Forum Replies Created
May 22, 2015 at 2:47 pm #48737
I use maxima chain wax, and it works ok, but it’s a pain in the but to clean up afterwards.
Motul and triflo make an awesome product that works very well
This little guy works wonders, and it’s guey http://www.tsracing.com/store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=487&CATID=7May 21, 2015 at 7:10 pm #48670
I have at least 2 if not 3 of those Tony Kart Mgnesium mounts Cliff is talking about, that were specifically made for that chassis. You can probably drill some holes to make it a 4 cycle bolt pattern.
You can have them for $65 bucks, plus shipping, if you’d like.May 19, 2015 at 2:34 pm #48501
Brian, this is very simple, and Rob hit it right in the nail
Another thing to consider is that new sprockets aren’t very accurate, even the one piece types, what I found out most of the time is that they won’t even fit perfectly on the hub, so I always make an effort to shave off any imperfections from the machining on the inside with a rat file or an oval shape file, just go around the whole circle (inside of bothe halves) gentilly and evenly and will fit like a glove.May 19, 2015 at 2:07 pm #48499
This is extremely easy to do
Order a 15 degree engine mount from BMI karts, these are extremely adjustable, and will fit any European and American karts (universal)
You can adjust 2 to 3 notches on any direction, front back or side.
You may wanna give them a call 1st, as I don’t see any 15 degree mounts available, but they used to have them by the ton.
And yes, that chassis will do just fine with a 4 cycle engine, you may have to cut the rear crossmember or bend it a little, to clear the inboard rear sprocket.http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Degree-Angled-Motor-Mount-for-Honda-Briggs-Clone-Predator-Engines-Go-Kart-/221292508160
Here’s a link to that mount, hope this helps. Fast FreddyMay 7, 2015 at 12:40 pm #47802
Tory, welcome to the sport. There will be days when you show up to the track to play, and some others when you just have a hard time and just wrench
Don’t get discouraged, this happens to all of us, soon or later.
Please tell me how exactly you bleed the front brakes. Did you use the tool for gravity feed? If not then that could be a problem, you can’t really pump that system like a car.
Usually master cylinders should be rebuilt right about the same time.May 4, 2015 at 7:38 pm #47580
Listen to people’s advice here. It will be very beneficial to you
I honestly agree with buying a brand new starter, or a good used one. You will be very thankful in the long run
Not to mention Trying to set up your kart to direct drive will take you to a whole new level of steep learning experience, and may be too difficult for you to adjust, especially if you’re new.
$200.00 bucks is not too bad at all. You may be able to find an old one on ebay, and just install a new battery from the lawn and garden at walmart for less than that.May 4, 2015 at 5:57 pm #47575
My buddy has a complete set, except hoses or MC
I really do not know if they are for a Top Kart or OTK
You should call him (661) 805-7004 OrvilleApril 29, 2015 at 2:43 pm #47218
All you’ve gotta do is not get too closed to me, give me more room at the pit turn, horse shoe turn, and stay behind me the whole time
That way you wont have to worry about those cute graphics. Lol Fast Frreddy.
No, with all kidding aside, yeah I would use brake cleaner, carb cleaner or a rag with gasoline and rub on it a little bit, try not to over do it, just like TJ said, or else it will remove the clear coat and part of the color.
There is also a product out there designed to protect graphics, I think it’s called helicopter tape (clear tape ) Last time I checked on ebay, from a guy down in Orange county Cali. Hope that helps, buddy
P.S. The only graphics you’ll have to worry about with me is your front bumper ones, that’s of course if you get closed enough. Lol Sorry. FastFreddyApril 20, 2015 at 2:03 pm #46436
I used to have a really nice and clean CRG cadet shifter kart, a few years ago
I think I found it again, I really think this is the one, as it still has all my stickers. ( That’s too funny!!! )
Anyhow, please give this guy a call, just trying to help. Good luck, FastFreddy. 😉March 30, 2015 at 2:49 pm #45080
I think I may know what you’re talking about, but Could you please upload some pictures, so that we can see what’s actually happening?
Thank you, Fast Freddy. 😉March 28, 2015 at 9:11 am #44987
Hope this helps, you can always install a new graphic set over the unwanted color. Fast Freddy. 😉March 27, 2015 at 12:01 pm #44961
It all depends on what your budget is, where you’re gonna race at, club level, regional, or National?
Another thing to consider is. How is the track you’re gonna be racing at?
Short, sprint and tight? Long straight aways, or short straight aways? Bumpy or smooth, slick or gripy?
You stated on your ad as What the best chassis would be?
That can open a can of worms, as people will actually recommend the highest level of competition chassis available, with out thinking about the price tag.
Anyhow, let us know, and welcome back to the sport. Fast Freddy. 😉March 25, 2015 at 2:04 pm #44816
Here’s the rest of the race schedule, for Bakersfield Kart Raceway. Please come and join us, and let us know when we can come down to Willow Springs, as a few guys wanna race out of town.March 17, 2015 at 10:34 pm #44318
Your pictures are not uploading successfully here, you have to use a server like facebook, or photo bucket.
Just send me some pics to my email address, I’ll steer you in the right direction, buddy.March 16, 2015 at 10:13 pm #44235
Install spacers between the caliper halves, you should have more clearance than that, check all the hardware on the rotor and hub.
Go drive it, or try it on the stand. if it still drags, and the pads are not returning, then you have a hydraulic problem.
Either the calipers are sticking, or your master is.
Try that procedure, to narrow it down first. Please post pictures of what you’ve got, so we can help you better. FastFreddy. 😉March 14, 2015 at 11:08 pm #44058
I just sold it today
Let me check on Monday, and see if I may have another one.February 27, 2015 at 8:58 pm #43179
Is it Corsa? Or Corsair? If it’s Corsa then that’s not the make, that should be the model. Not sure if made by Sodi Kart, or Hasse?
Please post some pictures, we can tell you what kind it is. FastFreddy. 😉February 24, 2015 at 11:54 pm #42988
Generally speaking most Euro karts are a bit lighter, depending on the tubing size and diameter, components can actually ad up a bit too.
I almost wanna say that OTK ( Tony Karts are very light )
Your hight and weight is not that far off from many guys I race with, honestly most guys are at 215, 225, and 230. Many, including myself try to shed 20 to 30 lbs from time to time, with some noticeable success.
Also at 6’2″ tall is not impossible to fit in most karts, I’ve seen bigger guys fitting in no problem, but Margay Brava Limo makes a very suitable kart for taller drivers, and CRG “Big Al ” Is also a very good option, some of the newer Tony Kart EVK are also pretty tall driver friendly.
As for your budget goes, you would have to determine What class and club you wanna race at, and what the spec engine is to be able to race legally.
But if all you want is the good old weekend warrior, then any decent well maintained used kart/engine package will do.
Let us know what your budget is, and engine type to better help you, and steer you in the right direction. Hope this helps. FastFreddy. 😉February 24, 2015 at 7:13 pm #42986
I do have a couple of good ones
Do you need a complete package with clutch, mount, pipe and all?
Or just the motor and carb alone?February 23, 2015 at 11:09 pm #42937February 23, 2015 at 9:35 pm #42934
Is this a good option?
I know the guy real well, and can be shipped for less than $150 to your townFebruary 21, 2015 at 2:22 pm #42789
Check this one out, and another thing to consider is, if you don’t see it listed on the site just pick up the phone and call them. Most of the time they may have it, or could order it for you.
Please post a picture of your old calipers, seals, and master cylinder seals and pistons.
I really wanna see some pictures to see the condition
Some times you can get away by just honing the cylinders and calipers, and just a good cleaning of the seals will do, but I would like to see the condition first.
Note: If you cant post any pictures here, please send them to my email at FASTRACERFREDDY@AOL.COMFebruary 20, 2015 at 3:32 pm #42747
Please post a picture here, so that I can see what you need
Most likely I’ll find it. 😉 FastFreddy.February 19, 2015 at 11:38 pm #42662
First check what indoor tracks are available in your area, do a couple of races and see if you like it, and how well you do, then go back again some other day and see if your driving improved.
If you feel like the indoor karts are too slow for you, then it’s time to move on to the next level. Find a local track near you and ask if there is an arrive and drive/rental program, and start driving 4 cycle low hp karts just to get you started. This should take place at a real race track ( bigger than indoor)
Once you become better, and more addicted to the sport, and you can’t take it anymore, other than wanting to buy your own equipment, then it will be time to look around for a good used turn key and ready to go kart.
I wouldn’t be too concerned about adult classes, all full size karts are adult drivers, in most clubs you have to be at least 16 or 17 and up to 65 years old to race.
A great place to look for used karts, and parts is right here, there is always something available at a good price, and there are many racers willing to give you a hand and good advise. Good luck to you, and welcome to the sport. FastFreddy. 😉February 19, 2015 at 11:14 pm #42661
Side bite……….. When you turn into a fast corner and the kart has too much grip, and gets too aggressive, that it starts to slide and then grip super hard.
hopping…………When the inside front or rear wheel bounces too much on the corners, instead of smooth gliding throughout the corner ( usually related to hopping), and no, hopping is not good at all, it will slow you down a lot.
understeer………………. When you turn the wheel to take a corner, and the kart keeps going straight, even with the wheels fully turned ( usually called a push also)
oversteer…………………. When you turn the wheel to take a corner, and the rear end gets easily lose and slights too much, even if you’re not trying to turn the wheel that much, and the rear end is too responsive, or sensitive.
Push………….. I think it’s been explained at understeer
And for “kick” you’re on you’re own, because I have no idea, unless otherwise explained differently.
Hope that helps, buddy. FastFreddy, 😉
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