Home Forums General Karting Discussion Lock to Lock Jacking effect check —-Question?

This topic contains 4 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  Walt Gifford 1 year ago.

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    Pat Collins

    I wanted to post this out to the main body for comment. I am trying to settle a discussion among several racers. When checking the steering wheel Lock to Lock, should you see the inside rear wheels lift equally both left & right side (Jacking Effect ). And does it matter if your talking a 2 cycle engine vs say a LO206. Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you for your time and effort.

    Pat Collins



    TJ Koyen

    Yes, the jacking effect should be equal on both sides if the driver is sitting in the kart. This is our quick and dirty way of checking if a frame is bent usually.

    With the driver out of the seat, it might be slightly different side-to-side since you aren’t completely weighted.

    Team Driver - Innovative Performance/Tony Kart // Owner - Oktane Visual Custom Helmet Paint and Graphic Design


    Pat Collins

    Thank you TJ

    That is the thought I had, if everything is setup properly you should be able to get a usable feel for how the kart is Jacking. I understand it is not the perfect way but it sure helps with quick checks at the track on the fly!!!!! 🙂

    Thanks again


    Pat Collins



    James McMahon

    Broadly speaking it should be pretty equal, but keep in mind it needs to be a very level surface, tire pressures need to be in ballpark and your toe in/out needs to be symmetrical on each side too.

    If you have all of those factors under control, then you can be more confident in your observation of the amount the front wheels get jacked.


    Walt Gifford

    You didn’t say how you are gauging the lift, just by the feel of steering wheel resistance?

    I’ve done what you’re saying under very controlled conditions in the shop. It can be off a good bit and still feel right. Also, I didn’t go lock to lock, I set up a pointer and a protractor. Manufactures don’t try to make the lock points equal, it just ends up real close because of modern manufacturing.

    If you just want a down and dirty way to check it at the track after a bump then go for it. If you’re setting it up in the shop to be the ultimate chassis I’d look at it different.


    FAA certified jet engine and aircraft technician,
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