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    Mike! So happy you’re back in here. We missed you

    Say something funny! Lol

    Where about do you live? I could use another shifter kart

    Are you close to Santa Clarita/ Magic Mountain? If So, I live in Bakersfield. Could you please send me some pics? and is this moto package legal and ready to go?





    I only brought that up, since it was mentioned by Greg, so that’s why I wondered if I really needed one or not, I thought pressure is pressure too, I just had to go in with an open mind, as I’m learning 2 cycles too.


    Not trying to re invent the wheel, I just thought that there may be something different here.

    But in all honestly, if you don’t think I need one, then I gess i’m fine.

    Please check the previous comments, I’m just trying to get advice here, not trying to prove a point.



    We own an automotive repair facility, and I am a certified technician

    We do have a fairly new compression gauge kit from Mac tools, and another one from Snap-on tools.

    I just thought I needed a small engine compression gauge for these KT100 motors.


    But yeah, I think from now on if I want something done right, I’ll do it myself, I just thought there was more science to keep those engines freshened up and legal.

    What should be my ring gap, with a feeler gauge at the ends?

    Thank you for all your advice



    I agree

    This reminds me of a family fun center, chucky cheese, boomers

    The real deal is at the real race tracks, with real race karts

    Don’t give me wrong, it is an excellent way to get people started in the sport, but unfortunately there isn’t any seriousness or follow ups with that kind of racing.



    You may have an intake leak, could be carb intake booty, crankcase seal, etc.

    Check your boot first, check your pick up fuel line inside the tank, sometimes they could be partially cracked.

    Sounds like you may have a vacuum leak, and when it leans out engine revs.



    Ok, I won’t mess around, no more. I am taking in consideration what you’re saying, Jim. I do have my back up engine package to rely on, before I do my own inspection on this engine, and before I send the cylinder out.

    Where can I order a good, accurate 2 cycle/small engine compression gauge kit?

    Any suggestions or part numbers of the one I should get, and where to order it from?



    Walt and Jim

    I think both of you guys are right, I was just wondering about that, and now it all makes cense. There is absolutely no way that this engine miraculous gained 20 more PSI, unless like Walt said “may be a new ring”? Slap it on and thank you very much?

    Jim, I think you may be right also with the trueness of the cylinder walls as well, and the light test. It’s just like when you do a straight edge on a cylinder head on a car, shine a flash light and you can crawl underneath.

    We do run a spec class that switches from pipe to 4 can every other race for the old farts, like me. With 390 lbs. Pipe. 410 lbs 4 hole can, and a 3 disk L&T Wet clutch

    And a spec class for the young guns Sr Super Sportsman at 360 lbs pipe and a 3 hole can 2 disk dry clutch.

    That being said, for a spec class (club level) KT100. What PSI is most common?


    Thank you all. Fast Freddy.





    This is gonna sound silly, but I must ask

    Do you wear a racing suit, or regular jeans?

    I you do wear jeans, or your suit is too loose, or too wide at the bottom of your legs. It will push the throttle cable where exposed by the pedal and bracket area.


    Tuck your jeans under your socks, so that there’s no left over hanging out jeans, or if the suit is to wide, put some zip ties around your leg sleve.


    Try that and let us know what happen.



    Zach, Thank you!

    That’s what I’m talking about!

    Read this, Noah




    Thanks, Walt

    Well, I finally got engine back, and was said that there was nothing wrong with it, no leaks at all, and it all looked good.

    I followed your advice to test it out of curiosity at wide open throttle, and with the pulse fitting plugged.

    I got 12o PSI, I also tested again with the carburetor closed, and same readings

    I don’t get it

    I dropped off an engine with confirmed and double checked compression reading at 93 to 95 psi

    And I get it back with 120 psi?


    Anyhow, Walt. There is your answer to your wandering for the new updated readings at WOT

    What do you thing? Any thoughts and pointers are always appreciated. Thank you.




    That seat is not for you, I can see that you float in it, and the top is too tall for your thorso. You need the next size down.

    Not to mention the top side wings are designed to hug you

    And usually to get in and out of those seats you kind of have to go in sideways, and wedge your way inside.

    I noticed your arms are up, lifted up.

    What happens when arms are down and you get busy, negotiating corners? Yes you’re probably resting on top of the seat edges, while brutally bouncing around.

    Get a new seat, it will be the next size down, it will be more fit, and will be a little shorter too.

    That one is for taller drivers, like close to 6′ and a little over 6′

    Get a new rib vest, or rib band/wrap at least, install some padding, and enjoy. Fast Freddy



    You’re right, This kart package is set at a very good price, the price is right.
    Honestly I can get an OTK full roller chassis with no motor at all
    for about $2,200 to $2,800, from 2013 to 2014

    So yeah, you’re right, looks like he would be getting the motor for almost free
    The first statement I made was that the kart package was a good deal, but then I shared that the engine package is not my choice (personal opinion) No offense

    And since Sebastian is new to the world of karting and unfamiliar with all the classes out there, I encouraged him to do some homework, to see if that engine is even currently running at his club, so that he won’t regret buying it.




    The kart package seems to be at a decent price

    The flat spots on the bottom frame rails are pretty deep for an OTK kart ( soft chassis ) but may be ok as a club level for a season or 2

    I’m honestly not a fan of Motori 7 ( my own personal opinion ) I would never buy one

    I would buy a Rotax instead.

    Find out if they even use those at the club you wanna race with, if not don’t even buy it.

    But if all you want it for track time, practice days and the weekend warrior, they I gess it would be ok, hoping the engine will last and parts availability is in check.




    Hey, Wayne
    I meant to ask you.
    Did you end up selling that little cadet kart?
    I need a roller for a project I’m working on, and the funny thing is: It is to introduce people to the sport at the local track.

    But I need something economy, just like that little MS kart you have.
    Please ignore this, if you’ve already sold it, but please keep your eyes open for an older cadet kart. Thanks

    P.S. When are you guys going out to Willow Springs next? May be we’ll head over that way for a test.



    I agree with Ted
    That’s a good one too, not to mention it does cost a lot less
    That would be a great choice.



    Fuel line off, pulse line off and blocked off/sealed
    I don’t know about wide open throttle, but I gess I could try that for learning
    We’ve tried several motors from our other karts, that are set up the same way, with fairly fresh motors, and surely there is a difference, no matter how we put it.

    The point is that I don’t think you can race 2 stroke motors with low compression, especially when they only read 95 psi. That’s why I asked how many psi you guys are running on your motors? And this is for a spec pipe/can class at a local level. ( not open class )




    I think it has been reviced

    The book is called

    Everything you need to know KARTING

    By Memo Gidley, I just found it on Ebay. Here’s the item # 221572501629



    Try Secrets Of Speed

    By Memo Gidley (ex Champ car/CART driver for Target Chip Ginassi team)

    Amazon or Ebay?



    That would be awesome! Wayne.

    Where is this temporary circuit at, Wayne?

    Would this be like the streets of Lancaster, or Road Island, like a downtown Grand Prix?



    Awesome, Rod!

    Good job, and thank you for doing your part.

    And Yes, I am eyeballing a cadet roller here locally to convert into a slow speed clone package, and I also have a faster cadet kart with a KT100 package for when they get more confident and faster ( Graduation day? )

    All I need is a cheap full size roller for a clone conversion also, and we’ll be all good to go!

    Thanks, all. Fast Freddy.




    That sounds interesting!

    I currently run the YC Heavy at a 390 pipe, and 410 can

    My Son runs with the Super Seniors at 360

    We are getting fed up with the lack of professionalism


    They owe me a 2nd place trophy and a 1st place name tag/plaque for my 1st place trophy, as they messed up the order a few months ago, I’ve asked them several times about it, and to this day NOTHING!

    I’m really getting tired of all the lack of customer service, and low class operation.

    We may just join you, 1.5 hours from Bakersfield is not bad at all



    That may not be such a bad idea
    Would they run at the big track once in a while?
    How many guys do you have by now?



    I never mentioned you were new to karting, or in any way suggested that you were.
    I was just trying to help you find some stuff, as I am a big believer that even if vendors have stopped selling a certain product doesn’t mean they won’t have a few products left over that couldn’t sell.

    I had the same issues with my old blueprinted TM moto, hard to find parts for it. Some guys even from this ( old forum ) were able to steer me to some one who actually had many parts in stock that were just collecting dust.

    A good guy to contact was George Barks, in Orange county Ca.
    I don’t know if he’s still around, but he did carry many stuff for TM and Pavesi, Motori 7.

    I wish you the best of luck
    P.S. Robert Lawson has a good valid point, about having your stuff custom built, if you can’t find any. I may be built to last longger than the factory stuff anyway.



    Where can I buy one of those from?



    The reason why I asked is because I happen to have a brand new L&T 1 quart bottle.

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 111 total)