July 5, 2014 at 2:29 pm #29820
I seem to be having a battery vibration issue. I am on my 3rd battery and now need to buy a 4th. I’ve had the original battery with WKA numbers on it, Fast-Tech Racing, and batteries from Tractor Supply. All of them are the same form factor with the Amps and Volts. I have it mounted on the left hand side of the chassis like the manual says in the provided push box/battery case. I’m not sure if the tracks are just rough or that Leopard has such bad vibration, but I’m over spending the money on a battery that will crack and leak out of the top after 2-3 race weekends. I was at the local kart shop and a guy mentioned a really small compact battery from an online hobby shop (meant for a R/C plane) that he said would start a Chevy big block. It is $80 for this battery, so before I buy it I was wondering what other people have done or tried. Has anyone had this problem or tried relocating the battery somewhere else to resolve this?
Tony Kart / LeopardJuly 5, 2014 at 7:31 pm #29827
Unless your local kart shop puts these batteries on their own karts, I’d be suspicious. Neither the battery to start an R/C plane, or the one to power the onboard electronics and servos, IMO won’t last on a kart. I’ve read the some people have good luck with cheapie batteries, but I haven’t. Bought three from a national battery retail shop and none of them lasted. Most of those types of batteries are for emergency lights. Think they were all 12v, 7.2 Ah. Purchased a 12v, 9Ah from Russell and never had another battery problem. The only caveat is the price. Russell is asking 88 bucks for the battery, but I think it’s worth it.
LAD Specialties / tony kart / rotax / kt100July 5, 2014 at 8:54 pm #29830
Yep, the last one I picked up was from Tractor Supply (deer/woods camera battery)and it was $27 compared to the $60 plus shipping that I purchased online. And you are right the amps, they are 7.5 vs 9.0, 12v. I was at the kart shop picking up my engine and I was just having a few words with another customer. He was the one that mentioned that battery, not the owner of the shop. He was some type of engineer and started getting pretty deep with the cranking amps, output discharge, vibration, location, etc. I looked it up really quick and I’m 99% sure this is it.
I figured if it was that small and light weight I could just mount it under the front faring and behind the steering wheel to reduce the vibration.
thanks again for the quick response.
Tony Kart / LeopardJuly 6, 2014 at 8:40 am #29842
I bought a pair of these last year: http://www.batterysharks.com/Power-Patrol-SLA1075-p/sla1075_b12-7.htm
One of them died over the winter when I left it sit in my unheated garage all winter, but the other has been great. In fact I’m planning to order a couple more.July 8, 2014 at 8:21 am #29946
What do you mean when you guys say the batteries don’t last? The lower amps that come with the cheaper batteries won’t start the kart after a while or are you getting cracks/leaks on the top side also? Everyone that I talk to uses an external starter, so it’s hard to say if this vibration problem is just my kart or if this happen with most others also. I’m trying to come up with a battery relocation maybe to the front like the MY09’s use.
Tony Kart / LeopardJuly 15, 2014 at 9:21 pm #30345
Never had cracks or leaks in any battery. The cheaper ones just couldn’t turn the motor over after a few sessions. I’m not an electrical engineer or battery expert, but I’ll guess that the cheap ones were not designed to be laid on their sides and submitted to the vibrations associated with a kart. Either the plates within the battery are breaking or the isolators between the plates are disintegrating. So you are correct. It is a vibration problem, but only for a battery that wasn’t designed for those loads. The better batteries probably have stronger plates and isolators. That’s the reason for the higher cost.
LAD Specialties / tony kart / rotax / kt100
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