the crank case and become fatal.
I honestly wouldn’t do it.January 11, 2015 at 10:07 pm #40308
I wouldn’t use it at all on 2 stroke engines, you’ll probably seize the top end before you finish cleaning the carbon deposits.
If you really wanna clean it, just remove the head and soak it up with sea foam, use it as a solvent only with a brush, make sure nothing goes inside the crank case.January 9, 2015 at 8:41 am #40136
Kevin, check your PM. I sent you some info.January 9, 2015 at 1:03 am #40126
Why not just buy this one, and save all the time. frustration and money?
Redding Ca is not that far, shipping through Fastenal is very affordable right now. Or meet the guy 1/2 way.
You may end up spending a lot more money than you care before the project is even done ( just a thought )
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