September 11, 2017 at 4:44 pm #85775
When I start my engines, everything seems fine. When I pull out on the track, I get a sensation the chassis is banging on the ground, but it’s not. Then after a lap, the banging is gone. I’m pretty sure this is the engine. Is this normal or a symptom of a used engine on it’s way to failure?
September 12, 2017 at 7:29 am #85809
Clark Gaynor Sr.Participant
Don’t over think it. Service your clutch, eg: remove, disassemble, clean/lub, check for damage..reinstall. It could be clutch chatter. Make sure the chain is properly adjusted. If it’s too loose, it might be jumping teeth. 206’s have no HP, so I suspect you’ll find the problem pretty easily.
Let us know what you find,
September 12, 2017 at 8:40 am #85819
Yup! Clark is right, and spot on!
Also see if clutch may need to be re clocked, that might be your issue too.
September 22, 2017 at 12:38 pm #86216
I took the clutch apart and serviced it beforehand, but not for this reason. I found the snap ring was sketchy, and I replaced the needle bearing. I wiped the drum clean. One concerning things was, as I rotate the wheels (sprocket) the chain tension varies about 1/4″ deflection, likely a not very true sprocket (but it’s brand new). I find the tightest spot and adjust it there.
September 22, 2017 at 4:50 pm #86231
September 22, 2017 at 6:37 pm #86232
Very common chain issue, tight and loose, but has nothing to do with your clutch binding, most likely you have a slightly bent axle or a bad carrier.
It is very important you reply to Bryan Williams about the type of clutch you have though. He has a lot of knowledge, plus he has lots of engines, clutches and a bunch of stuff, if you ever need anything Briggs related, he is the man.
Is this your old engine, that you had no idea how many hours it had on it? Plus leaking oil at the cases? He has brand new ones in stock, and will be at Button willow this Sunday. Just sayin’
September 26, 2017 at 3:05 pm #86394
I have a flame fire clutch with a bully conversion. The clutch seems okay. I can check the runout on my axle. Both the Kart and engine are used. I didn’t assume they are in 100% guaranteed shape.
October 23, 2017 at 9:44 pm #87487
William. Make sure the air gap between the sprocket halves are equal. Try to use a thumb to hold down the sprocket half firmly on the sprocket carrier as you tighten the Center bolt. Make sure your sprocket half spans the split in the sprocket carrier and does not line up with it. Make sure your sprocket carrier is true as far as left to right runout. If not don’t throw it out have a friend with a lathe use a piece of an old 50mm axle and take a few thousandths off until true. We race the 401 also runs nice. Good luck.
October 23, 2017 at 9:53 pm #87488
William. Make sure the air gap between the sprocket halves are equal. Try to use a thumb to hold down the sprocket half firmly on the sprocket carrier as you tighten the Center bolt. Make sure your sprocket half spans the split in the sprocket carrier and does not line up with it. Make sure your sprocket carrier is true as far as left to right runout. If not don’t throw it out have a friend with a lathe use a piece of an old 50mm axle and take a few thousandths off until true. If you don’t take the clutch apart to clean it , at least spray brake parts cleaner in the drum area (use the tube so you can direct it better) to remove the dust. When you’re done with the brake parts cleaner don’t forget to use some white lithium grease on the roller bearing. You really should do this before each session, but don’t go crazy with the white lithium grease, it only takes a little bit. Just two small squirts directed between the mount bolt and the drive sprocket. Make sure to use the tube that comes with the grease. We race the 401 also runs nice. Good luck.
October 24, 2017 at 7:26 am #87504
Negative on the break cleaner. To harsh of a chemical that is not good on the shoe compound. Use compressed with a long nozzle to clean debris with out removing. Best to remove and clean with Wd-40.
directly from Shannon Halbert, a guy that David Klaus said has his shit together. So I do what he says:
>We recommend cleaning the clutch after every race weekend. Remove from the kart, spray off any dust or loose material with compressed air. Spray the entire clutch assembly, drum included, with WD40 and let the clutch soak for a few moments. This does two things; allows the wd40 to loosen any grime and dirt on the parts, and it allows the parts to maintain their correct coefficient of friction and wear. DO NOT use Brake Cleaner, carb cleaner, or any other harsh degreasers; >This will strip any oils from the parts and cause a very aggressive engagement and accelerate wear dramatically. We will not warranty in any way, any clutch that is cleaned with harsh chemicals.
- This reply was modified 7 months ago by Bryan Williams.
October 24, 2017 at 7:37 am #87505
Did a cut and paste. Not sure why there is all that extra writing in there but you can read it and get the point
October 24, 2017 at 10:15 am #87510
Yeah, it always does that, been doing it for many years.
Usually I go back and delete all the unneeded lettering that comes with the pasting, all that aerial crap! Lol.
October 24, 2017 at 10:17 am #87511
My brand new chassis is all put together and ready for an LO206 engine package, looks pretty sad with out it.
Please hook me up with an engine buddy. Lol
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