Forum Replies Created
May 4, 2017 at 11:26 am #81268
I think the answer is how are they reacting to the pressure you have ? At least thats what I think read the most.
Tires confuse me, I would love to have a chart that I could reference based on the stimuli I see, and be able to cross reference that just to keep my sanity.
Sometimes I need less pressure to kick them off, and they work at incredibly low pressures, and I need to move over to a bead locked tire just to keep them mounted. Sometimes I am all over the map and they just don’t cooperate.
Many times I find the basics that I am told to use need to be omitted to make the tire work properly for the day and conditions and setup.
Boy would I like a cheat sheet though !
Even a basic guideline of temperatures and pressures to shoot for would be nice!August 7, 2016 at 5:01 pm #70174
Hey Todd, would you please share the part number and perhaps the source for the one way bearing?
I have a friend that has been trying to do this, and the bearings he uses are woefully under rated.
Thank you!June 27, 2015 at 4:13 pm #50622
Have to do this on my seadoos as well…
Fortunately for those it is actually advantageous, as I just put a plug for quick disconnect between uses, and pull the cells in winter…January 29, 2015 at 6:08 pm #41379
I would like to know this also! Are different brands a better comprimise?
May I also get advice on a thin summer suit please?
I need a good summer suit, one that doesn’t hold too much Heat, but I am still hoping for something durable enough not wear holes through it like a cheap suit might.
What should I look at?
I have a older CRG suit, works great, but it might as well be a Himalayan alpine parka in summer!
Its thick and keeps me way too warm.
Would love something with vents in strategic places if possible.
What should I look at that has these attributes?January 29, 2015 at 12:06 pm #41358
IIRC the Swift are manufactured in the exact same building, on exactly the same machine as the CRG.June 10, 2014 at 2:39 pm #28712
Thanks Kerry, I am very happy you enjoyed yourself and learned a few things at the San Jose seminar!
Everybody else from the Portland area, if you have not signed up yet get together with John ASAP as we do have some room left and since I am from the area we will be looking at local data with some all new materials for this karting focused session!
Hope to see you all there, don’t be surprised if your competition is there getting prepared to be faster in 2014… shouldn’t you be working on a few things too?
Hey I missed this, is this a annual thing?
Are there other ones throughout the year?June 10, 2014 at 1:11 pm #28709
There is a rod kit that includes the bottom end bearing. You probably want to have it done by someone with the right tools and the know how to do it right.
Thanks Curtis, so is that a definitive no on each of the points I have asked?
I understand they have the rod kit, but I am looking for clarification on the questions asked if possible.June 9, 2014 at 5:47 pm #28647
So can just the bottom bearing be replaced then?May 14, 2014 at 11:26 am #27472
I really want to give this a try, I am sure I will be just fine, but would love some experienced advice before I proceed if possible !?!
Anything to avoid doing incorrectly?
Is there any advantage to restraining the center and push down on either end, or better to pin each side and push up in the middle?
I may have access to a kart table locally, but need to talk to the owner and ask for assistance.
Would it be acceptable to handle it myself, or is it advisable to do the extra work and put it on a table assuming I am able to work something out?May 13, 2014 at 7:40 pm #27445
How much is enough to worry about?
How close is close enough when putting it back?
My idea was to pin the front and back and use my hydraulic tools to push up around the center?
Where does the chassis typically bend?
Mine looks like most of it is in the waist, is that typical?
Is there a typical adhered to measurement for a CRG RR that anyone knows from experience?
Checked my fairly new chassis, and that one looks fairly good, but I would love to have a idea where it is supposed to be.May 13, 2014 at 11:30 am #27416
Hey Thank You!
Have not seen any close ups yet.
I cant tell from the bottom mount, but I assume there are multiple inserts running the length of the tube?
How much adjustment does this allow front to back?
Odd to me this wouldn’t be a more standard solution?May 10, 2014 at 4:34 pm #27250
I did look them up, not too much in the way of detail on this though…May 9, 2014 at 8:02 pm #27222
Thats service with a smile!
Thanks Stu, will PM you my contact informationApril 17, 2014 at 9:00 pm #25859
Thanks John, I actually built a little microswitch that activates a LED, just so I can see it in actual driving circumstances.March 19, 2014 at 7:48 pm #24130
My old daily driver:
Talk about a tight fit!
March 17, 2014 at 11:56 pm #24022
Are there any ways to manually adjust the RAVE valves proper opening RPM, or any techniques to find its opening RPM without a logging sensor?