July 22, 2013 at 6:51 pm #4511
I am pretty set on getting a CRG. A friend of mine who is looking to get into shifter karts is curious as to which chassis he should go with.
I had a Trackmagic years ago but want to go the CRG route this time. Are there any recent chassis shoot-outs of the sort where I could direct my friend to some research. I am in North County SD and my buddy is in South County SD and we will visit the local to SoCal tracks.
Any information would be greatly appreciated.July 22, 2013 at 7:21 pm #4515
Check out the DR karts.
MikeJuly 22, 2013 at 7:41 pm #4516
I’d never heard of DR Kart and just learned that their chassis are made by CRG. Do you drive one? Thoughts, comments? Thanks for the heads up on this company.
~AJuly 22, 2013 at 9:35 pm #4531
If you are looking for new and leaning towards a CRG make sure you get a 2013 chassis over a 2012.July 22, 2013 at 9:36 pm #4532
Hey Josh, Thanks and yes I am looking to get a new chassis, and planned on it being a 2013. I just figured newer=better. What is your rationale for suggesting 2013 over 2012? Thanks again for the info.
~AndyJuly 23, 2013 at 8:52 am #4559
Any of the CRG welded, CRG component karts are fantastic.
I use a CKR brand chassis, model SG3, and I absolutely love it. It suits me and my driving style perfectly and uses all CRG parts and brakes (which I think are the best in the business).
Its all subjective though. If you’re interested in a CKR, Action Kart Racing is the importer: http://actionkartracing.com/
GLJuly 23, 2013 at 10:09 am #4563
Without going buck wild with research, what karts out there are rebadged CRG karts? so I guess the differences are in the equipment they are shod with? … and the paint/powder coating of the frame?
Now my gf wants to try a Rotax Max. I booked some karting classes for my GF at Bondurant as I’d rather have pros give her the baseline education. Her helmet already arrived from Patrice at Smart Race Paint.
~AndyJuly 23, 2013 at 10:25 am #4566
The most common advice is to buy whatever is supported in your area, but based on where you live my guess is that you have plenty of options. From there you can go any way you want. I have owned 2 CRG’s, both fast. If you go with a CRG I highly recommend the ceramic brakes. My current CRG has steel, and they work great but the ceramic are lighter and they felt better to me. Anything that is built by CRG or uses their brakes would be similar, meaning CRG, Zanardi, Energy, DR, GP, etc. As a side note, DR kart parts fit CRG’s and can be cheaper as I have recently discovered.
I have no experience with Tony Kart’s other than thinking they looked fast when they passed me. Tony’s are popular, but from I have seen they have some of the most expensive replacement parts.
Intrepid’s new karts look nice, and their new shifter is priced at $4400 brand new, significantly lower than others. I am looking at a new or newer kart in a few months, and the new Intrepid is the one I am currently set on.
Arrow has introduced a new shifter model, but they do not seem to have a huge following in the shifter market for whatever reason, despite their success in TaG and other classes.
Whatever you pick, one thing that I have learned is that a clean straight chassis that is set up and maintained properly will be as fast as anything else on the track with the right driver, regardless of what color the frame is painted.July 23, 2013 at 11:27 am #4572
Hey Jason, thanks for the wise words. I am in San Diego and I know that there was a kart shop up in Oceanside but they went under. I swung by the local SDKA races at Qualcomm and met some really cool people who run shifters so that is another bonus. My friend and I will add two more to the shifter mix in SD.
I did see a new/newer Intrepid and it does look pretty damn slick. I raced motorcycles and knew about keeping them showroom clean as then you will more easily notice a change.
I will let my friend know about the price of the Intrepid kart. That is a really good price for a new chassis.
Thanks for the heads up on the Ceramic brakes. How often do ceramic rotors go through pads in comparison to Steels? I am sure the ceramic accompanying pads cost more than the steel pads.
Lastly, thanks for the info on DR parts being a direct and cheaper option to CRG parts on CRG Karts.
~AJuly 23, 2013 at 12:45 pm #4583
You may have seen me at the SDKA race – I have GP #8 in the shifter class.
We don’t have a shop in SD right now, but there are many brands supported in the region – Acceleration Karting (LV) is a big CRG dealer, the Musgraves are doing really well with Tony Karts, Full Throttle in OC is supporting Arrows, etc. Get a copy of Go Racing and you will see the ads. Right now, you pretty much can’t go wrong with a new CRG or Tony, and I wouldn’t hesitate at looking at Intrepid or Arrow. I’d suggest going to an LAKC race – you will see samples of all the major chassis, and there should be reps from the various shops.
WRT ceramic brakes, I have them and I’m very, very impressed with them. Very little service so far (and I’m running both SDKA and the NCK road racing series), great stopping power, and light. The major downside is price if you crack a rotor (I run skid rails on the rear underframe, to prevent this).
GP’s come out of the CRG factory (really, the only unique part of a GP is the frame), but right now there is little support in the western US; their distribution network seems to have fallen apart a bit. In terms of resale value, CRG’s and Tony’s would probably be the best bets.July 23, 2013 at 1:01 pm #4586
Yes I did notice you and your kart. That is one very meticulously laid out kart. I’d like to pick your brain some more. I plan on going for a lil ride up to see Curtis @ Acceleration Karting.
Thanks for the heads up re: LAKC races to get more info.
Skid rails like these? I’d really like a chance to pick your brain about things I should get for my kart as I was beyond impressed with yours as well as your Trailer. Well thought out.
<p style=”margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; font-family: Helvetica;”></p>July 23, 2013 at 4:52 pm #4636
go where the support is . If I were going new I would go Arrow or Praga Kart Both quality stuffJuly 25, 2013 at 7:21 am #4906
CRG manufactures under a few diffrent brand names. Zanardi, DR and there’s a new one I forget the name but it’s a green chassis. The DR’s I’ve seen are identical to the CRG bolt for Bolt and a little cheaper. I have CRG and DR the only diffrence is color and graphics. TS racing in Bushnell FL Imports and stocks DR along with all the parts.
BrianJuly 25, 2013 at 10:48 am #4917
Yeah, comparison shop DR parts and CRG parts. Much better….
I use DR spindles on my CRG now. $142 compared to $193July 25, 2013 at 12:20 pm #4929
Well let me add an opinion again to this discussion . All the top 7-8 Mfg’s make a good Product .What Jason and others have stated for 90% of us Club Level Karters it is best to go where SUPPORT is most available .
Now having talked to the 4 BIG importer/Dealers of the top brands what I find NOT being discussed is that the various MFG’s do make several Models for both Tag/Rotax and Shifters . Only talking Adult karts here. Pick a Brand of your choosing and there may be 2 or 3 models that can be used as say a TAG kart . Which one to choose is the BIG question ? I won’t mention the name but 2 of the 4 referenced seem to want to determine the type of tracks most of us will be competing on .
As example Grippyer tracks such as those found in the south such as Fla. , La., Tex., Ariz., so Cal. may favor one specific model within the MFG product line as opposed to some tracks with less grip .30/32 ,All 32 etc;
Now having said that for the other karters at the “PRO” or “Semi Pro” level S-1 ,S-2 you have to admire and praise their Talent and Skill set Level . I have seen it twice on a practice day non race week-end where one of the Pro karters was helping his buddy with a shifter kart which was a different brand than his they both took turns did about 5 laps and came back in . The Pro’s time was almost 1 second faster . They worked on the kart about 30 minutes then both went out and did another 5 lap stint each . The PRO ended up taking another 1 second + off his best time . So the point I’m making is the SKILL SET of the driver determines potential of the kart being raced reguardless of MFG.
Another thing that has alway7s impressed me with the PRO Karters is that a National Level Events wether it be Parking lot , Street Race , or Kart Track is HOW QUICKLY these guys can DIAL their karts in . Nothing beats SEAT TIME SEAT TIME SEAT TIME .
Last point Slightly off topic ,but someone had mentioned Ceramic Brakes . A person with much better knowledge than me was telling me recently that Most of the European MFG Supported / Sponsored teams are now running Steel Fronts and Ceramic Rears for braking . I believe him but don’t know the reason WHYJuly 25, 2013 at 7:39 pm #4980
^ Bob you’re on it; most important thing you can spend your money on is seat time.
It’s a shame you don’t have a permanent shop in SD, but luckily everyone who runs at SDKA are great guys. Look out for Jeff Shadoan on his new Tony down there, he’s a great guy and I think he’s selling his Intrepid for a good price if you’re interested, and also Bob and pretty much everyone else will do their best to help you out.
As for what new chassis to buy, we’ve had lots of success with our Tony’s and I believe Jeff has been running pretty well at SDKA with his. I personally know CRG’s are very impressive, and if you get one, make sure you get the new Road Rebel – Braga.
It really depends on you and what you want, but to limit it to the best 2 choices would be:
2013 Tony Kart Racer – EVK
2013 CRG Road Rebel – Braga
The Tony has a wider tuning window and is always fast right out of the box, but can have trouble in certain situations. The CRG has a smaller tuning window and may require more changes throughout a race day, but when they’re on they’re brutally fast and almost impossible to beat. The Tony’s reward a more relaxed and smooth driving style, the CRG’s reward a more aggressive, push-the-limits driving style.
Again, it just depends on what you’re looking for. And if you’re looking for assistance, answers, information, parts, etc, just let me know and I’ll do what I can. We’re MRC, we do everything that has to do with shifter karts and our shop’s in Corona, CA.July 26, 2013 at 12:28 am #4998
Andrew, I sent you a pm, not sure if I did it rite or how to check for a reply.
If you didn’t get it, let me know.
-jim-July 26, 2013 at 12:54 am #5000
Whatever you do Andrew, I implore you to take Jimmy’s advice with a grain of salt.July 26, 2013 at 11:10 am #5015
Why is that?July 26, 2013 at 11:42 am #5017
Clearly you don’t have any idea what you are talking about.July 26, 2013 at 11:45 am #5018
I think of all the people here, I am the one that knows the least 🙂
Thanks to all that have taken the time to give advise. Much appreciated.
~AndyJuly 26, 2013 at 12:34 pm #5021
If it isn’t fairly obvious by now…I am completely kidding about Jimmy. I would take his advice over anyone else in this thread. The fact that he runs with the big boys might indicate he knows a thing or two.July 26, 2013 at 12:42 pm #5022
Tyson, sometimes when I’m getting my butt kicked, I feel like I have no idea what I’m doing. 🙂July 30, 2013 at 6:23 pm #5382
I have an arrow 2008 shifter 32/32 and an arrow 2013 kt100 as far as tuneability, the 2013 has vast improvements for adjusting the chassis as well as much easier ways to change brake pads(quick change setup), nose bumper clamp on and off, camber and castor pins. the best brakes in the business (both on 08 and 13 arrow models)
I didnt see anyone bring up arrows so heres my thumbs up for arrow.
the 2008 looks brand new still so as far as powdercoat goes its top notch and the anodizing of the aluminum still looks new too.August 17, 2013 at 5:12 pm #7342
I bought a used CRG for an amazing deal with a DDR CR125 Stock Honda and electric lift. It is on now!!!
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