Home Forums Tech Talk Removing Front Wheel Bearings?

This topic contains 7 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by  Chris Hurst 2 years, 10 months ago.

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  • #37944

    Chris Hurst
    Participant

    Hey everyone,

    Hope you all had a good Thanksgiving and aren’t too tired to help me out. Trying to remove the front inner/ outer wheel bearings on a Tony Kart. There is a cylinder between them that makes it difficult to apply equal pressure to each side of the bearings. Here are a couple pictures showing the bearings I’m trying to remove:

    http://www.accelerationkarting.com/images/front_wheel_hubs.jpg

    The hub I have is the one shown in the top left picture. Trying to removing the parts labelled “E.”

    One bearing is flush with the hub and the other is recessed about 1.0″ into the hub. Any help is appreciated.

    -Chris

    #37957

    Dave Holstein
    Participant

    Pop it in a toaster oven and bake it at 300f for 30 min or so, smack in down on a piece of wood and the bearing should fall out, start with the outside one and then you can get to the inside one and push it out, hot gloves helpes.

    Repeat the procedure in reverse to install new ones.

    #37960

    Chris Hurst
    Participant

    Thanks Dave

    Will the spacer ring come out after the hub is heated or is it a non removable item?

    Just out of curiosity it seems like it would make sense on the installation process to remove the spacer ring (part G in diagram) and press the outer bearing in 1st. After this I would drop the cylinder in, followed by the inner bearing and press it in with something until it sits flush with the cylinder.

    Does it help to freeze the bearings for installation and if I do freeze them will I need to heat the hub again?

    I’m aware that extremely hot things that are cooled down too quickly can sometimes crack (glass for example). Is this true of bearing material or no?

    Might be a simple thing for others, but as this is my first time doing it I want to be aware of what can be damaged so I can avoid having to spend money unnecessarily.

    Thanks!

    #37967

    Dave Holstein
    Participant

    Yes, freezing the bearing will help, you shouldn’t have to worry about it cracking.

    Heat the hub, freeze the bearing, it should just slide right in, you won’t need to press it in, you will want to work fast though.

    Im not completely sure about the spacer sleeve, it should come out I would think.

    #38210

    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    From 72 to 32 is 40 degrees, from 72 to 372 is 300 degrees also the expansion of aluminum is much greater than the contraction of steel. Freezing the bearing will do almost nothing except create condensation, not recommended.

    First thing is to clean the recessed area so the bearing can come out and remove the wheel studs. When you heat the hub, heat it quickly before the bearings absorb too much heat and expand. Pre heat the oven to 400 then put it in for 15 minutes, if it doesn’t go, put it back in for 10 min. It will get smokey from the bearing grease.

    If it’s still difficult, move the spacer to one side then knock the bearing out by hitting the inner race with a drift punch or steel rod. Don’t let the bearing tilt too much. Once the first one is out the spacer will fall out to give you access to the other bearing. Work quickly as heat will be transferring to the bearings.

    Pressing in the new bearings can be done cold. Press the bearing that sits flush first until it seats. Drop in and center the spacer. The second bearing is where the magic happens. The inner and outer races of both bearings have to be held in alignment. The proper pressing tool will center the spacer while pressing the inner and outer races evenly until it seats on the spacer. Now when you tighten your axle nut there is no pre-load on the bearings.

    You can drop them in by heating the hub and maybe get lucky but if you tighten the axle nut and the hub binds up you’ll have to try again and heating the assembly to get the bearings out hurts the grease.

    Hope that helps,
    Gif

    FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
    Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
    Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
    41 years karting experience

    #38366

    Chris Hurst
    Participant

    Thanks a lot guys.  They were really easy to remove after the advice given and I will let you know how the install goes. Lots of good tips and it should be pretty straight forward after some of the pointers mentioned here.

    Walt – on the second bearing (the one where you mention they need to be lined up, I noticed there is a step for the bearing to sit on. For this reason I don’t think I have to align them up as they each have their own step that should line them up. This is something I didn’t notice before and may be particular to the Tony hubs. Regardless I will ensure the sleeve is centered before I drop the 2nd bearing in.

    Thanks again.

    #38428

    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    That would make it easy if the spacer is the same length as the distance between the bearing pockets.

    FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
    Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001,
    Yamaha KT100 Service Center,
    41 years karting experience

    #38431

    Chris Hurst
    Participant

    It is Walt. I’m ordering the parts this week and will update with some pictures when I’m doing the install. I took some during disassembly for anyone interested in doing this on their own OTK hubs. Haven’t driven my kart in over a year so I’m pretty excited to get the parts and install them.

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