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  • #52159

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    I have a friend with a complete, almost new set up off a Top Kart (they should fit, as they look SKM also.)

    Hubs, spindles, rotors, etc. I think they were only used once if any

    I can contact him, if interested?

    #51351

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Mike, you’re kid is doing a lot better

    Kids are very funny and if you share too much info with them it gets even funnier.

    Make a few adjustments, just to test, but don’t tell him anything, just let him drive it, and see how he does. I was checking out the videos from this Saturday night race, and he looked really good, nice and smooth, and very consistent.

    If you really wanna try 52″ at the rear, he may lose lift at the inside rear tire, at the pit turn, but considering how light he is it may work to his advantage. Try it first, and if you don’t like it you can always go back all the way or closer to 49″

    Is he complaining of a handling  issue right now?

    T

    #51248

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Oh, Hay Mike!

    I love to see some of my club guys in here

    I’m really looking forward to this race, the weather should be nice and cooler, we’re gonna have some dogs and burgers, I’ll bring the drinks and potato salad. Bryan and Dave are gonna create some traffic while I go around and pass Todd for the lead. Lol

    We’ll see you soon, buddy. FastFreddy.   😉

    #51241

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    These……..http://www.fastech-racing.com/axle-bearing-40x80mm-kyk-made-in-japan.html

    And These…….http://www.accelerationkarting.com/bulkaxlebearings.aspx

    And These……….http://www.tsracing.com/store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&CATID=28&ObjectGroup_ID=113&OBS=11&Move=Prev&count=8&Pcount=35

    And These………http://www.ebay.com/itm/GO-KART-AXLE-BEARING-RIGHETTI-RIDOLFI-K244-40MM-/161204287853?hash=item258886396d&vxp=mtr

    There are many other options for higher quality and more expensive stuff, it all depends how far you wanna go with it, but those bearings are pretty decent and will do just well for a season or 2.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    #51202

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant
    #51192

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Yup, That’s how I set mine up too, even when you install a new set of chassis protectors, the hardware is designed for heads at bottom, washers and nuts on top.

    Meat hooks, Lol. I like that. You’re funny Walt.

    #51068

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    No need for pictures. These are usually very sad stories, and too graphic

    Just take our word for it, and believe us, even if it’s 6 inches long just be smart and protect it. It is not worth the risk, Just like Debbie said (never take chances on that)

    #51047

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Walt

    There have been horrible long hair accidents in the past, where women have lost all the flesh off their faces ( face off ) Tragically there have been a few cases about this issue, and sadly it was always a joy ride, a girl that was invited to try karting, and was never advised or encouraged about the danger of long hair.

    David Cole is right, this should be posted in every track, every club, and every rule book, it’s only commune cense. I personally would encourage everyone with long hair, no matter how long it is, to put it on a pony tail, tuck it inside the suit and put on a head sock.

    #50872

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Brian

    Any karting shop in your area should be able to mount a seat, at the right angle and the ride height.

    Not difficult to do at all, gotta find the seat he feels comfortable with, fits perfectly snugged ( not lose, not choking him to death ) Put all your weights towards the bottom, etc.

    But if what you’re looking for is a service, then look them up around your town, there should be a few shops in New Jersey. Otherwise just ask how to do it with us guys here, just give us enough info on the kart size, kid size, height and weight, engine package you’re running, etc.

    #50773

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    David

    Your issue may just be bad tires, swap the 2 front tires 1st, if no changes, then swap the back ones if it changes then that’s your problem. If not, then swap your 2 front hubs and bearings ( if it has front hubs )

    Those old tires are really dry and probably shrunk one more than the other, just like Jim mention, if it was flat for a long time.

    I personally never use a set of tires that are older than 1 or 2 months, if yours are older than a year, or 2, then toss them and install new ones, you’ll love your kart and now you’ll have a fresh starting point for set ups.

     

    And yes, most chassis are repairable, unless the impact when wrecked was really hard. But I would try the things I suggested 1st, and then we’ll know what to do next. Please keep us posted and share with us what happened after your process of elimination. Good luck. Fast Freddy.   😉

     

     

    #50729

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    I agree with TJ, but another important thing to consider is: Is it a tire pull, or a geometry issue?

    Best way to find out swap the 2  front tires around and drive it again, make sure your tire pressure is equal, if it pulls to the opposite side then it’s a tire, but if it continues to pull, then it’s mechanical.

    Check your king pins, check your caster, I bet that kart was wrecked and the wheel is bent, the kart may pull if it has negative caster, or set back, and will vibrate if the wheel is slightly bent or the tire is out of balance.

    Try swapping the front tires first and see what happens, if it still pulls, then give it more positive caster on the right side (if it’s adjustable) if not take it to someone who has knowledge of  alignments, installing pills, straightening chassis on a table, etc.

    #50578

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    There are a few things you can do, to set up a kart for him, but the big question is: How fast are his reflexes, reaction time, Is he pretty sharp and aware, quick to react? I know that his legs are not functional as you stated above, but it is extremely important to know his sharpness to be able to judge if he can drive or not.

    It is a big deal and a safety issue, you really don’t want him getting hurt or others.

     

    Now moving on to the options hoping that he is capable and able to control the kart and speeds.

    There was a video posted here sometime last year, and I’m pretty sure it’s on youtube.com, in fact he posted a few videos, step by step, showing how to build all the linkages for hand controls, he also built a crane to help him pick himself up and drop back inside his kart. He had no use of his legs at all.

    Please understand that I don’t have a lot of info about this kid, and I can only give you a few pointers, based on the info you gave us, but if everything looks good, and he can do it, then there are a few options and yes, it is very possible to get him to drive and have fun like a normal kid would.

    Please give us more info. Here’s a video

    Hope this helps.

     

    #49794

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant
    #49784

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Todd

    I have a complete KT100

    Do you wanna trade? Or I can just buy the kart out right?

    Please let me know, I’ll pay the shipping.

    #49777

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    John

    Now that you posted pics of the caliper bore, I can see that those calipers are pretty much done.

    Righetti Ridolfi makes some real nice ones, and are not too expensive

    Try acceleration.com or Fastech-racing.com

    Or ebay.

    #49726

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Measure the seal’s outside diameter, and decide which one is closest to you, then order from Fastech-racing.com

    Most likely it will be either 19MM or 21MM, and those calipers were made by SKM for Hasse, if I’m not mistaken. Here’s a link. Good luck. Fast Freddy.  😉

    http://www.fastech-racing.com/brake-seals/

     

    #49548

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    The best one man kart stand I’ve owned was made by KartLift, and it was the none electric one, just leverage and shocks operated ( I loved it!!!! )

    I bought it back in the day when my 18 year old was a baby, and it lasted me forever. The only issue is that back in those days rear plastic bumpers had not been invented yet, so the hooks were designed for a tube bumper.

    But that’s not a problem, they do come with the new bumper style hooks now.

    Look into it, you won’t regret it. Easy to operate, and very light, plus it folds into a little flat frame box.

    In my opinion the big electric stands were a good idea, but being so big, bulky and heavy, not to mention slowwwwww, and it throws your back trying to lift it or moving it around, makes the initial thought of saving your back useless. Most guys at my track that have those things are always in the way, we all have to wait for them to finish unloading their karts before we can set our karts down, and trying to move them out of the way is a pain in the butt. Sorry if I offended any electric kart stand owners, that’s my opinion on those things, but what doesn’t work for me may work for somebody else.  Fast Freddy.  :)

    #49293

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Just buy carpet padding, and patio carpet (grey or black boat carpet) from lowes or home depot, buy a tube of yellow  weather strip glue, buy a razor blade.

    Cut to fit pieces to make your seat a 1/4 padded seat, glue foam padding to seat so that it will stay on the seat first while you work on wrapping the carpet around the padding and roll it over the inside lip of the seat edges, your carpet should be about 1 inch to 1 1/2 longger than the foam. Drill the holes through the carpet, the same place they were. Re install the seat after drying off glue, tighten all bolts. That puppy will look factory quality when done.

    And live happily ever after.  FastFreddy.  😉

     

    #49155

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Bryan! just use bulldozer yellow tape, or caution tape, that way people will know when you’re coming to plow all the karts out off the track. Lol

    #49113

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Lol. No worries, Mr Giff

    I can forward the emails, and tell her to send you her pics instead, it’s never too late.

    Dave, thank you for taking care of it.

    #48737

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    I use maxima chain wax, and it works ok, but it’s a pain in the but to clean up afterwards.

    Motul and triflo make an awesome product that works very well

    http://www.accelerationkarting.com/search.aspx?find=chain+lube

    This little guy works wonders, and it’s guey http://www.tsracing.com/store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=487&CATID=7

    #48670

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    I have at least 2 if not 3 of those Tony Kart Mgnesium mounts Cliff is talking about, that were specifically made for that chassis. You can probably drill some holes to make it a 4 cycle bolt pattern.

    You can have them for $65 bucks, plus shipping, if you’d like.

    #48501

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Brian, this is very simple, and Rob hit it right in the nail

    Another thing to consider is that new sprockets aren’t very accurate, even the one piece types, what I found out most of the time is that they won’t even fit perfectly on the hub, so I always make an effort to shave off any imperfections from the machining on the inside with a rat file or an oval shape file, just go around the whole circle (inside of bothe halves) gentilly and evenly and will fit like a glove.

    #48499

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    John

    This is extremely easy to do

    Order a 15 degree engine mount from BMI karts, these are extremely adjustable, and will fit any European and American karts (universal)

    You can adjust 2 to 3 notches on any direction, front back or side.

    You may wanna give them a call 1st, as I don’t see any 15 degree mounts available, but they used to have them by the ton.

    And yes, that chassis will do just fine with a 4 cycle engine, you may have to cut the rear crossmember or bend it a little, to clear the inboard rear sprocket.http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Degree-Angled-Motor-Mount-for-Honda-Briggs-Clone-Predator-Engines-Go-Kart-/221292508160

    Here’s a link to that mount, hope this helps. Fast Freddy   :)

    #47802

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Tory, welcome to the sport. There will be days when you show up to the track to play, and some others when you just have a hard time and just wrench

    Don’t get discouraged, this happens to all of us, soon or later.

    Please tell me how exactly you bleed the front brakes. Did you use the tool for gravity feed? If not then that could be a problem, you can’t really pump that system like a car.

    Usually master cylinders should be rebuilt right about the same time.

     

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 288 total)