Home Forums Briggs & Stratton 4-Cycle Racing World formula chassis

This topic contains 9 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  John Matthews 6 months, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #13265

    Jamie Orbon
    Participant

    I am just starting in world formula and wanted to see if I could get some recommendations on the best chassis to run in that class…(manufacturer, 30mm or 32 mm, axle stiffness, etc.)   I weigh 150lbs and will be running in the light class which is 365lb minimum, which will require me to bolt 30lbs on the kart.

    Thank you!

    #13284

    Rick Brown
    Participant

    Hey Jamie I’m pretty sure I raced with you at nhms this weekend? If so give me a call 978 204 7458

    #13416

    Jamie Orbon
    Participant

    Hi Rick,

    I tried calling and didn’t get a vm or anything. You can try me at 518-929-1545

    Thank you,

    Jamie

    #13472

    Curtis Ruth
    Participant

    /

    #13477

    John Matthews
    Participant

    I think what Curtis is trying to say (besides the brand I sell is best)  is you can use any chassis as long as it works for you.

    An awful lot depends on your budget and abilities, probably your best bet is to buy a well sorted package that’s been competitive at your track. Alternatively you could go with whatever your local shop sells and supports new.

    All the manufacturers should have something that will work for World Formula by now (it’s been around like 10 years)….

    And Curtis….

    It’s great to see that grid at my former track, just wish I could be there running with you guys not that it’s caught on.

    Cheers,

    #13830

    Larry Andrews
    Participant

    One of the most important things is engine fit.  Once that’s under control, the rest is easy.

    I made a custom engine mount for my WF to move the motor out by the width of the clutch.  Wish that such a mount were commercially available…

    A lot of shops will charge $$$ to move the right seat mount inwards and some people cut off those tube and mount a rear-bar strut.  IMO both of these are weak solutions but other people are making them work…  <shrug>

    And one more thing – OIL OIL OIL!!!  WF failures are EXPENSIVE!

    #14079

    Jamie Orbon
    Participant

    Curtis, if I lived in AZ, I would come buy a kart from ya!

    John & Larry, I am leaning towards the Margay 4.11 because its a chassis made for the World Formula application. I drove one yesterday and loved it, although it seemed to push on entry in every type of corner.

    #14325

    George Vorrilas
    Participant

    We have done a number of WF engine packages on about every brand of sprint chassis out there. While some are easier than others, we have not found one that couldn’t be done. We have started manufacturing our own top engine plate that solves the side to side clearance issues. A word of caution regarding mounts… Some have only two slots holding the top plate to the bottom plate, while others have 3.. We have found that the mounts with only two slots seem to rack and cause chain mis-alignment. So if building one, be sure that you get the correct mount. As always, feel free to reach out too us and we will do our best to assist. In short, the WF and 206 motors are a great bang for the buck. They are dependable, require minimal maintenance, and low cost to operate and some of the most competitive racing we have seen.

    George V.

    ApexKartSports

    Northeast Briggs Motorsports Dealer/Service Center

    978-479-7974

     

     

    #19407

    Mike Wood
    Participant

    My WF motor arrives next week and I’ve got two chassis to choose between. ~2000 Top Kart w/ modified crossmember (since I have  a clone on it right now) with 30mm tubes and 40mm axle or a GP7 w/ front brakes, 50mm axle. I am 175lb and looking to use it for both the NorCal WF series (many are tight-ish sprint tracks) and the upcoming 4hr endurance race.

    I know the Top Kart works OK but it lacks certain adjustments (castor/camber) of the GP but is obviously far more flexible and a bit smaller. Plus with no front brakes I can narrow it up more than the GP7. I’ve got a new 15deg Burris intl mount which would fit either chassis. The Top Kart clone is using a BMI right now but I would use the Burris.

    I’m still a novice so wondering if it would even make a noticeable difference with my driving skills(!)

    I’ve looked for a newer used chassis but there’s not much around without paying >$2500. For that I think I’d step up for a new iKart or something.

    I am also wondering if I could get some Sniper camber/castor adjustments to fit the old kart. I did add 3-stud axles to it so it’s not spindle mounted wheels in there too.

    Cheers,

    Mike.

    #19409

    John Matthews
    Participant

    I would go with the Top Kart since you are already familiar with it.

    Cheers,

    John

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.