Home Forums Tech Talk Seat post spreading/closing

This topic contains 7 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  Walt Gifford 8 months, 4 weeks ago.

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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  • #61563

    Kirt Burcroff
    Participant

    I’m wondering what methods guys have for adjusting the position of seat posts. With a driver that grows at least one seat size per year I find myself constantly coming to this question.  In the past I’ve tried a Stone seat spreader, an old axle and a mallet. I stopped using the axle leverage method last year after starting to open two welds. I’m still not all that comfortable with my choices.

    Right now I’m faced with a brand new chassis with an opening of 13″ that needs to end up at 14 3/8. After opening it to about 13 1/2″ I can already see a slight discoloration in the powder coat around the welds. Does anyone have a great method for doing this without compromising those welds?

    #61566

    Gary Lawson
    Participant

    I prefer to use a 5# deadblow hammer. I’ve also used an axle but it does leverage the weld a little more from what I’ve seen. When you have to move the strut more than an inch you can expect the paint to crack but I’ve moved some almost 2″ without issue.

    #61567

    Kirt Burcroff
    Participant

    Thanks Gary – Do you usually try to move the right side a little also with the deadblow?

    #61590

    Chad Landers
    Participant

    I’ve used a bottle jack from my car to spread the seat struts more than what I could do with a hammer.

    #61603

    FREDDY SANDOVAL
    Participant

    I use a combination of deadblow hammer, crescent wrench ( attitude adjuster)

    Another real mechanic’s hammer ( Snap-On or MAC ) rubber coated to support and counter weigh the impact from the other hammer ( this is the only way that works for me to avoid cracks at the welds ( you have to support from the opposite side you’re hitting at )

    Good luck. FastFreddy.

    #61609

    Mike Clark
    Participant

    Last one I did I used a piece of unistrut channel. It fit over the strut/brace and allow a lot of leverage and control. Big Crescent wrench for tab adjustment.

    I feel like I am horrible at seat mounting, but the unistrut felt right.

    Pic of strut type it worked well on.

    http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=extreme+kart+frame&view=detailv2&&id=DBE0CF8F8A546FAFC5CB76FDFD021231E6EE36CF&selectedIndex=19&ccid=3E7kBV12&simid=608014074033343207&thid=OIP.Mdc4ee4055d760a4c74954ee82fe1df18o0&ajaxhist=0

    #61610

    Gary Lawson
    Participant

    I do not recommend moving the right strut. They a gusset support for reinforcement and at place in that exact location for engine clearance purposes.

    #62812

    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    I have to move the right strut by cutting it off and re-welding on every kart I’ve owned. You have to pay close attention to engine clearance. For bending the left one, I use a pipe with U bolts and move it around to get a wide bend. You have to careful where you’re bending it not to kink it and check the welds after.

    Gif

    FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
    Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
    Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
    41 years karting experience

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