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  • #75328

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Pictures sent, Brian

    I only have pics of the Ricciardo cahssis on this computer, but will send you some of the Tony karts when I get to the shop. Thanks.

    #75283

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Sorry, Tom

    We only have a complete clutch at the moment, and it does come with an 11 tooth driver.

    #74983

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Randy

    Pics sent, sorry it took so long.

    #74689

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    John

    We’re currently gone for vacation, i found a few pics I found on my laptop, but I’ll send you some more as soon as we get back.

    Thank you for your patience.

    #74413

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Don

    The reason I mentioned to remove the front brake system is because Yamaha KT100 or clutch karts do not run front brakes, at least most clubs don’t run them, and having no front brakes will really teach you how to drive karts, as they are not as forgiving as the shifter kart brakes. ( I understand you drive track cars) And you may be experience, it’s just that the reaction time is a lot faster on karts, and things happen a lot quicker.

    You don’t have to sell the front brake system, just save them for the day you’re ready for shifter karts, then you can put them back on.

    You can probably find a good used KT100, KPV,HPV, or even an older 125cc Rotax, or Leopard engine for about $700 to $900  complete.

    I would highly recommend to start out this way, still get the thrill of going fast, being able to craft your driving style, etc. Put a season or 2 and then jump into shifter karts, by then you will have all the info you need about shifter karts, what to buy and what to stay away from.

    Where are you located at? And What kart tracks do you have around you?

    #74385

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Why not just remove the front rotors and calipers, and turn it into a Yamaha KT100 ?

    Shifter karts are very complicated for a brand new karter, and will be a very difficult to learn how to tune, plus they are a handful to drive if you’re a new driver.

    The KT100 clutch engine will have enough power to get you excited, cheap to maintain, and will teach you how to become a good driver.

    But if what you really want is shifter karts then I will respect that.

    Just keep in mind that a huge amount of new karters that jump into shifter karts do get very frustrated, very quickly when stuff always goes wrong, unless you buy a fairly new and super expensive engine package and have someone helping you tune.

    #74381

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant
    #74306

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    William

    Please help me understand your point, as I don’t understand your approach.

    Don’t know if needed more info? Have any questions how the driver got shreaded off the teeth due to miss adjustment on the chain tension, or just miss representation of my equipment?

    I’m a very honest man and full of integrity, and I appreciate other real man being straight with me.

    Is there any issue I need to be aware of, that you wanna tell me about?

    Please let me know, as I am very flexible. And please correct me if I’m wrong, so that I can make it right, as my reputation is very important to me. Thank you, Freddy.

    #74302

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    HPV engine package sold. Thank you ekn, and Ian.

    #74249

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Post a picture of the seals, and I’ll tell you.

    That is a very old system and was also used by Sodi karts.

    If it’s the style I’m thinking of you could find it at any auto parts store.

    Please send us a picture of what you’ve got. ( wanna see a picture of the seals )

    #74241

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Found another Horstman 3 disc wet clutch $150

    Check back with me, as we’re cleaning out the shop.

    #74233

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Pending sale on all 4 motors.

    I’ll be home all day, Richard. Thank you.

    HPV Sold.

    #74092

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Delete

    #73957

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Mark made a good point there.

    When it all comes down to money, there might be a few people up above in the national level, promoters, sponsors, organizers, CEO’s Tires that delaminate and come apart, etc. That may not like the change, especially when this could be a pay cut in their checkbooks, or this may dig inside their pockets.

    But overall I think Mark is right. There should be a structural latter to be climbed, and another important point, There should only be one big yearly event or 2 at the most. Every sport has a very important event.

    You only have one Indy 500, one Daytona 500, one 24 hrs of LeMans, one 24 Hrs of Daytona, one World wide Olympics. Having said this It would give teams and drivers a whole year to prepare for the ultimate yearly big event.

    Another thing that would be very good for the sport is TV, just like Moto cross, Moto GP, Auto racing, sports fishing, speed boating, etc. I’m not talking about some stream drama TV stuff, I’m talking about the people above in the sport could gather together with engine manufacturers, tires, Lubricants and oils, radiator companies, chassis companies, etc could all get involved to take their products to the next level and invest more, rather than only relying solely on the driver’s money. Now that would be a good start, and get all these CEO’s to actually shake some trees for the good of the sport, and get some TV time, financially invest for the future, not just make a good living out of the sport.

    #73922

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    These guys all build great engines

    P1, Dough Flemmings, Woltjer, Hiper engines, MCR, Orville wright from PKS, Adkins, etc.

    #73464

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    I have 3 rollers

    2—– 2014 Tony Kart EVK $1800 a piece

    1—– 2015 Ricciardo kart $2000

    Is this what you’re looking for? or Older and cheaper?

     

    #73376

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Pete. Are we talking older as a vintage? 2002 to 2006?

    Or only a couple/few years old

    How old do you want it, What engine package do you wanna run with it?

    And What is your budget you wanna spend on it?

    Thanks. Freddy.

    #73219

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Steve. This is an early Tony Kart model ( pre 08 or 09) Maybe even older, as the side pod nerf bars go towards the front rather than on the side, it also has a welded tab at the end of the inside  frame rail at the back.

    Overall I think it may be a 2002 to 2008 Tony Kart Mitox, and somebody powder coated it blue, as there were no Alonso karts or Kosmic Karts back then.

    Anyhow, I hope this helps, and good luck with your plans. FastFreddy.  .)

    #72620

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Sold, Please Delete.

    #72619

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Depending on the track, and how aggressive it is on tires, and if it’s mostly left hander, your right side tires are gonna wear out faster.

    We have the same issue at our local club track, we call it the cheese shreader

    You may wanna try swapping your tires around every heat race, that way they all wear out evenly.

    That MG Yellow tire could be difficult to tune for, we ran the same tire at Cal State championship and we sucked big time. Some of the fastest guys were able to figure it out, and for the rest of us the kart just fell off as they got hotter, not to mention we were running a lower HP engine package, and it did not like it at all ( it became a tank )

    After we finished the main event, the tires were so sticky that when we picked up the kart off the ground it got glued down on the floor.

    P.S. You may wanna run higher PSI and see how it likes it

    Depending on air density and track conditions I used to have the same issue, and was running real low psi, I was told to try 15 or 16 and I thought the guy was crazy, but I tried it anyway, and my kart really liked it, I gess some karts like higher psi? Anyhow, just my 2 cents. Hope this helps.

    #72538

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Dan

    I’m not an expert, as I do have my share of struggles with chassis set up and tuning.

    But that lift looks pretty good to me, and that kind of lift is what gives you better engine speed, as you’re not binding the power when the kart is flat like a pancake.

    I would try changing your line, and apply very minimum steering?

    #71329

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Jim

    It will work great! We have 2 of those, and we also have 2 OTK karts

    The Tony karts are awesome too, there is something different about the Birels though. The back end flexes really nice, especially when you accidentally ride over the kerbs with your rear tires, it will absorbe the impact and not upset the kart nor will toss you across the other side of the track.

    We also run Yamaha, and KPV. I think you’ll like it.

    #71220

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Rod

    I had the same issue, same kind of body also

    I tried all the ones you mentioned, and an OTK #3 (too tight)

    Then I took my chances and ordered an OTK #4 And my butt, hips and lower thorso fit very well, the only issue is that the upper part of my body will need lots of extra padding to hold me fit and in place.

    I don’t think there are many options for my body shape, other than Ribtech Deep seat, but I don’t want one of those.

    Anyhow, that’s what I did and it worked for me. Good luck. Freddy.

    #71138

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Delete

    #70946

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    Welcome to the sport

    No worries, seat strut cracks do break from time to time, being the one closest to the engine most likely the seller did not notice, or it fail while driving

    I’ve had a few cracked on me several times from fatigue. This doesn’t mean you got a bad chassis.

    Very important to have the right angle and correct bend on the strut before installation, otherwise it will fail again, this means if it doesn’t touch the seat once you install it at the cassettes then it’s probably not at the right angle.

    It needs to be flushed with the seat and have very minimum pressure to it, almost like spring loaded rod.

    You may get away by re welding it and be ok for a long time, but may be a good idea to always have some spare ones ( you just never know when one of them is gonna fail during a race weekend)

    I hope we’re talking about the chrome seat struts and not the actual chassis tabs? Good luck to you and have fun. Fast Freddy.

Viewing 25 posts - 1 through 25 (of 436 total)