April 21, 2016 at 5:53 am #64750
I have a 2006 Arrow AX9 that is loose under acceleration. Current setup is:
20 mm spacers behind each front hub
Side pods tight
Rear bumper tight
Third bearing tight
Medium Axel hubs at max width.
Stiff seat with 1 additional strut on each side
Caster maxed out
2mm toe out on each side
Rotax running senior class at 375#
Front tire weights are the same, right rear is about 6-7 pounds heavier than left rear.
Started out with short rear hubs, changed to longer hubs and some of the looseness went away but not all.
Should I try a hard axel ? Any suggestions appreciated !!April 21, 2016 at 6:22 am #64757
My two cents… start by reducing the overall rear width and then proceed to take caster out. Its been a number of years since I ran TaG but I never tightened the third bearing and/or had the rear bumper tight (this doesn’t mean it’s a bad idea, but for your reference it is not something I ever used on the karts that I owned).April 21, 2016 at 7:04 am #64760
Arrow Kart has one of the best set up manuals of any kart I have come across.April 21, 2016 at 8:16 am #64765
Arrow Kart has one of the best set up manuals of any kart I have come across. http://www.wrkc.on.ca/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Arrow_Setup_Guide.pdf
I have the manual and have tried the suggested fixes, but still have this issue.April 21, 2016 at 8:17 am #64766
My two cents… start by reducing the overall rear width and then proceed to take caster out. Its been a number of years since I ran TaG but I never tightened the third bearing and/or had the rear bumper tight (this doesn’t mean it’s a bad idea, but for your reference it is not something I ever used on the karts that I owned).
I will look into these suggestions.
Thanks for the replies so far.April 21, 2016 at 10:06 am #64778
Loosen up side pods, rear bumper, if you have rear torsion bar remove it, remove one seat strut, and go higher on tire pressure. Leave the caster at max.
Where is your seat at from axle to lip?
Where is your front and rear track at?April 21, 2016 at 1:25 pm #64780
Loosen up side pods, rear bumper, if you have rear torsion bar remove it, remove one seat strut, and go higher on tire pressure. Leave the caster at max. Where is your seat at from axle to lip? Where is your front and rear track at?
Tightening the side pods made it better to get it to where it is now. No rear torsion bar, seat is at Arrow recommended setting. I don’t remember the exact measurement. Rear is at 55″ outside to outside of rears tires. Front track is at 44″ outside to outside.
Which side should I remove a strut from ? Left or right ?
MikeApril 21, 2016 at 4:28 pm #64782
I respectfully disagree with most of what Freddy recommended. Tightening the pods and bumper add grip and so do struts. A stiffer axle could help as well. 55 is pretty wide in the rear for that kart. I’d narrow 10mm per side. Reducing caster could certainly help the balance as well.
Mojo tires?April 21, 2016 at 4:58 pm #64786
Gary, they are Hoosier MMX-A tires.April 25, 2016 at 9:52 am #64952
I agree with Gary. Narrowing the rear will help the outside tire dig harder. Also your caster might be putting too much weight jacking through the outside tire and overloading it, causing it to break free.
Driver/Coach/Wrench : Innovative Performance/Exprit
Owner : Oktane Visual - www.oktanevisual.com
www.instagram.com/oktanevisualApril 26, 2016 at 1:13 pm #65027
Thanks for all of the answers.April 28, 2016 at 6:03 pm #65121
I used to own that very chassis. I bought a new AX-9 at a nice discount because the X-1 had been in the market for a couple of years. It was better than my Sodikart SR-5 (all-32 chassis but without the narrow waist, had an archaic frame design, and was very stiff), but I struggled to match the pace of the drivers who had a 30mm chassis for the newly-spec D2 tire. I wish I had known that before I bought it.
Your AX-9 is all-32mm kart, and as such is stiff and produces a lot of grip. It was very good for a hard tire like the D1.
The X-1 that replaced the AX-9 is an all 30mm kart, developed because Mojo introduced the D2 tire, which was grippier.
My point in telling you this is to suggest that tightening a kart that already produces a great deal of grip is going to make the kart less flexible–perhaps unflexible–hence the sliding. I’m assuming, of course, that the kart isn’t worn out from years of use.
To me, everything you’ve done to the kart is making a stiff kart even more stiff.
Having said all that, T.J. is a lot smarter than me.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
EKN Editorial Search
EKN Editorial Directory
- EKN CANADA
- Briggs Racing
- Can-Am Karting Challenge
- Challenge Of The Americas
- Florida Winter Tour
- International Kart Federation
- Los Angeles Karting Championship
- Rock Island Grand Prix
- Rok Cup USA
- Route 66 Sprint Series
- Superkarts! USA
- Texas ProKart Challenge
- United States Pro Kart Series
- United States Rotax Max Challenge
- World Karting Association